Upgrading the Original Tyco Super 630 with NWSL Wheels
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- čas přidán 15. 03. 2024
- As I showed in my other video, the original Tyco Super 630 is a pretty nice model, but the chassis was largely let down by poor quality wheels. I wanted mine to be a better runner, so I decided to give it an upgrade with some wheels from NWSL!
Sorry, this conversion doesn't work for the Power-Torque drives. - Jak na to + styl
As a retired loco mechanic the wobble is in keeping with the prototype ALCo Tri-mount trucks. Very nice job all the same. It brings to mind a project never completed: replacing the wheels on a pair of AHM U25Cs.
Now it just needs something to generate clouds of black smoke.
Nice work! I really enjoy all your work in repairing these old locomotives. You were lucky to get your product from NWSL. My last 2 orders there arrived with improperly constructed items, which I had to ship back on my cost. And the last time I did that, I never got a replacement. NWSL: some neat products, but buyer beware.
Thanks! Sorry to hear you had that experience! It’s been tough for them the past few years (3 of their team passed away in the span of a couple years), and hopefully they can get back to the level of consistent quality and service they used to have.
Its a shame tyco didn't make them like this from the factory. I wonder if there would be a way to spline the axles to prevent slippage over time instead of relying on pressure for grip. P.S. what's the name of the NWSL puller if you don't mind me asking? Thanks for sharing!
I do that sometimes by putting the axle onto a piece of flat metal, and then I push a file down on the area I want to have some extra grip and push it back and forth to roll the axle. It's basically a crude knurling process, but it works pretty well!
The wheel puller is the NWSL Puller II: nwsl.com/products/the-puller-ii
I've been using that and the original Puller for years, and they've been some of my best tool investments for working on these kinds of projects!
Hello I really enjoy your videos. I have one of those TYCO SUPER c630 diesels. However, I prefer to keep them in original form, as they were made, sort of like a time capsule back to the 1970's. The Rivarossi U-25C is the better version of this under the frame drive system. ALSO, I use cardboard as a shield on things when I use a vice to prevent scratching things. Thanks for another great video....
I did keep the old wheels in case I ever want to put it back like it was. :)
Well, that is a good idea; I just posted a short video comparing the Tyco to the Rivarossi U-25C. But the gears will no longer fit on the smaller tyco axle.
@@bobbyshobbiesTrainHunter That is true, they won't have a good press-fit anymore, but there are some ways to get around that if ever needed.
Nice job on your video, by the way! You've got quite the railroad!
Thankyou for taking a look!
You are due for an arbor press, with all the gear pulling and pressing you do I think it would help you more than most people
Another one for the list of stuff I'll get one of these days!
NIce upgrade. Those wheels are probably worth more than that thing cost new. I have never seen one of those locomotives out in the wild.
I looked up the original MSRP and put it through an inflation calculator a while back, and it was actually over $80 in today's dollar value! The wheels were $16 per pack, so they're at least quite a bit below the model's value in this case.
One of the best body shells that Mantua/Tyco produced
Super job, nicely done.
I love that brand i grew up with them
That's really disappointing about the quality of the NWSL bushings considering that the entire point of their business is to provide higher quality parts for aftermarket repairs/upgrades. Great video regardless!
Love it! Great job :-)
Some of the can motors will provide free smoke- (See 'whitenightcat' below). How about pickups on all wheels and remotoring. Well done.
Definitely a step in the right direction. I always wondered if one could upgrade a Tyco wheel set as the plastic parts of these sets are prone to cracking with age. Thank you for sharing this. Is the wheel puller a design of your own or can it be purchased from a manufacturer?
You're welcome! The tool is the Puller II from NWSL: nwsl.com/products/the-puller-ii
Thank you for the link. Besh wishes.@@DarthSantaFe
I dont care ... for some crazy sentimental reason i love Tyco...I just do
What is the pulling tool you used?
what is the product # for those replacement wheels?
I used 97129-4 unassembled wheelsets.
Will it also work with Tyco trains with Mantua's MU-2 drives (both metal and plastic frames)?
Yes, but you have to account for the 1/8" axle like I did here: cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/195040/2390113.aspx
Where can I get one of those wheel tools from? It looks very handy for some of the rebuilds I do
NWSL makes the puller, and it can be ordered directly from them. They have a few different sizes of them to work with different scales.
I’m kind of surprised by the lack of concentricity of those bushings. At least the wheels were code 110 instead of proto87, as that significant amount of wobble would have been even more problematic. Couldn’t you have turned and drilled out the bushings on your small lathe? Surely that would have been quickest and easiest, but at least the wheels were good and the axles ok (I’d imagine knurling would help fit plastic gears or a flat spot for brass ones).
I thought of that, but my small lathe is actually a bit imprecise and doesn't have a perfectly centered chuck. Designing the new parts only took about 5 minutes on my computer, and the print was another 40 minutes including the UV curing. The result was a smooth and perfect fit, so this time around the printing worked out great!
@@DarthSantaFe a small watchmakers lathe with collets may help in setting the wheels. They can be found for relatively cheap on ebay and mine has helped allow me to set in finescale wheels which need to have zero wobble (0.02 mm or something), but what works, works!
why not change out the noisey motor?
I thought of doing that and have a good motor to use, but decided to keep this video only about the wheels.
I know nothing about model trains . But why is that thing so load ?
I have seen model on display and they were quiet .
The old motor is pretty loud on its own, and the way the model is built causes it to resonate through the shell. I may do some work eventually to either isolate or replace the motor to quiet it down.
@@DarthSantaFeCool thanks .
Sorry, I don’t see the improvement, so I’ll take your word for it. Electrical pick-up I’ll agree with you. But, I gotta say, that’s really a “growler.” 😊 Also, I thought NWSL was out of business, so where did you buy the wheel set and what exactly were they titled, please?
It doesn't show up as well on camera, but it actually did reduce from a constant shaking to only a light wobble from the instability of the frame on top of the trucks. The gearing itself is pretty quiet, and I might eventually replace the noisy motor to make it a quieter runner.
NWSL is actually still in business, and I ordered these wheels directly from them a few weeks ago. They were only closed for a short time a few years ago during a change of ownership. nwsl.com/
@DarthSantaFe , LOL.
After much loudness in my train room, I determined it's not the motor itself that's making all the racket, but rather the drive shafts that go out each end of the motor - thru the front and rear of the fuel tank area.
The mehano type drive train is packed inside its plastic chassis pretty tight, and when one little thing is off slightly, it can cause an amplified noise effect especially as the driveshaft makes contact with any parts directly connected to the hollow shell as it navigates curves.
To remedy this, check driveshaft clearances with the shell and trim back problem areas inside the body/chassis area with a Dremel tool AFTER noting any improper fitment condition that may be causing the binding/groweling.
BTW, NWSL is a great company to get those replacement wheels from. Wish they had a cross reference for determining which of their wheel sets work for different tyco units, life-like etc.
Run it without the body to see if it still makes that noise.
It does. The noise in this one is the motor. These square Rivarossi motors with the sleeve bearings have been consistently loud runners for me so far, and I'm not sure why.
@@DarthSantaFe I have a Rivarossi C-Liner from the '57 Lionel HO line with the ball bearings and it's also pretty noisy. Quieter than your C-630 but has a growl that's impossible to ignore. Despite the fact that it has all metal gearing, the noise seems to almost entirely come from the motor, and I think might come from a slight wobble in the armature. Not exactly sure. I had to take mine apart and replace some missing ball bearings, and the races that the bearings travel in didn't seem to be the most smooth... that could also produce some vibration that makes the motor noisy.
@@leverettrailfan5414 The ball bearing motors were pretty noisy. They got smoother in the 60's once the design was really refined, but I've found them all to be good runners despite the noise they make. I have one of the 1952 bakelite C-Liners with the sheet metal motor, and even though it's not at all quiet, it's a very smooth and strong runner!
You need a smaller hammer
Maybe someday. For now, I just tap lightly with the regular hammer.
Nicejob. Still very noisy machine. I don't know if I would spend the money on a Tyco.
Great loco but the noise the motor makes is unacceptably. It would do my head in listening to that racket during a running session. It was loud enough to cover your talking. Maybe your next project should be noise reduction.