Inside the smallest theatre light - the PAR16
Vložit
- čas přidán 25. 06. 2024
- ParCan - an abbreviation for Parabolic Aluminised Reflector bulb and the metal can it's housed in.
The bulbs used with these are MR16 or GU10. MR16 means Metallised Reflector and the 16 is its diameter in eighths of an inch. Likewise the classic PAR56 and PAR64 are 56 eighths (7 inches) and 64 eighths (8 inches) in diameter.
Even the first LEDs had the eighth of an inch sizing system. 3mm LEDs were called T1 and 5mm LEDs were called T1 3/4 (or T1.75). The same applies to fluorescent tubes - a T8 tube is 1" diameter, and a T4 tube is half an inch in diameter.
I think GU10 is named after its safety bayonet style base.
These little Par Cans, also known as birdies are commonly used in theatres and themed environments as a convenient way of getting a wash of light with a fairly concealed source.
The 12V versions often have inline electronic transformers, or a traditional chunky transformer mounted nearby.
These are a very common and cheap light to buy. This one came from CPC in the UK:-
cpc.farnell.com/pulse/par16-m...
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:- www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of CZcams's algorithm quirks, allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
#ElectronicsCreators - Věda a technologie
20+ years in the industry, and the answer I always was given was that it is called a "birdie" because it is 'less than PAR'
I’ve always known them as birdies, but this reasoning is new to me and cracks me up
A birdie is one under par, an eagle is one over
Eagle is 2 under par
@@greengreens9936 ah you're right, it's been a long week
@@greengreens9936 Imagine Clive saying this: "Aye, an eagle's a big birdie!"
At college in the 90’s I needed some small lights for my stop motion film. The birdies were a bit expensive and had just come out. One of my friends knew a couple of sparks and they sorted me out an oil filled 10 channel DC transformer ( still going ) ,bulbs, ceramic bulb sockets and a load of cable. All recycled or at cost they were doing shop display lighting at the time. I made the light bodies out of small tin cans, tomato puree, asparagus and the best long strong tin pilchards. I made snoots , barn doors and gel holders. When I watch my film to this day I can still smell the fish.
What is the film? Where is it? Upload it to CZcams. I'm interested 😂
PAR 20 is a really fascinating size as it fits an older Intel i3 boxed CPU cooler almost perfectly. And those can handle a 50W LED with focusing lens quite well, which is a notable upgrade in terms of brightness.
Wired one of these up to the mains once. Instant pyro
You're not the first to do that.
When I was a kid I happened across a box of infrared flashbulbs my dad had bought for photography. I didn't know what they were but they were Edison base so I tried them out one at a time in a 120V lamp socket. I was puzzled why none of them seemed to light up.
@@tncorgi92similar story here… except with edison-base fuses
@@freshgino Florescent lamp starter...... I did find a little bit of the base, and the dog did come back 10 minutes later. It was a metal cased starter as well, never found any of that, or the actual glass starter, or the interference suppression capacitor either.
@@freshgino Yes, we had those in our house when I was a kid. Still remember my dad putting pennies in the receptacles when fuses blew. It's a wonder our house never burned down,
You're working on a stage light, so you're wearing a stage ninja glove. ;)
Seriously though, hope your hand is better soon!
The MR-16 is still, to this day, my favorite lamp, ever since I found one inside a little light-up revolving disc fiber optic plant I got from Spencer's Gifts in the late 90s or early 2000s. Such versatile little buggers!
Omg what was that thing called?? You just activated a memory I didn't realize I had. Mine broke after my cat knocked it off a shelf, I'd love to get one again if you can supply the name!
to install and remove those cord grips, you need a heyco tool. it's specifically designed for them and it makes installation and removal very quick and easy. it is sort of like pliers but has a rack and pinion setup and jaws designed to hold the cord grip and press the side part in and let you pull at the same time.
It makes sense for someone to design a special tool for these things. Learning something new every day.
PAR - PArabolic Reflector. The number afterwards is the size of the lamp in 1/8ths of an inch.
Oh, lovely imperial measurements. Technically correct would be to say: 16/8 inch. And other common dimensions like 46/8, 56/8 and naturally 64/8.
I thought it was Parabolic Aluminised Reflector.
@@FrontSideBusParabolic Axial Reflector
@@Frankhe78'vulgar fractions' are all wrong according to my teachers!
@@pcka12 I am also not a great fan.
Indeed, it is called a birdie because of the golf reference. Ahh, the number of these I had to rig inside trilite minitruss for corporate events...Thank god I'll never have to do another.
Love the theatrical ("the business") videos! Brings back memories...
Recently I saw some even smaller PAR bulbs at the norwegian version of poundland. It was a solar light shaped as an owl, and the owls eyes were tiny par reflectors about 15 mm or so in diameter, with an led in the middle in each eye. I immediately thought of you and would have bought and sent you one but I’m unfortunately broke right now.
They have the same lights here.
Love your stage lighting & lighting fx videos. Like to see more of them.
Can also be used as appearence signals on stage.
But they are terrifyingly cute.
My favourite fixtures were "aeros" or ACLs The way they cut through haze was something else. Only thing that ever came close was a bar full of Sharpies.
Such a cute little light. Amazing how much light a MR16 / GU10 can give in the right circumstances. Even the wide beam LED's didn't give a bad light. Guessing the ideal lamp for these would be the ones that are 35 degree beam angle. A lot of better quality LED replacements will specify the beam angle they have
We put them on round weighted stands and use them along the front of the stage for face light. They're more directional than a blinder, which is useful. When they are on their stands they look a lot like a "birdie". The golfing source for the name also works 😊
We've got them in the US too, GU10 is very rare here, so they're typically MR16, either 12V or 120V. I'm not sure about these days, it's been decades since I've done theatrical lighting, but I vaguely remember seeing them with reflectors and small incandescent bulbs before the MR16 became a thing. (It was so long ago that I used actual asbestos-wired Klieg lights in a production, not just looked at them in a display case.)
But these (and mini-fresnels) were typically something we'd put inside scenery to hit something we just couldn't from the pipes.
Birdies ae great - especially we can now get good "clean" colours without the need for fiddling with gels.
But do they make an LED in 'Surprise Pink'? Surprise, it's purple!
Interesting subject matter. Years ago we supplied some TV studios with small gearboxes that the small lamps were controlled by. Good post, thanks 👍
Nice the insulated the earth wire. You can get some LEDs with single light point that are really small like the torch ones, if you really needed a narrow pinpoint light. That would mean adding some sort of regulation if you couldn't find a mines power one.
Nice lamp 2x👍
Thank you for the always thorough explanation. Love your content good Sir.
That's pretty nifty, could even make use of in my workshop😂 I like the coloured bulbs 👍Very interesting as usual!
There is an article in Lighting & Sound International magazine from November 1990 about the 4:1 Studio set up by Patrick Woodruffe. He says the inspiration for building a scale stage for lighting design was the 'Thomas Mini Par Cans'. So it looks like they were 'invented' around then but the name 'birdie' was not used or at least not used in print at the time. I was always under the impression it was a 'birdie' because it was '1 under Par'.
In the TV studios I've used them a lot, and usually we tended to give them a gentle wack with a stick when they decided not to turn on 😅
Mini source four elliptical spot lamps are cute as well
Back in the day we wouldconvert these and Par 20s to a E14 socket and put normal reflector bulbs in. That way they were great for small DJ booth lights, work lights, walkway lights and so on.
I have a couple of these as desk spotlights. Mounted on a shelf using 'universal C clamp for camera'. There are handy ip67 inline 3 pole connectors that make a nice job of splicing in mains cable safely.
Lovely. Guess I'll be going to CPC sometime in the very short future. Thanks.
I have two of these!!! Except i converted them to a G12 35w metal halide lamp! One lights up the corner of my room each night and has for years now!
I remember about 20 years ago doing a bit of skip-diving and finding some I think PAR30 or 38 lights (and having a think, I believe they too were Pulse branded!), with tracks, power distribution bars, cabling AND a disco lighting sequencer too, and thought those cans were cute, only took 8 of the lights as the rest had been mangled in the skip, but made a nice chunk of change selling them on ebay back then too, once I'd played with them for a few months that is... :P
I miss read this as 'sky diving' and was worried about how you found those while skydiving.
I did a bit of skip diving but never found anything that good. All my local industrial parks have boring skips. Good get!
@@tribes2archivist Never seen anything that good since, it was a skip outside an old pub being stripped out, think it was being turned into a house or flats eventually, so I just got lucky that day happening to be passing by and having a quick glance!!! :D
1:10. “To limit the spray of glass when the lamps blow”
!?!?!
Nobody mentioned hazard pay when we did a stage play in ninth grade with lamps very much like those.
It has happened a few times live on TV. have a look at "A Light Explodes In The Studio! | This Morning"
Thank you, keep working.
Since I don't see any other comments explaining it, I guess I will do it: Par is sorta like the "difficulty rating" of either a specific golf hole or an entire round/tournament, it's the number of strokes an average proficient golfer is expected to take to complete it and is used as a score benchmark. A more skilled golfer is able to do a hole under par, and a birdie specifically is one less than par on a given hole.
Clive, GU10s in that size are 50w max. There used to be available 75w versions but theyre physically larger and so wouldn't fit that light.
Small and nicely made.
Maybe so, but those GU-10 porcelain sockets all bake themselves and warp the spring contacts within them adding additional resistance and heat. Worst thing to come about to halogen bulbs in the 2000s era
@@CheezeCracker yeah, I've seen a bunch of them fail. Shouldn't be a problem with LEDs though, for their low power draw.
I once made a spotlight out of an MR16 lamp, a small sheet of black material rolled into a tube, the center of a spent roll of electrical tape, and duct tape to hold it all together. Worked a treat for filming and gave a nearly perfect spot!
Well, I've used plenty PAR64's and 56's in my live band days......but never a PAR16!
@@nickmerrylees8478 240VAC here in the UK.
@@nickmerrylees8478 Got even more complicated, If you ran ACL's (Aircraft Landing Lights), that had a really, really tight beam, you had to account in the patch for running them in series as they each ran on 28V. Not so bad in 6 lamp bars, but a real pain if the LD scattered them all over the rig at random...
@@pinkmouse4863 Yes I saw those in the military stores, but unfortunately there was no real reason I could figure to order a pack of 4 Boeing 747 landing lights, plus you also would need a rather upgraded alternator, as they draw nearly 100A each. But you would, with a single one, be able to light up 50km of road to daylight levels.
There are a number of different sizes, PAR 20, PAR 30, PAR 38, PAR 56 long and short and PAR 64 long and short, and probably others that I have not used.
PAR16 is / was an excellent bulb with one caviat. Life span. GU-10 versions are garbage (until they became available in LED)
The LEDs can create hot spots so I like a little soft diffusion in the Gel holder.
The original aluminium PAR 64 Parcans were produced in the early 1980s by James Thomas Engineering, a small engineering firm in the UK in Pershore, Worcestershire. They were located close to where I worked, and we were still using the originals in the 2010s.
However, who remembers making their own version out of Watney's Party 7 beer tins in the 1970s.
We have a huge number of Thomas units we used to use on the Edinburgh Tattoo.
Ah I remember using these as footlights but they were old school where they had transformers packs for each light. They were still controlled from the pack. The good old days.
come on admit it... the glove is just for doing an "old man Steptoe" impression on stage later......HAROLD!!!!
You dirty old man!😂
No, that’s his Michael Jackson impression!😮
4 of those make up the light above my dining table.
I run them with fairly warm white 36° GU10 230V LEDs. I had the special Osram ones which all failed mechanically. I can send you one, if you're interested. I also have an interesting light from the inside of a CNC lathe.
I replaced them with ones from IKEA and they're way nicer.
I remember using a set of 4 par 56 cans with a sound to light unit for djing years ago, great on stage when it was cold with heat thrown off them, but a nightmare doing summer gigs.
OH PS: I have always found it efficacious to squeeze both parts of that type of cord grip together (squishing the cord the same way it was put in) with a pair of slip-joint pliers, then pulling. Have a go.
Smile for the birdie
Water catchment area can affect eczema. It can make the difference between play up or heal up. This was randomly bourne out by a radio 4 prog on eczema after I'd been wondering why some areas of the UK did wonders for my hands and some areas quite the opposite. I had thought water supply or simply being away from oily workshop situations- oily hands, oily rags, GT85/WD40 in your tea etc. Nottingham was the only place where I could use washing up liquid without gloves. The water tasted nice too and the local beer was good.
I'm also a great believer in superglue, but note there are skin specific types although sometimes you have to use what there is.
Wait, no schematic on the birdie? They left out the zener diode, and I didn't see any evidence of an inrush resistor either.
awww totally adorbs
I miss working at the theater here.... When covid happened they laid all of us off and I never went back I was fill in on the weekends anyway...
Yes, "Par" on a golf course is holing the ball in the number of swings or "strokes" that is listed on each hole. The number for par on each hole varies on what the course determines as "normal" for the difficulty and distance from the tee. A Birdie would be holing the ball in one less stroke than par, and an Eagle 2 strokes less than par.
I have some of the 12v ones. Put them on simple dmx decoder which now controls my led strips and the lights. With good dimming for even "non" dimmable led lights
Always fancied those back in the day, but we ended up with a load of PAR36 pinspot housings with blown transformers thanks to a disco light controller with a short circuited SCR on one output - turns out transformers don't like half wave rectified AC at all. Then I discovered you could get 28V PAR36 ACL's so they ended up as series strings for all our small tight beam needs.
Those things have been the bane of my existence on some shows…😂
We have a section of lighting truss standing upright in our sitting room, with six par-16s mounted to provide some gentle lighting. Looks great, though we haven't wired them up for DMX yet.
That is a nice lamp, I like the smaller lamps for doing my Halloween projects, where I need to carefully control the subject I am illuminating. I get some of these single LED 5mm types, but I think they're a bit overpriced for what they are, however, they're pretty good and have held up for many seasons.
If you aren't already taking it you might like to try a vitamin D supplement to help with your eczema. Since, like me, you seem to be active at nighttime it is quite likely that you are VitD deficient. I take 5,000 IU daily as D3 and what was quite severe eczema has almost completely gone.
If you are deficient you should probably take 20,000 IU daily for about a week then drop to a lower level.
The recommended 600-800 IU is based on 100 year old science, primarily aimed at preventing rickets, and is woefully inadequate.
Add Vitamin K2 to that to prevent any rare side effects from having too much Calcium in the blood (Vitamin D3 increases the Calcium absorption from the digestive tract, K2 helps to transfer that Calcium into bones strengthening them).
MR16 Birdies are great, low profile, decent output, and dirt cheap. Not quite as cute or versatile as inkies (3" fresnel). Hands down the cutest lighting fixtures are the source4 mini lekos.
I think the film industry equivalent would be Dedolights. But those generally let you slide the lamp back to change the beam angle.
Yea... these are a lot less sophisticated and considerably cheaper than Dedolights. They give you quite a hard beam; and you can get barn doors for them - softening them has to be done with diffusion. What they're particularly useful is throwing in a little specular highlighting.
The barn doors are as expensive as the can itself - but you'll get two 240v cans, with doors, for about £40 from the bay of fleas.
You'll have to speak-up, Big Clive! ... It's very warm tonight, and I've got a fan, giving me a nice blow! ... Did I just type that out-loud, again? ... I blame you for my vulgar streak, Big Clive! ... I wasn't like that before I started watching you! 🤣
The video was very illuminating.
An ideal enclosure for those RGB 240v LEDs. You might be able to manage lateral spread by painting the inside of the snood with white or silver paint perhaps?
The name birdie comes from the golf expression. It means "one under par".
It always brings to mind George Carlin's sportscaster bit - "... he hit a birdie, two eagles and a duck this afternoon. "
Thanks :)
I've got several crates of used birdies in storage, love how they look, going to sand blast an repaint them for a micro scale domestic instillation of dmx linked decor lighting when I settle back into another suitable long term abode. All s&l techhie 'man caves' should be wired for dmx ;)
I remember when I first saw one of these installed in s museum in the very early 00's. I couldn't believe my eyes on how cute it was and that such a thingveven existed (I was aware of par 64's and liked them too) I eventually got myself a couple some years later (2009) I still have to replace one of them as the yoke broke away from the body from the crimped nuts where they crimp to the shell.
Clive, if have trouble with those push-in plugs. Use a cheap side cutter. Die grind a pocket one side a the other side cut it like a tooth. You then can squeeze that plug out.
A little off-topic, but if you have a dimmer switch that buzzes, you could try a Parathom Par16 bulb. This solved the problem I had.
you should do an overview of the source four mini from ETC. they're expensive but cool
It has a short cable designed to be terminated with a Stagepin or 2P&G connector.
Cliff makes a comeback!
4:01 Big Clive, I've had excellent results with a cream called Derma-E Tea Tree & Vitamin E Relief Cream. It smells really nice, too. Good luck!
From my limited golfing experience (which is like 90% wii sports) and a quick search on Wikipedia, par is the number of strokes that an average pro should need for a hole. A birdie is a score of one under par (e.g. two strokes for a par-3 hole), so it makes sense as a nickname for a smal (or smaller than usual) PAR can.
I want to see a video about the Tripple Bogey PAR can now...
It's "par for the course". 🤔 I'm ready for my close up Mr Demille, I just need more light. Great video, somewhat anemic lamp. Thanks for sharing. 👍😊
It's fine for its intended application of adding a bit of theming and colour to a set or room.
4:52 Wow! A product from China that has an actual attached and non-floating earth/ground wire?
American Dj had a Light that was four of these as heads on a long metal base that flashed to music. it was called "Quatro".
The old 12V Halogen were used because of their predictable color temperature. To align an old video camera you ran them with 13.8V and had the colors dead right.
I'd want to fit a GX10 socket and run a 20 or 35w metal halide MR16 in it 😎
I have 8 of them for my living room light XD With GU10 LED... I'm missing the filter frames though. Only managed to save 2. The set was thrown out at the venue I was volunteering, and I needed something to light my living room anyway.
This has given me ideas I have some strange vision things possibly caused or made worse from welding. I find any flicker in lighting causes me to loose a lot of detail in my vison so at my workbench I have 12v led lighting I have made powered through some big old deep cycle batteries because I also find with more detailed work I need extra light I tend to turn my work lights off and on a lot because when im looking up they are just to bright seems obvious now that a couple cans or any guide could be the trick to being a little more productive
Flicker in peripheral vision will keep triggering attention from the brain. It was originally intended to alert humans to nearby predators sneaking up.
Surely to make a more narrow bean you'd just need to extend the length of the tube/can, if they all have mounting attachments onto the end, they could easily start selling an extention, or a plate for the end with a smaller opening
That would just shutter the beam. For maximum efficiency the beam has to be shaped at source.
I do like me some parcans, but I much prefer cashews.
Yep, 25 years ago I asked "why's it called a birdie?" and was just told "dunno, it's just always been called that!"
Though about 8 years ago I finally discovered that the reason a 15A socket splitter is called a "grellie" is because there was a brand called Grelco that made them
At Northern Light we referred to the splitters as Grelcos.
Yep, just never knew it was a company
Nice lamp loads of uses shame they weren’t outdoor rated thanks Clive 😊
CPC in the UK sell very cheap sealed outdoor GU10 lights for LED bulbs.
I Heard the reason these miniature PAR were made was to be used in Scale stage models for Simulation. The way they did convince topacts for set design prior to existance of PC rendering.
Great vid again. @4:00 : re eczema : I've just had a sob flare up in my hands in the same place in both hands. Middle of palm , thumb side of under-wrist and top of thumb. For the life of me I cannot work out what caused it. Totally identical in both hands. Bizarre.
Have a couple thousand in hire stock. Always good for footlight on stages, fashion shows and art Exhibitions
But do you go black or polished?
@@Richard1977 We have both polished and black in 230v and 12v versions
@jameskane9763
Also different beam sizes?
Nice when you have some new employees keeping them sorted....
Talking from experience.
Funny how "under par" is a good thing in golf!
Hello Clive, after buying a cheap fingerprint drawer lock for a "secret cupboard" I'm my little lads wardrobe I was amazed that the £10 ones from ebay actually work (after some repair to the motor mechanism) I wonder if you'd like to have a look and explain the bits and pieces. Love the videos, thank you
Did you.... did you somehow know i recently, for the first time in my life, started looking for these exact type of lighting instruments? I've always wanted some kind of tiny DMX controlled lighting system at home (though i know the lights themselves are usually just standard plugs and you need dimmers for that but man there are some new tiny ass DMX dimmers)
Since we're talking about par cans I feel like I should chime in. my local movie theater, a 1900s building converted to a movie theater in the 1920s originally a garage. They do occasional events with a small stage so they have lights. At some point they were converted to LED unfortunately that didn't play very nicely with the dimmer packs not coming on until about halfway up thankfully no flickering. what I ended up doing was buying some 7w incandescent night lights and inserting them into each spare socket of the dimmer packs to add just enough load that things worked right. And to get around that their night lights and they would be visible I spray painted the bulbs and holders Black. Problem solved it's been working great for the last 2-3 years. Although I do need to find them a better lighting controller than the cheap Chinese clone of a clone of a clone with a DC barrel jack that keeps breaking.
That's because the dimmers use triacs, and triacs have a minimum latching current. LEDs don't typically draw enough power at low dimming levels to allow the triac to latch on. That's why adding extra 7w incandescent load to the circuit cures the problem
@@gorak9000 Yep!
And don't worry I've been in these things as well. A few of the triacs in the dimmer packs (x4) were blown. A combination of a few of them got blown out when somebody tried to cheat and use the nearest power outlet to run a drill.... And the other one I suspect was on the components margins for the incandescent lights cold in rush current. Oh I forgot to mention we have two really big old incandescent almost spots that somebody donated.
This one had me running around for a while as it seemed like random channels on the packs were going out and then I started thinking about it and realized I think those lights have been moving to different channels. And sure enough a few pages of Internet searching I'm not the only one finding that the component is a little undervalued, replaced with something a little bit better and so far no issues. Which is really good because I really don't wanna get up on top of the very top of the wooden ladder and fight to get the packs down again! When I had them down I proactively replaced most of them to avoid doing that.
Says max 50W halogen bulb or equivalent LED on the product page. I have a couple of old fashioned PAR 56:s with gels at our band's rehearsal space, can't run them in the summer as they give out quite a lot of heat and the room is too hot already.
This is where LED PAR Cans have made a huge difference. But they have their own quirks.
how does this do for distance to the area/subject to be lit?
what is it's spread?
Depends on the aperture angle of the MR you choose, the generic downlight-style of LEDs with the plastic diffuser on top have a wide aperture, usually 100-120° (floodlight beam), then you have ones with lenses that narrow the beam to 38°, 20°, 10°, etc. and halogens the narrowest I've used was 20°, not sure if you can get V/NSP stuff with mains rated filaments, as Clive said they're physically larger than their lower voltage counterparts.
For 12V in this size I have some 8° "Masterline" Philips meant for this style of theatre cans, they're usually 3m+ high so you need a narrow beam to focus the light over a person, table, small painting, vase, etc. Not sure if 4° existed but 4° "Aluline" (AR111) did and boy you can feel the heat radiating towards you from those things in stage
'Look out for the birdie' is a saying of photographers from the long exposure times of old cameras. The idea is to keep children still while the photo is being taken, so saving the photo from blurred heads. 😉 🐦
Would that make BLURRED heads? Of course, children should be seen and not heard...
@pstonard
Yes, definitely on a photograph.
Thank you 😊
"Par" is defined by the USGA as the number of strokes a professional golfer is expected to take to hole the ball on a given hole. eg. A hole that is up to 200 yards from the tee box to the hole is typically a par-3 as the pro golfer would be expected to drive it to the green in one shot and then easily get it in the hole in two puts. Holes of 300-400 yards would be par-4's (drive to short of the green, chip onto the green and two putts). Par-5's are those very long holes of 500 yards or more, where it would take two long shots to get near the green, a short shot onto the green and two putts to get in the hole. A 'Birdie' is getting your ball in the hole with one less than par, 'Eagle' is two less than par and 'Bogie' is one more stroke than par and 'Double Bogey', 'Triple Bogey' (otherwise known as 'Other') are your basic 'Ah Crap!' scores. Yeah... Love the game. You know why it's called 'Golf' don't ya? It's because all the other four letter words were already taken... 😏😆
and each time you miss, you feel like you're going to have a stroke! F, that's what we'll call it, a stroke, because every time you miss, it feels like you're going to f'in die! Right at the end, we'll put a flat piece, with a little flag, to give you f'in hope!
@@gorak9000 Why yes! Thank You Mr. Williams! I guess the rumors of your demise were exaggerated. 😏
Seepeesee claims they can handle a 50W halogen in their listing, and with the metal construction and high temp sleeves over the wires internally I believe that
Yup! 'three little birdies' are a 'standard carry' in my halogen kit... I run them with barn doors. 50W is the usual size bulb; they handle the heat just fine. Very useful little lamps - just pop a 5/8" stand adapter on and you're away.
Good looking light and break down. Would it have a better projection if the inside were line with chrome or such material? On another note, and the flickering of LEDs on adding them to vehicles not originally equipped with them, How many different methods are there like resisters, capacitors, relays, etc to stop the flickering? Flickering because of the computer control voltage output to sense a burnt bulb location etc. You have Great videos that even a person such a myself with very very little electronic or electrical knowledge can understand.
A reflective coating would result in more light spill sideways.
Nifty light
What a small PAR can do.
Not a lot of its line voltage, you'll get triple the output with a 12VDC MR
@@CheezeCracker Opening a can of worms.
Is it still possible to get mr16/gu10 halogen bulbs? Halogen bulbs produce a much wider color spectrum than any led does
It's getting harder to find the real thing.
Hig intensity LEDs are neat for so many, many fine purposes. Before a renovation 12-some years ago, one of my cinemas had old exit lights that had an incandescent bulb and a green filter cup. The bulbs were virtually unobtainable so I hacked a couple bases to hold a regulator and green LED. The same color, the same intensity, the same look with filter on. Not sure if it was code, but nobody ever checked anything else but that they are on at all times.
After the renovation we got modern exit lights with the running guy... they illuminated the screen so I applied some car window tint to the inside of the filter. Again not sure if that is code, but it is still visible and does not wash the screen out. And again nobody seems to check deeper than them being on.
What's up with the hand, if I may ask? (no need to answer if I may not)
A small soldering iron burn escalated into eczema. It's healed up now.
That's cute! Do you feed it carbon rods to fatten it up to a Super Trouper? 😂
I can't talk...I built up an off-off-off-Mainstage theatre as part of my Direction class. I made lights out of coffee cans, cheap hinges, and barn doors made from cut up coffee can steel. A dirt cheap light socket and a 110-volt standard screw in spot or flood lamp. If we needed gels, we clipped them to the edge of the can between the barn door hinges with bulldog clips. It worked, and I got a good grace for the class. We did get a small budget, and we stayed inside it.