I love my djinn and i fly 4s 850 and 6s 650 with no throttle limit on AXLS C145 1404.5 4500 KV with the 5 blade props and it flys amazingly. I didn't know they made 8 bladed props but I'm going to have to try those out.
Future vtx & cam design should consider the waterproof , like spoting the vtx hot area directly connected to the heatsink and isolated meanwhile the other cold part is sealed with something
Yeah I agree! It would be great if manufactures offered this option out of the box. But right now I am pretty happy, I improved it a lot since this video. Maybe I will make another one
@@LippeMannI would also be very happy about a new update video. I got this frame (also because of your great videos) and am thinking about the best way to set up the copter with 4s
I do not notice to much of a difference, just tiny improvements when it comes to flight characteristics and time. But it is important for that 250g mark
I made a quad using a naked o3 coated with worryfree and the processor ended up cracking after it hit the water. I think it was just temp shock or something.
Oh sheeeesh, yea that is something I didn't think of... But I noticed that the O3 stays quite cool in flight with this heatsink. I have to measure with an thermometer and do more testing. I can imagine if it gets dumped into water while being 90° C hot, that would hurt a lot...
I have these alphacool copper heatsinks. thin fins. might cool a lil better, you should try. I have a different smaller heatsink on my vista on my rc car with good heat transfer pad to stick
Was sind bis jetzt deine lieblings props für den build? Ich mag die hq dt63mmx4 und die neuen tr2.5x2.5x3 Die mehr blatt cinewhoop props sind gut für den sound aber nicht performance
Ich fliege die 4-Blatt HQ wenns bissl leiser sein soll und sonst die HQ 2.5x2.5x3 oder die Emax Avan 2.5. Ich wechsle recht viel durch, hatte mir viel auf Vorrat bestellt. Die Cinewhoop Props sind sehr experimentell und vor allem super fragil 😂
I'd like to see the M 1.6 holes drilled out to 2 mm. That way you can mount the vtx over a 25.5 mm AIO stack. I've been told that this can't be done and that the drill bit will break the corner of the board. Seems like it should be possible
I think it is possible if you're careful doing the drilling. Sure it will be more prone to breaking. But you also need a frame where that would make sense from a physical perspective. I do not see the benefits for this frame...
well done! I'm thinking to do the same but without applying a heatsink. in order to keep the weight as low as possible. My opinion is that coating is not necessary on the black surface of the p1 what do you think? by rhe way I'm using another frame to stay sub 160 incl batt 4s 550mah
I added the heatsink because I was worrying that the naked + coating would cause overheating quite quickly... You definetly need to add the coating to both the O3 boards though, and also some liquid rubber material to cover the plug connections, if you want to have it waterproof
Hello! I used conformal coating for the board on the back of the camera. I used PlasiDip ( plastidip.com/product/plastidip/ ) for the connector and also in between the lens and the camera body. Hope this helps, I can send you a pic if you want...
I used the flywoo kit to convert my dji o3 into naked, when I put it all together a fixed green light remains and I can't bind, does anyone know what I can do?
You need to press the bind button on the O3, to have a red blinking light and the re-pair it with googles and controller. I had the same problem, as seen in the video at 4:42 . You can also try to connect the O3 to the computer via USB C and reflash the firmware using DJI Assistant 2(Consumer Drones Series). After this I could bind.
@@LippeMann thanks bro, I have tried to install the firmware again, but when I press the bind button the light stays green, the light does not change to red
@@LippeMann I use the DJI Google v2, I have updated the firmware again and the light stays solid green, it does not change to red. Any idea how to fix it?
Hmmm that is really odd. When you power it on (using a battery), the light should turn from green to red after ̴ 20 sec. If that is not the case and your software is fine, try disassembling all of the air unit components again and pay close attention to all connections. Seems like some people have the same issue: www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1ao9xhs/dji_o3_air_unit_solid_green_led_does_not_bind_or/
@@LippeMann omg looking at tear down. The SDcard and something else isn't apart of the VTx or DVR board 🤯 .. think you'd have to cut it out to keep the mount they have for it.. yea too expensive to risk all that 🤣 🤣 🤣
That sounds a bit complicated, but you could just glue it together. And honestly, as long as you're able to stay sub250 with your build, those extra grams saved don't make to much of a difference
i used flywoo kitand i wasn't able to mount the naked camera, did you use your own screws ? without the comformal coating(can't find it in europe), the weight is still high, around 270 with 1404 xin2 motors... i'll be outlaw to fly it in 2024.
No I used the screws that Quadmula provided. You have the camera in the Flywoo "cage"? This is where I ordered the coating (I live in Germany) www.muellerbestellung.de/422C-55ML-MG-Chemicals-422C-Silikonmodifizierter-Schutzlack-55-ml Hmm what battery are you using? And what stack? What is the weight of the quad without batteries?
@@LippeMann but with flywoo cage it's 16 instead of 19... weight is 170 without battery(you forgot to weight your drone with strap). i'm using 850 tattu battery.
I would try a less heavy battery, like a 650mah HV, that should save you 20g. And what motors are you using? 170 sounds real heavy even with the naked conversion...
@@Ztall0880 That is really odd. I mean we are using similar stacks and motors. Guess it can only be different 3D printed parts / props / screws. I am using the TPU parts from quadmula
Sounds good on paper but your going to regret do that. Also those props break every easier than a 3 blade. Been there done that. But, good luck. I would probably destroy that in a weekend.
Dude get a MG chemicals flux pen and use before you use the iron! OMG so messy! And twist those wires first! Flux before every iron use and iso alcohol to clean up later. 422C cures a little to fast 422B will yield better coats too. nice work except the soldering / welding...
Hahaha Yeah actually I just ordered one. I know those solders look super bad right? It was my first build, maybe I should have practiced soldering before... but I was to eager to get started. Thanks for the tip with the 422B, I'll check that out!
Ja voll! Hab inzwischen bisschen mehr Erfahrung mit dem ganzen Thema und würds bestimmt etwas anders angehen. War aber interessant das alles mal selbst zu machen, bringt ja auch Spass mit sich 😊
Check my updated video on this: czcams.com/video/aGErUCfD1zw/video.htmlsi=nlRekyMSIrxn4GNy
I love my djinn and i fly 4s 850 and 6s 650 with no throttle limit on AXLS C145 1404.5 4500 KV with the 5 blade props and it flys amazingly. I didn't know they made 8 bladed props but I'm going to have to try those out.
Hahah be careful they are really delicate, but very quiet
Man I have the same motors
@@sosdeathvalley you've got to try the 6s 650 on those motors there bonkers.
Good job finding the hot chip!
I actually have that info from a video from Mads Tech! czcams.com/video/FyMtXhtlGmM/video.html
Stark digga 🎉
Thx Digga!
Future vtx & cam design should consider the waterproof , like spoting the vtx hot area directly connected to the heatsink and isolated meanwhile the other cold part is sealed with something
Yeah I agree! It would be great if manufactures offered this option out of the box. But right now I am pretty happy, I improved it a lot since this video. Maybe I will make another one
@@LippeMann please make another one i would like to do it
will do soon@@shredpotato1
@@LippeMannI would also be very happy about a new update video. I got this frame (also because of your great videos) and am thinking about the best way to set up the copter with 4s
It is on my to do list! I will do as soon as possible :)
I was under the impression conformal coating a VTX is a bad idea but I guess I didn’t know about the heat sink that comes with the flywoo kit
Yeah I was worried too. The heatsink is not included in the Flywoo kit but you can get it online...
Amazing job for 14g🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡👍👍👍👍
Hahaha yah thanks! Quite a hassle... with the 660mah I'm at 220g now, so I take that 😊
Did the reduced wight improve flight characteristics and flight time noticeably?
Or is it only worth it if you want to stay below 250g?
I do not notice to much of a difference, just tiny improvements when it comes to flight characteristics and time. But it is important for that 250g mark
I made a quad using a naked o3 coated with worryfree and the processor ended up cracking after it hit the water. I think it was just temp shock or something.
Oh sheeeesh, yea that is something I didn't think of... But I noticed that the O3 stays quite cool in flight with this heatsink. I have to measure with an thermometer and do more testing. I can imagine if it gets dumped into water while being 90° C hot, that would hurt a lot...
"You should never do this" *proceeds to do it anyway and leads by example*
hahahahahahah 😂
I have these alphacool copper heatsinks. thin fins. might cool a lil better, you should try. I have a different smaller heatsink on my vista on my rc car with good heat transfer pad to stick
They also look great but I guess they could be a little heavier and less robust. Mine works suprisingly well at the moment!
@@LippeMann one I have with thin fins 100% not robust. Fins will bend. Other one I have in car is robust.
Was sind bis jetzt deine lieblings props für den build?
Ich mag die hq dt63mmx4 und die neuen tr2.5x2.5x3
Die mehr blatt cinewhoop props sind gut für den sound aber nicht performance
Ich fliege die 4-Blatt HQ wenns bissl leiser sein soll und sonst die HQ 2.5x2.5x3 oder die Emax Avan 2.5. Ich wechsle recht viel durch, hatte mir viel auf Vorrat bestellt. Die Cinewhoop Props sind sehr experimentell und vor allem super fragil 😂
The heatsink idea is great. Does it still get hot with it?
Thanks! at 13:05 you can see my results from a overheating test. I did not yet have problems with overheating so far
I'd like to see the M 1.6 holes drilled out to 2 mm. That way you can mount the vtx over a 25.5 mm AIO stack. I've been told that this can't be done and that the drill bit will break the corner of the board. Seems like it should be possible
I think it is possible if you're careful doing the drilling. Sure it will be more prone to breaking. But you also need a frame where that would make sense from a physical perspective. I do not see the benefits for this frame...
Its of couse possible! The quadmula o3 lite kit have an m1,6 version and also a m2 version. They write about drilling the hole.
Schönes Video , Trau mich leider noch nicht ans coating 😅 aber gut zu wissen das du es kannst 😂
Danke Dir Bro! Ja sag bescheid, und lass uns bitte echt mal fliegen gehen im neuen Jahr 😊
Nice work, not many video out there. Good job. What is your max flying time , cruising and punching?
Hello! Thank you! Cruising I get around 6-7 min on the 850mah HV, punching and agressive flying around 4min
Nice 👍
well done! I'm thinking to do the same but without applying a heatsink. in order to keep the weight as low as possible. My opinion is that coating is not necessary on the black surface of the p1
what do you think? by rhe way I'm using another frame to stay sub 160 incl batt 4s 550mah
I added the heatsink because I was worrying that the naked + coating would cause overheating quite quickly... You definetly need to add the coating to both the O3 boards though, and also some liquid rubber material to cover the plug connections, if you want to have it waterproof
How did you coat the camera? taped off the connector I guess, but did you coat the front as well?
Hello! I used conformal coating for the board on the back of the camera. I used PlasiDip ( plastidip.com/product/plastidip/ ) for the connector and also in between the lens and the camera body. Hope this helps, I can send you a pic if you want...
I used the flywoo kit to convert my dji o3 into naked, when I put it all together a fixed green light remains and I can't bind, does anyone know what I can do?
You need to press the bind button on the O3, to have a red blinking light and the re-pair it with googles and controller. I had the same problem, as seen in the video at 4:42 .
You can also try to connect the O3 to the computer via USB C and reflash the firmware using DJI Assistant 2(Consumer Drones Series). After this I could bind.
@@LippeMann thanks bro, I have tried to install the firmware again, but when I press the bind button the light stays green, the light does not change to red
@@LippeMann I use the DJI Google v2, I have updated the firmware again and the light stays solid green, it does not change to red.
Any idea how to fix it?
Hmmm that is really odd. When you power it on (using a battery), the light should turn from green to red after ̴ 20 sec. If that is not the case and your software is fine, try disassembling all of the air unit components again and pay close attention to all connections.
Seems like some people have the same issue: www.reddit.com/r/fpv/comments/1ao9xhs/dji_o3_air_unit_solid_green_led_does_not_bind_or/
I want a decased moonlight
Then go ahead and make one 😂 And maybe make a video of it, would be interesting
@@LippeMann omg looking at tear down. The SDcard and something else isn't apart of the VTx or DVR board 🤯 .. think you'd have to cut it out to keep the mount they have for it.. yea too expensive to risk all that 🤣 🤣 🤣
That sounds a bit complicated, but you could just glue it together. And honestly, as long as you're able to stay sub250 with your build, those extra grams saved don't make to much of a difference
I wish BNF came with the option for this
Hahahah I can make you one if you don't mind bad soldering work 😂
Musst kucken, ob dein Barometer richtig läuft. Da ist besser wenn man drum herum coatet.
Hab das vor dem Coating mit einem Mini Stück Klebeband abgeklebt. Funktioniert danach gut.
i used flywoo kitand i wasn't able to mount the naked camera, did you use your own screws ?
without the comformal coating(can't find it in europe),
the weight is still high, around 270 with 1404 xin2 motors... i'll be outlaw to fly it in 2024.
No I used the screws that Quadmula provided. You have the camera in the Flywoo "cage"?
This is where I ordered the coating (I live in Germany) www.muellerbestellung.de/422C-55ML-MG-Chemicals-422C-Silikonmodifizierter-Schutzlack-55-ml
Hmm what battery are you using? And what stack? What is the weight of the quad without batteries?
@@LippeMann but with flywoo cage it's 16 instead of 19...
weight is 170 without battery(you forgot to weight your drone with strap).
i'm using 850 tattu battery.
I would try a less heavy battery, like a 650mah HV, that should save you 20g. And what motors are you using? 170 sounds real heavy even with the naked conversion...
xin 1404 4600kv... yes i don't know from where i'm getting this 170 :( stack is mamba 722 mini stack
@@LippeMann
@@Ztall0880 That is really odd. I mean we are using similar stacks and motors. Guess it can only be different 3D printed parts / props / screws. I am using the TPU parts from quadmula
Szervusz!
Sounds good on paper but your going to regret do that. Also those props break every easier than a 3 blade. Been there done that. But, good luck. I would probably destroy that in a weekend.
Hahaha thanks for mentioning. The 8 blade props are definetly not very robust. The drone itself is quite rigid. Lets see how long it lasts...
Dude get a MG chemicals flux pen and use before you use the iron! OMG so messy! And twist those wires first! Flux before every iron use and iso alcohol to clean up later. 422C cures a little to fast 422B will yield better coats too. nice work except the soldering / welding...
Hahaha Yeah actually I just ordered one. I know those solders look super bad right? It was my first build, maybe I should have practiced soldering before... but I was to eager to get started. Thanks for the tip with the 422B, I'll check that out!
in germany we say: wasn Aufwand..... 😅😂
Ja voll! Hab inzwischen bisschen mehr Erfahrung mit dem ganzen Thema und würds bestimmt etwas anders angehen. War aber interessant das alles mal selbst zu machen, bringt ja auch Spass mit sich 😊
Jo macht auf jedenfall bock an was neuem rumzu basteln. Ich werd mich bald mal an meine erste naked hero 9 ranwagen...@@LippeMann
@@deroskar Auch geil! In den kopter integriert oder mit "Bausatz"?
denke ein bausatz von flywhoo. kommt dann auf den cinewhoop@@LippeMann
Viel Erfolg! GoPro muss ich auch nochmal ran in Zukunft...
enjoyyed. stunning ~🙃