I just bought my parents’ neighbor’s S60 for $1250. Very old guy who bought it in 2001 but can’t drive anymore. The thing has 218k miles on it but it literally looks like it came off the lot yesterday. He gave me a stack of receipts and maintenance records the size of a dictionary. If it was driven by an old guy its whole life, I know it’ll be reliable. Couldn’t pass it up.
In a three-year period, my S40 MKI's oil cooler blew/leaked twice. The VVT pulley was leaking and would not stop even after being replaced (It was fine for a few months before the leaking returned) There was always a lot of pressure inside the engine. Even after a short drive, I always felt hotter. When moving near the car, there is mostly a slight burning oil odor. Even though the oil did not drip to the floor, due to the high pressure inside, oil came out slighly from the weakest points and burned on top of the warm engine outer metal walls. Oil level was also dropping slightly. There was also a haunting RPM drop issue (drops near 500-600 at idle), which I assume was unrelated to this but is worth mentioning. I did a lot of diagnosis in mechanic shops and came up empty-handed. Finally, when the oil cap was removed one day to find out a large amount of oil/mixture vapor pumping up like coughing. The PCV system was then cleaned and parts were replaced. With the dealer company who used to do authorized services on Volvos in early 2000's. And I drove it for a few months before selling it. Such a nice car and engine, but mechanics' knowledge of maintenance is limited. Particularly in countries where Japanese car brands are popular, such as the one in which I live. I wish I had known about PCV maintenance sooner so that I could have saved a lot of money, time, and frustration.
I just picked one up a 2004 S60 T5 for $600 it needs a waterpump with 300,000 miles it has good brakes all around but came with new pads and drilled rotors, a set of aftermarket rims, no rust I couldn't pass it up. I hope it will be a good little car to run around town every now and then.
Cheers, it is indeed fun to see what's going on - if in a limited way. Anyhow, even when there are codes set, it doesn't always mean it's a problem that needs absolutely fixed (like I'm mentioning at a few points in the video). Cheers to NZ!
If there is slugde in the cap it's nothing to do with oil change it show water had mixed with oil this can be because of gasket failure by to a warped head. Some lower milage diesel can get small spot on cap due to condensation which has become more common in modern engines.
I have a 2004 xc90 t6 that i bought a year and a half ago with about 113k mi and my cap looks like that underneath, but runs great. Put 16k miles on it so far. I change it with castrol high mileage oil, removed engine cover, k&n panel filter, and run 91-93 gas and that thing takes off 👍
Great. I would however recommend a real synthetic oil, the Castrol and Mobil "extended performance" are a blend of synthetic and mineral. Go rather with Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge 5W-30.
So I just tried the plastic bag over the open oil cap test and my XC70 seems to have no suction. This video is the first time I've heard of that test of the PCV. What are the biggest consequences of the lack of suction?
Again, for the PCV, if the plastic sucks in as shown, it means the PCV is in good condition. Do not assume aftermarket parts will last as long as genuine ones - inspect them every few years Here's a write up on the VVT and timing belt components - there is a passage saying "turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 of a turn clockwise, then turn back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond" - I do not recommend this particular step. Be sure to mark the cam gears everywhere before removal, ask on forums www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198
@@freddieleethompson3536 I'm not aware about how the diesel work (we don't have the diesel engine here in North America), but the folks in the UK should be able to advise www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19
Dude, I just checked error codes on the S60 I bought a few weeks ago and it has so many DTCs SET. It did run really rough after one start (check engine light came on) about a week after buying it. I filled the tank with injector cleaner and it's been solid ever since, no jerking and no check engine light. I have ABS DTC, CEM DTC etc. I can't remember the rest but there were lots. I can write them all up tomorrow. I should probably clear the error codes, drive a while and see what comes up? Perhaps previous owner fixed stuff but didn't clear codes...
I bought a used 2001 volvo s602.4T with 127976 at purchase only get codes p1618 and p0717 and p0014 I have no leaks anywhere but wanted your insight on what it could be? Is there a code for the valve body? If so I haven’t gotten that code since I purchased it in November any help works thank you!!
How well do you know volvos? i have a 98 s70 turbo and i loose throttle response whenever i apply the brake pedal...without brake pedal applied the car revs fine. PLEASE HELP
why was the A/C return pipe covered with foil paper ? i am just curious . is it to improve cooling in the A/C ? or to prevent water dripping. Nice video by the way.
Almost that, the A/C lines have rubber o-rings, I haven't used it a few winters, and these rings need to be kept lubricated inside the piping with the oil that's added to the refrigerant, otherwise they may start leaking a little and won't keep all the max pressure needed. My system still cools, just not perfect, so trying to save a little and preserve the lines from getting heat from the engine
@@Peppermint1 If you want to take this route, I would recommend 3M 425/SI260 Scotch 425 Aluminum Foil Tape. We use it in aviation all of the time, it will adhere better in all temperatures your car is exposed to. And also, your car won't look like an old hot dog wrapper--way cooler more like a space ship.
Im supposed to look at a 2006 xc90 2.5t fwd tomorrow. Check engine light & 250xxx mi on it. ALLEGEDLY only needs thermostat, MAF sensor, Camshaft sensor, and motor mount. They're selling it for $1500. In theory is this a good deal?
The AWD fails after 100K miles, needs PCV, 2004 had CEM corrosion, need to test the transmission when fully warmed up, it all depends what was already fixed czcams.com/video/aT5BHuKfTR0/video.html
If the metal part inside the cap is clean, it should meant the engine had regular oil changes - still try doing the PCV test As for the oil cap looking burnt, it may mean the top of the engine gets overly hot at moments. I've had this on my car, and read about it on forums as well. The temp gauge would still stay at 12 o'clock. I think this may be caused by lean burning (possibly from stuck compression rings), clogged coolant passages, incorrect spark plugs, or failed intake air thermostat (only on non turbo engines). I've since fixed mine, and now the top of the engine no longer feels like 'it's on flames' . Cheers
@@anthonyherrera2485 Yes, if it looks like in the video it means its very clean and you may expect the engine to look very clean inside as well, which means it was very well maintained (oil changes). It is a very good.
Hey Peppermint, I see you're still active in the comments. I'm looking at a 2007 Volvo S60 2.5T with 155,000 miles on it. Do you find these vehicles reliable? I need a car that can travel for hours at a time without issue. I see the vehicle in this video has 310,000 miles. I've never owned a Volvo are they hard to maintain? I try to do all my vehicle work myself. (Im used to Honda's)
Mine is in km and the cluster was replaced. It actually has 230,000km or 140,000 miles. The best is to find an owner who has plenty of repair papers showing quality part brands (I have a video about these brands). That would be a car well taken care of. These cars also need either a good local independent garage or DIY repairs, the dealership is very expensive and not always honest.
I owned a 2003 s60 2.4t that I bought with 60k miles on it. I ended up selling it with 250k miles on it. I also have a 2004 XC90 2.5t that has been my DD for 11 years & currently purrs with 260k miles on it. The engines & transmissions on these are very good as long as you take care of them. Mobil 1 synthetic every 8k miles & drain & fill the trans fluid with 3309 once a year.Timing belt/water pump every 100K & get an indy shop to service the PCV system. If it is 150k miles or higher get the main engine seals replaced, Costly(~$1000) but will run another 150k miles like nothing. Also, FCP Euro has killer deals/lifetime warranty on everything, even oil so parts aren't killers for cost if you can turn a wrench. These are easy to work on compared to my cramped BMW 328xi.
Those have fragile transmissions and expensive throttle body. Drive the car warmed up and feel for smooth gear changes and no problem accelerating and no Engine light. If all it's fine, I think I would get it. May want change half transmission oil with 3309 type
I think to remember there is a cabin light sensor on the climate module unit, right at the bottom of the three buttons with the human figurine. I don't remember exactly the issue but either this sensor is not reading properly the ambient light intensity, or there may be an issue with the headlight switch unit (left of the steering wheel). Try maybe covering the small sensor with some black tape see what happens. May as well ask on forums such as www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 (I suggest asking on the S60 section, more people will see the question)
Good question. I'm assuming you want to be 100% sure, not just looking for the T5 badge on the trunk, or on the cam belt cover sticker with the engine code (anyone can swap that cover). There is also the sticker on the hood with the engine code. The 01-03 T5 engine was a 2.3L size with big turbo with the B5234T3 code in the US. The 01-03 2.4T small turbo code was B5244T3 in the US. Normally, there was only a 2.4T engine with small turbo, but on internet it seems there was also a 2.3T with small turbo with the code B5234T7. I can't find more information on this B5234T7 engine, maybe it was a smaller version of the 2.4T small turbo sold for the European and International market. If you are in the US, I would assume if the engine is 2.3L size it would be the big turbo T5 (when you put the VIN on www.vindecoder.net/ ). Another trick is to get the VIN and ask Volvo dealer, they should have the exact information which engine is in there.
Glad it helped. Besides, keep in mind the 2001-2002 were problematic with the throttle body and the automatic transmissions. The manual transmissions also had a weak clutch slave cylinder, very expensive repair
Well, after 2003 the automatic transmission was better but it can shift more harsh if the fluid was never changed. 2004-2005 had problems with the CEM from water ingress.. 2007-2009 should have had several glitches fixed and be a better car overall.
It depends how much, but that would indicate cheap oil was used and also the oil was not changed frequently. In other words, there is a good chance the owner didn't pay much attention to overall maintenance. The PCV system can also be clogged which may cause engine seals to start leaking.
Interesting point. It could also be related to cheap oil or poor oil change intervals, but indeed that may also indicate more car wear due to often short trips. However, from reading on forums I would say that maybe past 150k miles or so, most of the PCV become problematic - perhaps only those who had frequent oil changes using good synthetic oils may escape this fate. Overall, it's still the most important check on these engines, along the tb and the usual wear components (some turbo components, serp belt items, torque mounts, etc)
Having troubles is one thing, but if you are looking for parts go to places like Fcpeuro.com - just be sure to get the right brands, not the cheapest ones.
Every single part is available in aftermarket for Volvo cars, just be sure to get only the quality brands (Sachs, etc). You don't have to buy anything from Volvo. Same for servicing, use a small knowledgeable garage. Same is true for any european vehicle
@@manishhsharmaa Manish with all of the P2 I5 cars good synthetic every 8K miles is critical. Also, draining & filling trans with 3309 fluid(also found as Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid & Toyota T-IV fluid) each year is good protocol. Timing belt/water pump is every 100K miles.
I just bought my parents’ neighbor’s S60 for $1250. Very old guy who bought it in 2001 but can’t drive anymore. The thing has 218k miles on it but it literally looks like it came off the lot yesterday. He gave me a stack of receipts and maintenance records the size of a dictionary. If it was driven by an old guy its whole life, I know it’ll be reliable. Couldn’t pass it up.
I’m about to buy a 2004 s60 let me know how the car is
@@likemycomment_6974 you liking it so far?
@@likemycomment_6974 did you ever buy it and is it reliable. I’m also currently looking at a 04 Volvo S60
@@likemycomment_6974 how is it ?
@@michaelunderhill5497 I Never bought it the car I went to see had many issues and the check engine light came on during the test drive
Really great info on PCV system. No one actually mentions it.
Blown oil cooler, leaking VVT pulley, oil burn smell, oil lost, you name it.
Yeah what’s the oil burn smell about
Can you explain
In a three-year period, my S40 MKI's oil cooler blew/leaked twice. The VVT pulley was leaking and would not stop even after being replaced (It was fine for a few months before the leaking returned) There was always a lot of pressure inside the engine. Even after a short drive, I always felt hotter. When moving near the car, there is mostly a slight burning oil odor. Even though the oil did not drip to the floor, due to the high pressure inside, oil came out slighly from the weakest points and burned on top of the warm engine outer metal walls. Oil level was also dropping slightly.
There was also a haunting RPM drop issue (drops near 500-600 at idle), which I assume was unrelated to this but is worth mentioning.
I did a lot of diagnosis in mechanic shops and came up empty-handed. Finally, when the oil cap was removed one day to find out a large amount of oil/mixture vapor pumping up like coughing.
The PCV system was then cleaned and parts were replaced. With the dealer company who used to do authorized services on Volvos in early 2000's.
And I drove it for a few months before selling it.
Such a nice car and engine, but mechanics' knowledge of maintenance is limited. Particularly in countries where Japanese car brands are popular, such as the one in which I live. I wish I had known about PCV maintenance sooner so that I could have saved a lot of money, time, and frustration.
Excellent tips, thanks! I have been doing my own maintenance for 30+ years and have not seen that PCV test.
Great information and tip about to check the PCV system..
Thanks!
This is a vary helpful video, I’m going to look at high mileage s60 tomorrow, I’m definitely using these tips
Thanks for the method of checking the PCV system - had not seen that anywhere else
Very, very helpful. Thank you.
Awesome!... I just picked up a 2.5 for 1500. So far so good. 🙌 Love this car. 🥰
Buddy mine says it needs an emission service how much would that cost?
Thanks for the information. Nice video buddy
Cheers
Thank you! You helped my buy my s60
I just picked one up a 2004 S60 T5 for $600 it needs a waterpump with 300,000 miles it has good brakes all around but came with new pads and drilled rotors, a set of aftermarket rims, no rust I couldn't pass it up. I hope it will be a good little car to run around town every now and then.
I just bought the same car is it still running good
just got a 2001 s60 2.0T a few days ago, and slowly checking things over,..thanks for making these info videos.
peace from NZ.
Cheers, it is indeed fun to see what's going on - if in a limited way. Anyhow, even when there are codes set, it doesn't always mean it's a problem that needs absolutely fixed (like I'm mentioning at a few points in the video). Cheers to NZ!
Thank you, going to look at one today.
I'm glad I found this video after I bought the s60😂
I just bought a 04 with 180k miles, so far so good. Sounds like a manual transmission sorts car
Thank You so much for this video
Thanks for the info
Thnx great 👍 advice 🙏🙏
Good stuff thanks
If there is slugde in the cap it's nothing to do with oil change it show water had mixed with oil this can be because of gasket failure by to a warped head.
Some lower milage diesel can get small spot on cap due to condensation which has become more common in modern engines.
I have a 2004 xc90 t6 that i bought a year and a half ago with about 113k mi and my cap looks like that underneath, but runs great. Put 16k miles on it so far. I change it with castrol high mileage oil, removed engine cover, k&n panel filter, and run 91-93 gas and that thing takes off 👍
Great. I would however recommend a real synthetic oil, the Castrol and Mobil "extended performance" are a blend of synthetic and mineral. Go rather with Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge 5W-30.
Great info
my 06 xc90 has a coolant leak somewhere and I'm going to try that pvc trick
So I just tried the plastic bag over the open oil cap test and my XC70 seems to have no suction. This video is the first time I've heard of that test of the PCV. What are the biggest consequences of the lack of suction?
Should’ve watched this vid yesterday
If it sucks in at the oil filler means your pcv is clear and good, if it blows out your pcv is blocked.
Thanks, I thought the reason for this was bad piston rings
Thank you
Again, for the PCV, if the plastic sucks in as shown, it means the PCV is in good condition. Do not assume aftermarket parts will last as long as genuine ones - inspect them every few years
Here's a write up on the VVT and timing belt components - there is a passage saying "turn the crankshaft a further 1/4 of a turn clockwise, then turn back counter-clockwise until the markings correspond" - I do not recommend this particular step. Be sure to mark the cam gears everywhere before removal, ask on forums www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/annotationattachment.aspx?fileid=6198
Mine blows out on idle but sucks in when revved up. XC90 D5 2.4 Auto.
@@freddieleethompson3536 I'm not aware about how the diesel work (we don't have the diesel engine here in North America), but the folks in the UK should be able to advise www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19
Hy man. I drive 2005 volvo s60 i got problem with engine light but run runs good. Pls help me how to fix it
thx for the info
Welcome
How can i translate massages on the dashboard into my understanding. Pls help me out there
Dude, I just checked error codes on the S60 I bought a few weeks ago and it has so many DTCs SET. It did run really rough after one start (check engine light came on) about a week after buying it. I filled the tank with injector cleaner and it's been solid ever since, no jerking and no check engine light. I have ABS DTC, CEM DTC etc. I can't remember the rest but there were lots. I can write them all up tomorrow. I should probably clear the error codes, drive a while and see what comes up? Perhaps previous owner fixed stuff but didn't clear codes...
That's a good idea to have them cleared and then see from there
I bought a used 2001 volvo s602.4T with 127976 at purchase only get codes p1618 and p0717 and p0014 I have no leaks anywhere but wanted your insight on what it could be? Is there a code for the valve body? If so I haven’t gotten that code since I purchased it in November any help works thank you!!
How well do you know volvos? i have a 98 s70 turbo and i loose throttle response whenever i apply the brake pedal...without brake pedal applied the car revs fine. PLEASE HELP
Looks like a vacuum issue, I would recommend using a forum, they have quite a good knowledge www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=1
why was the A/C return pipe covered with foil paper ? i am just curious . is it to improve cooling in the A/C ? or to prevent water dripping. Nice video by the way.
my guess is to stop the heat from making the rubber hosing crack and leak...but im only guessing.
Almost that, the A/C lines have rubber o-rings, I haven't used it a few winters, and these rings need to be kept lubricated inside the piping with the oil that's added to the refrigerant, otherwise they may start leaking a little and won't keep all the max pressure needed. My system still cools, just not perfect, so trying to save a little and preserve the lines from getting heat from the engine
@@Peppermint1 If you want to take this route, I would recommend 3M 425/SI260 Scotch 425 Aluminum Foil Tape. We use it in aviation all of the time, it will adhere better in all temperatures your car is exposed to. And also, your car won't look like an old hot dog wrapper--way cooler more like a space ship.
Im supposed to look at a 2006 xc90 2.5t fwd tomorrow. Check engine light & 250xxx mi on it. ALLEGEDLY only needs thermostat, MAF sensor, Camshaft sensor, and motor mount. They're selling it for $1500.
In theory is this a good deal?
sounds like alot of work
Any advice for 2.5 T B5254 T2 AWD (154 kW) 2004 automatic box, petrol?
The AWD fails after 100K miles, needs PCV, 2004 had CEM corrosion, need to test the transmission when fully warmed up, it all depends what was already fixed czcams.com/video/aT5BHuKfTR0/video.html
if the engine oil cap is burnt but the inside looks like yours in the video is it good ? pls let me know thank you
If the metal part inside the cap is clean, it should meant the engine had regular oil changes - still try doing the PCV test
As for the oil cap looking burnt, it may mean the top of the engine gets overly hot at moments. I've had this on my car, and read about it on forums as well. The temp gauge would still stay at 12 o'clock. I think this may be caused by lean burning (possibly from stuck compression rings), clogged coolant passages, incorrect spark plugs, or failed intake air thermostat (only on non turbo engines). I've since fixed mine, and now the top of the engine no longer feels like 'it's on flames' . Cheers
Peppermint the metal part inside looks exactly like this video is that a good thing ? and yes definitely will thank you very much means a lot
@@anthonyherrera2485 Yes, if it looks like in the video it means its very clean and you may expect the engine to look very clean inside as well, which means it was very well maintained (oil changes). It is a very good.
Hey Peppermint, I see you're still active in the comments. I'm looking at a 2007 Volvo S60 2.5T with 155,000 miles on it. Do you find these vehicles reliable? I need a car that can travel for hours at a time without issue. I see the vehicle in this video has 310,000 miles. I've never owned a Volvo are they hard to maintain? I try to do all my vehicle work myself. (Im used to Honda's)
Mine is in km and the cluster was replaced. It actually has 230,000km or 140,000 miles. The best is to find an owner who has plenty of repair papers showing quality part brands (I have a video about these brands). That would be a car well taken care of. These cars also need either a good local independent garage or DIY repairs, the dealership is very expensive and not always honest.
I owned a 2003 s60 2.4t that I bought with 60k miles on it. I ended up selling it with 250k miles on it. I also have a 2004 XC90 2.5t that has been my DD for 11 years & currently purrs with 260k miles on it. The engines & transmissions on these are very good as long as you take care of them. Mobil 1 synthetic every 8k miles & drain & fill the trans fluid with 3309 once a year.Timing belt/water pump every 100K & get an indy shop to service the PCV system. If it is 150k miles or higher get the main engine seals replaced, Costly(~$1000) but will run another 150k miles like nothing. Also, FCP Euro has killer deals/lifetime warranty on everything, even oil so parts aren't killers for cost if you can turn a wrench. These are easy to work on compared to my cramped BMW 328xi.
@@eddiewouldgo19 Good advice
You are missing the right side timing belt cover, if a dirt or leaf goes inside of it while you drive it will fk your engine up.
Do you think a 2002 Volvo S60 with 74k miles bad for a first car?
Those have fragile transmissions and expensive throttle body. Drive the car warmed up and feel for smooth gear changes and no problem accelerating and no Engine light. If all it's fine, I think I would get it. May want change half transmission oil with 3309 type
Nice video, but it would help to know what type of engine this is.
Hi The engine in the video is a gasoline 2.4 non turbo
@chimpskij how do I know the difference between a 2002 s60 2.5t and a T5
I have a 2004 XC90 and the info area, mileage, etc as well as the radio screen are all very dim. What causes this?
I think to remember there is a cabin light sensor on the climate module unit, right at the bottom of the three buttons with the human figurine. I don't remember exactly the issue but either this sensor is not reading properly the ambient light intensity, or there may be an issue with the headlight switch unit (left of the steering wheel). Try maybe covering the small sensor with some black tape see what happens. May as well ask on forums such as www.volvoforums.org.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=19 (I suggest asking on the S60 section, more people will see the question)
What is the PCV system???
Same question
Motor is ticking. Doesnt sappose to sound like that i have a 04 volvo s60 mine is quiet
Those were just the injectors ticking, normal.
The tekst is in contradiction to what you said about the PCV system
Why do you think so, Johan ? Let me know so I correct if I said something wrong Cheers
An old lady is selling her s60 and it seem like she's the original owner and all services done on the dealership. 245k kms fwd auto for 3k cad
How do I know if I'm buying a 2002 S60 2.5t or T5
Good question. I'm assuming you want to be 100% sure, not just looking for the T5 badge on the trunk, or on the cam belt cover sticker with the engine code (anyone can swap that cover). There is also the sticker on the hood with the engine code.
The 01-03 T5 engine was a 2.3L size with big turbo with the B5234T3 code in the US. The 01-03 2.4T small turbo code was B5244T3 in the US. Normally, there was only a 2.4T engine with small turbo, but on internet it seems there was also a 2.3T with small turbo with the code B5234T7. I can't find more information on this B5234T7 engine, maybe it was a smaller version of the 2.4T small turbo sold for the European and International market. If you are in the US, I would assume if the engine is 2.3L size it would be the big turbo T5 (when you put the VIN on www.vindecoder.net/ ). Another trick is to get the VIN and ask Volvo dealer, they should have the exact information which engine is in there.
@@Peppermint1 Thank you so much for your quick reply, with the information you gave me I decided not to buy the volvo I was interested in.
Glad it helped. Besides, keep in mind the 2001-2002 were problematic with the throttle body and the automatic transmissions. The manual transmissions also had a weak clutch slave cylinder, very expensive repair
@@Peppermint1 which year would you recommend for the S60 T5?
Well, after 2003 the automatic transmission was better but it can shift more harsh if the fluid was never changed. 2004-2005 had problems with the CEM from water ingress.. 2007-2009 should have had several glitches fixed and be a better car overall.
Why shouldn't buy a Volvo if it has thick oil build up on the cap ?
It depends how much, but that would indicate cheap oil was used and also the oil was not changed frequently. In other words, there is a good chance the owner didn't pay much attention to overall maintenance. The PCV system can also be clogged which may cause engine seals to start leaking.
If the pcv is shot you just bought a short mileage car. To work and back, no long trips.
Interesting point. It could also be related to cheap oil or poor oil change intervals, but indeed that may also indicate more car wear due to often short trips. However, from reading on forums I would say that maybe past 150k miles or so, most of the PCV become problematic - perhaps only those who had frequent oil changes using good synthetic oils may escape this fate. Overall, it's still the most important check on these engines, along the tb and the usual wear components (some turbo components, serp belt items, torque mounts, etc)
No links
Added at the end of video. Also check the video description for Codes details
Never buy a Volvo with aluminium folie
This specific car is actually in quite good condition
Why
You must not live in the United States I had on of theses nothing but trouble from day one
Having troubles is one thing, but if you are looking for parts go to places like Fcpeuro.com - just be sure to get the right brands, not the cheapest ones.
Dude what is with all the tinfoil wrapped around things under the hood of your Volvo?
Cheap heat shield most likely
Then you don’t live in the United states
Means dnt buy used volvo
No it really doesn't
DONT EVEN OPEN THE HOOD RUN AS FAST AS YOU CAN AWAY FROM THIS CAR PARTS AND SERVICE ONLY FROM VOLVO SUPER EXPENSIVE BETTER HAVE DEEP POCKETS STAY AWAY
Every single part is available in aftermarket for Volvo cars, just be sure to get only the quality brands (Sachs, etc). You don't have to buy anything from Volvo. Same for servicing, use a small knowledgeable garage. Same is true for any european vehicle
500 000km so far and no major issues. Cheap to service, pretty simple to fix.
@@formatique_arschloch what do you change regularly? oil , brakes , timing belt and ? which car . thanks
@@manishhsharmaa Manish with all of the P2 I5 cars good synthetic every 8K miles is critical. Also, draining & filling trans with 3309 fluid(also found as Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid & Toyota T-IV fluid) each year is good protocol. Timing belt/water pump is every 100K miles.