One thing I noticed is regarding the vertical rebar. I'm not sure how far it was stabbed in. If stabbed in past the pour depth into the ground to stabilize it, over time, corrosion of the exposed rebar will lead to Spalding of the concrete. The video wasn't clear about that, but considering the vertical bars were unsupported in wet concrete, my assumption is that ground friction was used to stabilize their position. I concede, I may be wrong, just an observational question.
well done dudes! I did a lot of this kind of stuff back in the day. Before there was cordless. Snap ties and form ties and jiffy clips. That blowout on the bottom corner. Yep been there done that
Thanks for the info and video. I like your method. I think of also adding some polyethylene or poly propylene loops before you add the dirt back around the foundation on the inside. I don’t know how you’re heating your place, but having an option of some ground source heat pumps for the future might be a good idea . two to three hundred dollars worth of tubing that may never be used isn’t that a bad investment should you need to use it in the future
Weekend Part-time Busser at the local diner and full time Qualified and Certified Fabric Sofa Repairman here in my city, just wanted to say you did an excellent job, definitely up to my standards. Will just suggest maybe chamfering the corners and at the beginning, soaking down the substrate for the footing before the concrete was poured in. Will help prevent the ground from sucking all the moisture in that footing.
It's bad enough you doing this crocs, but using a rock as a hammer is just showing off. good work. I am a do a 2 foot tall by 8 in wide probably 40 ft long at my place, Ima mount a gate on top of it...all custom no less. great example and thank you...I think you can use this same concept to install a pool also.
very nice video. gives me a lot of help. i am building a 28x28 garage under a ocean house on pilings. contractors here wants to build the retaining wall from wood vs the concrete footer and wall you did. so i am going thru the process to price out both ways and see which one is cheaper. a few questions: 1. threaded rod and pvc pipe diameter used? 2. my wall is only 3 feet high so i guess i should cut the 4x8 sheets down to 3x8 so can finish top surface? how do you decide the amount of rebar for footer, wall and slab? if this is just code, is there a good place to find this online? thanks again.
You mention that the wall could be pushed in by backfilling on one side, the old timers used a keyway the footing by just laying a 2x4 down on the wide side or even a 4x4 down the center after the footing was poured, the next day after the footer was set the keyway lumber was removed, so when the walls were poured the fresh concrete fills in the keyway and there was zero possibility of the wall moving. Are you going to fill the holes where the PVC pipes were with hydraulic cement? Using the hammer drill was pretty slick, good thinking.
I watched thousands of yards of walls poured that exact way. It's a great idea, and keeps retaining walls firmly on the footer. The pushing I have seen on back filling is actually the wall bowing in at the top. Concrete is flexible to a point, Though not much, over 20 feet it can bow in a couple inches before failure.
Nice job I have in the trade for 48 years they do make a cardboard sleeve my be much cheaper than pipe but all in all nice job. You can prop for me any time add a little gerese to rods
Great job !!! Need the same doing here in the UK . 6ft high x 11 ft length on 3 sides between £10, 000 -£13,000 I have been quoted ..so looking at if I'm up to it myself and looks straight forward but it's the what if ... if you don't mind saying what did it cost you to do ? Just interested if there is much difference from UK in price ..cheers Mike
Man I love how you’re thinking outside the box but part of the benefits of a concrete wall is it’s a solid barrier, no holes in it! That’s the benefit of an actual “snap tie” system. Snap off your ties and no holes in your environmental barrier. Snap ties are designed to be broken or twisted off after the pour. If you’re building a home consider purchasing snap ties for this reason.
Yes, I agree. If it wasn't just a porch footer, I would have used snap ties. these above grade holes will be waterplugged for aesthetics. The snap tie system was just too much money for one job.
Hey i loved the video im doing exactly the same thing .i have a few questions what thickness of OSB did you use ? What diameter of threaded rod did you use and how did you determine your spacing ? Keep up the good work
I used 5/8ths. Because that's what I had on hand. 3/4 probably would've been better. Spacing was determined from what using wedges and snap ties require.
I was thinking of doing something similar. Glad O found this video. Got a couple of questions. First of all, what about the holes from the pipe? Do you fill these later on? Secondly, is that vibrator an attachment to a drill or a dedicated vibrator? Thanks
Great job on everything!! Two questions about the footing you poured though. Why no keyway? Helps a lot with horizontal pressure from backfilling and also makes water intrusion harder. Second was the rebar just laying on the ground? I couldn't tell from video angle, but if its just on the dirt it wont help much! Not criticism, just curious, video and job was great to watch
Thanks. The footer has 2 rebar run continuously and are suspended with tie wire off of the cross 2x4's. I did not key as there will be fill on both sides, and really doesn't need it for this application. I am not concerned with water intusion either as it is just a porch footer and does not expose any interior to risk of water.
I think you helped a lot of people with this bud! Great Job!. I read below you used 6 ft thd rod, so 2 ft length was enough to get the nuts and washers on? I might be using this instead of stap ties as well for a garage project.
Great video, looks really good. What are your thoughts on the Dewalt concrete vibrator? Would you get that one again if you had to do it all over again?
For small projects is great. I've been pleased with all my dewalt tools. They aren't the best of the best. But they fit a good quality to cost value that suits my needs. I have a Wacker Neuson consolidator with a 12 ft whip and 1 inch square pencil. That is a much better tool for the job but it's 110v and cumbersome. So for deeper and bigger pours I use that. For small stuff the dewalt is just fine.
Thank you for the reply, I've been back and forth on whether to buy it or not, nothing like talking to someone that actually uses it, thanks again. @@andersonpropertymaintenanc952
That is probably the downfall if you're using this as a foundation with interior exposure. All of my above grade exterior holes have been plugged with a cement face product called water plug. It's not a perfect solution but it looks good
I honestly don’t think of it as the downside. Some of these “plug the crack” types of products are stronger than concrete. I am about to build ICF in south Florida, but stem wall and anything below grade cannot be ICF due to protection from termites. They suggest using CMU below the ICF, but I would much rather build a monolithic concrete structure - just like the one you built. I love your concept!
@@uticatechclub923 check out nadurra one product where it's foam on the inside but you use panels on the outside that you screw off after the concrete is poured so you end up with a product that is insulated on the inside but concrete on the outside
Having those holes in a basement would be bad, also having a hole every 2' in a line would weaken the wall. You can buy special ties that go in, or if you use rod just don't put the pvc in there and cut the rods off after. I think the proper ties are going to be cheaper.
Enjoyed the entire concrete wall build, fill, pour, skreed, teardown, and the final product. I'm going to use your method to make a thicker concrete wall which will ultimately be a retaining wall on the far side of a slab recently poured. Why did you drill the holes with the hammer drill? Was that to drill out the PVC tubes left inside the concrete wall or was it to just make the holes larger for a bolt that you'll drill through later? Your entire wall project turned out great! 👍🏽🤠 12/14/23
Just a suggestion. Where your wall pushed out in the corner instead of cutting the Styrofoam off why not just make the drywall thicker and save insulation value.
So.... there's no rebar in the foundation horizontally- as soon as that settles, there's gonna be huge cracks up the walls, not to mention the L bend in the rebar is needed to give the vertical wall stability. You can't just stick a straight section of rebar into some wet concrete and expect it to have any kind of lasting stability-
I like some of the other stuff you did in the video, but, skipping proper rebar work is a MAJOR misstep and the people who don't know any better are gonna be replicating that. 🤯💀
Sorry matt. I've been building my own house with just my dad. Completed a 200 ft road construction project. Kept machinery running. Moved 600 yds of fill. Etc etc etc. And tried to make family time. CZcams is low on my priority list. It's not like I'm making millions of dollars Spending hours upon hours recording and editing videos. When the building season shows down and I have free time, I'll edit and post more videos.
Man I miss running excavator and building with concrete . Nothing like the smell of concrete in the morning
Digs the hole then jumps in and cleans it himself!!! I salute you
I need to see a lot more of these home-made plywood wall forms.
Thank you for checking it out
I'm a retaining wall contractor I wanted to troll you and talk trash . but I can't. Great job 👏
lol. thanks for that
@@andersonpropertymaintenanc952 Yea this aint DIY level. Its proffessional level.
@@patrickbellefleur5508 well that's awful kind. I'm blushing. Lol
Lol, we carpenters are the worst when inspecting the other guys work. Famous phrase : "Who did that?" Too funny! Kudos to you for giving propers.
One thing I noticed is regarding the vertical rebar. I'm not sure how far it was stabbed in. If stabbed in past the pour depth into the ground to stabilize it, over time, corrosion of the exposed rebar will lead to Spalding of the concrete. The video wasn't clear about that, but considering the vertical bars were unsupported in wet concrete, my assumption is that ground friction was used to stabilize their position. I concede, I may be wrong, just an observational question.
Cribber here. Simple but effective.nice job man
Architecture student here, very good video here, thank you💪🏼
Y'all did Great in a half hour. Better Tamper than most contractors too. 😂
Love the form system. Thank you for sharing it.
Fantastic presentation! Just what I was looking for and copy! Thanks a lot! Cheers
Awesome idea! It turned out great! Take care and I’ll see you on the next one…
Great PRO EXCAVATOR WORK-a skill level I can only dream of. And not worried about much frost too---Wow
well done dudes! I did a lot of this kind of stuff back in the day. Before there was cordless.
Snap ties and form ties and jiffy clips.
That blowout on the bottom corner. Yep been there done that
Excellent job 👏🏾👍🏾
Nice work 👍😎
Great job mate!!!
Great job, I learnt a lot, thanks for sharing
Thanks for the info and video. I like your method.
I think of also adding some polyethylene or poly propylene loops before you add the dirt back around the foundation on the inside. I don’t know how you’re heating your place, but having an option of some ground source heat pumps for the future might be a good idea . two to three hundred dollars worth of tubing that may never be used isn’t that a bad investment should you need to use it in the future
nice work cowboys🙏💕
First time ! You look like doing this all your life long
Nice video. I'm building only a 2' high, 25' front retaining wall, and this was helpful. Thanks!
Excellent ❤
Great video my man! New subscriber!
Great job! were doing the same in the Philippines.
Weekend Part-time Busser at the local diner and full time Qualified and Certified Fabric Sofa Repairman here in my city, just wanted to say you did an excellent job, definitely up to my standards. Will just suggest maybe chamfering the corners and at the beginning, soaking down the substrate for the footing before the concrete was poured in. Will help prevent the ground from sucking all the moisture in that footing.
It's bad enough you doing this crocs, but using a rock as a hammer is just showing off. good work. I am a do a 2 foot tall by 8 in wide probably 40 ft long at my place, Ima mount a gate on top of it...all custom no less. great example and thank you...I think you can use this same concept to install a pool also.
Great job, going through same thing. No place to rent forms, no contractors available. PIA but I'll save some dough.
very nice video. gives me a lot of help. i am building a 28x28 garage under a ocean house on pilings. contractors here wants to build the retaining wall from wood vs the concrete footer and wall you did. so i am going thru the process to price out both ways and see which one is cheaper. a few questions: 1. threaded rod and pvc pipe diameter used? 2. my wall is only 3 feet high so i guess i should cut the 4x8 sheets down to 3x8 so can finish top surface? how do you decide the amount of rebar for footer, wall and slab? if this is just code, is there a good place to find this online? thanks again.
You mention that the wall could be pushed in by backfilling on one side, the old timers used a keyway the footing by just laying a 2x4 down on the wide side or even a 4x4 down the center after the footing was poured, the next day after the footer was set the keyway lumber was removed, so when the walls were poured the fresh concrete fills in the keyway and there was zero possibility of the wall moving. Are you going to fill the holes where the PVC pipes were with hydraulic cement? Using the hammer drill was pretty slick, good thinking.
I watched thousands of yards of walls poured that exact way. It's a great idea, and keeps retaining walls firmly on the footer. The pushing I have seen on back filling is actually the wall bowing in at the top. Concrete is flexible to a point, Though not much, over 20 feet it can bow in a couple inches before failure.
so what's done with the holes ?
That's also for waterproofing
Nice job I have in the trade for 48 years they do make a cardboard sleeve my be much cheaper than pipe but all in all nice job. You can prop for me any time add a little gerese to rods
Is there a concern to have a cold joint between the footing and stem wall? I was thinking water can seep into rebar if it cracks at the joint.
Great job !!! Need the same doing here in the UK . 6ft high x 11 ft length on 3 sides between £10, 000 -£13,000 I have been quoted ..so looking at if I'm up to it myself and looks straight forward but it's the what if ... if you don't mind saying what did it cost you to do ? Just interested if there is much difference from UK in price ..cheers Mike
Thanks for de video. I am going to make a wall like that this year. Your video helps me a lot. Kind regards from the Netherlands.
Nice work. Can I ask what form release you put on that OSB?
Me and my dad just started a build to. Real men build there own cave. Nice job looks great whole house
Man I love how you’re thinking outside the box but part of the benefits of a concrete wall is it’s a solid barrier, no holes in it!
That’s the benefit of an actual “snap tie” system.
Snap off your ties and no holes in your environmental barrier.
Snap ties are designed to be broken or twisted off after the pour.
If you’re building a home consider purchasing snap ties for this reason.
Yes, I agree. If it wasn't just a porch footer, I would have used snap ties. these above grade holes will be waterplugged for aesthetics. The snap tie system was just too much money for one job.
did you plug the holes where the plastic pipe came out ?
This section coild b water storage?
Hey i loved the video im doing exactly the same thing .i have a few questions what thickness of OSB did you use ? What diameter of threaded rod did you use and how did you determine your spacing ? Keep up the good work
I used 5/8ths. Because that's what I had on hand. 3/4 probably would've been better. Spacing was determined from what using wedges and snap ties require.
You should use icf forms. Hundred times easier and faster. But a very good job.
The whole house is icf.
Nice job. Looked like you vibrated a lot. Is there something you could have done to not have any bubbles? Different mix?
I wish I had a good answer for you. Maybe if I would have lubricated my forms, or maybe spent time tapping the forms. I just don't have a solid answer
Where did you buy the threaded rods with the square washers? and what length are they?
KL Jack. Threaded rod was 6 feet. Truss washers from same supplier.
I was thinking of doing something similar. Glad O found this video. Got a couple of questions. First of all, what about the holes from the pipe? Do you fill these later on? Secondly, is that vibrator an attachment to a drill or a dedicated vibrator? Thanks
I filled the holes with type s mortar. The dewalt is a concrete vibrator. Dedicated.
great idea! could you have used ICF blocks or are they too much money?
I actually had a bunch of 4 inch icf left over. I sold them. And regretted it. But no need for insulation on a porch footer. So... six in one I guess.
👍👍
Great job on everything!! Two questions about the footing you poured though. Why no keyway? Helps a lot with horizontal pressure from backfilling and also makes water intrusion harder. Second was the rebar just laying on the ground? I couldn't tell from video angle, but if its just on the dirt it wont help much!
Not criticism, just curious, video and job was great to watch
Thanks. The footer has 2 rebar run continuously and are suspended with tie wire off of the cross 2x4's. I did not key as there will be fill on both sides, and really doesn't need it for this application. I am not concerned with water intusion either as it is just a porch footer and does not expose any interior to risk of water.
I think you helped a lot of people with this bud! Great Job!. I read below you used 6 ft thd rod, so 2 ft length was enough to get the nuts and washers on? I might be using this instead of stap ties as well for a garage project.
I wish they were longer. I think if you used 2x3 for studs and 2x4 for walers, it would've been much easier. I struggled with some of the nuts.
Great video, looks really good. What are your thoughts on the Dewalt concrete vibrator? Would you get that one again if you had to do it all over again?
For small projects is great. I've been pleased with all my dewalt tools. They aren't the best of the best. But they fit a good quality to cost value that suits my needs. I have a Wacker Neuson consolidator with a 12 ft whip and 1 inch square pencil. That is a much better tool for the job but it's 110v and cumbersome. So for deeper and bigger pours I use that. For small stuff the dewalt is just fine.
Thank you for the reply, I've been back and forth on whether to buy it or not, nothing like talking to someone that actually uses it, thanks again.
@@andersonpropertymaintenanc952
Hey just wondering why you chose not to use any rebar going longways in your footing?
Think if you review the video you'll see two number four bars running in the footing
Won’t the pipe allow water to come through? Essentially making a bunch of little tunnels holes from one side of the wall to the other???
yes. But in this case, it does not matter, as this is just a porch footer. all holes got plugged with type s mortar as well.
Awesome idea with pvc and threaded rod. How would one permanently seal those holes?
That is probably the downfall if you're using this as a foundation with interior exposure. All of my above grade exterior holes have been plugged with a cement face product called water plug. It's not a perfect solution but it looks good
I honestly don’t think of it as the downside. Some of these “plug the crack” types of products are stronger than concrete. I am about to build ICF in south Florida, but stem wall and anything below grade cannot be ICF due to protection from termites. They suggest using CMU below the ICF, but I would much rather build a monolithic concrete structure - just like the one you built. I love your concept!
@@uticatechclub923 check out nadurra one product where it's foam on the inside but you use panels on the outside that you screw off after the concrete is poured so you end up with a product that is insulated on the inside but concrete on the outside
Having those holes in a basement would be bad, also having a hole every 2' in a line would weaken the wall. You can buy special ties that go in, or if you use rod just don't put the pvc in there and cut the rods off after. I think the proper ties are going to be cheaper.
👍👍👍
why threaded rods and pvc pipes are lost?....since you clearly recovered them?
This is true. But the pipes are essentially useless. I probably will save some threaded rod to use on other projects though.
Enjoyed the entire concrete wall build, fill, pour, skreed, teardown, and the final product. I'm going to use your method to make a thicker concrete wall which will ultimately be a retaining wall on the far side of a slab recently poured. Why did you drill the holes with the hammer drill? Was that to drill out the PVC tubes left inside the concrete wall or was it to just make the holes larger for a bolt that you'll drill through later? Your entire wall project turned out great! 👍🏽🤠 12/14/23
Thanks for the positivity. The only purpose of the drill was to drive the pipes out. Filed holes with hydraulic cement
It seems like concrete makes wood brittle. Are you sure about reusing this on your roof?
11:40 distances
What is your wall’s width?
I am assuming you mean the thickness. It is 8" thick. It is 20.5 feet long, and 12 feet deep. Thanks for watching!
Why no steel in the foundation?
2 number 5 bars in the footer. Hung from cross bucks. With wire
DID YOU PLUG THE HOLES KEEP THEM COMING YOUR NUMBERS ARE GOING TO GO THROUGH THE ROOF
I did not plug the ones below grade. The ones above grade will get water plug
Im setting cribbing in the basement to do this type pour first the footing then the stem wall anyone whos done this type work please comment
Just a suggestion. Where your wall pushed out in the corner instead of cutting the Styrofoam off why not just make the drywall thicker and save insulation value.
Good idea, but the push out is hard to see on camera. Its probably about 2 inches
Hope those crocs are are steel toed.
Steel just makes your toes cold.
So.... there's no rebar in the foundation horizontally- as soon as that settles, there's gonna be huge cracks up the walls, not to mention the L bend in the rebar is needed to give the vertical wall stability. You can't just stick a straight section of rebar into some wet concrete and expect it to have any kind of lasting stability-
I like some of the other stuff you did in the video, but, skipping proper rebar work is a MAJOR misstep and the people who don't know any better are gonna be replicating that. 🤯💀
Also, what did you do for expansion against the existing structure?
I like the pipe method and the removal after for reuse- I'll definitely use that one.
Going to unsubscribe because been over a month and no video
Bye! They'll miss you!😢😢😢
Sorry matt. I've been building my own house with just my dad. Completed a 200 ft road construction project. Kept machinery running. Moved 600 yds of fill. Etc etc etc. And tried to make family time. CZcams is low on my priority list. It's not like I'm making millions of dollars Spending hours upon hours recording and editing videos. When the building season shows down and I have free time, I'll edit and post more videos.
Subscribed, amazing l learnt a lot on this one🫡
What a waste of rebar in the footing. WOW!!!!
Code calls for it. So I use it.