Excellent video on how to get a machine that's been sitting around for years to be functional again. I'm working on one and I have one comment regarding your method for removing the stuck metal supports for the pinch rollers. I tried removing them using a heat gun and had very little luck (other than burning my fingers). What I found works is putting a little oil on the bearing top and a little WD40 and letting it sit for an hour. Believe it or not, both sides became loose and came off. Just a possible alternative to heating the bearing that I thought I'd pass on. I've gotten the unit to do everything now except the Fast Forward which seems to have an issue with the position of the right tension arm being just a little too high. Pushing it down just a tiny bit seems to provide enough output from the optical sensor to get the motor to run at full speed.
thank you thank you, after watching your video, I realized that I forgot to put the springs back on the pinch roller arms. I used a heat gun ti remove the gunk and that was perfect. Put a new belt on and was able to get the unit to spin in play and reverse. Now that I know what's missing, i'lltear it down again to get to those springs.
When the capstan assembly was out, did you notice how to loosen the tape guides slightly in order to rotate them 90 degrees or so? My deck has obvious tape wear pattern and want to turn the guides just a bit to new rounded metal. I am sending my heads out to JRF Magnetics for reconditioning, so I want to expose new tape guide smooth surface on the guides when the head block is reinstalled. Also, do the capstan spindles and flywheel assemblies simply push out of the bearings of the chassis? I am thinking that just behind the flywheels are the screws that secure the tape guides. Thanks - great video series!
@@BrianTotten-r8d I didn’t notice how to remove or reposition the tape guides but I would imagine they can be rotated as you’re wanting to do, yes the capstans will come out for lubrication. I would love to know the frequency response pre & post having those heads done, I’m sure that’s not a cheap process and I wonder if the difference would justify the cost? Ive never run across one of these decks (assuming you are using a quality, well cared for tape) that didn’t produce spot on audio recordings with clean heads that still have the azimuth screws factory sealed using healthy pressure rollers.
No question X-1000R & X-2000R are great machines. I have both and they sound marvelous.The DBX kicks a**. Back in the day there were recording studios that used X-2000R! Not sure exactly where in the chain they were located, but this is a fact. I've got six R2r decks, but nothing else can even come close to the performance I get out of the Studer A810. Calibration is accomplished digitally, via the LCD display and a keypad located behind the hinged lower section.. Every parameter you enter is adjustable in 256 steps, 256 steps being equal to the full rotation of a conventional pot! Furthermore the machine can store settings for 2 tape types. For instance you could store settings for NAB and CCIR eq's.
@@luvradios Well, now I've seen the entire vid. Gotta say terrific tips for working on a 1000R or 2000R. I own both and at least one needs belts, which I have! Thanx for the first rate instruction AND photo accompaniment!! I will refer back to this vid. Interesting aside: A810 is the only machine I have where you can FF through a 3600' tape, then fast wind (there are 4 fast wind speeds) all the way back and the counter is not off by even one second! In fact the tape will stop in the exact place from where it started. No joke! It always overshoots by a few seconds but it knows to slow fast wind forward to wherever it started from. I got it from Filmco, Canada in 2008 after they bought Studer's entire inventory when Studer moved out of North America. They sent me a fully tricked out deck- 4 speed capstan, tape scissors, mounted splicing block, installed Studer Vari-Speed, Butterfly heads, and not one scratch on it. V-Speed adjustment is done using a rotating 1000 step adjustable knob and each step is further divisible into 10 more steps! This allows for extremely precise and recallable matching of tape speeds between decks, or you can slow the deck down a little if you know your program is longer than your tape. Very handy as long as you write it down! Meters switchable between peak reading and PPM. Deck is completely modular and the easiest deck I have to work on. All of the cards push into place on the basis board, which is behind the hinged swing-up panel. There is even a linkage that you can drop into place that will hold the panel up. At one point I cracked the basis board (a large, very expensive board) while shoving in a card (amateur!), called Filmco and they sent me another one at no charge!
Excellent video on how to get a machine that's been sitting around for years to be functional again. I'm working on one and I have one comment regarding your method for removing the stuck metal supports for the pinch rollers. I tried removing them using a heat gun and had very little luck (other than burning my fingers). What I found works is putting a little oil on the bearing top and a little WD40 and letting it sit for an hour. Believe it or not, both sides became loose and came off. Just a possible alternative to heating the bearing that I thought I'd pass on. I've gotten the unit to do everything now except the Fast Forward which seems to have an issue with the position of the right tension arm being just a little too high. Pushing it down just a tiny bit seems to provide enough output from the optical sensor to get the motor to run at full speed.
WD40 worked for me too. Great Video thanks
@@koeskkoesk5114 Amazing what that WD40 can do
thank you thank you, after watching your video, I realized that I forgot to put the springs back on the pinch roller arms. I used a heat gun ti remove the gunk and that was perfect. Put a new belt on and was able to get the unit to spin in play and reverse. Now that I know what's missing, i'lltear it down again to get to those springs.
Random, thanks for checking out the video!
When the capstan assembly was out, did you notice how to loosen the tape guides slightly in order to rotate them 90 degrees or so? My deck has obvious tape wear pattern and want to turn the guides just a bit to new rounded metal. I am sending my heads out to JRF Magnetics for reconditioning, so I want to expose new tape guide smooth surface on the guides when the head block is reinstalled. Also, do the capstan spindles and flywheel assemblies simply push out of the bearings of the chassis? I am thinking that just behind the flywheels are the screws that secure the tape guides. Thanks - great video series!
@@BrianTotten-r8d I didn’t notice how to remove or reposition the tape guides but I would imagine they can be rotated as you’re wanting to do, yes the capstans will come out for lubrication. I would love to know the frequency response pre & post having those heads done, I’m sure that’s not a cheap process and I wonder if the difference would justify the cost? Ive never run across one of these decks (assuming you are using a quality, well cared for tape) that didn’t produce spot on audio recordings with clean heads that still have the azimuth screws factory sealed using healthy pressure rollers.
No question X-1000R & X-2000R are great machines. I have both and they sound marvelous.The DBX kicks a**. Back in the day there were recording studios that used X-2000R! Not sure exactly where in the chain they were located, but this is a fact. I've got six R2r decks, but nothing else can even come close to the performance I get out of the Studer A810. Calibration is accomplished digitally, via the LCD display and a keypad located behind the hinged lower section.. Every parameter you enter is adjustable in 256 steps, 256 steps being equal to the full rotation of a conventional pot! Furthermore the machine can store settings for 2 tape types. For instance you could store settings for NAB and CCIR eq's.
I've never had the pleasure of working on a Studer but I know their reputation and would love to use one some day.
@@luvradios Well, now I've seen the entire vid. Gotta say terrific tips for working on a 1000R or 2000R. I own both and at least one needs belts, which I have! Thanx for the first rate instruction AND photo accompaniment!! I will refer back to this vid.
Interesting aside:
A810 is the only machine I have where you can FF through a 3600' tape, then fast wind (there are 4 fast wind speeds) all the way back and the counter is not off by even one second! In fact the tape will stop in the exact place from where it started. No joke! It always overshoots by a few seconds but it knows to slow fast wind forward to wherever it started from. I got it from Filmco, Canada in 2008 after they bought Studer's entire inventory when Studer moved out of North America. They sent me a fully tricked out deck- 4 speed capstan, tape scissors, mounted splicing block, installed Studer Vari-Speed, Butterfly heads, and not one scratch on it. V-Speed adjustment is done using a rotating 1000 step adjustable knob and each step is further divisible into 10 more steps! This allows for extremely precise and recallable matching of tape speeds between decks, or you can slow the deck down a little if you know your program is longer than your tape. Very handy as long as you write it down! Meters switchable between peak reading and PPM. Deck is completely modular and the easiest deck I have to work on. All of the cards push into place on the basis board, which is behind the hinged swing-up panel. There is even a linkage that you can drop into place that will hold the panel up. At one point I cracked the basis board (a large, very expensive board) while shoving in a card (amateur!), called Filmco and they sent me another one at no charge!
How about a repair shop that be nice to know I got one that needs work
Harvey, do you live near the quad cities ,IA/IL border?
@@luvradios no I live in Dallas Texas
I would say ship it to me but that would be pricey I bet.
@@luvradios do you have a telephone number so we can talk easier
Harvey, email me at: luvradios@yahoo.com and I'll send you my number that way so my # is not posted publicly .
My X2000R motor is fried, can it be rebuilt?
Are you sure its the motor thats defective? In 40 years, I've never seen one of these motors fail.
What grease do you use for pinch roller assembly?
I assume you're talking about the spindle it rolls on? if so I use white lithium grease.
@@luvradios thank you for responding.. I'm referring to the greasing of points mentioned at the 19-minute point in video.
@@ChiefPMM , Yes, white lithium grease is what I used but I'm sure any type of quality mechanism lube would be fine.
круче LedZeppelin только LedZeppelin !