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Herb's Refurbishing Postwar Lionel 022 Remote Switch Tracks
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- čas přidán 20. 09. 2017
- I refurbish about 20-30 sets of these each year for friends, family, clubs, etc. I have been asked to post a video on how to do this before I am too old to remember my name. Well, this covers about 90% of what I do, but the other 10% takes eighty percent of the time. So, if you have any questions, you can shoot them to me here.
Fantastic Video! Have several old switches & saved a bunch of money working on them myself thanks to your instructions.
Thanks for the tip on the Evap-o-Rust. I'd have been worried about it attacking the bakelite, but now that I've seen you use it . . . ;-)
I moved the switch to another spot on layout. Seems to work better. I'll just live w/it. Thanks for your help.
Great video, lots of good information for restoring these switches.
I'll be waiting. Thanks!
Thanks for the information!
The drop bar (copper bar) doesn't drop down all the way when switching to side track. Everything is clean as a whistle.
Frog points will not go over all the way to left. Short about a 1/16th of an inch. Straight is fine.
What do you suggest next? Power on transformer on full power.
The drop bar (copper bar)--pinion doesn't drop down all the way.
Thanks H James. I will try that sometime when I get done doing taxes as a volunteer. Did you mean contact cleaner? Spray can? Brand? I did try alcohol w/a q tip.
I use CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner. I get it at Home Depot.
I have a left hand 022 switch. Everything works good EXCEPT the frog points do not go all the way over when switching from straight to the left side of the switch. It only misses by about a 1/16th of a inch. The train will go straight instead diverting to the left. I have cleaned everything. What do you suggest?
try squirting some electrical contract cleaner into the port where the solenoid moves back-and-forth in the motor. Sometimes that just gets gummed up over time. If you have already tried this, it may just be that the voltage needs adjusting. These were made to be run at 14 to 9 V AC. However I have to run mine at 16 V.
There was a small detached spring on the U-shaped bar when I disassembled my 022. Where does it go ?
That spring loops over that U-shaped piece with the smaller end braced against the body of the solenoid. If you hold the switch motor with the well of the plunger facing you, the spring mounts on the left side. It fits over the L-shaped end that inserts into the mounting hole on the body of the solenoid’s body. If you look at the video, it is displayed in place toward the end. It is hard to see, but it’s there. FYI, it is an IQ test on three dimensional thinking. However, it’s doable. I usually have to remount one or two a year. Good luck.
Just went through 4 switches, all 4 of them were broken at the spot you showed. Also had issues with contacts on the other side
I have never had an issue with an 022 that didn't involve at least that one joint. I attack it with a 30-40 pencil tip soldering iron and a medium size solder. And, when Lionel produced these switches, they ended up shipping them with a cold solder joint. So, they were doomed from the start. Anyway, onced fixed with a small wire inserted I have never had to fix that joint again. And, ours travel to shows, etc. So, they get abused. Good luck with them. I think those switches are great. Even when they come to me a rusted mess, I can still get them to operate. They are not pretty, but they function.
Enjoyed your video. I cleaned one of my switches and it works great. The second one was cleaned, but I could get no results. I have checked all connections and got continuity where its needed. However on the check between the center post and the tabs on the site of the coil there was nothing. One the working switch there was continuity between the center post and tabs on the coil. Continuity was conformed on the test between the tabs on the coil. Any suggestions??
May be a simple fix. It could be that one of the brush tabs has lifted. I can’t tell you why, but when one of the sliding brushes doesn’t make contact during the switch plate’s motion, it seems to break continuity. Do you have a small tool you could use to bend tabs on the slide contacts? Be careful. Once bent out of shape, you’re sorta skuud. I actually was thinking of doing a mini-vid demonstration of this fix, among others.
Thanks for the reply, funny thing happened, I was checking everything over for the umpteenth time and noticed or the underside turnout rail the metal strip solder connection was broken, I re-soldered it and the switch worked. Can't figure that one out the continuity check was the same??
Great job. I have problems with the sliding contacts in the motor going out of alignment or not making good contact. For the alignment there are very small bumps in the slider that hold the sliding contacts in the correct alignment. They sometimes break off and I know of no method to fix them and you cannot get the replacement part. Anyone have a suggestion?
H Allan: I see your comments on some of the Facebook sites. I appreciate your input. First, I have a small tool that I use to bend the contacts back into place. Believe it or not, I just figured out how to use it. It came with a set of tools for soldering. It looks like a slotted 1/8" wide and long handled screwdriver. I do it very carefully. I did this because I had a number of switch motors that worked one way. I checked the contacts with a feeler gauge and found they did not make contact. It took me a couple of tries, but I was able to bend the arms of the contact by approaching it one side at a time. I did a minor bend until I could connect. I found there was enough give and length to make it work.
As for the brush brush breaking off, I haven't hit this issue, but there is now an electronic glue available online (somewhere). That might work. I would love to know.
Jim
I bought a bunch of these turnouts and made the recommended repairs. Unfortunately, a year later they are not performing well and the fixed voltage plug isn't functioning anymore> Plan to pull them off the layout and see what the issue is.
What are they not doing?
@@h.jameshamill2982 fixed voltage not working. I unplugged all of them and they all work fine using track power.
Have you run an insulated alligator clip into the power port on the motors to see if they will operate? Sometimes the mechanics inside the plug get fouled. This is a way to check for continuity in the plug itself. Then squirt it with contact cleaner.
@@h.jameshamill2982 havent had time. Will look at them when I am on vacation.
I clean up the rails with a ScotchBrite pad and a small wire wheel on a Dremel tool after they leave the soak.
I tried the spray. Frog points will not go over all the way to left. Short about a 1/16th of an inch. Straight is fine.
What do you suggest next? Power on transformer on full power.
Hi: Frankly, it has me stumped, too. I'm trying to duplicate the issue with a set of my own. It might be the coil assembly for the plunger. I am going thru all my switches today (too much time on my hands right now) to see if I can find a match. More info to follow.
Jim H
Hi Again:
I encountered something. The pinion on the base of the lamp retainer had jumped a tooth on the rack that pushes the moving arm assembly. It caused the internal throw to be too tight and the external throw to be short 1/16". I suggest you check two switches to see if they are engaged the same.
Good news and bad news if that is the answer, because they are not easy to correct.
Jim H
Herb. When you are repairing the non de-railing feature using your tinned wire, any tips or tricks to soldering that on? struggling getting enough heat in there to get the wire in. would it be easier to do the rail first and then your non de-rail link? Any help would be appreciated
I have started to use a single strand out of twisted 16 gauge or a solid 22 gauge wire. It is easier to place and hold. I bend the wire and hold it in place with a small clamp. Sometimes I can hold it in place with tape. It depends on the size of the tab and the room available to place the wire on the track's tab. On occasion I have cleared a small amount of the plastic with an Xacto knife. And, BTW, it's still a pain. But, the wire is important. Once done with a good solder joint, it should hold for another 70 years.
I agree with Herb on the little wire bridge. I have adopted it in my repair procedure for 022 switches. Also, you should use a powerful soldering tool such as a Weller 100 watt soldering gun or an American Beauty 100 watt soldering iron. (Expensive but TOP quality!). Plenty of heat to avoid cold solder joints.
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Hi, I have a question. can it be used manually? no current? thanks and blessings
022s can use track supplied voltage. Albeit, this can make them appear sluggish. If you choose to switch them via manual operation, you can activate the switch by carefully turning the lamp. Another alternative is to use a 042 manual switch.
@@h.jameshamill2982 thank you very much for your information thank you and blessings have a nice día
What do you do if the copper contacts are bent up enough that they do not make contact? Is there a solution to get them to stay down?
I have a spring shaping tool which looks like a thin metal dowel with a slotted end. I use it to carefully bend the points back into shape, or make consistent contact. FYI, I find that raised contacts are the second most common problem in a 022 switch failure.
Hi H. James Hamill: I have a No. 5165 Tubular Switch 0-72 inch
When I turn he lantern the switch will not move. It has been working fine for years. This issue started today.
How can I fix this issue with out having to remove the switch from the layout.
I think the issue started after the locomotive was going the wrong direction and the switch did an auto move. (auto derailment)
Can you help? Thanks - Gary
trainroomgary , I hate to say this but the first thing I would do is remove it. My sense is that the swivel driving pin or post under the common swivel rail is jammed. It would cause the switch to "freeze" in place. You can check this out by looking for the brass pin sticking out of the black rail. If it's not there, you've found the problem. If it is in that port, I would recommend looking at the motor. In either case, you might consider pulling it from the layout for maintenance. FYI, this is why I use all postwar switches. They just seem to be trouble free for decades.
Herb is right. There is no good way to service these without removing the switch. Your gear or the piston probably needs attention. You can also tune up the motor as shown in the video while you have the switch apart.
Everybody shows how to repair the switches but nobody shows how to rewire a two switch controller. Can anyone help?
Are you writing about a 1121C Controller? I rewired a bunch of them this year. If you have a pic, sent it to me at hjames.hamill@gmail.com