Thks for the video. Imho I prefer to go with the old way knocking at each sliding point from the left and adjuting the screw on the go because with this tool all the keys must be at perfect level from the piano and to each others. The lock rail at the contact jauge point must be also perfectly straight and parallel to the action and to the key bed. Too much variables that can give you false reading.
Thanks for your comment. I am only looking for movement or no movement from the indicator. Key level and tool adjustment don't affect this. Did the balancerail move or not? For that the dial indicator is very sensitive. Either approach, tool or knock, will be challenged by coarse thread of glidebolt and excessive friction from return spring, if you don't take it out. A hazard of the knocking method can be cantilevering the backrail and if that produces no symptom in our validation, we can chase our tail setting up on the bench thinking the backrail is on the keybed. A hard question to fully answer is if there are no symptoms, does it matter. Anyway, I've found the Bedding Tool helpful in assuring that all rails are on the keybed.
I totally agree - a terrible key covering job. Had to choose my battlegrounds and the other improvements needed were very expensive. And the solution, keytop-wise, to these keys also very expensive as so much material was crudely removed... Thanks for pointing out this symptom of challenges we face as piano technicians.
Thks for the video. Imho I prefer to go with the old way knocking at each sliding point from the left and adjuting the screw on the go because with this tool all the keys must be at perfect level from the piano and to each others. The lock rail at the contact jauge point must be also perfectly straight and parallel to the action and to the key bed. Too much variables that can give you false reading.
Thanks for your comment. I am only looking for movement or no movement from the indicator. Key level and tool adjustment don't affect this. Did the balancerail move or not? For that the dial indicator is very sensitive. Either approach, tool or knock, will be challenged by coarse thread of glidebolt and excessive friction from return spring, if you don't take it out. A hazard of the knocking method can be cantilevering the backrail and if that produces no symptom in our validation, we can chase our tail setting up on the bench thinking the backrail is on the keybed. A hard question to fully answer is if there are no symptoms, does it matter. Anyway, I've found the Bedding Tool helpful in assuring that all rails are on the keybed.
Hate to see table saw cuts on keys
I totally agree - a terrible key covering job. Had to choose my battlegrounds and the other improvements needed were very expensive. And the solution, keytop-wise, to these keys also very expensive as so much material was crudely removed... Thanks for pointing out this symptom of challenges we face as piano technicians.