Most door speakers are designed to be infinite baffle, dont use these unless the speaker specifically requires a small sealed enclosure (again, most dont), i used to back when i just listened to ppl on the internet, when i actually started learning, i cut the backs out of mine, and it improved the sound. Seal and deaden your doors, and make sure the mounting surface has no flex in it. Im not saying theres never a time they can help you accomplish a goal, just 90% of the time they dont.
Also i used to be a DD dealer, their american made subs are good but over priced a touch, their bigger amps are alright but a touch over priced, the rest of their products id never consider.
I'm thinking about trying DD!! You definitely made me a believer on most of the subs on your channel that caught my interest. But that Kicker Q dog is still my favorite. Thanks for the reviews!❤
Factsssss! I bought those foam pods and the foam around the front of the speaker to create a seal and let the sound go out the door. The sounds is full and punchy. If you don’t that is why most shops have your highs crossover over at 250hz because they don’t sound good if they’re not sealed. Also NVX has a foam kit on Amazon for $20. I got the same ones on this video at autozone $10
@@leonsam12 it’s sad that most shops do a shitty job, I myself have paid thousands for a supposed high end system only to have to re do it myself. Speakers had 2 screws, amps ground was not sanded down my amps kept getting hot and cutting off I found so many mistakes and realized my mids had no lows and came to find out the shops when they free air them they cut off at 250hz on the door speakers because they sound nasty. The bass amps were tuned by ear and my stereo was clipping at volume 20/40 so I know most shops have zero idea what they’re doing
Yep you’ve convinced me to cross over to dd I’m from Baton Rouge and we use heavy bass but I had a problem with my 03 Chevy and went and got a 2020 Colorado so I can’t put solobarics in there so I gotta go with the next best thing and that’s dd 2508g on a 2500 dd amp
Dynamat makes all the difference in the world. I love the fact that I can slam my subs in the trunk with 2 layers of dynamat and that rumble stays inside the vehicle. Also it's a lexus which is built like a tank with 0 Road noise.......
For my build I’m going to kill mat around and inside my door. Not for my tweeter since it goes in my a pillar. And kill mat around the circumference of the 6.5. My brother has E series 75w rms 6.5 door speakers and the tweaters and we break necks with them. And his 1200 w sub with 0 gauge ofc. So I kinda have a good idea of what I want. I have a crv exl 2013 as my daily which I’m gonna put audio in. Thanks for the vid I want to hear them
Very nice work that you have done but if you decide to go active you won't need the crossovers but a 12 to 14 channel dsp to go active it that's your future plans great job and giving information to the people keep it up and God bless you
Oh man thanks for the info. Can maybe make video on how you would wire a system with an odd number of speakers . Thank you very much love the channel and learning a lot.
Great video. Love the channel. I have limited air space for an under-the-seat truck box. Would I be better off with some good 8's or lesser 10's? Seems like the airspace fits 2 good 8's better, but you always preach cone area.... Thank you sir!
I need your help. I have a 2019 RAM 1500 with the Alpine speaker package. I did not want to replace the factory speakers, but did think of replacing the factory amp with a Kicker CX360.4 4-Channel Amplifier for sound and loudness. I added a Skar down fire RAM sealed enclosure, with dual Kicker Comp R 4 Ohm, Kicker CX 1200.1. Good bass inside, but it is not loud. I see everyone with the DS18 6.5, or Skar 6.5 speakers, with Horns and they are loud. I wanted to stay with all Kicker. What do you think would be louder? Dual Kicker ST ST7MR8 Midrange 8 Ohm with Kicker ST4TW 1.5" Tweeter 4 Ohm. Dual Kicker KMS67 4Ω Tower System? Also, I wanted to add these to my enclosure, but facing forward.
What size amp did u run on your door speakers also did u run them passive or on a crossover also what about your 3 3.5s in the dash thanks how much power is each door speaker and dash speaker receiving
Doesn't this remove all bass from the midbass drivers, basically making them punchy midrange speakers with nothing below about 80hz? I would also see it causing problems on anything with a vented voice coil. Most people suggest opening a hole in the back of the boom mat, or only using them around the top half of the speaker to protect from water intrusion.
How would you compare the DD A series 6.5 to Focal Slat Fiber PS165SF? I can't find a dealer in my area to hear the DD's in person, but I'm leaning toward DD
Let me ask you this though like you know how you need a speaker box for the sub to get the proper amount of air and response out of the speaker does it matter for the mid base or just encapsulating it. Or does it need a certain amount of airspace similar to the sub because my car I would physically have to cut a hole in the door for that to work but if it's worth it for the sound quality I'd encapsulate the speaker but just want to be sure
The inner section of the door is a large removable molded plastic piece that holds the window regulator. It really helps manufacturing and the plastic tends to be stiffer than if it were sheet metal.
Is there a specific reason you mounted the tweeters so low in the door? I've always found that a higher mounting location brings the stage higher. Maybe the existing 3 dash speakers already gives you good stage height so you don't need the tweeters up high? I'm just curious of your thought process on the tweeter location.
@@julesbruchez-outperformtra2020 No, thats not true. I assume you mean the mid range driver and not sub. Anyway, due to the way human ears are arranged, left to right and not up and down, humans can hear small differences in location left to right. We can not really tell differences in the vertical direction. This is why you see all home stereo speakers mount all the drivers vertically. You don't see the tweeter off to the left or right of the mid. In a car application it is quite normal to mount tweeters higher than the mid. Vehicle applications can be quite limited as far as mounting options, but the small size of a tweeter does make it easier to mount higher, say in the lower part of the A pillar. This is super common in competition vehicles where SQ is most important. Even factory speaker locations may have a mid in the door and a tweeter in the upper dash or A pillar area. Since we tend to localize high frequencies the most, mounting the tweeter higher can create the impression of the whole soundstage being higher. If you have an active setup on the mid and tweet you can compensate for any difference in mounting distance through time alignment. If its a passive setup then you might want to physically try and mount the tweeter higher, but at a similar listening distance as the mid. Looking at MB's door, it looks like the tweeters could have gone much higher in the door panel. I'm just curious if he tried several locations and thought they sounded best right above the mid. IDK, this is why I was asking. I assumed he would go higher and was surprised by his choice.
@@JasonWW2000 yes I meant mid. I was always taught and read multiple times that the main tweeter goes as close as it can to the mid and the secondary tweeter is mounter high. There actually is video about 5 years back with Soundman explaining it. Now why you said does make sense. My tweeter is mounted high in my door away from the driver. So I don’t even follow my own advice
@@julesbruchez-outperformtra2020 Having a secondary tweeter seems quite uncommon and maybe redundant. I used to go to a lot of IASCA shows in the 90's and listened to many top caliber vehicles. I actually don't remember anyone ever using a twin tweeter setup mounted far apart. I won't say it doesn't work or that it will sound bad, but I am skeptical. I'd need to hear it first hand. I do know that a secondary tweeter is not needed. You can get amazing height and staging with a single tweeter per side.
@@JasonWW2000 looking at home speakers you do actually see quite a few with tweeters that are offset horizontally. Studio monitors and the overnight sensations are the speakers that come to mind with that design. Also, in home speakers you want the tweeter placed as close as possible to the mid/woofer in order to avoid comb filtering around the crossover point. Cars are a bit different, but having the tweeter close to the mid/woofer is definitely the best option if possible. And the A series tweeter has a wide enough dispersion pattern that it still sounds great off axis
I put a DD system in my 2005 Mustang and it sounds amazing!!! Love DD
Most door speakers are designed to be infinite baffle, dont use these unless the speaker specifically requires a small sealed enclosure (again, most dont), i used to back when i just listened to ppl on the internet, when i actually started learning, i cut the backs out of mine, and it improved the sound. Seal and deaden your doors, and make sure the mounting surface has no flex in it. Im not saying theres never a time they can help you accomplish a goal, just 90% of the time they dont.
Also i used to be a DD dealer, their american made subs are good but over priced a touch, their bigger amps are alright but a touch over priced, the rest of their products id never consider.
Yep. Cut the back out so the speaker can breathe. Most car speakers suffer in pods
I'm thinking about trying DD!! You definitely made me a believer on most of the subs on your channel that caught my interest. But that Kicker Q dog is still my favorite. Thanks for the reviews!❤
Kicker is not even in the same class as DD mid to higher end line.
Man that truck sounded great and with the upgrades man I know it's going to sound even more amazing
Love your channel i remember when other people gave you crap i strongly agree with you r truly facts
That DD gotcha hooked. I love mine.
I've tried that boom mat before but I experienced loss of midbass in my installation
Factsssss! I bought those foam pods and the foam around the front of the speaker to create a seal and let the sound go out the door. The sounds is full and punchy. If you don’t that is why most shops have your highs crossover over at 250hz because they don’t sound good if they’re not sealed. Also NVX has a foam kit on Amazon for $20. I got the same ones on this video at autozone $10
Yup especially old school mb quart speakers, they never sounded good freeair in a door
@@leonsam12 it’s sad that most shops do a shitty job, I myself have paid thousands for a supposed high end system only to have to re do it myself. Speakers had 2 screws, amps ground was not sanded down my amps kept getting hot and cutting off I found so many mistakes and realized my mids had no lows and came to find out the shops when they free air them they cut off at 250hz on the door speakers because they sound nasty. The bass amps were tuned by ear and my stereo was clipping at volume 20/40 so I know most shops have zero idea what they’re doing
@@itsjorgieeSF Yep,which I only pay for batteries, sub boxes, deck work, head unit install, big 3 and alt. (Foundation Work)
Brotha MB, you must be in DD heaven. I plan to similar with the Kappa series. Great tech advice👍
Yep you’ve convinced me to cross over to dd I’m from Baton Rouge and we use heavy bass but I had a problem with my 03 Chevy and went and got a 2020 Colorado so I can’t put solobarics in there so I gotta go with the next best thing and that’s dd 2508g on a 2500 dd amp
Setup looking good, Let’s hear them puppies working volume high 👍🏻
Dynamat makes all the difference in the world. I love the fact that I can slam my subs in the trunk with 2 layers of dynamat and that rumble stays inside the vehicle. Also it's a lexus which is built like a tank with 0 Road noise.......
Lol Nice answer!!!
Thanks for saving me some $$ maybe I’ll stick with my 4.ch and passives with that being said!! 🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
That stinger is the first android headunit in my opinion that got it right now to afford it lol COVID broke
I’m putting Audio Dynamics in my truck but those DD Audio sound good too
For my build I’m going to kill mat around and inside my door. Not for my tweeter since it goes in my a pillar. And kill mat around the circumference of the 6.5. My brother has E series 75w rms 6.5 door speakers and the tweaters and we break necks with them. And his 1200 w sub with 0 gauge ofc. So I kinda have a good idea of what I want. I have a crv exl 2013 as my daily which I’m gonna put audio in. Thanks for the vid I want to hear them
In my experience that's not enough air volume, the speaker can't breath. Works better if you have a hole in the baffle.
Very nice work that you have done but if you decide to go active you won't need the crossovers but a 12 to 14 channel dsp to go active it that's your future plans great job and giving information to the people keep it up and God bless you
Oh man thanks for the info. Can maybe make video on how you would wire a system with an odd number of speakers . Thank you very much love the channel and learning a lot.
Is this for mid bass or mid range?
Great video. Love the channel. I have limited air space for an under-the-seat truck box. Would I be better off with some good 8's or lesser 10's? Seems like the airspace fits 2 good 8's better, but you always preach cone area.... Thank you sir!
Nice My-G 👍🏾👍🏾💥💥💯
we use to use hot glue to seal them up
I need your help. I have a 2019 RAM 1500 with the Alpine speaker package. I did not want to replace the factory speakers, but did think of replacing the factory amp with a Kicker CX360.4 4-Channel Amplifier for sound and loudness.
I added a Skar down fire RAM sealed enclosure, with dual Kicker Comp R 4 Ohm, Kicker CX 1200.1. Good bass inside, but it is not loud. I see everyone with the DS18 6.5, or Skar 6.5 speakers, with Horns and they are loud. I wanted to stay with all Kicker.
What do you think would be louder?
Dual Kicker ST ST7MR8 Midrange 8 Ohm with Kicker ST4TW 1.5" Tweeter 4 Ohm.
Dual Kicker KMS67 4Ω Tower System?
Also, I wanted to add these to my enclosure, but facing forward.
What speakers would you recommend for the ss4.500 6.5 /6.9’s
I’m saying to myself he looks familiar. 🤔 Did you use to do hotshot?
What size amp did u run on your door speakers also did u run them passive or on a crossover also what about your 3 3.5s in the dash thanks how much power is each door speaker and dash speaker receiving
Doesn't this remove all bass from the midbass drivers, basically making them punchy midrange speakers with nothing below about 80hz? I would also see it causing problems on anything with a vented voice coil. Most people suggest opening a hole in the back of the boom mat, or only using them around the top half of the speaker to protect from water intrusion.
How would you compare the DD A series 6.5 to Focal Slat Fiber PS165SF? I can't find a dealer in my area to hear the DD's in person, but I'm leaning toward DD
If I’m going to them in a pod. How air space is required
I got a shirt like that. It's a comfortable shirt. Got it at JC Pennies.
Let me ask you this though like you know how you need a speaker box for the sub to get the proper amount of air and response out of the speaker does it matter for the mid base or just encapsulating it. Or does it need a certain amount of airspace similar to the sub because my car I would physically have to cut a hole in the door for that to work but if it's worth it for the sound quality I'd encapsulate the speaker but just want to be sure
Nice my brother!!
Thats a nice ram right there
Boss this material behind the magnet is good or loose some midbass tones??
Let’s go OG!!!
Nice !
Isn’t the tweeter supposed to be placed higher in the front?
I am not sure if I missed the video, but I was wondering will you do a video on how to tune a DSP at some point? :)
Yeah Buddy
💯
What you doing with your old gear. For sale? Mbenclosure
I'm tripping out on how that door skin looks underneath the door panel on that dodge truck.
The inner section of the door is a large removable molded plastic piece that holds the window regulator. It really helps manufacturing and the plastic tends to be stiffer than if it were sheet metal.
Is there a specific reason you mounted the tweeters so low in the door? I've always found that a higher mounting location brings the stage higher. Maybe the existing 3 dash speakers already gives you good stage height so you don't need the tweeters up high?
I'm just curious of your thought process on the tweeter location.
Tweeters are supposed to mounted as close as they can to the subs
@@julesbruchez-outperformtra2020 No, thats not true. I assume you mean the mid range driver and not sub. Anyway, due to the way human ears are arranged, left to right and not up and down, humans can hear small differences in location left to right. We can not really tell differences in the vertical direction. This is why you see all home stereo speakers mount all the drivers vertically. You don't see the tweeter off to the left or right of the mid. In a car application it is quite normal to mount tweeters higher than the mid. Vehicle applications can be quite limited as far as mounting options, but the small size of a tweeter does make it easier to mount higher, say in the lower part of the A pillar. This is super common in competition vehicles where SQ is most important. Even factory speaker locations may have a mid in the door and a tweeter in the upper dash or A pillar area. Since we tend to localize high frequencies the most, mounting the tweeter higher can create the impression of the whole soundstage being higher. If you have an active setup on the mid and tweet you can compensate for any difference in mounting distance through time alignment. If its a passive setup then you might want to physically try and mount the tweeter higher, but at a similar listening distance as the mid.
Looking at MB's door, it looks like the tweeters could have gone much higher in the door panel. I'm just curious if he tried several locations and thought they sounded best right above the mid. IDK, this is why I was asking. I assumed he would go higher and was surprised by his choice.
@@JasonWW2000 yes I meant mid. I was always taught and read multiple times that the main tweeter goes as close as it can to the mid and the secondary tweeter is mounter high. There actually is video about 5 years back with Soundman explaining it. Now why you said does make sense. My tweeter is mounted high in my door away from the driver. So I don’t even follow my own advice
@@julesbruchez-outperformtra2020 Having a secondary tweeter seems quite uncommon and maybe redundant. I used to go to a lot of IASCA shows in the 90's and listened to many top caliber vehicles. I actually don't remember anyone ever using a twin tweeter setup mounted far apart. I won't say it doesn't work or that it will sound bad, but I am skeptical. I'd need to hear it first hand. I do know that a secondary tweeter is not needed. You can get amazing height and staging with a single tweeter per side.
@@JasonWW2000 looking at home speakers you do actually see quite a few with tweeters that are offset horizontally. Studio monitors and the overnight sensations are the speakers that come to mind with that design.
Also, in home speakers you want the tweeter placed as close as possible to the mid/woofer in order to avoid comb filtering around the crossover point. Cars are a bit different, but having the tweeter close to the mid/woofer is definitely the best option if possible. And the A series tweeter has a wide enough dispersion pattern that it still sounds great off axis
It’s the dd channel
👍🏾👏🏾🙏🏾
Door speakers are designed to work in doors. These cups are just like putting a sub in a too small sealed box. Just don't.
I've got those off of eBay
Where you located at. I need your services
I going change from kicker l7 15 to two db 15 g2 or go i have extra cab s10
How much would cost for you build one or sell make for it
Need box for 2 8”s
Buy a skar prefab
those are really bad for the speaker - let the speaker breath into the space
Not needed