Sta-Rite Motor and Pump Seal Replacement: How to change a Motor and Pump Seal on Dura-Glas Pool Pump
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Sta-Rite Dura-Glas and Max-E-Glas Pool Pump Motor Replacement and pump seal installation. Century motor replacement wiring and part numbers for seals on a Sta-rite Pool Pump. Full on the job tutorial from start to finish. Come join Pool Elementary and Subscribe!
Need a Pump Seal? here's a link.
US Pump seal PS-200 amzn.to/3CCyEYf
Need a 1Hp replacement motor? here's a link.
Century 1Hp pool motor SQ1102 amzn.to/3fOoMB6
Very complete. Always had good camera angles to see everything that was being done. Good advice along the way. I learned several simple, but key items that made may efforts successful. The only thing I found different was that I was able to fit the 7/16 inch wrench behind the centrifugal switch, without removing the "white V-shaped" switch. Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much for making this video, following it exactly has helped me twice now......a little advice for everyone that's using this as a guide.....save it to a play list, you will need it MUCH sooner than you hope, these motors typically don't last long even when installed correctly. This is by far the best instructional video for this exact pump motor replacement.
It took me about six or seven videos to find my exact situation and your video is nothing short of perfection. Thank you.!!
Thanks for watching and the great comment!
Those were the best pumps
Ever made i bought two
Of them still use them today
Thanks so much for this video. I was losing about a half inch of water a day. I just followed the procedure step by step to replace my seals and rings and it worked perfectly and saved me hundreds of dollars. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Jerry!
I found the hard way that tapping the clamp with a rubber mallet as you tighten finally sealed the unit after numerous tries. Wish I had seen your comment about tapping the clamp before hand. Thanks for just a great video!
From one pool tech to another, thanks for the tip about tapping the ring clamp to make tightening it easier.
Thanks for watching Mark
Great video, and VERY helpful! I ended up having to use the butt end of a 3/8" ratchet between the motor housing and the centrifugal spring mechanism on the shaft (mine add a screw in the shaft, not a 7/16" squared off shaft grabbing point) at the rear of the motor in order to get the impeller off. It was a pain and was getting stressful, as I was trying a number of things before I determined that a firm, metal ratchet handle end would fit just right between a recessed area of the motor and the spring mechanism. Everything else went exactly as you described - thank you!
Thank you
Good job. Thank you, Sir!
Thanks for watching !
Tapping the ring clamp to make tightening it easier is a good tip. I have used pool lube around the plates where the ring seats. Also allows for a nice tight squeeze.
I have watched your video multiple times over the past few years, and I just want to say thank you for sharing it! I had a really bad leak coming from the connection between the motor and housing, and it is now dry as a bone. The key was putting in the silicone behind the main oring gasket, which did keep it from falling out. The Century motors are a little different now with no switch, but I can tell you this video is a great tutorial on how to replace everything you need for a StaRite Dura Glass 2!
Thanks for the great comment 👍
Thanks for that heads-up, I about to unbox my new Century and I would've been surprised and confused.
Thank you so much!!!!! It was so helpful
Thanks for watching Ania!
note- on my previous comment I had installed a new diffuser and pump wheel and tried to center the pump in the diffuser when i installed it.
Is the cone part necessary? I accidentally broke the cone piece off but some of it is still left in there. The seal is good but now the cone part of the j3-2 is missing. Is it necessary to replace it or am I ok leaving it? Will it hamper performance?
Honestly I have had broken ones to and gone without replacing it when I was on out of town jobs and didn't have the replacement parts and it's been years with no leaks and the pump seemed to still worked sufficiently. You can try it and if it doesn't work for you you can always order the replacement parts.
Thanks for the great video... I have a Sta-Rite P2R pump that developed a vigorous spray coming from a several inch section under the ring clamp. Water begins dripping almost immediately when the pump is turned on, and turns into a hard spray as the pressure builds. I replaced the seal plate o-ring, cleaned the seal surface (both sides) and the channel for the o-ring, and lubed the o-ring with silicone plumber's grease. I also cleaned and lightly greased the inner side of the lock-ring clamp to reduce friction and got it pretty tight on there. Unfortunately there was absolutely no change in the force of water spraying out. Could it be something besides the o-ring and clamp?
After doing a good inspection of making sure there isn't a fracture or a crack in the actual area of where the waters coming from I have actually had to attempt getting the oring to seal on some of them up to four times myself I just couldn't get everything to line up so I think I actually siliconed the o-ring into place because by the time I wiggled the motor back in it kept moving out of place. Very annoying but four times and it didn't leak. Not my favorite feature of these pumps. Thanks for watching and hope it decides to seal up for you. Also make sure to tap that clamp why you tighten it.
@@Poolelementary Thanks very much -- I didn't see the tapping trick until after my failed effort, but I'll definitely try more silcone, re-seating everything, and lots of tapping.
I've heard a number of times to "not touch the ceramic seal surface with your fingers" when installing, it will cause the seal to fail. I noticed you didn't seem too overly concerned about that and did not mention it during your excellent tutorial. Is touching the seal surface a real concern or is that just a myth? Of course I do understand that the seal must not be contaminated with grime, but will touching it with clean hands/fingers shorten the life or otherwise ruin the seal?
Thank you for the excellent video. I have successfully replaced a seal before, but the tapping of the lock ring clamp with the screwdriver handle is a tip I did not know and I will use the next time.
Thanks for watching Floyd and yes you do want to avoid touching the ceramic but if I do I will make sure to wipe it clean with a paper towel. Latex gloves eliminate any chances of leaving oils on the ceramic seal. My bad for not making this clearer.
I replaced everything and it started right up with no ,waking. After about a minute it started to smoke a little bit and smelled burnt. Not from the pump motor area but under where it was previously leaking water. Is it possible the impeller was put on too tight?
You mentioned applying silicone to the Seal Plate O Ring. Do you mean the same type of silicone use in bathrooms for caulking? Or is there another type of silicone that needs to be used? Usually I use O ring lubricant (Magic Lube), but from what I understand in your video, O ring lubricant might not adhere as well as silicone.
I normally only apply o-ring lubricant to the seal plate o-ring to help it from drying out but if your having troubles with the seal plate oring staying in place while you line up your pump to get the bolts back in I sometimes will use some 100% silicone with a caulking gun and apply it to the oring to help make it sticky enough to stay in place until I can get my bolts back in and tightened.
I have a Max E Glas with a diffuser that looks just like this one. I have a salt water pool and the brass bushing in the diffuser is pitting badly and quickly . ( less then 6 months) . do you know of any better bushings/ repair ?
I don't know of any better parts or repair you could of done. To prevent the pitting it comes down to bonding all your pool equipment, using a salt water scale inhibitor and making sure the PH is good around 7.5
Great video BTW, can you tell me if the shaft plate O ring on the pump you serviced has a square cut? I have a similar pump, but once I removed the seal somehow is now longer and I’m having a hard time trying to get the correct part to finish this project. Thank you
V nice video. My pool pump is 1997 built. I am replacing the motor and have ordered it. I have a feeling the seal kit is for pumps after 1998. Will that be a problem ??
I had to empty the basket under the dome, but I can’t get the dome lid back on. I have plugs in the skimmer and the output (idk the term for that). There is a trickle of water still getting through, but what in the world do I need to do to get that thing back on?
The pump lid should twist or lock back in to place even if you have to fight some water back flow. I'm not sure exactly what is going on with out being there but hope you get it figured out. Sorry
Very helpful video, what kit did you get?
What is the model number for the shaft seal you used? PS 100, 200, or 201?
Hi Michael in the video I used a PS-200 which normally fits your Dura Glas pumps ( PE, PEA, P2R, and P2RA) Hope this helps.
Is the seal insert absolutely necessary to replace? I have a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas pump assembly which is post 1998 ..... I needed to replace the faceplate that attaches to the motor. My old one didn't have the insert and the replacement did. Can I just do away with the copper insert? I have to change the shaft seal because I have a leak. I already replaced the diffuser o-ring and faceplate o-ring and that didn't stop the leaking so the shaft seal is the only thing left to replace. Thanks for you guidance! In these Texas temps this summer, I need to get my pool back to normal.
What is the HP of that motor?
The motor we installed in this video was a Century SQ 1102 motor with 1 HP.
@@Poolelementary 👍
After seal replacement is it supposed to seal 100%. I don't see water dripping, but if I feel with my hand after it runs for over 15 minutes I can feel some water seeping.
There should be zero water. If everything was installed right then you might have gotten a bad pump seal it's rare but does happen. Also sometimes silicone around the rubber bushing that pushes into the motor plate side can help with a small seep issue
@@Poolelementary It was a slight weep from the area with the large clamp. A few more turns and all is dry. Thank you for your input.
Glad to hear it was an easy fix Sebastian.
@@Poolelementary Just an update. The area around the large clamp would still weep after about 2 hours of running. I ended up buying an OEM gasket which was squared off and thicker instead of rounded. This finally resolved the issue and I don’t even have to tighten the clamp down as much.
Nice, awesome update 👍
hi location po sir