Thank you for this series! I have an older (late 80s early 90s?) Mini Max C30 that I have torn down and am currently restoring. Luckily I have both the original instruction and parts manuals but your series has shined light on questions I had that the manuals weren't very clear in explaining. THANK YOU and THANK YOU!!
Thank you for making these videos and sharing the details of your machine. Much like you, I am a serious hobbyists, working out of a two car garage. I will retire 12/31/2021. I’m looking at combo machines due to my limited space. I’ve primary been looking at FELDER, however I’m considering all the options. I look forward to watching your videos to learn more about mini max machines. It’s funny, I work about one mile from Mini Max here in Austin Texas. They don’t give tours of the facility.
Hi Peter. Nice introduction to the CU300. I own CU300 Smart.. The main difference between Classic and Smart is, that Smart offers Shaper spindle to tilt up to 45 degrees. Otherwise is more or less the same. Cheers.
Really great explained Sir. Im about to get a new combination machine... and deciding between FELDER(HAMMER LINE) or minimax. I really really starting to like minimax more. Subscribe to your channel
Hi Peter. You have provided an excellent review of the MiniMax CU300 five function combination machine. Would you be so kind to provide your viewers an introduction of the MinMax MM16 BandSaw. I am considering a purchase of this Italian Made Bandsaw shortly.
An excellent into, Peter. You gave us the voltage, but what is the amperage for the circuit? I'm considering upgrading from a Delta Unisaw to a Felder 500 or 700 series combo machine, but I'm also giving the MiniMax a second look thanks in large part to your video series.
Do you know what diameter ducting will fit the dust collector output for the machine? I have the minimax cu 300 smart. Built 2010. Measurements seem a bit odd at about 115mm. Is yours the same?
115mm sounds like 4.5" outer diameter, which suggests 5" aluminium flexible ducts should fit nicely. Pretty standard for domestic chimneys and a/c ducts. Use a hose clamp though, prevents the duct from flying off and leaving a mess of wood chips on the shop floor 😂 (I've never used this particular machine, just an educated guess)
David, it sounds like your dust ports are the same size as mine. I have a 5" flex hose running to the machine that I switch from station to station as needed. At the end of the hose, I have a 5" to 120mm adapter. The adapter fits on snuggly enough to stay in place, but loosely enough to slip on and off easily. I got mine from Oneida. I just checked, and they still sell them. Look under 'Miscellaneous Parts'. -- Peter
Robert Romanin Well, I've only used a CU 300 in this workshop, so it's not like I have experience with different sized shops that would lead me to have a well formed opinion on the subject. My shop is 20' x 24' on the outside, and it has two support pillars that sort of divide the space into two 12' x 20' bays. When I rip, it's in the 20' direction, and without opening the garage door, I can rip an 8' board with a few inches to spare. To plane or joint that 8' board, I have to move the machine a few inches. When I crosscut, the board runs in the 24' direction, and I can cut and inch off the end of 16' long board if I have to. But sometimes to crosscut a sheet of plywood I have to rotate the machine 90 degrees, because the support pillars are in the way. So based on my experience, I think a 24' x 24' shop without support pillars or other obstructions would be a good size for a shop with a CU 300. Of course bigger is always better if you can afford it.
@@sunnybeeches8534 Great answer....exactly what I was looking for. Such a great machine but such limited "useful" information on it. Crazy in the year 2021
That's just a run of the mill bench-top drill press. Manufacturer is AMT. Origin is Taiwan. It's about 25 years old. I'm not sure what makes it strange to you. It's got a table and fence that I attached to the stock table. Also my chop saw lumber support and fence is kind of built around the base of the drill press, giving the area double duty.
Nice, and yes, strange to some is "normal" to others, how else would you explain America's aversion to tea? ;) Thanks for the info Peter, much appreciated.
Erwin , the nominal dimensions of my shop are 20' (in the direction the slider moves) x 24'. The walls are framed with 2x6's, so the interior dimensions would be about a foot less in both directions. The shop is not used as a two car garage, but it's about the size of one. I find that I can process 8' lumber in the direction of the slider (e.g. rip or plane) with at least a few inches to spare. Much longer than that and I need to open the overhead door and reposition the machine. --Peter
Hi Pierre, Thank you choosing Elite Metal Tools for purchasing your Minimax Multi Function Wood Machines. By now you should have the equipment you ordered, please let us know if you have any questions upon installing your equipment. Please take a minute and review your product on our website to share with others your experience with Elite Metal Tools and how the product works for you. If you have any other machinery that you are looking at purchasing, please let us know and we would be happy to help. We look forward to working with you going forward. Best Regards,
Kurt Van Dyke Elite Metal Tools www.elitemetaltools.com 281-241-9504 NOTE: That was the last time I heard from him. He refuses to return my calls.
I just purchased the CU 300 Classic. Right now, it is useless, still seatting in my garage. I din't know that I had to purchase all the gears separately. The power does not come with the machine. When I contacted my salesman from Minimax, he was not helpful at all, that he forgot to tell me that I would have to purchase all the parts separate, and also the people from SCM. This is the worse deal I ever made in my life. The machine cost me $10,000.00, plus an other 1,500.00 dollars for the accessories. When I called SCM for help, they told me that in order to have someone to set the machine for, it will cost me $2,800.00. I still can't find an electrician to install the power cable that also had to be purchase separately. I need help from all of you to get this machine up and running.
Installing the power cable is not such a big deal. You can buy the right cable and fittings from any specialised shop. Any trained electrician should be able to install it in less than 30 minutes.
I like the videos. I do NOT like this MiniMax machine. Maybe later models have a number of NEEDED improvements: 1. The Mortiser has a MAJOR flaw in design. That "in and out" movement lever is downright DANGEROUS really. MOST other mortisers on combo machines do NOT have two levers. They have only one. And it is positioned to NOT interfere with body movement. I see NO case where two levers are necessary. They have "stops" in both direction to handle any possible problems. Also, the hold down clamp should be fixed to the Mortiser. For it is a vital part of a Mortiser of this type. Felders and many other's always have this. Note: It is removable of course, but the need for that is a rare scenario. 2. The jointer/planer has a number of design flaws; that MOST others (I hope later MIniMax's) do not have. The adjustments of the jointer tables for "co-planer"; are a joke on this machine. Also, the "up and down" adjustment for setting "depth of cut"; should NEVER be on the rear side of the table. Secondly this fence needs improvements. It should NOT have a rod that keeps it firm. There is NO excuse for having a height gauge on the planer that is not adjustable.There also should be "extender tables" for longer stock for both Jointer and Planer. That might be available but I saw no way to attach one. 3. It appears that you are having to use both hand to raise the saw blade AND the planer table. This is a terrible design flaw. Martin's. Felder's and other's are very easy in comparison. I agree with you on the bevel angle moving ONLY towards the work. This is one of the MAJOR reasons I chose Powermatic saws, years ago when Delta and most others had "right tilting" saws. Delta even went so far as to attack Powermatic; for its "left tilting blade feature: and Delta tried to prove that their method was the right one. (no pun intended!) What a joke! ANY saw that ONLY permits the blade to tilt towards the fence (and/or the stock) is Dangerous!! Lowering the height of the fence is a pitiful answer to that dangerous problem. Yet MOST combo machines do that. Even Felder of all companies. (note: in one of their videos, hosted by "Harry" on the K3 combo introduction; he even makes a case of the problem and how Felder "solved the problem". But that was a futile attempt at the problem. The ONLY real cure to the problem is tilt that blade in the opposite way! Period! You can see and hear him in the following link. Starting at 5:17: czcams.com/video/pZoRaBn-n70/video.html I did see one combo the other day, (the name escapes me right now) that allowed the bevel in BOTH directions. That is the ONLY combo I would ever buy. You can take that to the bank. 4. To have to remove a screwed in a throat plate; to change blades: is not good design. This is not necessary on most other combo machines. Again, I hope MiniMax has cured this problem on later models. There are other flawed designs, but I have said enough. Again, I like your videos. You are a NO nonsense. Nor are you a "immature showman"; as so many are on CZcams. One can learn a lot from you. Keep up the good work Peter. Finally: If I have been out of line, or disrespectful toward you in any way, I apologize and you have carte blanch to remove this comment dear person.
Hi Pat Dee, I'm a former Felder/Hammer AND Minimax/SCM Group rep and have probably as much hands-on experience as anyone with both brands. With the CU300 in particular. I won't presume to answer to for Peter but did want to respond to a few of your statements. 1.) Regarding the horizontal mortising attachment, the eccentric clamp does indeed screw down to the mortising table. Also, I have never had a customer (or found myself) the two-handle system to be unsafe. The handle extension is easily removable, so the plunge-axis lever does not stick out unnecessarily. I sold dozens, if not hundreds of those mortising units and never heard a safety complaint about them. 2.) Regarding jointer table adjustments, the design on the CU300 (and Minimax FS30) is a pretty much identical to most of the old American-style stand-alone jointers. I personally used a CU300 for the better part of ten years and never had an issue with the adjustment method. Regarding the fence, it is actually sturdier than the Hammer C3-31/3-41 fence since the Minimax knuckle is made of cast iron, not aluminum. If someone is expecting the fences on a combo machine to be the same as a dedicated jointer, they're going to be disappointed but the CU300 jointer fence is actually one of the sturdier ones out there and arguably better than any apples-to-apples competitor. Also, the jointer gauge is indeed adjustable. 3.) Sawblade and planer table (and shaper) raising and lowering is actually quite easy on these machines. At least as smooth as a Unisaw or PM66. Regarding sawblade tilt, all Euro sliding table saws tilt toward the fence since that is considered the offcut side. And it is not a safety issue as long as the operator understands how to properly operate the machine. The only sliding table saws with blades that tilt both ways are SCM's, Altendorfs', and Martin's top of the line units, which no customer who would be seriously considering a combo at this level would look at. There is no Euro 4-in-1 combo, by the way, that has two-way blade tilt. 4.) It takes me about 30 seconds to remove the throatplate on a CU300 Classic. Considering the vast number of other things this machine does to improve safety and efficiency, I can't really complain about that. Anyhow, I hope this helps clear up some facts about the CU300. Dollar-for-dollar, it's hard to beat and I literally had no unhappy CU300 owners. Every one of them loved this machine. Best of luck with your woodworking. EL
Thank you for this series! I have an older (late 80s early 90s?) Mini Max C30 that I have torn down and am currently restoring. Luckily I have both the original instruction and parts manuals but your series has shined light on questions I had that the manuals weren't very clear in explaining. THANK YOU and THANK YOU!!
Thank you for making these videos and sharing the details of your machine. Much like you, I am a serious hobbyists, working out of a two car garage. I will retire 12/31/2021. I’m looking at combo machines due to my limited space. I’ve primary been looking at FELDER, however I’m considering all the options. I look forward to watching your videos to learn more about mini max machines. It’s funny, I work about one mile from Mini Max here in Austin Texas. They don’t give tours of the facility.
Sorcery!!! I love it!
Hi Peter. Nice introduction to the CU300. I own CU300 Smart.. The main difference between Classic and Smart is, that Smart offers Shaper spindle to tilt up to 45 degrees. Otherwise is more or less the same. Cheers.
Very good presentation sir. I am also starting to work with wood and I am searching for any information about those machines.
Really great explained Sir. Im about to get a new combination machine... and deciding between FELDER(HAMMER LINE) or minimax. I really really starting to like minimax more. Subscribe to your channel
This is what I'm looking for. :)
Hi Peter. You have provided an excellent review of the MiniMax CU300 five function combination machine. Would you be so kind to provide your viewers an introduction of the MinMax MM16 BandSaw. I am considering a purchase of this Italian Made Bandsaw shortly.
An excellent into, Peter. You gave us the voltage, but what is the amperage for the circuit? I'm considering upgrading from a Delta Unisaw to a Felder 500 or 700 series combo machine, but I'm also giving the MiniMax a second look thanks in large part to your video series.
***** The CU300 is on a 30 dedicated 30 amp circuit. I'm pretty sure this was what my MiniMax sales person recommended.
***** The CU300 is on a dedicated 30 amp circuit. I'm pretty sure that this was the recommendation of my MiniMax sales person.
Can this be stored on a timber floor?
ماشاء الله
How do install the power cable to the machine? Please help
Hi Peter
Dado ?🤔
Do you know what diameter ducting will fit the dust collector output for the machine? I have the minimax cu 300 smart. Built 2010. Measurements seem a bit odd at about 115mm. Is yours the same?
115mm sounds like 4.5" outer diameter, which suggests 5" aluminium flexible ducts should fit nicely. Pretty standard for domestic chimneys and a/c ducts.
Use a hose clamp though, prevents the duct from flying off and leaving a mess of wood chips on the shop floor 😂
(I've never used this particular machine, just an educated guess)
David, it sounds like your dust ports are the same size as mine. I have a 5" flex hose running to the machine that I switch from station to station as needed. At the end of the hose, I have a 5" to 120mm adapter. The adapter fits on snuggly enough to stay in place, but loosely enough to slip on and off easily. I got mine from Oneida. I just checked, and they still sell them. Look under 'Miscellaneous Parts'. -- Peter
@@sunnybeeches8534 thanks very much. Will check today!
In your opinion what is the optimum workshop size to effectively and efficiently operate the CU 300? Regards, Rob
Robert Romanin Well, I've only used a CU 300 in this workshop, so it's not like I have experience with different sized shops that would lead me to have a well formed opinion on the subject.
My shop is 20' x 24' on the outside, and it has two support pillars that sort of divide the space into two 12' x 20' bays.
When I rip, it's in the 20' direction, and without opening the garage door, I can rip an 8' board with a few inches to spare. To plane or joint that 8' board, I have to move the machine a few inches.
When I crosscut, the board runs in the 24' direction, and I can cut and inch off the end of 16' long board if I have to. But sometimes to crosscut a sheet of plywood I have to rotate the machine 90 degrees, because the support pillars are in the way.
So based on my experience, I think a 24' x 24' shop without support pillars or other obstructions would be a good size for a shop with a CU 300. Of course bigger is always better if you can afford it.
@@sunnybeeches8534 Great answer....exactly what I was looking for. Such a great machine but such limited "useful" information on it. Crazy in the year 2021
G'Day Peter, what is that strange drill press? Looks American mate. What brand is it?
That's just a run of the mill bench-top drill press. Manufacturer is AMT. Origin is Taiwan. It's about 25 years old. I'm not sure what makes it strange to you. It's got a table and fence that I attached to the stock table. Also my chop saw lumber support and fence is kind of built around the base of the drill press, giving the area double duty.
Nice, and yes, strange to some is "normal" to others, how else would you explain America's aversion to tea?
;)
Thanks for the info Peter, much appreciated.
just wondering...how big is your shop? so i can understand the footprint of the machine. considering myself a CU
thnx!
Erwin , the nominal dimensions of my shop are 20' (in the direction the slider moves) x 24'. The walls are framed with 2x6's, so the interior dimensions would be about a foot less in both directions. The shop is not used as a two car garage, but it's about the size of one. I find that I can process 8' lumber in the direction of the slider (e.g. rip or plane) with at least a few inches to spare. Much longer than that and I need to open the overhead door and reposition the machine. --Peter
Sunnybeeches thnx again!
Hi Pierre,
Thank you choosing Elite Metal Tools for purchasing your Minimax Multi Function Wood Machines. By now you should have the equipment you ordered, please let us know if you have any questions upon installing your equipment. Please take a minute and review your product on our website to share with others your experience with Elite Metal Tools and how the product works for you.
If you have any other machinery that you are looking at purchasing, please let us know and we would be happy to help. We look forward to working with you going forward.
Best Regards,
Kurt Van Dyke
Elite Metal Tools
www.elitemetaltools.com
281-241-9504
NOTE:
That was the last time I heard from him. He refuses to return my calls.
He's a "talker" what you want yo know starts at 3:48 ish. Your welcome.
,300ا410
I just purchased the CU 300 Classic. Right now, it is useless, still seatting in my garage. I din't know that I had to purchase all the gears separately. The power does not come with the machine. When I contacted my salesman from Minimax, he was not helpful at all, that he forgot to tell me that I would have to purchase all the parts separate, and also the people from SCM. This is the worse deal I ever made in my life. The machine cost me $10,000.00, plus an other 1,500.00 dollars for the accessories. When I called SCM for help, they told me that in order to have someone to set the machine for, it will cost me $2,800.00. I still can't find an electrician to install the power cable that also had to be purchase separately. I need help from all of you to get this machine up and running.
how are you doing?
The gears separately? What do you mean?
I think you mean the blade...and power cord.
Installing the power cable is not such a big deal. You can buy the right cable and fittings from any specialised shop. Any trained electrician should be able to install it in less than 30 minutes.
I like the videos. I do NOT like this MiniMax machine. Maybe later models have a number of NEEDED improvements:
1. The Mortiser has a MAJOR flaw in design. That "in and out" movement lever is downright DANGEROUS really. MOST other mortisers on combo machines do NOT have two levers. They have only one. And it is positioned to NOT interfere with body movement. I see NO case where two levers are necessary. They have "stops" in both direction to handle any possible problems.
Also, the hold down clamp should be fixed to the Mortiser. For it is a vital part of a Mortiser of this type. Felders and many other's always have this. Note: It is removable of course, but the need for that is a rare scenario.
2. The jointer/planer has a number of design flaws; that MOST others (I hope later MIniMax's) do not have. The adjustments of the jointer tables for "co-planer"; are a joke on this machine. Also, the "up and down" adjustment for setting "depth of cut"; should NEVER be on the rear side of the table. Secondly this fence needs improvements. It should NOT have a rod that keeps it firm.
There is NO excuse for having a height gauge on the planer that is not adjustable.There also should be "extender tables" for longer stock for both Jointer and Planer. That might be available but I saw no way to attach one.
3. It appears that you are having to use both hand to raise the saw blade AND the planer table. This is a terrible design flaw. Martin's. Felder's and other's are very easy in comparison.
I agree with you on the bevel angle moving ONLY towards the work. This is one of the MAJOR reasons I chose Powermatic saws, years ago when Delta and most others had "right tilting" saws. Delta even went so far as to attack Powermatic; for its "left tilting blade feature: and Delta tried to prove that their method was the right one. (no pun intended!) What a joke! ANY saw that ONLY permits the blade to tilt towards the fence (and/or the stock) is Dangerous!! Lowering the height of the fence is a pitiful answer to that dangerous problem.
Yet MOST combo machines do that. Even Felder of all companies. (note: in one of their videos, hosted by "Harry" on the K3 combo introduction; he even makes a case of the problem and how Felder "solved the problem". But that was a futile attempt at the problem. The ONLY real cure to the problem is tilt that blade in the opposite way! Period! You can see and hear him in the following link. Starting at 5:17:
czcams.com/video/pZoRaBn-n70/video.html
I did see one combo the other day, (the name escapes me right now) that allowed the bevel in BOTH directions. That is the ONLY combo I would ever buy. You can take that to the bank.
4. To have to remove a screwed in a throat plate; to change blades: is not good design. This is not necessary on most other combo machines. Again, I hope MiniMax has cured this problem on later models.
There are other flawed designs, but I have said enough.
Again, I like your videos. You are a NO nonsense. Nor are you a "immature showman"; as so many are on CZcams. One can learn a lot from you. Keep up the good work Peter.
Finally: If I have been out of line, or disrespectful toward you in any way, I apologize and you have carte blanch to remove this comment dear person.
Hi Pat Dee, I'm a former Felder/Hammer AND Minimax/SCM Group rep and have probably as much hands-on experience as anyone with both brands. With the CU300 in particular. I won't presume to answer to for Peter but did want to respond to a few of your statements.
1.) Regarding the horizontal mortising attachment, the eccentric clamp does indeed screw down to the mortising table. Also, I have never had a customer (or found myself) the two-handle system to be unsafe. The handle extension is easily removable, so the plunge-axis lever does not stick out unnecessarily. I sold dozens, if not hundreds of those mortising units and never heard a safety complaint about them.
2.) Regarding jointer table adjustments, the design on the CU300 (and Minimax FS30) is a pretty much identical to most of the old American-style stand-alone jointers. I personally used a CU300 for the better part of ten years and never had an issue with the adjustment method. Regarding the fence, it is actually sturdier than the Hammer C3-31/3-41 fence since the Minimax knuckle is made of cast iron, not aluminum. If someone is expecting the fences on a combo machine to be the same as a dedicated jointer, they're going to be disappointed but the CU300 jointer fence is actually one of the sturdier ones out there and arguably better than any apples-to-apples competitor. Also, the jointer gauge is indeed adjustable.
3.) Sawblade and planer table (and shaper) raising and lowering is actually quite easy on these machines. At least as smooth as a Unisaw or PM66. Regarding sawblade tilt, all Euro sliding table saws tilt toward the fence since that is considered the offcut side. And it is not a safety issue as long as the operator understands how to properly operate the machine. The only sliding table saws with blades that tilt both ways are SCM's, Altendorfs', and Martin's top of the line units, which no customer who would be seriously considering a combo at this level would look at. There is no Euro 4-in-1 combo, by the way, that has two-way blade tilt.
4.) It takes me about 30 seconds to remove the throatplate on a CU300 Classic. Considering the vast number of other things this machine does to improve safety and efficiency, I can't really complain about that.
Anyhow, I hope this helps clear up some facts about the CU300. Dollar-for-dollar, it's hard to beat and I literally had no unhappy CU300 owners. Every one of them loved this machine. Best of luck with your woodworking.
EL