2010 Range Rover Sport L320: 5 Year Ownership Costs & Maintenance
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- How much has my 2010 Range Rover Sport L320 cost to run over a 5 year period. It includes Tax, Insurance and running costs and all the costs associated with maintenance and repairs.
If you want to skip ahead to a particular section here are the time stamps:-
Tax & Insurance 2:30
Fuel Consumption & cost 4:29
Maintenance & Repairs 7:18
Summary 21:01
Links to videos of some of the work I've carried out:-
Oil Change • Range Rover Sport L320...
Fuel Filter • Range Rover Sport L320...
Steering UJ • Range Rover Sport Upda...
Coolant Tank • Range Rover Sport L320...
12v Socket • Range Rover Sport: 12v...
Water leak • Range Rover Sport Wate...
Bonnet latch • Range Rover Sport Bonn...
I like your presenting style. Much more relaxed in comparison to a lot of CZcamsrs.
Many thanks Ryan, much appreciated.
Love this series David. Hope you’ll keep the updates coming 👍🏻 God bless
Another video coming soon.....the dreaded Restricted performance Red triangle of doom. cheers
I think you hit the nail on the head David. Pay a little regularly to keep the car well serviced OR wait till it fails and pay a lot more to get it fixed, it's obvious. A few hundred quid for a timing belt seems a lot till it snaps then you're potentially looking at thousands for a new engine, your choice. These are not Range Rover facts, they apply to every make and model out there. Cheers,
Very honest appraisal, thanks
Mate if you do get rid of your car I suggest getting the 2016 Discovery 4 SDV6 3.0 as this reduces the Tax cost TO £360 a year and its a great alternative, don't get less than the HSE model. Mind you to keep the cost down you 'really' need to do all the work yourself. Then you know it's been done correctly. Lots of things on the cars are missed by garages I.E. compressor filters and drying agents, greasing of hinges, cleaning of mass flow sensors sensors (they can reduce your miles per gallon by the way) also transmission oil, diff oil, etc etc etc. Great to see you putting yourself out there 😀 keep it up.
Many thanks for the comment Charles. I might take a look at a discovery over the coming months. I think it'll be a bit of a wrench to part with the Sport buy we'll see. I'm going to give it a thorough service very soon also, as you mentioned, a transmission mega flush, diffs and transaxle oil change plus a few other things, which I'll be chatting about in another video. Watch this space....David
Absolutely brilliant video. I’m looking to purchase a 2010 RR Sport myself at the moment
Many thanks, hope it helped. You won't regret buying one, take your time looking for the right one with history. Good luck.
@@davidbaugh Cheers David, the videos have definitely helped thanks. It’s the same with any luxury car to be fair, the costs of maintenance are going to be higher than a normal basic hatchback but so many people skimp on it so try these cars. Otherwise they’d probably have a better reputation if they had done so. Where did you source yours from?
You're correct, maintenance is key. I usually buy a car through private sellers, however in this instance I bought mine from Marshall & sons in Aldridge, Walsall. They have a good selection of cars especially Range Rovers. I did take it back after a week to replace the Air Compressor. They have 16 RR in stock including a nice V8 Vogue.www.marshallandsonmotors.co.uk/search?size=n_24_n&filters%5B0%5D%5Bfield%5D=manufacturer&filters%5B0%5D%5Bvalues%5D%5B0%5D=Land%20Rover&filters%5B0%5D%5Btype%5D=any&sort%5B0%5D%5Bfield%5D=_score&sort%5B0%5D%5Bdirection%5D=desc&sort%5B1%5D%5Bfield%5D=price&sort%5B1%5D%5Bdirection%5D=desc
Hello David
Did you not replace the rocker covers or am I getting you mixed up with someone else.
i have a 2008 range rover sport where the warning sign of a car with two arrows either side flashes red constantly and warns me to stop car....the code on the diagnostic machine i have is 'range rover sport Code C1A00-54' - can you help what it maybe
just struggling to figure out what it is
Not come across that before.......hope this is of help...czcams.com/video/lErgUvfPNZM/video.html#:~:text=and%20what%20that%20is%20indicating,it%20into%20manufacturing%20mode%20temporarily.
I'm seriously considering a L320, so thank you for the video, much appreciated. Could I ask where your JLR specialist is based please. I'm just north of Birmingham in a village just outside Lichfield. Thanks again.
Hi, Thanks for the comment. Here is a link to JMB Land Rover Services, jmblandroverservices.co.uk
I have used JMB several times and highly recommend him. He is based in north Birmingham.
Good luck with your search for a RRS.
Many thanks, again much appreciated.
Hi David I have a 2013 Range Rover sport it’s off the road at the moment 😢 I have a coolant leak think it’s the radiator as water is dripping down from the front bumper when I top it up think this is down to the antifreeze not being changed for a long time think this happened the week before Christmas when it was freezing 🥶 cold for that week and damaged the radiator
Hi Brendan, it may be something as simple as a hose clamp, I know it's not easy to get good access to see where its coming from unless you have access to a ramp. I would also check the coolant tank for leaks.
Hope it's an easy fix for you.
Seriously David, considering the very low mainly short urban mileage you are doing in a 3 ton barge, it is not a practical vehicle for you at all!
Furthermore, given the complexity of diesel engines, which makes them very expensive to service when something goes wrong compared to the petrol engine.
If it’s one thing diesel engines do not like is sitting around for any length of time & short trips with urban driving. They are over engineered compared to the petrol engine & will outlast a petrol engine in mileage many times over. Providing of course, they are serviced regularly by the book & most importantly, driven regularly (not urban driving) on the motorway over long distances.
I too own a 2010 (Bali Blue) RR Sport 3.0TDV6 & absolutely love it to bits. I’ve had her for almost 7yrs (3rd owner) with 165K km on the clock. Booked in for major cam/timing belts service in 2 weeks time, which I’m not looking forward to considering the cost of around $3200 plus the annual service, add on another $1000.
But the difference here is that I bought the RR because I NEEDED a heavy duty tow vehicle to tow my race cars on a trailer & most of the mileage I do is mainly highway driving over long distances.
Fuel consumption is constantly 10L/100km (with no towing) & I always laugh when considering that such a large 3 ton behemoth achieves such excellent economy. That’s the beauty of diesel engines & what they are engineered to do with ease 24/7 if required.
Have the same issue with the fuel sensor in the tank, but in my case it also results in the fuel gauge showing incorrect readings ie 3/4 full when actually 1/4 full. Reported to be due to condensation in the fuel tank affecting the sensor in the tank (as the owner that I bought it from had it for only 4yrs & drove it less than 5K per year causing condensation build up in the fuel tank). It’s been there since day 1 & I’ve learnt to live with it relying on the trip distance meter instead. Might get it looked at & fixed next year.
Also looking at getting a professional dyno engine tune by a diesel engine tuning specialist to extract better torque performance in low to mid range for towing, including a slightly larger custom exhaust system with cat delete & less restriction. Should be interesting to see the results hopefully with a slight improvement in fuel economy.
But getting back to my initial point David, recommend that you get rid of your RR & get a more practical smaller car. With the low mileage that you are doing, I would question the need for a vehicle at all! Surely if your planning on a long trip, it would make more sense to rent a car instead.
What’s the point of having a vehicle, paying all those costs every year & all it does is sits parked in your driveway collecting dust?
Interesting comment.. I can assure you that it doesn't just sit gathering dust. It does get used regularly, admittedly short journeys but it always gets up to operating temp for the majority of the journey. I don't think short journey use causes condensation in the fuel tank, it can cause problems in the engine, sludgy deposits.. Mine shows none of that.
Costs per year!!!!!!! If I was to not drive the car at all it would cost around £1150 or $1400. yes it's expensive but, it's not always about the costs. Yes I have been considering selling the car and getting a smaller car but I would loose all of the things that I bought the RRS in the first place. So at the moment the car is staying. As for not having a car at all hmmmmm, I think you know the answer to that.......not that it's relevant but there are houses up and down our road which have up to 5 cars outside some of which never move, but that's up to them, so long as they don't park outside other peoples property which they frequently do........
Anyway back to the RRS I see you are having all the belts done. I had mine done about 2 years ago by an independent JLR specialist cost £650 or $750, which makes you $3200 sound a bit steep I assume it's by a main dealer. I would advise finding a good indy mechanic. It's having another job done soon.....more in the next video.
If you've seen anymore of my videos I do have two classics a 67' Lotus Elan S4 (being restored) and a 61' Rover P4 both of which are car tax exempt and cost less than £100 each to insure.......by my man maths I am carbon neutral.
Cheers David