Chevy Oil Filter Adapter and Cooler Line Permanent Fix 1988-1998 Chevy
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- In this video I will show how to perform a Chevy Oil Filter Adapter and Cooler Line Permanent Fix 1988-1998 Chevy . This addresses the design problem The link to where I bought the wash is below at Amazon.
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I grew up being a "Chevy (GM) Guy" and Ford was a fighting word in high school. Then we all grew up to realize all these vehicles have gremlins.
You did an outstanding job of fixing some of the plagues and your techniques are worthy of pat on the back.
What 9th Gen Accord failed to mention or show in this video is the actual mod to the hard lines. It requires a 1/2" compression to -8an installed on the hard line (after cutting off the formed end which fits into the original fitting) and a 3/8" male NPT to -8an male fitting that screws into the oil filter adapter. You'll need two sets of these to complete this conversion.
Thanks!
Thank you
Why not just replace the whole line with a upgrade flexible one?
Thanks
@@ryanjohnson8099 hard lines are better, like video producer mentions, the rubber fails where it meets the aluminum. Had a 1994 Caprice 9C1 dumping oil pretty bad from one of these rubber to aluminum ends, very similar design on 9C1 caprice except for having a fully auxilary oil cooler and not this cheap junk plumbed into the radiator(where dexcool turns acidic and eats the heat ex changer in radiator and then you hopefully can figure out the end result). Replaced the leaky GM oil hose with 3/8 or 1/2" oil rated air line from a speed shop who would sell this high end air hose to use as fuel line to guys who couldn't afford AN fittings like me as well at the time. I was HIGHLY skeptical of this special air line but it worked flawlessly on these applications. And no viewers and readers, do not by HF or w-m@rt airhose and expect it to work. You could well kiss your engine goodbye. I went with a speedshop owners recommendation who cared more about repeat sales and saving people money over making big bux every sale.
A couple of comments - having 2 4wd GMC vehicles, 92 K1500 and 97 Yukon. There is a new(er) change from the plastic retainer for the push-lock oil cooler lines; the newer adapters have a spring/circlip that securely locks the oil line into the adapter. The o-rings inside the adapter are what repeatedly leak after time (by the way, there are o-rings at the radiator connection end also). I have changed out both of mine at least twice over the years. This option with just the AN conversion at the oil filter adapter alone is worth the price of admission here! I didn't even know there was a compression adapter for 1/2" tubing to -8 AN... Great job!
do u have a part number for the updated retainers that you used? thanks in advance. I have seen these on transmission lines as well for upgrades,., because the transmission lines were blowing out as well.
This is exactly what I'm getting ready to do to my truck. I'm going to replace pipe completely with new high pressure hose. With fittings . Great video.
After redoing the gaskets in my 95 Astro, I flex sealed everything. Driveway has never been so clean lol
Just completed this conversion, including filter housing gaskets (of course). Suggestion - plan to insert PTFE/CPE flex hose for at least lower housing inlet line. If you cut original lines at the extreme end of line (right before flare) you might be able to work it. Otherwise, you'll have issues with the short straights/bends. 1st cut didn't provide enough straight line section for fitting. Then cut line back to 2nd flat section (~1" further) and was able to get flare fitting on. But the line angle is not great and close to frame/transaxle. I consider this a workaround until I get a flex hose in there (which I had it to begin with).
I just replaced the filter housing with another filter housing that doesnt take the oil cooler lines. I replaced my radiator with a radiator without the oil cooler. I did this a year ago and I instantly gained about 5 more pounds of oil pressure and have zero leaks. I havent had any problems at all so far.
Can you tell me where you got the filter housing for non cooler setup
@@fordracer1415 it's apart of the engine block. Just remove your oil filter adapter from the cooler housing and bolt it where the oil cooler housing bolts up to the engine and spin on your filter there.
Good explanation, nice looking work. My top line is leaking at the front, so I'm about ready to address that issue. Mine, however is a 1994, and I believe the flexible part extends farther up toward the tank. That should give me more room for fittings in there. Thanks
Recently completed this upgrade to my 96. I wish he had shown the processes of placing the adaptors on the lines and how / when he mated them to the housing. It was a difficult process but I was excited when I finished it. The sad part is, oil still leaked where the adaptors bolt together. It may have been my poor ability, but it just didn’t work for me. Adjusting the adaptors on one end while holding it all in place and tightening the housing end was just madness. Maybe he had a special way in which he did it that was better than my efforts, but just figured I’d give my experience ):
Good video, plan on running copper on 97 K1500 (left over 1/2" from a home heating oil debacle I do not plan on using) and some oil rated hose for the flex section, but will make rubber section shorter(since copper has better yield than aluminum) much like a setup on a 66 GM car I have collecting dust
9th Gen, thanks for taking the time to video and put it up. I realize most people are working a job, have a family and this is a courtesy to others. If you make anything from it on the way then good for you.
I just read the public comments on the fittings you used to go hard line to the housing one person said compression one person said Flair what did you use to actually hook the Hardline to the housing
I tested how effective the factory style oil cooler is. On a hot summer day, it lowers the oil temp by 6 degrees. It's not very effective obviously so I deleted the factory cooler and used an external cooler. I saw oil temps drop 30+ degrees after that. Factory oil and trans coolers suck.
Thank you Sir. I really appreciate this. Im running in to the same trouble
Good ol' design for assembly... I replaced 3 lines with Dorman units on my 2000 5.7 van, all three failed at both hose crimps! This is in addition to everything still leaking at the push-in connections or course. Next project is to replace everything with AN flares and BMRW hose assemblies and be done with it!
Awesome video… gonna look into that not as I’m having that leak issue as we speak… thanx
I'm curious why you didn't use braided lines the whole length.
That’s a great idea using AN fittings with the compression fitting on the tube side. Thank you posting the video, makes complete sense why my oil filter adapter is leaking.
I saw a question in the comments about flaring the line, if you flare the line you risk splitting it and would still need to use a backup ferrule. I believe the compression fitting is the best route.
I'm about to post up a video tomorrow April 1, 2023 how to do it the best possible way in my opinion...... better than factory and looks better as well...... eliminate all those spots where a leak could develop and only have connections on each end.....
Like, subscribe, and share if you feel it helps ya
That looks like flares from this end. But agree, plan on using compression fittings on my truck as well.
Thanks dude, I did not use your mod but I did appreciate how you went through everything and the hose placement, I pulled them off without noting where each of them went on the housing. Doh...
Ehat method did you use ?
Is there a parts list for this repair? I think this is the best one i have seen. How much of the lines is cut?
The proper fix would be to ditch the factory lines and factory in radiator cooler all together and install an aftermarket cooler with all AN lines and fittings.
compressions work fine if using good hose and line.
!997 chevy 1500 pick up with 4.3 engine. with oil cooler. Drive shaft fell out and hit the adapter block that oil filter screws into and broke it. Can I remove it and replace it
thanks getting ready to do my 94 k1500 and u likely saved me alot of hassle.,
hi...I have the same oem set-up and could you please tell me how did you get the an fittings on the tubes before the oil cooler adapter? thank you the video is excellent but did not show what I need ...thank you again
I have a 4.3 and i was wondering if all the Blocks have the 2 tapped holes for the adapter to bolt to cause my remote system has to be bolted to block and im not sure if my block has the 2 holes i have seen some that doesent have them.
Why not get a longer transmission line and completely eliminate the oil cooling lines ?
Nice i just found an oil leak on my oil adapter so i will change the gaskets and do the 8an conversion i think
I replace this entire cooler assembly with a summit racing unit, AN fittings and a oil cooler with a dedicated fan and thermostat. I have 5 GMT-400 trucks. None of them leak oil.
I appreciate this. Thank you very much!
Wish I saw this before getting Dorman hoses. Upper fits fine, lower doesn't fit at all. I'm giving up on them and ordered all 8AN fittings and will do proflex braided hose the entire way (less chance of leaks with fewer fittings). The only thing I'm trying to figure out now is what is the adapter needed to go from the radiator oil cooler fittings to 8AN male.
Found this link, the radiator fitting is 20x1.5(mm). I went with 8AN fittings, but this link went with 6AN the whole way. Recommend pulling the oil filter adapter, putting the 8AN to 3/8 NPT adapter and then connecting your hoses to it first. There is not enough room to mess with a wrench once it's installed in the truck. Then, push the hoses up first, pull them through as you put the adapter in place and wrench it down. Torx-40 for the screws on my 89 GMC and just a big flat bladed screw driver to remove and install the plugs that hide them with the square opening. Waiting for my last parts to arrive mid week. Reference: www.gmt400.com/threads/how-to-install-an-oil-cooler-lines.30454/
Where do you get the fittings for the lines? Are they compression or do you have to flair the end?
Thank You
William Cunha I got everything from Amazon. The ends for the pro-flex hose, which is rubber in the middle, is a special compression fitting. I did have to turn down the 20x1.5 mm fitting to 3/4" OD and then run through a die to rethreadv them. Pain in the butt but it worked. 20mm is 2-3 thousandths over 3/4, which is what the old lines measured
Cripes! I just put Dorman hoses in my truck. They went on just fine and the little plastic things snapped right on. I don't like Dorman parts but these hoses seem quality for Dorman. I hope I get a few years out of them until I can do something else. Probably have a hydraulic shop make me some lines that I can use or eliminate them all together.
And another thing, how well does a 200 degree radiator cool the oil? Kinda ironic the oil cooler is to make the engine last longer but ends up being the engines demise lol.
Heat, oil, vibration... plastic [that embrittles and fracs out over time]. Gee, what could possibly go wrong, GM?
Earls makes a straight up 3/8" npt to tubing fitting, but I havent used that so no recommendation there. I mention it because you installed a little extra something behind your -8 AN fitting for tubing. What was used?
I just put on an AC Delco Gasket and O-Ring after trying to use a Dorman. No leaks while the engine runs but, leaks for awhile after the engine is turned off.
Mine does too, I wonder why
Same any solution on this problem ?
I put a small oil cooler on my son’s k1995 and it leaks with auto zone gaskets set does it have to be the big filter housing or will small housing work as well please help
Do you have part numbers to the fittings and from where did you get them
my oil cooler line at the crimped fitting just blew off while on the highway, fun times. wondering if my 350 even needs an oil cooler?
To replace the oil pan gasket, do I need to remove the oil filter adapter?
Can't you buy steel line for say Transmission cooler and run from the rad down to the flexible line you showed. They have larger steel lines that can be bend to the shape of your old lines.
I actually have a leak at the radiator on mine. It drips oil right below where it fits into the radiator. You would think it would leak at the back where the plastic fittings are. Hopefully I can just tighten it.
Why didn’t you just do the metal braided line the whole way?
Yeah or just make a rubber hose with clamped on fittings that fit the cooler and offset block which I believe are 3/8" npt.
For flexibility
@@mickjager5974 just watched the video and thats what I was thinking that I could just use a hose and delete the metal lines altogether because my 2005 GMC is leaking at the O’ring where the C-clamp is at connected to the radiator.Do u think that would be fine to do it this way?
@@walker1474 Probably. I ended up buying an adapter that lets you abandon the oil cooler. I don't feel like I work my truck that hard to really need it. It was a very simple change over.
I need help, my 1997 gmc suburban 7.4 is Leaking its oil into The radiator, And I don't think it's the head gasket.
You made me realize that my 1999 4.3 may have had an engine oil cooler hook-up because in front of the oil filter housing, a hose about 12" long comes off the front and loops back and attaches back next to the other end next to the hose that came out. I wondered what happened there. It's a built 1999 4.3 put into a monster 1993 Suzuki Sidekick JLX body sitting on a Toyota truck frame. The transmission hoses go to the bottom of the radiator where your engine oil coolant lines may go. Maybe all I need to do is buy an oil cooler and mount to the front of my radiator or off to the side of it. OR get a transmission cooler for the radiator and run the oil lines to the base of the radiator like yours is.
What is a parts list that you used for the a/n fittings
What is part number to eliminate those push in plastic clips thanks
This video is beyond helpful.
Hahaha, nope, deleted! I had leaky oil cooler lines, instead of messing with all that nonsense , delete oil cooler. Runs great, 97 Astro, instructions on forum Astro Safari
What is the part that connects the hoses to the new fittings on the oil filter mount?
Would it be ok to get the part number for the braided extension lines? Thank you so much
i have the same truck with oil pressure issues. Those 2 pipe plugs have bypass springs under them? i have a feeling mine are shot and weak.
many chevy motors bit the dust due to that funky pushlock design,,
I'm about to post up a video of how to do it better than factory and much nicer looking as well.... should be up tomorrow April 1, 2023.....
Like, subscribe, and share if you feel it helps ya
I'm replacing just the hoses and reusing fitting but for some reason I can't get them threaded back into the oil filter/engine side. Don't understand. Can the little o-ring be the problem??
True statement on Do Not use Dorman oil lines .
Can’t get those gaskets up here in Canada. Do you have any dimensions for the round fibre gasket. I’ll have to make one and reuse the old o-ring with silicone 🤷🏼♂️
Oh i thought I would point out, autozone sells a kit that shares the part number with the proper gaskets, its a kit that includes the gaskets for all chevy oil filter adapters as far as I can tell. I forgot to mention they are the Dorman gaskets though so 🤷♂️ but the old gakset had completely failed
Excellent video! Exactly what I was looking for!
Poor design? Dude your trucks like 20 or 30 years old! I would say Chevy made an awesome truck
It is inherently a poor design. Kind-of like their power steering lines that seep oil from day one, ther is no fix and gm still uses these lines, the only real fix is to make your own lines or get custom ones made by a hydraulic guy. They have their faults, and could be designed better. Your not wrong, it is old at this point, but these failed prematurely all the time with these engines,
Can you please give me the name of the male and female transmission parts that screw together after I flare the line? I need the two parts that screw into the oil filter housing and the part that goes on the oil cooler line please. I need to do this quickly as mine is about to let go
8AN Flare to 3/8" NPT Pipe Adapter Fitting, Aluminum AN8 Male Flare to 3/8 NPT Male Thread Fuel Hose Connector Straight Black Anodized
Can I replace my oil filter unit? Will the center thread thing change out from a 1991 c 1500 350 to a 1995 k 1500 350. Im putting the 95 k 1500 motor in my 1991 c 1500. I dont need the oil cooler set up . Would rather use the 91 set up. Will it innerchange?
Thank you for the video
hi there my friend good video there my friend keep the good videos coming up by the way I got a 95 GMC k1500 4,3 v6
4.3 rocks!!! Otherwise known as the 3/4 350 CI engine!! Same size pistons as the 350 CI and most items that bolt to the 350, such as the water pump, TH350 transmissions, etc., will bolt to the 4.3!!
@@USMC-Sniper-0137 AKA 350 with 2 cylinders chopped off. I think fords 3.8 v6 was a 302 similarly modified. It was also a pretty good engine. Both based on well designed v8s
Good job and great idea. Which exact Blue Monster Teflon tape did you use? Also, I may use the Teflon tape at the radiator because I get a "weepy" (vert slight) leak there.
I just delete them with an old school filter adapter, I have seen many engines toasted from the oil cooler failing. Never needed one in the 70's don't need one now...
Anyone know where to buy a replacement oil filter adapter like the one in this video?
Ya,thanks!!! Great information!!!
I’m just about to do mine! Just noticed there’s oil drips coming from it and the lines
From my observation this is not a permanent fix you talked about later if it leaks get new lines alter them to fit this seems to nullify permanent fix
Does anyone know what size bolts(2),that go on the oil coolent adapter that the oil filter goes on? 98 Chev/ Silverado 4x4
There are also 2 new bolts that hold the adapter to the block - washer head bolts and washers with an internal seal come as a kit from GM ... P/N 12553513
Thank you for your videos
Love the informative video.
What are the part numbers for the AN fitting from Summit so I can order them. The compression to the hard line?? I’m guessing you need 4 fittings???
Hi, yes, can we please find out how the hard line is held on to the fitting and leak proof--- glue, some pressurized fitting? Thank you!
I have a Question. I did change the the connectors before I seen your video but I used a compression fittings instead of flair fighting. I have lost some oil pressure. Is this normal? Is their something I can do to correct this? Thanks in advance.
What's the part number on the whole part the whole oil filter stance I can't find it anywhere
What part number did you use for the female -8an fitting, is it still not leaking?
I just watched your video. Can you list the part numbers?
Yeah he never showed the fitting like he said
Oh BOO HOO! Go cry me a river why dontcha!
he never used it dummy so why you need to see it??
Hi. Very helpful video. Can you tell me the orientation of the oil cooler lines on a 1997 K1500 5.7. I didn't check the orientation of the oil cooler lines before removing them. So I dont know if the top line comes out of the top of the radiator and then connects to the top port of the oil filter adapter or to the bottom port of the filter adapter? I just need to know how the hoses connect from radiator to oil filter adapter.
I would have the incoming(to radiator) motor oil go in top and bottom be a return. But be sure NOT to run DEXCOOL with a factory setup like this. Flush all that nonsense out and run ethylene glycol plain jane green coolant (get with bittering agent if worried about poisoning pets) . Otherwise, as commenter above said, run a quality auxilary cooler. Picked up one cheap qat a swap meet, used GM factory one that was used on a PRO-street or PRO-Stock Oldsmobile. Just stinks I do not have the factory K1500 radiator support mounts for it and they are no longer available of course.
Do you have to drain something before you disconnect those cooler lines?
Hopefully you'd be changing out the oil and filter as well. So yes. You'll need a good old oil collection for the block, filter, lines and any that comes out of cooler up front. Bring those rags and gloves.
How take it out if it's square bolt
I’m getting ready to do mine. No oil cooler lines to contend with so it should be a lot easier.
Great work amazing idea . Thank you .
What's the part # or link for the -8AN Female that goes on the aluminum line you cut. Is it a flared fitting that the cut line needs to be flared?
Smartass Sportswear you figure this out yet? I’m in the same boat.
@@vegastyle84 No luck yet but I did find some fittings on a plumbing website that from what I saw from another video should work. May just take everything off and make a trip to Home Depot. Here's the link... www.plumbingsupply.com/flarefittings.html#flarenut
639220 part number and it’s a -8 to 1/2 hard line female
Ya? Another video said you had to flare the pipe after cutting, to mate with the nipple of -8AN male flare. I wish he would have reconfirmed that. Exactly the upgrade I was looking for though. Thanks!!
Robert Pendergraft I just took the rough inside edge of the tubbing off with my razor knife
Is this similar on the 350?
Almost right idea? Why not just use a longer flexible braided line a lot longer then what you did. Instead of 12" flexible lines use a 48" ? line. Great idea almost.
Looked up the part the showed at Rock Auto, and the numbers match. $2.86
Good video man I appreciate this.
Can you give me the link to the website that you got this oil cooler adaptor from?
Is a heck of a lot easier to just build a set of line out of hydraulic hose and cheaper
Nope I disagree or I would have done it that way. If I worked in a hydraulic shop I would have done it that way.
Wish I would have seen this first. Tractor supply or neighborhood farm store sells pre-made lengths of hydraulic hoses. I wouldn't have had to wait for parts anit would have been easier
Awesome vid thanks man!
Cheap option two oil cooler delete suing the old filter adapter from any 68 on sbc..
What flare size did you use?
So I have a 1998 Chevy k 1500 4.3 liter vortec that I was replacing radiator on about a month ago. In replacing we decided to cut and replace the old corroded oil coolant lines and reinstall new ones but accidentally broke a piece of the housing adapter in the process causing me to fetch another one in the junkyard. The new one came off a 96 Chevy of exact same engine and was exact same as broken one. We cleaned it off good. Made sure o-ring and lines were in place as well as filter and the screws. But the housing keeps leaking from where you actually attach it to the hole. I don't get it. New radiator is ready, new lines are ready, it keeps leaking from the housing only. Any suggestions?
Probably incorrect gasket or torque spec
Great idea.
Thank you
part number for the an fittings used??
does it fit the 7.4?
So you only used the new fittings to the housing and new gasket ? No new lines ? Unsure how your original lines connect to the new fitting
The line side of the AN fitting is a compression fitting to go on the original hard line.
Ok can the oil cooler line cause oil to leak into my radiator as and coolant leak into my oil as well?? 1994 chevy 1500 5.7
Yes. Remove your oil lines from the radiator and do a pressure test on the oil cooler on the radiator. If it passes your problem is somewhere else.
Why not put an oil filter adapter from an old school 350 on it and delete all that mess? Then there's nothing to leak. My 93 chevy 5.7 liter tbi has the same adapter.they interchange
Can you send me send me all parts numbers you used for the fitting