Great video! I've pulled my ballast out already! But I do have a few questions. 1) The light you worked on with the photo eye is exactly like mines. Mines does not have a name or model number. Can I get that info from you guys? 2) Not sure if the photo eye n small ballast are both bad. Is there anyway to bench test it? Or can I just order the larger igniter ballastballast separately? 3) for that model of outdoor security outdoor lighting fixture, can it be converted to LED? And if so, Can you recommend the proper retrofit kit?
I want to buy some products in this company, I see that I comment the video, I would like to ask you if the company is serious with your orders? Is it reliable to buy online? thanks for your comments.
Why would you replace everything? Its very very rare that all components go out. Its usually the capacitor or igniter that goes out or the transformer if plugged into 220v when it should be 120v.all parts can be replaced individually.
Craig I thought nobody noticed that...but you're right he missed connect the wires of the lamp...black goes to X1 or commonly red wire and the white of the lamp goes to the common of the ballast...of course the white of the input and the power line goes to the feeds...
Craig is correct. The red lamp line has been connected to the common (white) lead from the switch and the common line is wired to the black (hot) lead from the switch. If I'm missing something here it would be helpful to all if an explanation was offered.
Cankuwicasa I'm a year too late but hopefully someone can benefit from this information: using both those hot leads will give you your 277V which is what this fixture is rated for. Make sure your panel is a 120/277. If you're getting more voltage than what the equipment is rated for, you will either need a transformer or you'll have to use the lower voltage on the panel (if you're a cheapo).
I want to buy some products in this company, I see that I comment the video, I would like to ask you if the company is serious with your orders? Is it reliable to buy online? thanks for your comments.
Check your capacitor / ignitor module. If you hear humming the ballast (could) still be good, it at least indicates a functioning primary winding. If you have a pulse start fixture you will find a smaller cylinder next to the capacitor, you might want to try replacing that. If its not pulse start its probably just the capacitor. Using pulse start lamps with non-pulse start ballasts will also lead to no light output.
why we need to use the balast? if it purpose is light so we just use the standard bulb and we have light and for more light we can install two bulb without any balast. i dont understand his purpose at all
What if I actually wanted to bypass the ballast because I wanted to replace the metal halide bulb with an LED bulb? Would I simply disconnect the common and lamp line from the ballast and connect it to the power line being fed to the fixture?
I would like to switch to LED too. My lamp (the same type as in the video) has the disk to dawn photo eye setup. So, removing the ballast, shouldn't effect power to the PhotoEye?
Or, you could take all that ballast mess out of there and wire your socket direct line-voltage and install a 20Watt LED Corn bulb, and be done with it for 10 years.
I'm a electrician. 99% of the time it is just the capacitor that is bad. Unless the copper core ballast is obviously black and burned up. Only change the $10 capacitor. Or the 3wire starter, if it has one.
Hi. I have a 175 watt metal halide fixture. The voltage is 177V from center pin to socket. The specs for this bulb calls for 300V. Is this the ballast or the capacitor? Thanks.
Joseph Maya This video sucks! It doesn't address the taps for the input voltage. They come prewired for 277V. If your connecting it to 120v, the output would be a wrong 155V. Change the tap to match the proper voltage.
I'm connected to the 120V tap, I changed the capacitor and now get 266V from center pin to socket. The light works, but thought my voltage would be higher.
OMG WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE. I’m sorry I’m not trying to be a troll. This video has been up for 8 years and you clearly don’t know what you are doing. Take this video down it is not educational. At the very least let the viewer know it’s a comedy. First you hook up both ballast and the lamp all together in the same wire nut. Then at the end you have it hooked up wrong. You say the wires are clearly marked. The you should have made sure the person doing the video could read. L stands for LOAD not lamp. Over 130,000 views. INCOMPETENT!
Great video!
I've pulled my ballast out already! But I do have a few questions.
1) The light you worked on with the photo eye is exactly like mines. Mines does not have a name or model number. Can I get that info from you guys?
2) Not sure if the photo eye n small ballast are both bad. Is there anyway to bench test it? Or can I just order the larger igniter ballastballast separately?
3) for that model of outdoor security outdoor lighting fixture, can it be converted to LED? And if so, Can you recommend the proper retrofit kit?
It's nice and easy when the wall pack is laying on a table but not so much when it's already mounted on the wall.
I want to buy some
products in this company, I see that I comment the video, I would like
to ask you if the company is serious with your orders?
Is it reliable to buy online?
thanks for your comments.
Why would you replace everything? Its very very rare that all components go out. Its usually the capacitor or igniter that goes out or the transformer if plugged into 220v when it should be 120v.all parts can be replaced individually.
"Only two wires" to hook up eh? Two neutrals and the lamp. What about the power? Is this a magic ballast which needs no external power source?
Craig I thought nobody noticed that...but you're right he missed connect the wires of the lamp...black goes to X1 or commonly red wire and the white of the lamp goes to the common of the ballast...of course the white of the input and the power line goes to the feeds...
Great information ℹ️ thanks 🙏
Thanks for helping an old fluorescent/neon guy out. I hope most H.I.D. Ballasts I run into are 1/2 as easy as that bad boy!
Craig is correct. The red lamp line has been connected to the common (white) lead from the switch and the common line is wired to the black (hot) lead from the switch. If I'm missing something here it would be helpful to all if an explanation was offered.
Cankuwicasa I'm a year too late but hopefully someone can benefit from this information: using both those hot leads will give you your 277V which is what this fixture is rated for. Make sure your panel is a 120/277. If you're getting more voltage than what the equipment is rated for, you will either need a transformer or you'll have to use the lower voltage on the panel (if you're a cheapo).
I want to buy some
products in this company, I see that I comment the video, I would like
to ask you if the company is serious with your orders?
Is it reliable to buy online?
thanks for your comments.
Cankuwicasa Switch? What switch?
its nice if you have a diagram showing on the screen
so the viewer has an idea of connections of the ballast the igniter and the capacitor
Check your capacitor / ignitor module. If you hear humming the ballast (could) still be good, it at least indicates a functioning primary winding. If you have a pulse start fixture you will find a smaller cylinder next to the capacitor, you might want to try replacing that. If its not pulse start its probably just the capacitor. Using pulse start lamps with non-pulse start ballasts will also lead to no light output.
why we need to use the balast? if it purpose is light so we just use the standard bulb and we have light and for more light we can install two bulb without any balast. i dont understand his purpose at all
What if I actually wanted to bypass the ballast because I wanted to replace the metal halide bulb with an LED bulb? Would I simply disconnect the common and lamp line from the ballast and connect it to the power line being fed to the fixture?
Yes that's exactly what you would do
I would like to switch to LED too.
My lamp (the same type as in the video) has the disk to dawn photo eye setup.
So, removing the ballast, shouldn't effect power to the PhotoEye?
Is it possible to use Metal Hilide ballast for mercury-vapor lamp?
Yes, but if it has pulse start it will shorten the life of the bulb.
He hook his common to his black wire and lamp to his common, backwards. Not sure if anyone else caught that. Might of been a mistake by him.
Or, you could take all that ballast mess out of there and wire your socket direct line-voltage and install a 20Watt LED Corn bulb, and be done with it for 10 years.
OR....YOU CAN PISS - OFF AND REALIZE THAT LED'S SUCK BIG - TIME.....end of story.....
VERY WELL DONE....(provided you have the intelligence)....
I'm a electrician. 99% of the time it is just the capacitor that is bad. Unless the copper core ballast is obviously black and burned up. Only change the $10 capacitor. Or the 3wire starter, if it has one.
Hi. I have a 175 watt metal halide fixture. The voltage is 177V from center pin to socket. The specs for this bulb calls for 300V. Is this the ballast or the capacitor? Thanks.
Joseph Maya This video sucks! It doesn't address the taps for the input voltage. They come prewired for 277V. If your connecting it to 120v, the output would be a wrong 155V. Change the tap to match the proper voltage.
The reason the capacitor goes bad. It cannot handle the intense heat coming from the ballast. A manufactured over site.
I'm connected to the 120V tap, I changed the capacitor and now get 266V from center pin to socket. The light works, but thought my voltage would be higher.
Joseph Maya My local voltage is 120V input and 300v at lamp. But within 10℅ is all good.
Common to white lamp to black.
This is a good example why you should call an electrician!!! This video just hooked it up wrong!
Did you really need to upload this video?
An Electrician yes I think he was forced to at gun point
These types of videos have helped me more times then I can count
This is bad for a step-by-step video. Not saying I need that..
bioin
Lmao oh now the commons to the hot leg on the Lang and the hot to neutral stop it
OMG WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOU PEOPLE. I’m sorry I’m not trying to be a troll. This video has been up for 8 years and you clearly don’t know what you are doing. Take this video down it is not educational. At the very least let the viewer know it’s a comedy. First you hook up both ballast and the lamp all together in the same wire nut. Then at the end you have it hooked up wrong. You say the wires are clearly marked. The you should have made sure the person doing the video could read. L stands for LOAD not lamp. Over 130,000 views. INCOMPETENT!