Chevy Tahoe Rear (Aux) HVAC Blend or Mode Actuator Problem
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Had to replace my rear mode actuator on my 2011 Tahoe. Easy enough, right?!? Wrong! Earlier models (and some of these) have them right on front of HVAC unit, so once you get to it, it’s easy. But not so fast...GM inexplicably used a “BEHR” unit that requires disconnecting lines, recapturing coolant, etc. All to replace a $60 part. I unraveled the mystery. GM document numbers included.
Confirmed, I successfully changed the actuator today, it’s tight but with a small 1/4 ratchet you can get to all three screws
About to dive into this repair myself.. are the screws you mentioned Phillip, torque, 6 point? ..do you happen to remember? I'm not in a good place to see them just yet
@@shayturnbow4148 don’t remember unfortunately
Just have to add, getting to this part is not impossible. There is a comment here, maybe several, that tell what you need. Along with tools, all you need is patience. Thanks OP, you may have given up, but you gave space for others to share what needs to be done. That deserves a big thumbs up!
Remove the (2) 7mm screws holding the HVAC to the sidewall.
Remove the tubing left of the channel select/main unit.
Carefully pull the HVAC unit away from the wall to see the actuators.
Actuators have 3 T20 screws and an electrical clip.
I got a Dewalt 90 degree 1/4” bit with the extra long extension and it made it very easy to unscrew in that tight space.
Thanks for your video because this is the only video I found with this odd Behr HVAC unit. It helped me a lot.
Somehow I missed this post... would have helped a ton! 😆 I think this unit is post 2011. I have a 2014 and the gm parts catalog only listed this one actuator part number. For mine it was part #15887322
Thanks a bunch, I followed your steps and worked for me.
I wish the original poster of this video would update it to show the work around information contained below, I watched the video and was ready to give up before I read this job can be done, learned from the posts below. Thanks to all of you for helping solve this pain in the butt issue. Thanks also for listing not only the part needed but also the tools needed to do this job.
Just finished the install of my rear heat actuator. Dorman Part # 604-184, the 3 screws holding the unit on are T15, there is little room but it can be easily done. I have a small ratcheting 1/4 wrench, this fit the T15 and took up no extra room so it was easy to unscrew the 3 screws and replace the unit. Took longer to take apart the interior to gain access than to replace this unit. Without the video tips and the notes posted below I may have not attempted this job. Thank You.
Thank you for sharing Eric. I have the same Behr unit in our 2013 Tahoe. I, like you, did some research and self diagnosing and found that the mode actuator (floor/head) was inoperable. Hot and cold switched perfectly. Because of your video, I opened up the panels and looked at the model I have before heading to the parts store or ordering the part. I found that I have the Behr unit and was a bit disappointed. Because mine was "stuck" on the floor mode, I took off the duct work and adjusted the door inside to a 50/50 position so we could have air coming from the floor as well as the ceiling vents. I know it's not a fix, but it gets us what we need without pulling out the entire unit to change an actuator. Thank you again for sharing and thank you for your time. 😃
The rear ac was stuck in Heat, while the front was blowing cold AC. I also have the Behr rear Unit. I changed the HVAC blend actuator today with help from the comments in this video. Used 1/4 socket wrench and thumb wheel ratchet. Worked like a champ. Took about 30 minutes. Thanks for the advice!
Thank you so much for this video. Only one that shows this stupid unit. Took about 10 minutes to pull bottom one out. Trying to make sure I buy the right one.. thanks again Buddy
I have a 2014 denali. It has this rear unit. I just changed a $40 part in less than 2 hours and saved $600 (dealership estimate). Tip: the front tube comes apart from the main body giving easier access to the actuator. I didn't notice that when taking the actuator out, but it made it a TON easier to put it back in.
I didn't disconnect the battery at first and it didn't work. You need to recalibrate the actuator to get it working. when you are done, disconnect the negative terminal for a minute or so. Then turn it on and leave it for a few minutes.
Thank you for the video, just changed the temp actuator on a 2011 Tahoe, could not have done it without this video….wasn’t easy but doable
I just replace my MODE ACTUATOR AUXILIARY on a BEHR and it was ((very simple!!))This dude is all wrong!! I remove the rear panels, removed the 2 7mm bolts and then I pulled off the air ducts. Pulled back the unit and use just the torque bit and bam!! 20 minute job and never had to touch my freon. This dude is nuts!!
Can you please share the part number?
Do you have a video clip of how you replaced the mode actuator auxiliary?
Excellent video! I'm in Memphis also (Bartlett). I've got the same issue. Luckily I had the Delphi part. Excellent job on this video.
This video helped me diagnose my issue, I ended up forcing the door open in the top vent, where both vents meet the unit, I opened it up. Not gonna change the actuator when all I need is AC in FL. If the passengers get cold, they can close the duct vent over their head lol
how were u able to do so
Very helpful sir. Thanks for take you the time to show us the print 👍🏽
7:32 shows the upper actuator or “Mode Actuator - Auxiliary” as described in the service manual. This actuator controls the upper and lower ventilation for the rear passengers. The 2nd actuator is just below the Mode actuator. The service manual refers to it as the “Air temperature actuator - Auxillary” is the one that switches between hot and cold air.
Both are accessible with 1/4 ratchet or thumb wheel ratchet.
Fortunately both actuators use the same part: “Rear Blend Door Actuator/Air temperature actuator - auxiliary OEM” GM part #15798229. Woory product. (Made in Korea). Or you can get the slightly cheaper aftermarket version: Dorman part #604-184 (Made in China). Both are poor quality IMO, so I guess pick your poison.
Thanks
hey there. i know this comment is from over a year ago but hoping you still get notifications on it. i’m having the same issue and i pulled over my cover in the back and mine is a Bosch. would these pieces you mentioned above work?
i have to take mine in for a recall (2013 model) as i’m getting ready to sell but i want to get this fixed for cheap before i do sell. if you see this please let me know. i’d be very grateful!
Take off the two bolts from the whole assembly to the truck, remove middle tube left of the blower assembly, 1/4 ratchet wrench and a t20 bit and you’re in and out with wiggle room from unbolting the top two bolts that hold the assembly to the truck (tahoe).
I have a 2011 Tahoe with this same issue, you’re the only video that shows this stupid design. I just made the door close off the foot blower since I can’t replace the part but at least my kids can get cool air on their faces. I did take the two screws out and I think there’s a chance you could get a tool back there but before I broke something I gave up.
Eric thanks so much for the video and yes I too was going crazy looking for it.
Thumbwheel ratchet works just fine. To get to the bottom screws, stick your hand underneath the ductwork by the wheel tub and use the thumb wheel ratchet as well. You can use a regular small 1/4in ratchet also. I just found the thumb wheel works better... Good luck to anyone that needs to swap theirs out. It's not hard at at all, it's just tedious work and be careful with the panels. Especially in the winter if you live in the colder regions. Plastic is easier to break in the cold than it is in the summer...
Excellent thanks
Excellent work! & great comments here. I would like to point out what you imply When the manufacturer makes something hard to work on. Like techs pay the manufacturer for it heh. Thanks Chevrolet I made so much $ last year on those mode/blend door motors that suck have some of my hard earned $ great job! do it again on the next model! let’s keep this thing going 😂
This was a really big help!!! Thanks
Hello great info, question. Which one is the actuator that controls the direction of the air flow? Bottom or top?
Did you ever find out i have the same problem
The one closest to the passenger rear door.
Top one 👍🏻 ok thanks just making sure
Thank you guys i got it fixed 🙏 it is the top one , the one closer to the passenger rear door like you said.
Hello, excellent information, questions what is the actuator that controls the temperature?
HI! did you end up replacing it yourself? hate that it happened right before vaca
you had me at "Trophy Husband"! Nice shirt, better video! Thank you!😆
Unfortunately I got same problem it’s blowing cold air at the front and hot air at rear side, I am just wondering if there is a fuse related to the actuator at the fuses box?? Please advise
Sorry man but if you take out those top two bolts out then go underneath and take two 10mm nuts off then you’ll be able to replace the actuator
Thank you so much, you help me so much.
Which models had behr vs delphi? i have 2012 yukon denali that after a dead battery, started blowing hot only in rear. I have done the recal sequence and nothing helps. If I have the behr....why couldn't you loosen the bolts and get a little clearance? Ive changed them in the 2003 models in the dash with hardly any room.
Thanks for the Info 🤘
Very helpful! Thank you
Any way to tell which one you have without taking it apart?
Did you happen to try the recalibration process first ? Check into that before you start taking things apart 👍
How to calibrate?
@@ghauriy look it up on CZcams for your vehicle
Get that boys hand back there with a hand tool.