I have been a nurse for over 30 years and by the grace of God saved a few lives. Truth be told , I have not always felt right about many of them as their state was a future of medical interventions. Now , saving a tractor ? I have felt pure joy in every single one of them ! I just purchased a $500 1966 David Brown 770 from a couple at church. Their grandfather passed away years ago. It was sitting in his field for 5 years. The old junker fired up after a few electric wires we twisted and fuel poured everywhere along with two batteries. The hydraulics don't work, the rear wheel wobbles, the other rim is rotted at the valve stem, every oil and filter needs a change. I was thinking of scrapping it. Then I started watching videos like yours and realized I am not the only guy out there that spends $5000 in the value of my time and another $1500 in parts and supplies to restore a $1500 tractor when it's all said and done. Are we fools ? Why do we do this ? I have done this at least 20 times ! Why I ask , Seriously why ???
Why? Because we can, and it's a passion, at least for me. Getting something running again and working makes me happy. Are we fools? Probably! Your comment is simply golden! Thank you very much for watching and I hope you can get that old tractor nursed back to health!
Excellent series of videos! No cheesy introductions, razzamatazz or annoying background music! Just straightforward instructions - clear and precise! Keep them coming! ❤😊
Thanks for the video, my bypass valve was put together in the wrong orientation by the last owner. Which was stopping three point from lifting heavier loads. Got it back together and is working a lot better 👍
I would to give you a big thank you to you Shane for your video I watched it over and over before I got enough nerve to order some parts from Barclays an after a month to get them I now have a working lift on my DB. 880 so a big thanks again and keep the vids coming !!!!
Hi Shane another good video, like the multi camera, your little ball thats missiing is 1/8"dia, any bearing supplier should have packs of individual balls, i got 10 for just over £2.😁 on the collar that you removed and wasn't shown on your parts diagram, mine also had an Oring between it and the plug below it, thats in the bottom of the chest.
Ok thanks, I'll check for that o-ring. Thanks for the size for the ball. Multi-cam is pretty cool in Resolve. The issue is I had a bunch of footage of my arm or body in the way on this one for the secondary cam. 🤦♂ Have to work on my placement.
Hi from 🇮🇪 , great video 👏 very clear and detailed. Quick query for you !! We put a front loader on our 996 with the necessary pipe work. The front loader works vise Vera sometimes times (as in , even with a heavy load - as your dropping it will shoot right back up with lever in decent mode) Wondering if you think if any of the valves in you video would be the cause ?
Lovely well explained video how much is Barry paying you to advertise his channel 😀. I've got 2 tips firstly when the the valve chest is in situ within the tractor after I've removed the dump valve and plate I pack rag all the way around the valve so as I remove the caps etc nothing can drop down inside the axle without the added extra work of trying to recover what's dropped down secondly I made up a tapered wooden plunger stick nice and long excellent for pushing down and twisting out the plunger works a treat everytime 😀
Ha! 🤣🤣 The water I was drinking nearly came out my nose when I read that! Thanks for tips, hadn't thought of lining the hole with rags. I tried the wooden dowel trick years ago on my hold valve too and it worked great. Thanks Jon!
Hi Shane. Excellent explanation. Is your valve chest an S2 or S3? I couldn't quite see on the video. I see it's stamped 67 so 1967. Does that agree with the age of your tractor? When I took mine out, I found that my valve chest was newer than the tractor! Must have been replaced at some time. I'm not as brave as you and Barry and bought a refurbished unit from Barclay Willliams. That's an S3 dated 9/72. I might ask Barclay whether he refurbishes them back to the original specification or some hybrid version.
Thanks David! My valve chest has S2 38249 /67 stamped on the bottom. My tractor serial is 498249 which puts it in the '65-'68 year range based on the dbtc listing of serial ranges and years. I'm very highly confident the valve chest is original to the tractor. It was bought new by my Grandfather and has been in the family ever since. I took out the chest and valves mainly to get the experience with it, video it, and see if the failure to hold issue I've been having was a dirty valve. The only real problem I have with the hydraulics was the very recent issue with not picking anything up (pump related I hope), the arms 'hiccuping' a bit and lift not holding up long at all when the tractor is just turned off. Arms leaked down immediately. Changing the hyd piston oring and backer last year helped but still leaked down and hiccuped a bit. I'm hoping the dirt in the hold relief valve was the culprit and it was holding it open a little. That was the only place I saw in the chest that was actually dirty. Everything else I took apart looked great other than a bit of wear blemishes on some of the valve plungers. Do you know the difference between S2 and S3 chests? I'm assuming its series number or something? Just curious now 😀
@@path.of.discovery No, the only differences I know of are based on the diagram you showed from the later Hydraulics service manual (Section V) showing S2-S4. I presume that apart from the internals, the drillings in the valve chest casting could be different too. That'll be a question for Ollek! My hydraulics also leaked down when I first got the tractor but a change of valve chest and ram piston seals has fixed it - not sure which (or both) was the culprit. Fingers crossed that fixes your problem. There can't be much else? Regarding your tractors age, you can roughly work it out using the "Summary of Design Changes" sections in the service manuals. According to section K regarding the transmission, ser. no 498101 was approximately March '67.
@@David.Monkhouse Ah!! I didn't make that connection with the 'S' number stamp and that diagram! Thanks a bunch for that. Doh! Makes total sense now. Thanks for all the detail! If the reseal of the pump and cleanup of the chest doesn't clear up those small issues, I'll likely just live with it until I can afford to maybe swap out the valve chest. You're right, not much else can be wrong.
Hi there and thanks for watching! I may video making another one in the future, but for now, the best place is Barry's video here: czcams.com/video/cyMrVTjFTEE/video.html He also does reassembly of the Spool and TCU here: czcams.com/video/bLIWkjkcUng/video.html
I've remade the tool and this time I go through the measurements. czcams.com/video/Q0OISQ3_6hc/video.html Hope this helps some with at least the tool part.
I just pulled my bypass valve to find that there wasn't a nylon screen inside, just the washer with tiny hole, cleaned it and put it back in and it runs strong and quick, go figure, I probably do need to get the screen though
I got most of the o-rings from the Oring Store LLC online. Gaskets I either made from gasket material or sourced from David Brown Parts LTD in England.
I did not see the link for that Barry guys video do u have a link and what david brown forum r u getting all this information from mine is the same in some way but completely different I have no cover to get to the valves I have 2 levers one right of the seat one know on the front and no tcu valve on top on the left of the seat there is one know turn it one way the 3point go's up turn it the other way and the loader works but the loader is really slow so I think something is stuck in there not letting full pressure going the loader
The forum I refer to in many of my videos is now gone. See this video for more: czcams.com/video/9sZKBdPCuNU/video.htmlsi=Lj-yAm6pB8SBvBSk Barry's videos are here: czcams.com/video/bLIWkjkcUng/video.htmlsi=NfGORZZxi5sdtQgW czcams.com/video/cyMrVTjFTEE/video.htmlsi=WAewBloJJcQTXtHE
@@path.of.discovery unfortunately…. Not. I’ve taken it out and put it in twice in the last two days. The problem is, as with almost all David Brown’s, the three points lift no matter what. Every valve including the latching valve is loose and sliding. I set the spool valve with a dial micrometer as the TCU. All gaps have been measured with feeler’s. It has me puzzled. I did read something about the latch valve “sleeve” So that’s something I’m going to look into.
@@johnscott7128 Wow that's a lot. Have you posted about the issues over on the David Brown Tractor Forum? Some of the folks on there are absolutely experts on these tractors and could possibly point you in the right direction. dbtc.co.uk/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=1
The ball bearing for hold valve is 1/8" and I have a packet of them which I could send you a few, if you want to drop me an email. I made the washer with 3 holes but I had center hole and 3, 0.5mm holes round the outside. My hydraulic pump is not repairable. It will be on my chanel in a few weeks time or it"s on my Instagram link top of my chanel. M
Thanks a lot for offer Marshall! I've actually found some ball bearings locally I went and picked up a couple of days ago. Sorry about the pump! I'm half expecting mine to not make much pressure. I've got some scoring where the gears dug a small trench. But I'll test it anyway..
Google says this translates to "Please Arabize the section because we are interested". That's interesting because I was thinking that the subtitles were automatic. Apparently they aren't and I need to research that a bit to make other languages available somehow. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!
I have been a nurse for over 30 years and by the grace of God saved a few lives. Truth be told , I have not always felt right about many of them as their state was a future of medical interventions. Now , saving a tractor ? I have felt pure joy in every single one of them ! I just purchased a $500 1966 David Brown 770 from a couple at church. Their grandfather passed away years ago. It was sitting in his field for 5 years. The old junker fired up after a few electric wires we twisted and fuel poured everywhere along with two batteries. The hydraulics don't work, the rear wheel wobbles, the other rim is rotted at the valve stem, every oil and filter needs a change. I was thinking of scrapping it. Then I started watching videos like yours and realized I am not the only guy out there that spends $5000 in the value of my time and another $1500 in parts and supplies to restore a $1500 tractor when it's all said and done. Are we fools ? Why do we do this ? I have done this at least 20 times ! Why I ask , Seriously why ???
Why? Because we can, and it's a passion, at least for me. Getting something running again and working makes me happy. Are we fools? Probably! Your comment is simply golden! Thank you very much for watching and I hope you can get that old tractor nursed back to health!
Excellent series of videos! No cheesy introductions, razzamatazz or annoying background music! Just straightforward instructions - clear and precise! Keep them coming! ❤😊
Thank you, I really appreciate it! Will do!
Thanks for the video, my bypass valve was put together in the wrong orientation by the last owner. Which was stopping three point from lifting heavier loads. Got it back together and is working a lot better 👍
Glad you got it all sorted out! Hopefully the video helped a bit. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment!
I would to give you a big thank you to you Shane for your video I watched it over and over before I got enough nerve to order some parts from Barclays an after a month to get them I now have a working lift on my DB. 880 so a big thanks again and keep the vids coming !!!!
Yay!! I'm happy you were able to get it all sorted out! Thank you so much for the kind words!
Les escribo desde Uruguay. Tengo un problema con el hidraulico. Y estos videos me han servido de.mucha utilidad
I'm glad they've been useful. Thank you for watching!
I do appreciate this work. I own 2 working DB, one of them is the 885 model with, I think the same valve assembly. Great explanation.
Thanks for watching!
I agree with you all ❤
Thanks for watching and commenting!
What I am looking forward for is the haudralic while ploughing is not going deeper the t.c.u.in the depth position
Hi Shane another good video, like the multi camera, your little ball thats missiing is 1/8"dia, any bearing supplier should have packs of individual balls, i got 10 for just over £2.😁 on the collar that you removed and wasn't shown on your parts diagram, mine also had an Oring between it and the plug below it, thats in the bottom of the chest.
Ok thanks, I'll check for that o-ring. Thanks for the size for the ball. Multi-cam is pretty cool in Resolve. The issue is I had a bunch of footage of my arm or body in the way on this one for the secondary cam. 🤦♂ Have to work on my placement.
No Oring in the Non-Return Valve bore for me. Will do a bit of research on that.
I LIKE BARRY BUT YOU EXPLAIN THINGS VERY WELL!
Thanks!
@@path.of.discovery do you teach?
Hi from 🇮🇪 , great video 👏 very clear and detailed. Quick query for you !! We put a front loader on our 996 with the necessary pipe work. The front loader works vise Vera sometimes times (as in , even with a heavy load - as your dropping it will shoot right back up with lever in decent mode)
Wondering if you think if any of the valves in you video would be the cause ?
Lovely well explained video how much is Barry paying you to advertise his channel 😀. I've got 2 tips firstly when the the valve chest is in situ within the tractor after I've removed the dump valve and plate I pack rag all the way around the valve so as I remove the caps etc nothing can drop down inside the axle without the added extra work of trying to recover what's dropped down secondly I made up a tapered wooden plunger stick nice and long excellent for pushing down and twisting out the plunger works a treat everytime 😀
Ha! 🤣🤣 The water I was drinking nearly came out my nose when I read that! Thanks for tips, hadn't thought of lining the hole with rags. I tried the wooden dowel trick years ago on my hold valve too and it worked great. Thanks Jon!
Hello nice nice video
I have a question
I see that you have the select lever on tcu mode..but why is it not in the middle?
Kind regards from Germany
Hi Shane. Excellent explanation. Is your valve chest an S2 or S3? I couldn't quite see on the video. I see it's stamped 67 so 1967. Does that agree with the age of your tractor? When I took mine out, I found that my valve chest was newer than the tractor! Must have been replaced at some time. I'm not as brave as you and Barry and bought a refurbished unit from Barclay Willliams. That's an S3 dated 9/72. I might ask Barclay whether he refurbishes them back to the original specification or some hybrid version.
Thanks David! My valve chest has S2 38249 /67 stamped on the bottom. My tractor serial is 498249 which puts it in the '65-'68 year range based on the dbtc listing of serial ranges and years. I'm very highly confident the valve chest is original to the tractor. It was bought new by my Grandfather and has been in the family ever since. I took out the chest and valves mainly to get the experience with it, video it, and see if the failure to hold issue I've been having was a dirty valve. The only real problem I have with the hydraulics was the very recent issue with not picking anything up (pump related I hope), the arms 'hiccuping' a bit and lift not holding up long at all when the tractor is just turned off. Arms leaked down immediately. Changing the hyd piston oring and backer last year helped but still leaked down and hiccuped a bit. I'm hoping the dirt in the hold relief valve was the culprit and it was holding it open a little. That was the only place I saw in the chest that was actually dirty. Everything else I took apart looked great other than a bit of wear blemishes on some of the valve plungers.
Do you know the difference between S2 and S3 chests? I'm assuming its series number or something? Just curious now 😀
@@path.of.discovery No, the only differences I know of are based on the diagram you showed from the later Hydraulics service manual (Section V) showing S2-S4. I presume that apart from the internals, the drillings in the valve chest casting could be different too. That'll be a question for Ollek! My hydraulics also leaked down when I first got the tractor but a change of valve chest and ram piston seals has fixed it - not sure which (or both) was the culprit. Fingers crossed that fixes your problem. There can't be much else? Regarding your tractors age, you can roughly work it out using the "Summary of Design Changes" sections in the service manuals. According to section K regarding the transmission, ser. no 498101 was approximately March '67.
@@David.Monkhouse Ah!! I didn't make that connection with the 'S' number stamp and that diagram! Thanks a bunch for that. Doh! Makes total sense now. Thanks for all the detail! If the reseal of the pump and cleanup of the chest doesn't clear up those small issues, I'll likely just live with it until I can afford to maybe swap out the valve chest. You're right, not much else can be wrong.
Good man you're self a great video
Thanks for watching!
Hello.. tahnks for the video. can you do the video how to make the specail tool and spool valve assembly. Thanks
Hi there and thanks for watching! I may video making another one in the future, but for now, the best place is Barry's video here: czcams.com/video/cyMrVTjFTEE/video.html
He also does reassembly of the Spool and TCU here: czcams.com/video/bLIWkjkcUng/video.html
I've remade the tool and this time I go through the measurements. czcams.com/video/Q0OISQ3_6hc/video.html Hope this helps some with at least the tool part.
I just pulled my bypass valve to find that there wasn't a nylon screen inside, just the washer with tiny hole, cleaned it and put it back in and it runs strong and quick, go figure, I probably do need to get the screen though
Yeah, I'd recommend getting one. David Brown Parts LTD out of England carries them, but you may can find on eBay or Amazon.
Where did you source all the parts for This repair project? Like all the gaskets and orings and such? Thanks
I got most of the o-rings from the Oring Store LLC online. Gaskets I either made from gasket material or sourced from David Brown Parts LTD in England.
I have a 1210 David brown my spool value stuck up, is it the same unit as in video? Thanks
If it has the selectamatic hydraulic system in it (which I *think* a 1210 does), then yes.
I did not see the link for that Barry guys video do u have a link and what david brown forum r u getting all this information from mine is the same in some way but completely different I have no cover to get to the valves I have 2 levers one right of the seat one know on the front and no tcu valve on top on the left of the seat there is one know turn it one way the 3point go's up turn it the other way and the loader works but the loader is really slow so I think something is stuck in there not letting full pressure going the loader
The forum I refer to in many of my videos is now gone. See this video for more: czcams.com/video/9sZKBdPCuNU/video.htmlsi=Lj-yAm6pB8SBvBSk
Barry's videos are here:
czcams.com/video/bLIWkjkcUng/video.htmlsi=NfGORZZxi5sdtQgW
czcams.com/video/cyMrVTjFTEE/video.htmlsi=WAewBloJJcQTXtHE
I’m working on the same thing at this moment
Hope it goes well! Thanks for watching!
@@path.of.discovery unfortunately…. Not. I’ve taken it out and put it in twice in the last two days. The problem is, as with almost all David Brown’s, the three points lift no matter what. Every valve including the latching valve is loose and sliding. I set the spool valve with a dial micrometer as the TCU. All gaps have been measured with feeler’s. It has me puzzled. I did read something about the latch valve “sleeve” So that’s something I’m going to look into.
@@johnscott7128 Wow that's a lot. Have you posted about the issues over on the David Brown Tractor Forum? Some of the folks on there are absolutely experts on these tractors and could possibly point you in the right direction. dbtc.co.uk/phpBB3/viewforum.php?f=1
Hello again. Mine have the dump valve. Can I cancel it and stay just hold valve? How I do that.
Not sure about this one. You'd have to obtain the right components. I don't have a dump valve on mine, just the cap, spring, and hold valve itself.
How do I go for my plough to be deeper while ploughing from Fiji islands
Hmmm. I'd start by making sure the plow cutting edges are sharp and not worn. Sometimes the ground is just too hard and the plow just won't cut.
The ball bearing for hold valve is 1/8" and I have a packet of them which I could send you a few, if you want to drop me an email. I made the washer with 3 holes but I had center hole and 3, 0.5mm holes round the outside. My hydraulic pump is not repairable. It will be on my chanel in a few weeks time or it"s on my Instagram link top of my chanel. M
Thanks a lot for offer Marshall! I've actually found some ball bearings locally I went and picked up a couple of days ago. Sorry about the pump! I'm half expecting mine to not make much pressure. I've got some scoring where the gears dug a small trench. But I'll test it anyway..
نرجو تعرىب المقطع لاءننا مهتمون
Google says this translates to "Please Arabize the section because we are interested". That's interesting because I was thinking that the subtitles were automatic. Apparently they aren't and I need to research that a bit to make other languages available somehow. Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching!