It should be standard that if a dump trailer has a GVWR of a certain weight it should be able to lift that much(minus the weight of the trailer) no matter how its loaded.
If appropriately loaded I'd say. Put 16k of lead right at the front and you're likely to exceed the hitch weight. But I agree, if you are appropriately loaded you should be able to dump at max weight. Lots of dump trailers can't - it's sad. What I find pathetic is they can't even cite any capacities. Didn't someone engineer that? Or did they just slap a bunch of crap together. It takes some math but it's not that complicated. You should be able to cite a design weight the system should lift. If it's just a little heavy on the nose you can mound up over the axles but I honestly thing that's the wrong setup with the wrong parts. I could respect it if they said it's designed to haul 16k but only dump 10k unless you upgrade to... But it sounds like they have no idea what it can do - and they built it. I hope the right person finds it and it fills their needs. House cleanouts would probably be a good fit because it's bulk, not weight. Material definitely not...
But thats not even correct. The GVWR is based off the axles and wheel/tire capacity. Not all the weight is on the axles but they sometimes go overkill just to be safe. Has nothing to do with the lift capacity. A 21k gvwr trailer shouldn't be able to dump that much because you have a payload limit. Take the 21k gvwr(just using that number as an example) subtract your empty weight and that's your payload that the trailer should be able to dump.
@Flying C Land I agree I drive quad axle dump truck and you can’t just fill it up with gravel or dirt or even sand especially if it’s wet to the brim of the box and not expect to be way overloaded. I mean 1 yard of dirt can weigh over a ton. It doesn’t take long to become overloaded and unable to dump.
I remember quite a few years ago, an outfit was making trailers, and the dump was set to only dump the maximum load, that was it! Everybody was complaining because they all were over loading the trailers, and had to shovel a bunch before it would dump! They eventually learned what their max load looks like! I would have adjusted the pressure relief on the hydraulics, but you may bend something, so there is always a risk!!
I’ll take two 10k axles all day long over three 7k or 8K axles. Three axles adds way more torquing and tire sprag as you tun, which is double trouble to a set of already weak axles. 17.5” wheels/tires are easy to find with 10k axles too. You just never have to worry with 10k axles in comparison, specifically for very heavy duty work and conditions that a dump trailer will be prone to.
Your failures = your wisdom = more informed decisions for your viewers. Thank you again Courtney for being so transparent. I also appreciate your diplomacy. Let the product speak for itself, good or bad.
Courtney, I ordered a Diamond C dump trailer from TNJ in Pelzer, South Carolina. They were VERY clear about limitations of dirt, gravel, other heavy loads, explaining everything in great detail, making sure my dump trailer experience was excellent. Based on my needs they recommended certain options, told me the ones I didn't need, taking as much time as I needed to make the right choice. Your bad experience was 100% on a lousy dealer not communicating properly. They was you were treated gripes me to no end! Thumbs up.
the dump trailer should have been equipped with a center front Mount two stage hydraulic ram it will lift much more weight but of course it cost a little more
I have a diamond C dump trailer with the telescoping hoist in front and I absolutely love it and it's always dumped for me even when they load me heavy in the front. Love the videos.
Yes. Telescoping hoist is the way to go. May raise your bed height. But they can dump anything… Scissors lift are such a hassle. Yes, they are safer when dumping on an angle. But, unless the trailer is mostly empty or all the weight in the back it doesn’t ever dump.
I have buddies with Diamond C dump trailers and some who dont. From what ive seen is that most of them have the front telescopic lift. The guys who have a scissor lift like the one you have on your trailer have smaller trailers than the guys with the telescopic lifts. Because of the location of the scissor lift it struggles to lift heavy loads. Ive never seen the telescopic lift have a hard time dumping. I wouldnt say its the trailers fault but i'd say that its what lift system that you have gotten.
Just to add what I said on the other dump trailer video. Another thing you had against you is the scissor lift. The scissor lift is the weakest king of lift. You would have been better with the two belly cylinders, or best yet, the telescopic cylinder in the front. But I stand by saying that is a very large trailer for dirt.
Best honest review I’ve seen in a long time. I keep seeing your videos pop up and decided to click on this vid. Somebody is going to buy that trailer. I do not mind buying when I know the problems. I hate to find problems later on. Always thought Diamond C was top of the line. I used to be a truck driver. Keep up the good work!!! We need to make honesty the best policy cool again.
Hey Courtney, I’ve made the same South of the border trailer mistake as well. You mentioned your PJ and big Tex had rust, and hadn’t lived up to expectations as you’d hoped. For someone that uses a trailer as much as you do I’d like to offer a recommendation. We have several Midsotas, Fellings and Tomasters at work. Some of our Towmasters are from the 80’s and all look great for their age. They are all made in MN where they know what winter is and their paint process is 2nd to none. The Felling or towmaster offer hot dipped galvanizing so no rust there. Structurally, any one of these are a waaay better built trailer than the south of the border brands. As far as pricing goes, the Midsota is close to a PJ Felling and Towmaster are more. Hope this helps in your trailer search! Keep up the informative videos!
We had a similar type of dump trailer on the farm. My grandfather created a hydraulic auger that he would engage when dirt and other material stayed wedged in when it was fully lifted. It was a pain in the ass and I was so happy when a local landscaper bought it from us. We bought one half the size and even with the extra trips required, I would take it over that tri axel anyday.
I'm not surprised the company didn't give you a specific number. The answer they gave you is the answer any engineer should give you. The absolute maximum the dump will lift is dependent on a number of variables. No one would put a number on it. That only sets them up so that when you supposedly put that amount on the trailer and it won't dump, then you will come back and complain that it won't meet the numbers that they said it would. Suffice it to say, I'm sure the dump system is more than capable of dumping the rated capacity of the trailer and then some. I think the bigger question is how much material did you put on it? You said 13 buckets of dirt. I don't know the capacity of the bucket but given that you have the largest compact track loader Deere makes anyway, I'm going to assume that the capacity of the bucket (heaping) is around 0.85 to 1.0 yards. For the sake of calculations, I'll assume that not all the buckets were heaping full and you averaged 0.75 yards per bucket. At about 3,400 pounds per yard, that's in the neighborhood of 32,000 pounds on a trailer with a rated payload capacity of around 16,500? And if you were using the largest bucket and all of the loads were heaping, that number could push up around 44,000 pounds. No company is going to design a dump system that would handle 2 to 3 times the rated capacity of the trailer. That's just over kill and they couldn't sell them at a competitive price. I don't see this as being on the trailer manufacturer at all. Maybe there was miscommunication with the sales staff at the time of purchase, I don't know. Probably a bunch of assumptions made. This trailer looks like it was design as a multi-purpose trailer and the length and side heights were designed around what was needed to haul equipment or construction debris or something like that. Sure, it can be used to haul dirt but never fully loaded. Seems to me that an erroneous assumption was made about how much the trailer could haul was limited based on the volume of trailer, not the weight rating of the trailer. I don't see this as a manufacturer's issue at all, but that's just my opinion.
Well... Nice Try! There is Nothing Wrong with Over building with lift capacity. I think it should have 2 hydraulic cylinders, Plus it would give it more stability for dumping.
Seriously???? I'm sure that the lift capacity of the cylinder that is there is more than the rated capacity of the trailer. It's just not THAT much more than the rated capacity. However, let's run with your 2nd cylinder idea. First, the cylinder itself is probably $2000. You'll need additional steel for another mounting point on the frame and lift point on the box (plus labor to install). Not to mention probable upgrades to the hydraulic pump. Not to mention the potential increase for binding things up if the 2 cylinders aren't moving exactly in sync. So, we've now added $4000 to the price of the trailer and we have the capacity to lift let's say somewhere in the 40,000# range......And we have a trailer that will fail within a year. I'm sure the axles are rated at 7000# or 8000# so if you are constantly loading it with 40,000#, those will fail prematurely. The leaf springs of course also probably aren't rated for 40,000# either so they would need to be upgraded. Who knows what additional bracing would be needed on both the box and the frame to be able to deal with that kind on weight continuously. Finally, I'm sure the gooseneck connector is rated at 25,000# so there's another potential failure point that has to be upgraded. By the time you get all that upgraded, you are at a price point of $60-$70k (or more). And of course that's just to get the trailer to handlet those kinds of weights. Even 1 ton pickups aren't rated to pull that kind of weight with about 37,000# being the highest rated towing capacity. As a result, you are going to end up causing damage to your truck if you try to tow that much routinely. It just doesn't make any sense to even think about going there.
More information from the company themselves. And I'm sure any dump trailer manufacturer would tell you the same thing. czcams.com/video/BS9jz-IZDEE/video.html
You can have an equipment sales business without having a clue about how to use all the equipment, especially new equipment. I think you are right, way overloaded. Should have checked this calculation before complaining which was another mistake.
In my opinion a dump trailer with a front 2 or 3 stage telescopic ram is best and most mechanically beneficial as the pivot point is at the rear and the lift point is all of the way forward. Upgraded tires are always the best choice.
Coming from someone who used to hook/unhook a gooseneck 3-4 times a day every day.... set the bottom of the Gooseneck lock just slightly below the top of the Gooseneck ball every time you take it off(1/4" to 1/2"). You will be able to drive away and your truck will slightly compress as the ball gets pushed down but you will also feel the same effect when you back in to it giving you a positive feeling that you are on the ball.
Had a friend who bought a 26 ft dump trailer for his semi several yrs ago and told them to fill it with rock, well they did! About 69,000lbs worth 😂 truck and trailer was over 35,000lbs empty. So I think he was about 104,000 lbs or so. He learned just because it'll hold it doesn't always mean you can fill it full!
Something to consider is if you have a skid steer that you want to move in a dump trailer, you’ll need at least a 12’ long box so it fits in the box when loaded. Most skids steer with a bucket is 11.5’ long.
I wouldn't consider any shorter than a 14'. We put a Bobcat T76 in with forks and the door barely closed. Plus you really want some wiggle room with equipment for weight distribution.
Absolutely thanks for telling us the ins and outs of the trailer. A trailer of this caliber needs to be far overrated to handle anything caught in there. Garbage that they sell these things like that. Sad
Here’s the thing though, most trailers can lift more than their GVWR. It was either Diamond C or Texas Pride, but they took their scissor hoist, dual ram, and telescopic piston loaded to see what they could do. Now, scissors are quick, but not strong. It lifted just over the max of the trailer weight. Dual ram (2 pistons underneath) lifted more, but much slower. They both struggle with loads at the front. The telescopic crushed both of them lifting nearly 2x the trailer capacity. Now, in the manufacturer’s defense, our boy here loaded around 11 yards of soil at roughly 2,200 lbs per yard. Soooooo, I get it. Should be able to dump to the top, but high walls are mostly for tree limbs, debris removal, and bulky, less dense objects. It’s a lot to ask of a trailer to pick up 24-25k when it says don’t go over 16. However, I do agree. For simple material moving around the lot a 2 axle, 14 ft, 14-16 GVWR would be a better fit. I’d go bumper pull so you can use both trucks comfortably.
Are there any dump trailers that are suitable for hauling crushed rock only? I view dirt as light stuff I have been looking for one to replace a single axle dump truck but I am starting to think its not a good path. All I do it run gravel to the farm from rock quarry
@@jeffstrains4014 it depends. So you gotta remember, a yard of dirt weighs around 2,200 lbs. and your typical yard of gravel is usually 2,500. So we’re talking 300 lbs difference. Not really enough to break the machine here. Plus, it depends on the single axle dump truck you’re replacing. If we’re talking some F-350/450/550 chassis cab that can handle 3-5 tons, then any dual axle trailer. If we’re talking a class 5-6 medium duty truck doing 6-8 tons, then you’re more limited to diamond c, Texas pride, and I think big Tex would be your best bets. Like I said, depends on how much you’re doing, but if you have a stout enough truck 1 ton SRW/DRW w/ diesel, then you can get a trailer rated to 20-24k GVWR that weighs around 6k-7k so you’re looking at 7-9 tons of payload. I’m pretty sure that’s about the same as the truck.
@@miltonzinn8732 Its an old 80's GMC 6500 I normally grab 12 or 13 tons depending on how they load. Pulling back over the scales around 34 to 6k. From what I have seen I think just getting another single axle truck would be my best bet. Can get some decent trucks for the price of these trailers.
@@jeffstrains4014 yeah, if you’re going that heavy, I’d probably stick with the GMC. All things considered to move that amount of rock, you’d need the 30k rated trailer (around $35k and the truck to pull it starting $46k) for a 2wd reg cab diesel.
Just for anyone who is interested in this trailer or size dump trailer, so you are aware, the rated cargo capacity is said to be 16,780 lbs (trailer weight is 7,220 lbs) for a total Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 24,000 lbs. The trailer has (3) 7,000 lb axles (so 21,000 lbs of the total load can be on the axles), they do not tell you how much weight of the empty trailer is being supported on the axles, and how much is transferred on to the truck by the gooseneck (GN) (would be nice if they stated that though) but they are assuming if you load it to max weight capacity 24,000 lbs (load + trailer) that you will have 3,000 lbs of that load supported on the truck by the GN. You have to figure out how that fits in the trailer without overloading either the axles or the GN (they do not tell you the max rating of the GN as far as I know.....). With the length of that trailer and the location of the axles, I would think a lot of that 3,000 lbs for the GN is already there, guessing around 2k of it, again though, they don't tell you that (errrrrr). From looking at equal rated and length equipment trailers (from other manufacturers) a GN appears to reduce the capacity of the trailers by about 1k (based on trailers that have GVWR's equal to their combined axles......) so I assume the GN adds about 1,000 lbs to the trailer, and all that steel in the dump box and frame between the front axle and the GN probably adds 750 to 1,000 more pounds (again, they don't tell you...... but that is a MUCH longer trailer than the typical 12 or 14 ft dump trailer, in front of the axles....). So you need to try to keep the load as centered over the axles as you can, with it slightly biased forward of the center axle (for every 8 lbs, you want 1 of those lbs on the GN, though it already has a lot of that weight there....). Since there is not a lot of room behind the rear axle, and a WHOLE LOT MORE room in front of the front axle, I would assume loading centered over the axles till you get to the last scoop, then put that at the front of your load and you will likely be good. This is assuming dense material like dirt, sand or stone. While materials that are not as dense (have a lot more airspace in the pile) like mulch, branches, mixed trash can likely be put in more haphazardly, I would still load it centered over the axles till you nearly run out of room, then load forward into the trailer (the rear of the trailer has to lift a lot less to dump than the front of the trailer, so weight in the front of the trailer is a LOT harder for the hydraulics to lift). Now onto weight of materials, they all vary a bit and can vary a lot more when wet! My dump trailer has a little label inside the cargo box that lists "estimated weights of materials" Coal 2,400 lbs per yard Firewood 1,134 lbs per yard * unseasoned red oak, one cord equals 4.74 cubic yards Mulch 750 lbs per yard Sand 2,600 lbs per yard ** average weight of moist sand Slate 2,400 lbs per yard Stone, crushed 2,700 lbs per yard Topsoil 2,400 lbs per yard *** average weight of moist topsoil "these weights are only to be used as estimates.......hada hada hada....." We'll go with "moist" topsoil here , just for the example. 1 cubic yard is 27 cubic feet, or 3'x3'x3'. Assuming this and other dump trailers like it is 7' wide and 4' tall walls on the inside, filled to the brime, straight across the top, every 1 ft of trailer length is 28 cubic feet (so assuming there is a little less at each edge of the top, 27 cu. ft. or 1 cubic yard per foot of length of the trailer, 1 yard per foot of trailer for short). With the "rated cargo capacity" of 16,780 lbs, "moist" topsoil at 2,400 lbs/yd would be 6.99 yards or ~ 7 yards. So 1 yd/ft of trailer means 7 ft of trailer, full to the top would max out the capacity of that 20' trailer, or 14' half full of that 20' trailer (assuming this for on the road would be a risky idea as you have not given yourself any leaway and the DOT does not care about estimates, they have calibrated scales to fie you with.....), doing this on your own property is safe to assume you can push this number some depending on how "moist" the soil is..... But hopefully this shows how EMPTY the trailer will likely look when loaded with a dense material like topsoil, sand or stone. This should all be centered as much as possible over the axles..... Now if you are doing this where you will not be "on the road", and going less than 35 mph, I would load this all as far back as possible in the trailer, especially if you are loading it near "capacity", tongue weight won't matter at slow speed, not on the road and on "fairly level" ground (backing down a slope, you don't want the trailer tongue or GN here, lifting the rear of the truck off the ground.....). That will make the load "less work" for the hydraulics to lift. Now, how much is a cubic yard, or "yard", by the "bucket". Depends on the size of the bucket and how "full" the bucket is. Apparently, the way they measure bucket capacity varies some but usually it goes buy a "struck" bucket, which I think the ASTM defines as straight across from the bucket tip to the top of the back of the bucket, so definitely less than a "heaping" bucket. John Deere's specs say the 333G would use a 84" bucket as standard (different styles of buckets hold different amounts so take this part with a "grain of salt"), so assuming a 84" tooth bucket, they list a "struck" capacity of 0.55 cu. yds. and a "heaped" capacity of 0.78 cu. yds. or 14.85 cubic feet and 21.2 cubic feet. So 12.7 "struck" buckets or 9 "heaping" buckets to get to 7 "yards" (don't remember from the other video how many bucket loads, etc.....) but they need to all be as far back in that trailer as possible. Anyways, this is not directed at Courtney, just hopefully some useful information for anyone who managed to get through all this and has an interest in dump trailers (or this dump trailer), there is quite a bit "more-than-meets-the-eye" when it comes to dump trailers, especially when it comes to GN's and other long versions (16' for example). The manufactures like to push the "specs" to have big numbers and the dealer should really be more informed about them and make sure their customer is as informed as possible (my dealer did not go over any of this either.... though mine is much smaller and lighter). (this comment really got away from me, it wasn't supposed to be this long winded 😂) Have a good one, after all, it has to get better after reading all of this....🤣
It changes far more than you would ever guess based on how it is loaded. I have moved a lot of material in a dump trailer and even on a 14ft bumper pull, it can easily be over a 2000lb of variance even on a much smaller trailer than yours. You are dumping on a fulcrum, so forward weight vs back weight has a huge effect on dumping capability. The more tail heavy you are the easier it will dump, but of course you have to have a distribution that will tow safely as well.
Good advice on upgrading tires. I think you forgot to mention make sure you have a spare on every trailer. That's my biggest pet peeve. Its crazy so see all the guys out there with zero spares on a trailer then you see 'em stranded or parked on the road on a busy holiday to boot. I keep mine on a tire carrier or in case of a cargo, its mounted in the front Vee section. Last thing a guy needs is to be stuck with a flat in BFE and its rainy on a late night or holiday when your odds of finding a tire place to come help is slim. Then risk leaving trailer on the road when anyone with a spare could come by and take it home.
Yes, with duals, I'd suggest two spares as if one goes, by the time it's noticed, the other tyre is possibly at the point of failure, too, even past that point. It also means you have the tyres you WANT, not whatever the tyre shop has in that size.
12 or 14 foot is the limits for dumping heavy stuff……. I figure it just needs to be big enough that the loaders at the quarry don’t have to worry about spilling out the sides when they’re dumping their bucket into your trailer.
I love your videos but I feel like this is user error purchasing a dump trailer with high sides does not mean if you feel up to the top with extremely heavy material no matter what dump trailer you buy with 4 or 6 foot sides you will not be able to fill it all the way with gravel there was a video put out by Texas pride trailer which shows is 7 x 14 dump trailer with 6 foot walls filled to the top with gravel and it weighs 40,000 pounds
I don't think I ever shirked responsibility, as I claimed it was my error in this video and the prior about it. Definitely know there must be trailers out that there can do that kind of things since there are dump trucks that do it!
Of course it was user error. Maybe you didn't watch the video, but I clearly explain why I'm stating all of this so the next buyer is educated. That's what a saleman should do on a $30,000 trailer purchase. I told the salesman my plans, he made no mention of the deceiving nature of the trailer, or how it can't lift anymore than a trailer a third of the price. No stickers anywhere on the trailer stating how much it will lift. Diamond C doesn't even know how much it'll lift. A complete lack of information from the manufacturer and dealer. Yeah, in hindsight, I would have drilled them hard on those questions ahead of time.
@@GoodWorksTractors I did watch the entire video like I do with most of your videos. And I do agree that the dealer did not communicate the limitations of the trailer correctly
My $0.02: It looks like you had quite a lot of material in there. Jacob on the Diamond C YT channel mentions that having the 24" sides is plenty high when hauling soil and rock. Anyway, I agree the telescopic model probably would have had an easier time lifting in that situation. Didn't help the the material was sticky, and wouldn't slide back when dumping.
I have a Diamond C Low Profile Dump Trailer- Bumper Pull. I think Diamond C has a great product. There paint is excellent. I’ve been able to haul and dump everything I’ve needed to. I use mine daily for hauling firewood. Diamond C does sell single cylinder lifts.
I had a tri axle dump trailer and sold it. Because of my driving habits in backing up the left front tire would take a lot of wear because of turning while backing up. It does not back up the same as a tandem axle, it had the same hydraulic cylinder as the lighter weight models as well. You are correct it hauls heavy but dumps about the same as any other dump trailer. good video.
Thanks for sharing your experience, sorry it wasn't great news. I have an 18 footer, dual axle, with two cylinders on each side. Things I have learned: 1. I can load it for bear. But I am careful with how the dirt gets loaded, a little more to the rear, but not tongue light. 2. I like the old school side mount hydraulics. They tend to lift more than a single and they are more stable on an incline or where you can't get it level to dump. Shouldn't have any trouble selling that one, its a nice trailer.
You’re absolutely right! They build those things not with the consumers best interest in mind. I instinctively know this just by looking at it. It is not a dump truck. I also know that a yard of the material like dirt rocks gravel weights in the neighbourhood of 2500 pounds, give or take for the moisture content. If you’ve dealt with any kind of volume in those materials you will know how much space it takes up and can quickly calculate how many tons you have in front of your cylinder lifting device. Forgive me if this sounds rude. I had to find this out the hard way. Almost the same way. Here’s a way to recon it. Most hydraulics generate psi in the thousands For convenience 1800 is a go to. The ram pressure is also easy to figure out. The area of a 4” circle 12.57* times 1800 is 22,626 lbs of push divide by 2500 lbs per yard is about 9 yard on a straight push. Here’s the catch ! A short cylinder’s ram load is reduced by the mechanical advantage to get it higher in the air to dump. It’s a shame the dealers don’t know this. When the dump is all the way up, stand a ways off (25ft) perpendicular to the unit, look at the cylinder fully extended now compare that to the total height of the box. Not the front but in line with the cylinder Recon how many times the extended cylinder can fit in that distance. divide 22,626 by that number. Say 1.5. You can lift 6 yards at that point. 162 cu ft or 12”x12” It of course it would be less because of the weight of the box and anything in the front of that point but it gives you an idea. Nothing worse that having to shovel it out! *Ask Siri she’s a wonderful Lady and will do all those calculation for you.
What a nice setup with the triple axle. I did tons of research on which lifting option works best. For dirt and gravel the front telescoping is the way to go. Not sure why the dealer didnt explained this.
Look at the iron bull 14k 8x16 deck over dump. It has drop sides that allows side loading. Overbuilt dump ram. Best trailer I have ever owned and I’ve had a bunch.
I really like Diamond C trailers, but one thing that I hate about almost every dump trailers is how they fabricated their hoist set up. At the all the way down position, that set up is at it's highest possible mechanical DISADVANTAGE. As it goes higher, the geometry improves and it actually gets more powerful. The exact opposite of what it needs to be.
We have installed 5th wheel pin to our gooseneck trailers, it makes them have even better road manners. The plus is that it is easer to hook up, and like I said better road manners.
on dump trailers the hoist makes or breaks the whole deal. the hoist you have is not good for heavy loads , a telescopic is the best choice followed by twin rams next
Before buying my dump trailer, i was warned about haul capacity vs dump capacity.....so glad that i was warned. Usually, the single cylinder scissor style dump mechanism will only dump approx 10,000 pounds. Also, on that style of mechanism, if the load is unevenly distributed, you will get a lot of bed twist. After speaking to several of the big name trailer dealers and hearing the same thing about the 10,000 pound dump capacity, i finally stumbled onto a small trailer manufacturer in Texas named Texas Pride. I was looking at their 16,000 gvw dump trailer. When i asked about dump capacity, i was told that their dump capacity is 20,000 pounds. Twin cylinders one on each side of the bed making it equalize pressure for uneven loads and reducing bed twist. So far, the trailer has performed beautifilly. You do have to use common sense when loading, with the dump capacity so high, so that you are not abusing the trailer.
Kaufman 20ft 4ft side 8 tires dual axle. We work it hard every day no issues, one soild big door in the back so no side bulging or double doors seperating from each other from a typical 4ft side trailer.
as someone told me.... you are a lifting a heavy box away from you, where do you lift from? like a hinge near the pivot point [ which would be dual ram cylinder {one ram each side}] or underneath the box [scissor lift] or where it would seem least amount of weight [ side of box, furthest point from pivot point] .telescoping systems can create a high angle of dump than other systems. telescopic dump trailers have a smidge more stability than others - due to location of lifting ram location. that is why most dump trucks have telescoping rams and not scissor lift systems. haul more, less wear/tear/things to break. not to push you towards any brand, but look at maxx-d telescope dump trailer. they are relatively inexpensive and high quality. great customer service. best of luck if you look for another
The bumper pull Big Tex dump trailer you showed image off is what we use on farm. The hyd pump burned up so we bypassed and just use tractor hyd cause we pull it with a tractor. We are consistently overloading it 6-7 tons. Replace all wheel bearings after 1.5 years but now we break them down and repack once a year. Its 4 years old now. It's a TOUGH trailer.
Many people don’t understand that with dump trailers. I’d never have talk sides on one short of hauling brush or trash. I could haul 5 tons in my 16’ with 2’ sides and it was only half full. Normally pj’s are nicer trailers than big Tex… hate to see their quality control going down..
I hot shotted for about 3 years before I went to over the road long haul. My first rig was a 2005 C5500 Gmc with a 9' flat bed w/90 gal Xtra fuel capacity, 5th wheel, Goose neck, and receiver. Also had a 40' goose neck trailer and I was permitted to 32000 gvw. Nice rig and handled everything I hauled. Including 40' containers (empty of course). Always make sure whatever you haul in a dump trailer the bulk of the load needs to be over the axles. That traier is better for Brush or debrs wood chips,not dirt, rock. Live and learn. Be sure and tell whoever buys it if they're not aware this more of a clean up trailer, debris, limbs, but no heavy material in front of the axles. Just passing on my experience and wisdom. sand
It seems weird that that unit doesn't have a telescoping lift setup. Haven't seen a goose neck that didn't. I have a 14' Sure track bumper pull and I think its 14k pound trailer. Double ram setup. My dad has the identical trailer with the scissor lift and they dump about the same. We haven't done an exact side by side comparison. Mine doesn't dump 12k pounds on its own. It's max without help is 11k. I think they need to put better assistant lift points on them. LIke a container that says lift here. But it is highly aggravating thinking that you can haul and dump something that you cant.
Well like when you rent a dumpster the big ones they tell ya, wood ok, construction debris fine, chips or mulch still ok, dirt or rocks not ok, for that they give you the dirt box. We live, we learn. Great video good honest presentation, thanks.
I have four dump trailers. I recently bought a 14' Texas Pride trailer with 4' sides, 10k axels and has a two stage lift. We put 22,000 pounds in it last week and it lifted it fine. We left the job site for a few minutes and my guys just kept throwing the tile in the trailer so it was to late to stop them by the time I got back. I wouldn't recommend filling one that much, but I was surprised it dumped it. I do wish I would have bought the 16' instead to better fit my tractor. I have to say I didn't have the best experience with them when buying it, but the trailer is solid.
I bought an ironbull 16ft with two 8k axels. Its rated for 10 400lbs. That's like 5 yards max and you load the middle of the trailer not the front or back. If anything slightly back heavy over the axels at the rear. Your box is bigger than a tandem axel dump truck with a super small cylinder. Even the telescopic cylinders on dump trailers are like 1/3 the diameter of the dump truck. If you want to haul 10 yards at a time of heavy material you'll need a tandem axel dump truck.
Just sold my 20' diamond car hauler & am in the market for a decent dump. Just something wide enough to get either tractor on but not too big that a Sequoia cant handle it
For every foot of depth I'd guess for Dry topsoil I'd say 10k lbs. For wet and packed dirt probably 15k lbs. So if it's wet and packed 1 foot of depth you're at the limit. You need to know how many yards you can carry and what the weight by yard is. It looks like a 20 yard capacity for bulk, but you can't put 20 yards of material that's 3k lbs per yard. Dirt is 2-3k, maybe a little more if really damp. 3/4 Gravel is 2,500-3,500 per yard depending on how wet. I do agree a scissors lift should not have been used. They are their weakest in the first couple of inches and it's just hard for them to lift. They're cheap though. Direct acting telescoping is the best for lifting heavy weights. Did you weigh out when you got your material? I'd be curious if it could lift 16k evenly distributed. I had a friend with a 7k bumper pull that if you loaded it at max weight it wouldn't lift. He carried a steel digging bar and would stick it between the bed and frame and stand on the end. Once it lifted 2-3 inches it was fine. He talked about trying to come up with some direct acting cylinder that would activate first and lift it 6" then the scissor could take over but he ended up getting a 10yrd dump truck and was much happier.
My experience with dump trailers (I have one) and rented them for years. You almost have to load them heavier over the axles. Too much weight up front can keep them from lifting. I've also used me tractor to help the cylinder start the lift. That works well when you have too much weight in it.
The biggest thing to look at when getting a dump trailer is where the lift cylinders are. I'm surprised being that big of a dump trailer it doesn't have a front cylinder lift. Having a scissor lift puts it at a disadvantage cause it doesn't have the leverage to lift anything in front of the mount. Having a lift cylinder mounted at the front of the box helps give the lift cylinder the leverage it needs to fully lift a load instead of pushing a scissor mechanism. You lose a lot of mechanical advantage that way. The dealer should have specified how to load a trailer with that load.
Really urge you invest in wheel chalks for the trailer that way you dont push againt the transmission when loading and unload equipment. I picked some up at a sale a wbile back and truck and trailer doesn't move when loading.
Id say that would be awesome for firewood, its not really intended for dirt or heavy material but that said ive only used telescoping cylinders that setup for the lift looks like it could get sketchy with age, when material gets hung up and you have to drop down loaded could bend that style looks fairly rigid. If you were to load that trailer evenly front to back you wouldnt be utilizing the benefit of the triaxle, close the back doors andoad from the side so most weight is over the trl axles, gooseneck trls are sigificantly more stable than rear hitches
It looks like you had that load of dirt spread throughout the entire length of the trailer with room to spare on the sides (height) of the trailer, probably would have had better luck keeping the majority of it over the axels of the trailer and stacking it higher... I have a 7X12 bumper pull dump trailer with a 4ton payload capacity. I’ve had a supply yard load the front of it with 4 tons of sand and it wouldn’t dump, but yet I’ve overloaded it with 5 tons of sand loaded over the axels and it dumped it with no issue.... the problem is only worse on the trailer you have since it’s so much longer the leverage is greater if it’s loaded to the front of the trailer.
Most dump trailers dump limit on rocks, dirt, gravel is about half full. Also needs on wall height, width and everything. My Big Tex dealer explained all that well. Most of the times they can hold and dump way more then advertised if properly loaded and with a telescopic Jack. Jacks like the one you’re got are really hard to get up if loaded funny or over loaded.
I watched the previous video.it barely dumped the partial load. Most all hydraulic systems have a relief valve. Generally adjustable. Your looks set way too low from the factory. Should be adjusted with pressure gage but man it looks REALLY weak. I’ve had/have dump trailers. Surprised dealer didn’t look into it more. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the video, very informative and thanks for your honesty about your experience with the trailers . A scissor lift is the worst setup that you can have for a trailer that size . They should have never even made a scissor lift for that size trailer and for the price cost, if you are going to pay $30,000.00 for a trailer you be able to do anything that you put at the trailer . That trailer is a rip-off to people . Thanks again !!! 🤗👍💫
You can adjust the pump on that trailer. I had that happen where it wouldn’t dump …. I adjusted the hex nut in the pump 1/4 turn and it flew up … if you put it too high it’ll blow the hose out
Realize, the wheel wells internally, just mean the other parts of the trailer are wider. If you 'remove' the internal wheel wells, all you are doing is making the box narrower, to fit completely between the tires. There's no free lunch, with wheel wells.
I operate Diamond C dump trailers everyday. Clearly the Best Dump Trailer around. Never had any issues with load amounts. Nothing ever comes close. Worth ever penny. Get Telescopic Lift a M U S T!!!
Adding a additional batteries really help these trailers dump much better. In a pinch you can use a jumper box, or even jumper cables to get it to dump if it’s struggling. Works great
all scissor lift style dump trailers have a smaller limit then the box can hold. load the dirt from the back to just last the lifting point. crazy thing is if you use a piece of equipment to lift just a little it will lift on its own after about 4 to 6 inches of help
Your payload is only 50-60% more than our 14k PJ dump trailer. It can only carry about 5 skid steer scoops or 9-10,000 lbs. Dump trailers are like a multi tool. They aren't great at any one task but can do many tasks okay. Lots of disadvantages from hauling equipment to materials. With material hauling knowing your weight limit as well as placement in the bed are just as crucial if not more important than loading your correct weight distribution for a equipment trailer.
I’m in the rolloff dumpster business. Most people don’t understand that just because they have a 30yd dumpster you can’t fill it with dirt and expect my 80t hoist to magically pick it up without destroying equipment.
Top soil weighs about 2,000lbs per cubic yardThe trailer dimensions are 20'x8'x4', filled completley that would be 27.5 cubic yards, lets say you filled the trailer 1/2 full which seems about right from the picture so you have about 13 cubic yards x 2000lbs = 26,000lbs, it is up to the driver to know the weight of the load, you overloaded the trailer. I get that Diamond C must do better at answering you inquiries, they should have all the answers, such as the example I gave. Unforunately ends up being your fault fo not knowing the weight of the loaded material.
Dude it’s like this video made them redesign. All they advertise in this size group now is an upgraded telescopic version. They even have a pretty unique integration I usually don’t like the telescopics cause they look flimsy even if they lift more. I just got a bumper pull Lamar 7x16x2(box size)and I’m very happy with it for the price, 12,300$ I would of got a gooseneck but for my price range(paying cash) I was actually gonna lose overall weight capacity on the dual 7k axle Lamar gooseneck cause of how heavy the trailer was. That diamond c is nice though my friend!!!
You can replace the manual crank jacks with one that has an electric motor and uses the trailer battery to run it. Or you can weld a 1/2" socket to the top of the crank and use an impact wrench to run it up and down.
I worked for a trailer dealer in highschool and college. None of the people there or other dealers in my are actually know anything about trailers. They just pull out an order sheet and checking boxes with no clue. What they are doing. That trailer should’ve been 16-18 ft max in length. They use the same hoist no mater the Length of dump box. At that length they have to move the scissor hoist so far back to get the full angle that they lose all leverage.
You can learn to hook a gooseneck quickly by yourself. I hook mine up with a tall weatherguard toolbox an fuel tank all in the way. I just center the tube with the rear window, and I’ve learned where to stop when it’s over the ball. An also back the skid steer on the trailer instead. 👍
Use a peice of PVC pipe that goes over your ball so you can see where the ball is. When the trailer hits the pvc pipe and knocks it then you know your over the ball . Hope it helps . Try it out
The cold reality is very few people that sell equipment actually know how to use it. And by use it I mean more then put an attachment on it and move it around the lot. The same goes for those that purchase trailers. The biggest issue I see with goos necks especially is people think they can put unlimited amount of weight on the trailer. I’ll leave alone using single wheel 3/4 and 1 tons for jobs they shouldn’t. It’s not always about the capacity number.
Hopefully I don’t sound snarky, but I have a 333G with full counterweights and a GR Manufacturing bumper (in other words, a very rear heavy machine). I also own Diamond C trailers. There is absolutely ZERO chance you’re going to flip your machine loading/unloading w/o an attachment. ZERO!!! I do it every day with no issues. Don’t let that be a reason to buy another trailer
Everyone overloads their dump trailer... once. That's lesson, like, 4 I think... wait until 79... "Loading an overweight piece of equipment in a dump trailer without chocking the trailer tires, putting the truck in 4wd, and setting the park brake." Nothing wrong with this trailer or the way it was sold, you were just inexperienced... and now you're not, TaDah! That being said, I would have pretty high expectations of a $30k dump trailer, too, and Diamond C gets nothing but love on CZcams so it's interesting to see the flip side. Thanks for your videos!
I drove a Ford 9000 flatbed that had that scissors type lift on it and it would lift anything you could put on it. It had an 18' or 20" bed. The problem with the trailer is the cylinder and the pump, not the style. The Ford had a PTO pump and it took considerable horsepower to lift the bed when loaded, (often well overloaded). A small electric pump isn't going to have the power to lift the load even if the cylinder had the capacity. I hate to say it, but the mistake was not the trailer, but the operator not knowing how much dirt weighs and how to load it in the trailer so it could be dumped. However, the company should have a maximum dump capacity for a water level load on level ground marked on the trailer so the operator has something to work with. .
Ever consider getting a used dump truck? It can tow tractors no problem. You can plow with it. It can also haul dirt like a boss. Just hauling a skid steer these days puts you into CDL territory anyway. It's worth getting one.
These companies all making the scissors lift to cut costs, its the weakest system of all. Unfortunately when I was in the market half a year ago you were lucky just to find anything, Let alone be picky about the ram, there flat out were no hyro ram modules available in the province... looked for close to a month. Same goes with the style of welding, nothing around that has the deck full welded in, best you;ll find are the welds done in 8 inch increments instead. Back of the floor plate caught and bent up 1/2 inch on the Big Tex 16 just by catching the bottom of a 2 series JD mower deck because they couldn't bother to put a full weld across even the tailgate end of the deck steel... Damaged after one use.. was not impressed.
I always put the most weight over the trailer axles and it always dumps fine. Had too much weight in the front wouldn’t lift. Only took me one time to learn how to load it.
The Diamond C is a let down. I pull a competitors 24k 3 axle dump trailer and commonly load it WAY over the rating. I have never had it fail to lift the dump box. It's always on my mind when I am loading it, but has worked every time. I was thinking about a new Diamond C as an upgrade. You saved me a bunch of money with this vid.
Dropped off 2 30 yrd rolloff dumpsters for a private marina beach club. They called few days later said they are ready. I show up and they are loaded to the top with beach sand and logs . My International truck can lift 30k easy but that's overloaded. I couldn't even lift these things off the ground. Called it in and they unloaded the back half w bobcat. Now all the weight upfront. I almost flipped the truck dumping it. Scary stuff.
Issue is the under box lift. Always get the front telescoping cylinder or duel front cylinders. Under box systems are weak which is why all big trucks use front cylinder
I agree with going up the ramps with a a skid steer forwards with no weight on the Freon t end, we have a big Tex and ya it’s scary but you will not tip over as long as you go slow
I got a Texas pride dump trailer 14k standard equipment. Has a telescopic lift and can easily dump 5 tons Im pretty sure it can dump more but I don’t want to over load the trailer. Out the door price was 10k and I picked it up in Texas directly. Had for 6 months now and running like a camp
It should be standard that if a dump trailer has a GVWR of a certain weight it should be able to lift that much(minus the weight of the trailer) no matter how its loaded.
If appropriately loaded I'd say. Put 16k of lead right at the front and you're likely to exceed the hitch weight. But I agree, if you are appropriately loaded you should be able to dump at max weight. Lots of dump trailers can't - it's sad. What I find pathetic is they can't even cite any capacities. Didn't someone engineer that? Or did they just slap a bunch of crap together. It takes some math but it's not that complicated. You should be able to cite a design weight the system should lift. If it's just a little heavy on the nose you can mound up over the axles but I honestly thing that's the wrong setup with the wrong parts. I could respect it if they said it's designed to haul 16k but only dump 10k unless you upgrade to... But it sounds like they have no idea what it can do - and they built it.
I hope the right person finds it and it fills their needs. House cleanouts would probably be a good fit because it's bulk, not weight. Material definitely not...
But thats not even correct. The GVWR is based off the axles and wheel/tire capacity. Not all the weight is on the axles but they sometimes go overkill just to be safe. Has nothing to do with the lift capacity. A 21k gvwr trailer shouldn't be able to dump that much because you have a payload limit. Take the 21k gvwr(just using that number as an example) subtract your empty weight and that's your payload that the trailer should be able to dump.
@Flying C Land I agree I drive quad axle dump truck and you can’t just fill it up with gravel or dirt or even sand especially if it’s wet to the brim of the box and not expect to be way overloaded. I mean 1 yard of dirt can weigh over a ton. It doesn’t take long to become overloaded and unable to dump.
The material weight is not the problem. The dump system is.
I remember quite a few years ago, an outfit was making trailers, and the dump was set to only dump the maximum load, that was it! Everybody was complaining because they all were over loading the trailers, and had to shovel a bunch before it would dump! They eventually learned what their max load looks like! I would have adjusted the pressure relief on the hydraulics, but you may bend something, so there is always a risk!!
I’ll take two 10k axles all day long over three 7k or 8K axles. Three axles adds way more torquing and tire sprag as you tun, which is double trouble to a set of already weak axles. 17.5” wheels/tires are easy to find with 10k axles too. You just never have to worry with 10k axles in comparison, specifically for very heavy duty work and conditions that a dump trailer will be prone to.
100% agree you are spot on
Your failures = your wisdom = more informed decisions for your viewers. Thank you again Courtney for being so transparent. I also appreciate your diplomacy. Let the product speak for itself, good or bad.
Courtney, I ordered a Diamond C dump trailer from TNJ in Pelzer, South Carolina. They were VERY clear about limitations of dirt, gravel, other heavy loads, explaining everything in great detail, making sure my dump trailer experience was excellent. Based on my needs they recommended certain options, told me the ones I didn't need, taking as much time as I needed to make the right choice. Your bad experience was 100% on a lousy dealer not communicating properly. They was you were treated gripes me to no end! Thumbs up.
the dump trailer should have been equipped with a center front Mount two stage hydraulic ram it will lift much more weight but of course it cost a little more
This trailer was probably an order cancellation… who would spend this much without upgrading from a scissor lift? 🤪
already cost way 2 much
nope should of been a telescopic
I have a diamond C dump trailer with the telescoping hoist in front and I absolutely love it and it's always dumped for me even when they load me heavy in the front. Love the videos.
Yes. Telescoping hoist is the way to go. May raise your bed height. But they can dump anything…
Scissors lift are such a hassle. Yes, they are safer when dumping on an angle. But, unless the trailer is mostly empty or all the weight in the back it doesn’t ever dump.
I have buddies with Diamond C dump trailers and some who dont. From what ive seen is that most of them have the front telescopic lift. The guys who have a scissor lift like the one you have on your trailer have smaller trailers than the guys with the telescopic lifts. Because of the location of the scissor lift it struggles to lift heavy loads. Ive never seen the telescopic lift have a hard time dumping. I wouldnt say its the trailers fault but i'd say that its what lift system that you have gotten.
Just to add what I said on the other dump trailer video. Another thing you had against you is the scissor lift. The scissor lift is the weakest king of lift. You would have been better with the two belly cylinders, or best yet, the telescopic cylinder in the front. But I stand by saying that is a very large trailer for dirt.
Best honest review I’ve seen in a long time. I keep seeing your videos pop up and decided to click on this vid. Somebody is going to buy that trailer. I do not mind buying when I know the problems. I hate to find problems later on. Always thought Diamond C was top of the line. I used to be a truck driver. Keep up the good work!!! We need to make honesty the best policy cool again.
Hey Courtney,
I’ve made the same South of the border trailer mistake as well. You mentioned your PJ and big Tex had rust, and hadn’t lived up to expectations as you’d hoped. For someone that uses a trailer as much as you do I’d like to offer a recommendation. We have several Midsotas, Fellings and Tomasters at work. Some of our Towmasters are from the 80’s and all look great for their age. They are all made in MN where they know what winter is and their paint process is 2nd to none. The Felling or towmaster offer hot dipped galvanizing so no rust there. Structurally, any one of these are a waaay better built trailer than the south of the border brands. As far as pricing goes, the Midsota is close to a PJ Felling and Towmaster are more. Hope this helps in your trailer search! Keep up the informative videos!
We had a similar type of dump trailer on the farm. My grandfather created a hydraulic auger that he would engage when dirt and other material stayed wedged in when it was fully lifted. It was a pain in the ass and I was so happy when a local landscaper bought it from us. We bought one half the size and even with the extra trips required, I would take it over that tri axel anyday.
I'm not surprised the company didn't give you a specific number. The answer they gave you is the answer any engineer should give you. The absolute maximum the dump will lift is dependent on a number of variables. No one would put a number on it. That only sets them up so that when you supposedly put that amount on the trailer and it won't dump, then you will come back and complain that it won't meet the numbers that they said it would. Suffice it to say, I'm sure the dump system is more than capable of dumping the rated capacity of the trailer and then some.
I think the bigger question is how much material did you put on it? You said 13 buckets of dirt. I don't know the capacity of the bucket but given that you have the largest compact track loader Deere makes anyway, I'm going to assume that the capacity of the bucket (heaping) is around 0.85 to 1.0 yards. For the sake of calculations, I'll assume that not all the buckets were heaping full and you averaged 0.75 yards per bucket. At about 3,400 pounds per yard, that's in the neighborhood of 32,000 pounds on a trailer with a rated payload capacity of around 16,500? And if you were using the largest bucket and all of the loads were heaping, that number could push up around 44,000 pounds. No company is going to design a dump system that would handle 2 to 3 times the rated capacity of the trailer. That's just over kill and they couldn't sell them at a competitive price. I don't see this as being on the trailer manufacturer at all.
Maybe there was miscommunication with the sales staff at the time of purchase, I don't know. Probably a bunch of assumptions made. This trailer looks like it was design as a multi-purpose trailer and the length and side heights were designed around what was needed to haul equipment or construction debris or something like that. Sure, it can be used to haul dirt but never fully loaded. Seems to me that an erroneous assumption was made about how much the trailer could haul was limited based on the volume of trailer, not the weight rating of the trailer.
I don't see this as a manufacturer's issue at all, but that's just my opinion.
Well... Nice Try! There is Nothing Wrong with Over building with lift capacity. I think it should have 2 hydraulic cylinders, Plus it would give it more stability for dumping.
Seriously???? I'm sure that the lift capacity of the cylinder that is there is more than the rated capacity of the trailer. It's just not THAT much more than the rated capacity. However, let's run with your 2nd cylinder idea. First, the cylinder itself is probably $2000. You'll need additional steel for another mounting point on the frame and lift point on the box (plus labor to install). Not to mention probable upgrades to the hydraulic pump. Not to mention the potential increase for binding things up if the 2 cylinders aren't moving exactly in sync. So, we've now added $4000 to the price of the trailer and we have the capacity to lift let's say somewhere in the 40,000# range......And we have a trailer that will fail within a year. I'm sure the axles are rated at 7000# or 8000# so if you are constantly loading it with 40,000#, those will fail prematurely. The leaf springs of course also probably aren't rated for 40,000# either so they would need to be upgraded. Who knows what additional bracing would be needed on both the box and the frame to be able to deal with that kind on weight continuously. Finally, I'm sure the gooseneck connector is rated at 25,000# so there's another potential failure point that has to be upgraded. By the time you get all that upgraded, you are at a price point of $60-$70k (or more). And of course that's just to get the trailer to handlet those kinds of weights. Even 1 ton pickups aren't rated to pull that kind of weight with about 37,000# being the highest rated towing capacity. As a result, you are going to end up causing damage to your truck if you try to tow that much routinely. It just doesn't make any sense to even think about going there.
More information from the company themselves. And I'm sure any dump trailer manufacturer would tell you the same thing. czcams.com/video/BS9jz-IZDEE/video.html
Tri-axel dump trucks exist for a reason! Hauling coal, limestone and dirt is the main reason. They are built to handle the weight.
You can have an equipment sales business without having a clue about how to use all the equipment, especially new equipment. I think you are right, way overloaded. Should have checked this calculation before complaining which was another mistake.
In my opinion a dump trailer with a front 2 or 3 stage telescopic ram is best and most mechanically beneficial as the pivot point is at the rear and the lift point is all of the way forward. Upgraded tires are always the best choice.
Coming from someone who used to hook/unhook a gooseneck 3-4 times a day every day.... set the bottom of the Gooseneck lock just slightly below the top of the Gooseneck ball every time you take it off(1/4" to 1/2"). You will be able to drive away and your truck will slightly compress as the ball gets pushed down but you will also feel the same effect when you back in to it giving you a positive feeling that you are on the ball.
These simple truths from discovery; helps both the consumer and manufacturer. Thanks for sharing.
Had a friend who bought a 26 ft dump trailer for his semi several yrs ago and told them to fill it with rock, well they did! About 69,000lbs worth 😂 truck and trailer was over 35,000lbs empty. So I think he was about 104,000 lbs or so. He learned just because it'll hold it doesn't always mean you can fill it full!
Something to consider is if you have a skid steer that you want to move in a dump trailer, you’ll need at least a 12’ long box so it fits in the box when loaded. Most skids steer with a bucket is 11.5’ long.
I wouldn't consider any shorter than a 14'. We put a Bobcat T76 in with forks and the door barely closed. Plus you really want some wiggle room with equipment for weight distribution.
thanks for being honest in your appraisals of features and reliability issues.
Absolutely thanks for telling us the ins and outs of the trailer. A trailer of this caliber needs to be far overrated to handle anything caught in there. Garbage that they sell these things like that. Sad
Here’s the thing though, most trailers can lift more than their GVWR. It was either Diamond C or Texas Pride, but they took their scissor hoist, dual ram, and telescopic piston loaded to see what they could do. Now, scissors are quick, but not strong. It lifted just over the max of the trailer weight. Dual ram (2 pistons underneath) lifted more, but much slower. They both struggle with loads at the front. The telescopic crushed both of them lifting nearly 2x the trailer capacity.
Now, in the manufacturer’s defense, our boy here loaded around 11 yards of soil at roughly 2,200 lbs per yard. Soooooo, I get it. Should be able to dump to the top, but high walls are mostly for tree limbs, debris removal, and bulky, less dense objects. It’s a lot to ask of a trailer to pick up 24-25k when it says don’t go over 16.
However, I do agree. For simple material moving around the lot a 2 axle, 14 ft, 14-16 GVWR would be a better fit. I’d go bumper pull so you can use both trucks comfortably.
Are there any dump trailers that are suitable for hauling crushed rock only? I view dirt as light stuff I have been looking for one to replace a single axle dump truck but I am starting to think its not a good path. All I do it run gravel to the farm from rock quarry
@@jeffstrains4014 it depends. So you gotta remember, a yard of dirt weighs around 2,200 lbs. and your typical yard of gravel is usually 2,500. So we’re talking 300 lbs difference. Not really enough to break the machine here. Plus, it depends on the single axle dump truck you’re replacing. If we’re talking some F-350/450/550 chassis cab that can handle 3-5 tons, then any dual axle trailer. If we’re talking a class 5-6 medium duty truck doing 6-8 tons, then you’re more limited to diamond c, Texas pride, and I think big Tex would be your best bets.
Like I said, depends on how much you’re doing, but if you have a stout enough truck 1 ton SRW/DRW w/ diesel, then you can get a trailer rated to 20-24k GVWR that weighs around 6k-7k so you’re looking at 7-9 tons of payload. I’m pretty sure that’s about the same as the truck.
@@miltonzinn8732 Its an old 80's GMC 6500 I normally grab 12 or 13 tons depending on how they load. Pulling back over the scales around 34 to 6k. From what I have seen I think just getting another single axle truck would be my best bet. Can get some decent trucks for the price of these trailers.
@@jeffstrains4014 yeah, if you’re going that heavy, I’d probably stick with the GMC. All things considered to move that amount of rock, you’d need the 30k rated trailer (around $35k and the truck to pull it starting $46k) for a 2wd reg cab diesel.
@@miltonzinn8732 it was Texas pride
Just for anyone who is interested in this trailer or size dump trailer, so you are aware, the rated cargo capacity is said to be 16,780 lbs (trailer weight is 7,220 lbs) for a total Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 24,000 lbs. The trailer has (3) 7,000 lb axles (so 21,000 lbs of the total load can be on the axles), they do not tell you how much weight of the empty trailer is being supported on the axles, and how much is transferred on to the truck by the gooseneck (GN) (would be nice if they stated that though) but they are assuming if you load it to max weight capacity 24,000 lbs (load + trailer) that you will have 3,000 lbs of that load supported on the truck by the GN. You have to figure out how that fits in the trailer without overloading either the axles or the GN (they do not tell you the max rating of the GN as far as I know.....).
With the length of that trailer and the location of the axles, I would think a lot of that 3,000 lbs for the GN is already there, guessing around 2k of it, again though, they don't tell you that (errrrrr). From looking at equal rated and length equipment trailers (from other manufacturers) a GN appears to reduce the capacity of the trailers by about 1k (based on trailers that have GVWR's equal to their combined axles......) so I assume the GN adds about 1,000 lbs to the trailer, and all that steel in the dump box and frame between the front axle and the GN probably adds 750 to 1,000 more pounds (again, they don't tell you...... but that is a MUCH longer trailer than the typical 12 or 14 ft dump trailer, in front of the axles....). So you need to try to keep the load as centered over the axles as you can, with it slightly biased forward of the center axle (for every 8 lbs, you want 1 of those lbs on the GN, though it already has a lot of that weight there....). Since there is not a lot of room behind the rear axle, and a WHOLE LOT MORE room in front of the front axle, I would assume loading centered over the axles till you get to the last scoop, then put that at the front of your load and you will likely be good. This is assuming dense material like dirt, sand or stone. While materials that are not as dense (have a lot more airspace in the pile) like mulch, branches, mixed trash can likely be put in more haphazardly, I would still load it centered over the axles till you nearly run out of room, then load forward into the trailer (the rear of the trailer has to lift a lot less to dump than the front of the trailer, so weight in the front of the trailer is a LOT harder for the hydraulics to lift).
Now onto weight of materials, they all vary a bit and can vary a lot more when wet! My dump trailer has a little label inside the cargo box that lists "estimated weights of materials"
Coal 2,400 lbs per yard
Firewood 1,134 lbs per yard * unseasoned red oak, one cord equals 4.74 cubic yards
Mulch 750 lbs per yard
Sand 2,600 lbs per yard ** average weight of moist sand
Slate 2,400 lbs per yard
Stone, crushed 2,700 lbs per yard
Topsoil 2,400 lbs per yard *** average weight of moist topsoil
"these weights are only to be used as estimates.......hada hada hada....."
We'll go with "moist" topsoil here , just for the example. 1 cubic yard is 27 cubic feet, or 3'x3'x3'. Assuming this and other dump trailers like it is 7' wide and 4' tall walls on the inside, filled to the brime, straight across the top, every 1 ft of trailer length is 28 cubic feet (so assuming there is a little less at each edge of the top, 27 cu. ft. or 1 cubic yard per foot of length of the trailer, 1 yard per foot of trailer for short). With the "rated cargo capacity" of 16,780 lbs, "moist" topsoil at 2,400 lbs/yd would be 6.99 yards or ~ 7 yards. So 1 yd/ft of trailer means 7 ft of trailer, full to the top would max out the capacity of that 20' trailer, or 14' half full of that 20' trailer (assuming this for on the road would be a risky idea as you have not given yourself any leaway and the DOT does not care about estimates, they have calibrated scales to fie you with.....), doing this on your own property is safe to assume you can push this number some depending on how "moist" the soil is..... But hopefully this shows how EMPTY the trailer will likely look when loaded with a dense material like topsoil, sand or stone. This should all be centered as much as possible over the axles..... Now if you are doing this where you will not be "on the road", and going less than 35 mph, I would load this all as far back as possible in the trailer, especially if you are loading it near "capacity", tongue weight won't matter at slow speed, not on the road and on "fairly level" ground (backing down a slope, you don't want the trailer tongue or GN here, lifting the rear of the truck off the ground.....). That will make the load "less work" for the hydraulics to lift.
Now, how much is a cubic yard, or "yard", by the "bucket". Depends on the size of the bucket and how "full" the bucket is. Apparently, the way they measure bucket capacity varies some but usually it goes buy a "struck" bucket, which I think the ASTM defines as straight across from the bucket tip to the top of the back of the bucket, so definitely less than a "heaping" bucket. John Deere's specs say the 333G would use a 84" bucket as standard (different styles of buckets hold different amounts so take this part with a "grain of salt"), so assuming a 84" tooth bucket, they list a "struck" capacity of 0.55 cu. yds. and a "heaped" capacity of 0.78 cu. yds. or 14.85 cubic feet and 21.2 cubic feet. So 12.7 "struck" buckets or 9 "heaping" buckets to get to 7 "yards" (don't remember from the other video how many bucket loads, etc.....) but they need to all be as far back in that trailer as possible.
Anyways, this is not directed at Courtney, just hopefully some useful information for anyone who managed to get through all this and has an interest in dump trailers (or this dump trailer), there is quite a bit "more-than-meets-the-eye" when it comes to dump trailers, especially when it comes to GN's and other long versions (16' for example). The manufactures like to push the "specs" to have big numbers and the dealer should really be more informed about them and make sure their customer is as informed as possible (my dealer did not go over any of this either.... though mine is much smaller and lighter). (this comment really got away from me, it wasn't supposed to be this long winded 😂) Have a good one, after all, it has to get better after reading all of this....🤣
Whew! I skimmed it, haha!
Longest comment I've ever seen.
Wow. Thank you Someone with a brain.
I bet your tax returns are interesting.
What makes you think we're reading it
It changes far more than you would ever guess based on how it is loaded. I have moved a lot of material in a dump trailer and even on a 14ft bumper pull, it can easily be over a 2000lb of variance even on a much smaller trailer than yours. You are dumping on a fulcrum, so forward weight vs back weight has a huge effect on dumping capability. The more tail heavy you are the easier it will dump, but of course you have to have a distribution that will tow safely as well.
Good advice on upgrading tires. I think you forgot to mention make sure you have a spare on every trailer. That's my biggest pet peeve. Its crazy so see all the guys out there with zero spares on a trailer then you see 'em stranded or parked on the road on a busy holiday to boot. I keep mine on a tire carrier or in case of a cargo, its mounted in the front Vee section. Last thing a guy needs is to be stuck with a flat in BFE and its rainy on a late night or holiday when your odds of finding a tire place to come help is slim. Then risk leaving trailer on the road when anyone with a spare could come by and take it home.
Yes, with duals, I'd suggest two spares as if one goes, by the time it's noticed, the other tyre is possibly at the point of failure, too, even past that point.
It also means you have the tyres you WANT, not whatever the tyre shop has in that size.
12 or 14 foot is the limits for dumping heavy stuff……. I figure it just needs to be big enough that the loaders at the quarry don’t have to worry about spilling out the sides when they’re dumping their bucket into your trailer.
I love your videos but I feel like this is user error purchasing a dump trailer with high sides does not mean if you feel up to the top with extremely heavy material no matter what dump trailer you buy with 4 or 6 foot sides you will not be able to fill it all the way with gravel there was a video put out by Texas pride trailer which shows is 7 x 14 dump trailer with 6 foot walls filled to the top with gravel and it weighs 40,000 pounds
I don't think I ever shirked responsibility, as I claimed it was my error in this video and the prior about it. Definitely know there must be trailers out that there can do that kind of things since there are dump trucks that do it!
Of course it was user error. Maybe you didn't watch the video, but I clearly explain why I'm stating all of this so the next buyer is educated. That's what a saleman should do on a $30,000 trailer purchase. I told the salesman my plans, he made no mention of the deceiving nature of the trailer, or how it can't lift anymore than a trailer a third of the price. No stickers anywhere on the trailer stating how much it will lift. Diamond C doesn't even know how much it'll lift. A complete lack of information from the manufacturer and dealer. Yeah, in hindsight, I would have drilled them hard on those questions ahead of time.
@@GoodWorksTractors I did watch the entire video like I do with most of your videos. And I do agree that the dealer did not communicate the limitations of the trailer correctly
He said it was his error in the beginning of the video. Did you even watch it?
@@larryhobbs8769 yes I watched the entire video just like I do with the most good works tractor videos
Great video, and i love that you stated about subscribing at the end and not the beginning of the video before giving great information.
My $0.02: It looks like you had quite a lot of material in there. Jacob on the Diamond C YT channel mentions that having the 24" sides is plenty high when hauling soil and rock. Anyway, I agree the telescopic model probably would have had an easier time lifting in that situation. Didn't help the the material was sticky, and wouldn't slide back when dumping.
I have a Diamond C Low Profile Dump Trailer- Bumper Pull. I think Diamond C has a great product. There paint is excellent. I’ve been able to haul and dump everything I’ve needed to. I use mine daily for hauling firewood. Diamond C does sell single cylinder lifts.
I had a tri axle dump trailer and sold it. Because of my driving habits in backing up the left front tire would take a lot of wear because of turning while backing up. It does not back up the same as a tandem axle, it had the same hydraulic cylinder as the lighter weight models as well. You are correct it hauls heavy but dumps about the same as any other dump trailer. good video.
Thanks for sharing your experience, sorry it wasn't great news. I have an 18 footer, dual axle, with two cylinders on each side. Things I have learned: 1. I can load it for bear. But I am careful with how the dirt gets loaded, a little more to the rear, but not tongue light. 2. I like the old school side mount hydraulics. They tend to lift more than a single and they are more stable on an incline or where you can't get it level to dump. Shouldn't have any trouble selling that one, its a nice trailer.
Always try to put a liner in it that makes material slide out easy. Always try to get a cylinder in the front of the trailer
It would be cool if the trailer had scales built into it and warned you when the trailer is nearing/ over weight to dump.
You’re absolutely right! They build those things not with the consumers best interest in mind. I instinctively know this just by looking at it. It is not a dump truck.
I also know that a yard of the material like dirt rocks gravel weights in the neighbourhood of 2500 pounds, give or take for the moisture content.
If you’ve dealt with any kind of volume in those materials you will know how much space it takes up and can quickly calculate how many tons you have in front of your cylinder lifting device.
Forgive me if this sounds rude.
I had to find this out the hard way. Almost the same way. Here’s a way to recon it.
Most hydraulics generate psi in the thousands
For convenience 1800 is a go to. The ram pressure is also easy to figure out. The area of a 4” circle 12.57* times 1800 is 22,626 lbs of push divide by 2500 lbs per yard is about 9 yard on a straight push.
Here’s the catch ! A short cylinder’s ram load is reduced by the mechanical advantage to get it higher in the air to dump.
It’s a shame the dealers don’t know this.
When the dump is all the way up, stand a ways off (25ft) perpendicular to the unit, look at the cylinder fully extended now compare that to the total height of the box. Not the front but in line with the cylinder Recon how many times the extended cylinder can fit in that distance. divide 22,626 by that number. Say 1.5. You can lift 6 yards at that point. 162 cu ft or 12”x12”
It of course it would be less because of the weight of the box and anything in the front of that point but it gives you an idea. Nothing worse that having to shovel it out!
*Ask Siri she’s a wonderful
Lady and will do all those calculation for you.
What a nice setup with the triple axle. I did tons of research on which lifting option works best. For dirt and gravel the front telescoping is the way to go. Not sure why the dealer didnt explained this.
Dealers just want the sale. It's up to the user to know what it's capable of. Likèn buying a Ferrari and complaing that its to fast
Fyi whatever trailer you get it is possible to overload it but I appreciate your honesty
Wow thanks for your honesty about your experience. Another piece of information to take with me.
Whenever you get ready to sell that cargo trailer I might be interested I like that one is a storage over the top that’s pretty cool
Look at the iron bull 14k 8x16 deck over dump. It has drop sides that allows side loading. Overbuilt dump ram. Best trailer I have ever owned and I’ve had a bunch.
I really like Diamond C trailers, but one thing that I hate about almost every dump trailers is how they fabricated their hoist set up. At the all the way down position, that set up is at it's highest possible mechanical DISADVANTAGE. As it goes higher, the geometry improves and it actually gets more powerful. The exact opposite of what it needs to be.
Exactly!
We have installed 5th wheel pin to our gooseneck trailers, it makes them have even better road manners. The plus is that it is easer to hook up, and like I said better road manners.
on dump trailers the hoist makes or breaks the whole deal. the hoist you have is not good for heavy loads , a telescopic is the best choice followed by twin rams next
Before buying my dump trailer, i was warned about haul capacity vs dump capacity.....so glad that i was warned. Usually, the single cylinder scissor style dump mechanism will only dump approx 10,000 pounds. Also, on that style of mechanism, if the load is unevenly distributed, you will get a lot of bed twist. After speaking to several of the big name trailer dealers and hearing the same thing about the 10,000 pound dump capacity, i finally stumbled onto a small trailer manufacturer in Texas named Texas Pride. I was looking at their 16,000 gvw dump trailer. When i asked about dump capacity, i was told that their dump capacity is 20,000 pounds. Twin cylinders one on each side of the bed making it equalize pressure for uneven loads and reducing bed twist. So far, the trailer has performed beautifilly. You do have to use common sense when loading, with the dump capacity so high, so that you are not abusing the trailer.
Kaufman 20ft 4ft side 8 tires dual axle. We work it hard every day no issues, one soild big door in the back so no side bulging or double doors seperating from each other from a typical 4ft side trailer.
as someone told me.... you are a lifting a heavy box away from you, where do you lift from? like a hinge near the pivot point [ which would be dual ram cylinder {one ram each side}] or underneath the box [scissor lift] or where it would seem least amount of weight [ side of box, furthest point from pivot point] .telescoping systems can create a high angle of dump than other systems. telescopic dump trailers have a smidge more stability than others - due to location of lifting ram location. that is why most dump trucks have telescoping rams and not scissor lift systems. haul more, less wear/tear/things to break. not to push you towards any brand, but look at maxx-d telescope dump trailer. they are relatively inexpensive and high quality. great customer service. best of luck if you look for another
The bumper pull Big Tex dump trailer you showed image off is what we use on farm. The hyd pump burned up so we bypassed and just use tractor hyd cause we pull it with a tractor. We are consistently overloading it 6-7 tons. Replace all wheel bearings after 1.5 years but now we break them down and repack once a year. Its 4 years old now. It's a TOUGH trailer.
Also if we load that trailer to far forward it won't lift. We load it heavy over the axles.
Many people don’t understand that with dump trailers. I’d never have talk sides on one short of hauling brush or trash. I could haul 5 tons in my 16’ with 2’ sides and it was only half full.
Normally pj’s are nicer trailers than big Tex… hate to see their quality control going down..
I hot shotted for about 3 years before I went to over the road long haul. My first rig was a 2005 C5500 Gmc with a 9' flat bed w/90 gal Xtra fuel capacity, 5th wheel, Goose neck, and receiver. Also had a 40' goose neck trailer and I was permitted to 32000 gvw. Nice rig and handled everything I hauled. Including 40' containers (empty of course). Always make sure whatever you haul in a dump trailer the bulk of the load needs to be over the axles. That traier is better for Brush or debrs wood chips,not dirt, rock. Live and learn. Be sure and tell whoever buys it if they're not aware this more of a clean up trailer, debris, limbs, but no heavy material in front of the axles. Just passing on my experience and wisdom.
sand
It seems weird that that unit doesn't have a telescoping lift setup. Haven't seen a goose neck that didn't. I have a 14' Sure track bumper pull and I think its 14k pound trailer. Double ram setup. My dad has the identical trailer with the scissor lift and they dump about the same. We haven't done an exact side by side comparison. Mine doesn't dump 12k pounds on its own. It's max without help is 11k. I think they need to put better assistant lift points on them. LIke a container that says lift here. But it is highly aggravating thinking that you can haul and dump something that you cant.
Well like when you rent a dumpster the big ones they tell ya, wood ok, construction debris fine, chips or mulch still ok, dirt or rocks not ok, for that they give you the dirt box. We live, we learn. Great video good honest presentation, thanks.
I think you may be the most honest CZcamsr I’ve came across.
I have four dump trailers. I recently bought a 14' Texas Pride trailer with 4' sides, 10k axels and has a two stage lift. We put 22,000 pounds in it last week and it lifted it fine. We left the job site for a few minutes and my guys just kept throwing the tile in the trailer so it was to late to stop them by the time I got back. I wouldn't recommend filling one that much, but I was surprised it dumped it. I do wish I would have bought the 16' instead to better fit my tractor. I have to say I didn't have the best experience with them when buying it, but the trailer is solid.
I bought an ironbull 16ft with two 8k axels. Its rated for 10 400lbs. That's like 5 yards max and you load the middle of the trailer not the front or back. If anything slightly back heavy over the axels at the rear. Your box is bigger than a tandem axel dump truck with a super small cylinder. Even the telescopic cylinders on dump trailers are like 1/3 the diameter of the dump truck.
If you want to haul 10 yards at a time of heavy material you'll need a tandem axel dump truck.
A big miss there. Soil is very heavy. I only put 3 yards in my 16’ dump trailer.
Just sold my 20' diamond car hauler & am in the market for a decent dump. Just something wide enough to get either tractor on but not too big that a Sequoia cant handle it
For every foot of depth I'd guess for Dry topsoil I'd say 10k lbs. For wet and packed dirt probably 15k lbs. So if it's wet and packed 1 foot of depth you're at the limit.
You need to know how many yards you can carry and what the weight by yard is. It looks like a 20 yard capacity for bulk, but you can't put 20 yards of material that's 3k lbs per yard. Dirt is 2-3k, maybe a little more if really damp. 3/4 Gravel is 2,500-3,500 per yard depending on how wet.
I do agree a scissors lift should not have been used. They are their weakest in the first couple of inches and it's just hard for them to lift. They're cheap though. Direct acting telescoping is the best for lifting heavy weights.
Did you weigh out when you got your material? I'd be curious if it could lift 16k evenly distributed. I had a friend with a 7k bumper pull that if you loaded it at max weight it wouldn't lift. He carried a steel digging bar and would stick it between the bed and frame and stand on the end. Once it lifted 2-3 inches it was fine. He talked about trying to come up with some direct acting cylinder that would activate first and lift it 6" then the scissor could take over but he ended up getting a 10yrd dump truck and was much happier.
Look into Lamar dump trailers, I bought a 16' long by 7' wide 14kgvwr. Love it!!
bought a 16' dump with 4' sides. Hardly used it. It was falling apart after 2 years. Sold it bought a dump truck.
My experience with dump trailers (I have one) and rented them for years. You almost have to load them heavier over the axles. Too much weight up front can keep them from lifting. I've also used me tractor to help the cylinder start the lift. That works well when you have too much weight in it.
trailer tire upgrade is something I have learned as well. ones that came with trailer burned off in no time.
The biggest thing to look at when getting a dump trailer is where the lift cylinders are. I'm surprised being that big of a dump trailer it doesn't have a front cylinder lift. Having a scissor lift puts it at a disadvantage cause it doesn't have the leverage to lift anything in front of the mount. Having a lift cylinder mounted at the front of the box helps give the lift cylinder the leverage it needs to fully lift a load instead of pushing a scissor mechanism. You lose a lot of mechanical advantage that way. The dealer should have specified how to load a trailer with that load.
if the dump box was 10ft shorter it copuld be a decent trailer, but to be less than half full and at max capacity with dirt is ridiculous.
We had some issues with some of the trailers at work not being able to lift the loads hooking up a second battery helps tons
Really urge you invest in wheel chalks for the trailer that way you dont push againt the transmission when loading and unload equipment. I picked some up at a sale a wbile back and truck and trailer doesn't move when loading.
Id say that would be awesome for firewood, its not really intended for dirt or heavy material but that said ive only used telescoping cylinders that setup for the lift looks like it could get sketchy with age, when material gets hung up and you have to drop down loaded could bend that style looks fairly rigid. If you were to load that trailer evenly front to back you wouldnt be utilizing the benefit of the triaxle, close the back doors andoad from the side so most weight is over the trl axles, gooseneck trls are sigificantly more stable than rear hitches
Great Trailer for a logger/firewood processor. I have a 16 foot front piston 21,000lb trailer. I can lift anything but slow.
It looks like you had that load of dirt spread throughout the entire length of the trailer with room to spare on the sides (height) of the trailer, probably would have had better luck keeping the majority of it over the axels of the trailer and stacking it higher... I have a 7X12 bumper pull dump trailer with a 4ton payload capacity. I’ve had a supply yard load the front of it with 4 tons of sand and it wouldn’t dump, but yet I’ve overloaded it with 5 tons of sand loaded over the axels and it dumped it with no issue.... the problem is only worse on the trailer you have since it’s so much longer the leverage is greater if it’s loaded to the front of the trailer.
Most dump trailers dump limit on rocks, dirt, gravel is about half full. Also needs on wall height, width and everything. My Big Tex dealer explained all that well. Most of the times they can hold and dump way more then advertised if properly loaded and with a telescopic Jack. Jacks like the one you’re got are really hard to get up if loaded funny or over loaded.
11:47
You know... This kind of explains why Diamond C went with that new cylinder design set up on their dump trailers.
Anyways, appreciate the video!
I watched the previous video.it barely dumped the partial load. Most all hydraulic systems have a relief valve. Generally adjustable. Your looks set way too low from the factory. Should be adjusted with pressure gage but man it looks REALLY weak. I’ve had/have dump trailers. Surprised dealer didn’t look into it more. Just my 2 cents.
Thanks for the video, very informative and thanks for your honesty about your experience with the trailers .
A scissor lift is the worst setup that you can have for a trailer that size . They should have never even made a scissor lift for that size trailer and for the price cost, if you are going to pay $30,000.00 for a trailer you be able to do anything that you put at the trailer . That trailer is a rip-off to people .
Thanks again !!!
🤗👍💫
You can adjust the pump on that trailer. I had that happen where it wouldn’t dump …. I adjusted the hex nut in the pump 1/4 turn and it flew up … if you put it too high it’ll blow the hose out
Realize, the wheel wells internally, just mean the other parts of the trailer are wider. If you 'remove' the internal wheel wells, all you are doing is making the box narrower, to fit completely between the tires. There's no free lunch, with wheel wells.
I operate Diamond C dump trailers everyday. Clearly the Best Dump Trailer around. Never had any issues with load amounts. Nothing ever comes close. Worth ever penny. Get Telescopic Lift a M U S T!!!
Adding a additional batteries really help these trailers dump much better. In a pinch you can use a jumper box, or even jumper cables to get it to dump if it’s struggling. Works great
all scissor lift style dump trailers have a smaller limit then the box can hold. load the dirt from the back to just last the lifting point. crazy thing is if you use a piece of equipment to lift just a little it will lift on its own after about 4 to 6 inches of help
Your payload is only 50-60% more than our 14k PJ dump trailer. It can only carry about 5 skid steer scoops or 9-10,000 lbs. Dump trailers are like a multi tool. They aren't great at any one task but can do many tasks okay. Lots of disadvantages from hauling equipment to materials. With material hauling knowing your weight limit as well as placement in the bed are just as crucial if not more important than loading your correct weight distribution for a equipment trailer.
Sounds like you got that Diamond from my local Kubota dealer.🤣
I’m in the rolloff dumpster business. Most people don’t understand that just because they have a 30yd dumpster you can’t fill it with dirt and expect my 80t hoist to magically pick it up without destroying equipment.
Top soil weighs about 2,000lbs per cubic yardThe trailer dimensions are 20'x8'x4', filled completley that would be 27.5 cubic yards, lets say you filled the trailer 1/2 full which seems about right from the picture so you have about 13 cubic yards x 2000lbs = 26,000lbs, it is up to the driver to know the weight of the load, you overloaded the trailer. I get that Diamond C must do better at answering you inquiries, they should have all the answers, such as the example I gave. Unforunately ends up being your fault fo not knowing the weight of the loaded material.
Dude it’s like this video made them redesign. All they advertise in this size group now is an upgraded telescopic version. They even have a pretty unique integration I usually don’t like the telescopics cause they look flimsy even if they lift more.
I just got a bumper pull Lamar 7x16x2(box size)and I’m very happy with it for the price, 12,300$ I would of got a gooseneck but for my price range(paying cash) I was actually gonna lose overall weight capacity on the dual 7k axle Lamar gooseneck cause of how heavy the trailer was.
That diamond c is nice though my friend!!!
Glad to hear it. I decided to keep the trailer and am pretty careful with how I load it now. I like it overall except for that issue.
You can replace the manual crank jacks with one that has an electric motor and uses the trailer battery to run it. Or you can weld a 1/2" socket to the top of the crank and use an impact wrench to run it up and down.
I would rather weld a 1/2 socket to the top of the crank and use an impact on it, that makes it so handy .
🤗👍💫
I worked for a trailer dealer in highschool and college. None of the people there or other dealers in my are actually know anything about trailers.
They just pull out an order sheet and checking boxes with no clue. What they are doing.
That trailer should’ve been 16-18 ft max in length. They use the same hoist no mater the Length of dump box. At that length they have to move the scissor hoist so far back to get the full angle that they lose all leverage.
Have you looked at the goose neck tilt trailers with the lower center of gravity. Easy on the back. No ramps. Just a thought
Yeah have considered
You can learn to hook a gooseneck quickly by yourself. I hook mine up with a tall weatherguard toolbox an fuel tank all in the way. I just center the tube with the rear window, and I’ve learned where to stop when it’s over the ball.
An also back the skid steer on the trailer instead. 👍
Use a peice of PVC pipe that goes over your ball so you can see where the ball is. When the trailer hits the pvc pipe and knocks it then you know your over the ball . Hope it helps . Try it out
Good tip
That dump should have had at least a dual cylinder lift, capable of lifting the max payload (plus trailer bin weight).
I just made the same statement!!! There is nothing wrong with over building on the lift capability... Especially since it is a Dump Trailer!
The cold reality is very few people that sell equipment actually know how to use it. And by use it I mean more then put an attachment on it and move it around the lot. The same goes for those that purchase trailers. The biggest issue I see with goos necks especially is people think they can put unlimited amount of weight on the trailer. I’ll leave alone using single wheel 3/4 and 1 tons for jobs they shouldn’t. It’s not always about the capacity number.
You can convert a manual crank jack to one you can run with a cordless impact with a little cutting and welding.
Hopefully I don’t sound snarky, but I have a 333G with full counterweights and a GR Manufacturing bumper (in other words, a very rear heavy machine). I also own Diamond C trailers. There is absolutely ZERO chance you’re going to flip your machine loading/unloading w/o an attachment. ZERO!!! I do it every day with no issues. Don’t let that be a reason to buy another trailer
Everyone overloads their dump trailer... once. That's lesson, like, 4 I think... wait until 79... "Loading an overweight piece of equipment in a dump trailer without chocking the trailer tires, putting the truck in 4wd, and setting the park brake." Nothing wrong with this trailer or the way it was sold, you were just inexperienced... and now you're not, TaDah! That being said, I would have pretty high expectations of a $30k dump trailer, too, and Diamond C gets nothing but love on CZcams so it's interesting to see the flip side. Thanks for your videos!
I drove a Ford 9000 flatbed that had that scissors type lift on it and it would lift anything you could put on it. It had an 18' or 20" bed. The problem with the trailer is the cylinder and the pump, not the style. The Ford had a PTO pump and it took considerable horsepower to lift the bed when loaded, (often well overloaded). A small electric pump isn't going to have the power to lift the load even if the cylinder had the capacity.
I hate to say it, but the mistake was not the trailer, but the operator not knowing how much dirt weighs and how to load it in the trailer so it could be dumped. However, the company should have a maximum dump capacity for a water level load on level ground marked on the trailer so the operator has something to work with. .
I literally drove to Ohio instead of buying a trailer from the dealer you mention. Not surprised AT ALL at your experience with then.
Ever consider getting a used dump truck? It can tow tractors no problem. You can plow with it. It can also haul dirt like a boss.
Just hauling a skid steer these days puts you into CDL territory anyway. It's worth getting one.
These companies all making the scissors lift to cut costs, its the weakest system of all. Unfortunately when I was in the market half a year ago you were lucky just to find anything, Let alone be picky about the ram, there flat out were no hyro ram modules available in the province... looked for close to a month.
Same goes with the style of welding, nothing around that has the deck full welded in, best you;ll find are the welds done in 8 inch increments instead. Back of the floor plate caught and bent up 1/2 inch on the Big Tex 16 just by catching the bottom of a 2 series JD mower deck because they couldn't bother to put a full weld across even the tailgate end of the deck steel... Damaged after one use.. was not impressed.
I always put the most weight over the trailer axles and it always dumps fine. Had too much weight in the front wouldn’t lift. Only took me one time to learn how to load it.
The Diamond C is a let down. I pull a competitors 24k 3 axle dump trailer and commonly load it WAY over the rating. I have never had it fail to lift the dump box. It's always on my mind when I am loading it, but has worked every time. I was thinking about a new Diamond C as an upgrade. You saved me a bunch of money with this vid.
Dropped off 2 30 yrd rolloff dumpsters for a private marina beach club. They called few days later said they are ready.
I show up and they are loaded to the top with beach sand and logs . My International truck can lift 30k easy but that's overloaded.
I couldn't even lift these things off the ground.
Called it in and they unloaded the back half w bobcat.
Now all the weight upfront.
I almost flipped the truck dumping it. Scary stuff.
Issue is the under box lift. Always get the front telescoping cylinder or duel front cylinders. Under box systems are weak which is why all big trucks use front cylinder
I agree with going up the ramps with a a skid steer forwards with no weight on the Freon t end, we have a big Tex and ya it’s scary but you will not tip over as long as you go slow
I've tried going forward and started to tip over. I can't go backwards if I need to grab an attachment in the nose of the trailer.
I got a Texas pride dump trailer 14k standard equipment. Has a telescopic lift and can easily dump 5 tons Im pretty sure it can dump more but I don’t want to over load the trailer. Out the door price was 10k and I picked it up in Texas directly. Had for 6 months now and running like a camp
The problem is the scissor lift but boy is it pretty! You need that same trailer with a single ram on the front