This is the real problem with the new Team Associated B7 and why C Block fails
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- This is a follow up from previous video and we think we havce found the real problem with the C Block issue
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Thank you for researching this and committing it to video! I have been too lazy to do it myself. 😅
One thing you might want to look at, is the length of the pin, shoved all the way back in the D Block, with no pill in the C Block, it's crazy how little into the C Block the pin actually sits.
So, ideally, the fix for this is a combination of all three issues. Remove the pill removal notch, make the pins longer, and correct the gear box holes. Whether they make them both 2mm, or the 2.5mm of the closer hole, I think we all deserve a symmetrical race car.
My b7 is just the same.
Feel disappointed with new car now.
B6.4 was good.
Associated need to sort this out.
It shouldn't be up to us to resolve these problems.
Recall on chassis and tranny cases
It's more than just the stuff highlighted here.
The swing arms being longer means any knock to the end of the arms is applying more force than before to those pins due to the arms forming a longer lever. Without the blocks being reenforced to account for this, those pins will keep getting ripped out even if they are longer and fit correctly (pins can get ripped out on older versions of the car too but its less of an issue due to less force being applied with the smaller swing arms/levers).
Twisting the chassis is also going to be an issue for exactly the same reason, compounded by the chassis being narrower there along with the longer levers applying more force. And the narrowing has also removed material near all those screw holes.
I suspect there will be a revision of the chassis fairly soon with modifications to these areas.
B7.1 in two weeks 😂🙄
@@16-BITFPV 😆glad i waited!
It is being sorted. However in the meantime, the holes in the gearbox are just through-holes, it’s screwing into the rear link mount that holds it together. I elongated the hole on the left hand gearbox half (as you look at the back of the car) it only takes about 0.5mm, this brings the D block back into line. I then purchased some 3.5mm x 75mm drill blanks and cut down to 50.75mm so they fit fully into each pill. Zero issues on my car.
Every manufacturer can suffer teething problems when releasing something brand new, and it will be sorted.
Its not ideal - poor quality control the carbon gearbox is better - we have made the correct length pins and along with HD C block seems to solve issues
It’s only when the car gets into the hands of us mere immortals do issues like this show up. The top drivers don’t have big accidents so this wouldn’t show up in testing
Very true and has been similar issues with other brands
you're not immortal
That would solve some issues. I volunteer as a tester lol.
Great follow up vid,
TMG speed has made a c-block without slots in them and should be available soon which is another fix👍🏻
Dam I’m glad I haven’t bought one. Knew I needed to wait
I bought my 6.4 3 weeks later b7 came out ill stick with 6.4
I don't really understand why they have made the chassis shorter like that. The alignment of the 6.4 is set by 4 holes in the chassis which will be machined at the same time from the same reference. The 7 is set by multiple parts from multiple manufacturing processes that all need to come together with perfect tolerance in order to work.
Yes , I think it was to prevent chassis slap, but only small difference
I noticed this while building my kit. Thought maybe i had a one off. I threw $ at it & bought the carbon gearbox and seems to have a much better fit but have not measured it. Feels like AE rushed production & missed fine detail.
Be interesting to know if the carbon gearbox is moulded better, an you keep us posted
It is better. I’ll leave it to y’all to do the math. I can see the difference once installed.
On record. It makes the pillbox charts obsolete.
Back in the day with Team Durango, I had to make my own pins out of titanium and cut them a little longer than factory to make that area more resistant to hitting the pipes.
There is something about alluminum elastic module. It is not supposed to flex passed plastic deformation. The pins seems to be out of manifacturing tolerance I think.
Even if the holes were the same it is still a bad design as the plastic will stretch and move , aluminum will not , it needs to be mounted to the aluminum chassis.
Through chassis is better
AE seems to do this on purpose, in order to say they made mistakes and “here buy these parts to fix it”
D block alignment may be a bit wonky but doesn't seem to be slowing down the top drivers. Agree pins are too short. The gap between the C and D block is 2.75 greater on the 7 as compared to the 6.4 but the 49.5mm pin is only 2mm longer.
I've flipped the c block and will shave off some from the leading edge of the control arm to set full forward geometry if necessary.
Thanks for providing a place for us to vent 😂
Yes longer pins are being sourced
Ughh wish I would have seen this video lol just finished my build and going to run it tonight for the first time. I have looked it over and it doesn't appear to have that issue but we will see how it holds up tonight. I will let you know either way.
Well I ran it last night and it was riding on rails! I TQd and won the Amain. Everything seemed to be good. I will say that there is something wrong with the front shocks. For some reason the O-rings in the spring collars come out of place and lock them so you cant adjust them. I managed to get them where I needed them and ordered some new collars. Im hoping that the channel they sit in was not milled deep enough and new collars will fix it. Other than that I only had 1 bad cartwheel wreck so I cant speak to durability.
Good going.
Mine is fine , I've raced it 4 times. No problem
I wonder if the carbon gear box has the same issue? Surely made on the same molds idk 🤷🏻♂️ I remember having to put a little effort into bolting the back end up and having to sand one side of the shims significantly to get it to free up like the other side during the build but I guess not enough to make me realize something was wrong 😂
The carbon does fit better by eye, but i have not measured it.
Any idea what springs I should be running on my B7 for medium grip carpet, thanks in advance
I ran blue rear red front
The time between prototype, testing and production is far too short. By the time the team drivers find these issues the tooling and molds are made, and likely the first kits are already in boxes. Team drivers will find a workaround but cant announce it otherwise itll shake confidence in the new kits and sales will drop.
That can be seen from how quick the press release to release dates were
I’ve looked at mine and it’s 100% exactly the same as yours.
Seems to be a common problem
:O :O :O oh that is BAD :O :0 specially coming from Such a Big company like Associated
What pins do you suggest to switch to?
Longer ones we have them on for sale
Where? @@TeamRC3D
Have AE addressed there is an issue
Looks like a compareable problem to the first B6 which had a plastic D-block.
Metal blocks but pins to short and misalignment on the gearbox
@@TeamRC3D i'm referring to the first B6 (6.0) which had a comparable problem as the B7 now ✌️
where can I buy the pins?
We are hoping to have some available this week
TLR could help you with that. ,')
Ah yes sure they could with there latest release
Good thing I'm a Losi guy😁
LOSI is not very well supported in the UK at the moment
It's a kit. It's not defective.
Thus us a race car, you should not be buying this if you are not up to it, driving at speed and accurate. If you are crashing this hard, buy a basher
In an ideal world!!!