@@ARTOFPATIENCE yea the only maintenance I do is plugs n wires changed the oil and I had 2 replaced the water pump I got my Tahoe new off the lot I’m 43 I’m not a youngin and I had to get my transmission rebuilt
Damn dude that's a lot of miles!!! You are still a youngin I'm 56 I love these ls powered cars and trucks. I have three Two of them are over 200,000 miles
@@jaetea2010Thank you, and he's not a kid, thats the new white folks saying kid , boy of being scared or replacing the N word, I already don't have respect or tolerance for racists people and duh he didn't need a jack nor stands to start with, the hole point of soft racist race byest people are to leave dumb comments to project there hate, tords us, he did good leave it there.
Old school truck to stop sticking lifters. You’ll laugh but it works! Drain the oil, leave the old filter. Fill the motor with 1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil, 1 qt of Diesel, 1 qt of ATF and then add new regular oil (2 qts?)to top it off. Run it for a few days or weeks tge. Give it a fresh oil/filter change.😎
I did it to my 2006 z71 Suburban, the tick went away instantly and hasn’t come back. I’m on my maintenance and preventive maintenance. Transmission fluid will be added to my oil change now. Listening to you I will change oil every 3,000 miles. Thanks!
@@mperez0210 My Suburban takes 6 quarts. I put 5 quarts of Amsoil synthetic motor oil in the block, last quart was transmission fluid. It took the lifter tic away immediately.
Great video my man. It was real. Anyways. ATF works. Lucas oil has an oil stabilizer that's works too. Just have to drive the vehicle 200 plus miles with the stuff in it to break things up.
My 2015 GMC Sierra started tapping at 60,000 .... Researching lead me to adding 1 qt of reg ATF to every 5000 mile oil change ...Now at 106,000 she's smooth and quite .... No issues at all with the extra 1 qt of ATF ...
It’s a common lifter problem in all Ls and LT engines as a mechanic I see it everyday tare it down put a new set of lifters and lifter trays and be done with it what causes that problem in the newer ones is the dod system switching back and forth from V4 to V8 but you can buy a control module that plugs inside to the ecu connector under the dash and it’ll stop that problem for the ones that don’t know
Unfortunately there are a lot of DOD deleted engines that the Rollers on the lifters seize, digging into the cam. Can't win. I said the he'll with that 5w 30 shit and switched to 10w 60 full group 5 synthetic. Expensive yes and so are engine changes.
Make sure you can see all the bolts that hold your exhaust manifolds on. They tend to break..also check where the manifold connects to your exaust. If you see black carbon build up on your pipes, that's a leak.. Good luck
Thanks for the vid - I havent finished it yet but like others have said aleady - please NEVER get under any vehical without proper jack stands. Jacks fail - OFTEN. Vehicals can fall off of a jack too - and anything under gets crushed. Also, don't believe an oil cap when it comes to choosing oil. Look it up in TRUSTED resource - most auto parts store will let you look that up or they can look it up in the store. That cap was just the one that fit the valve cover when the previous owner lost the original cap. (I guess it could have been worse - they could have crammed a paper towel in there!)
Common issue on 5.3s an 6.0s. Replace the lifter an check the push rod. Easiest way of doing so is rolling it on a flat surface. Also check the rockers.
Use to have these come in the shop all the time. Had to pull the heads off check all the lifters, push rods an rocker arms. Usually ended up being a worn lifter. Shit ain’t no joke tho it’ll eat the cam to shit if it gets bad enough
Its most likely a lifter failure caused by AFM, there's nothing you can do except replace the lifter and do it aoon before it takes the cam with it. If you do all the work make sure you deactivate AFM or you're going to run into the aame issue in no time.
same issue! 2012 Tahoe 5.3L. The truck is at 240K right now. still rides good but that ticking just started about a week ago. its def the lifters/rockers/pushrods!!!? great video! thanks for the post. Also my oil pressure was a little low. Mines usually sits right at 40PSI or whatever is in the middle (12) on my gauge.
@@Hegotcars2had an 05 gmc sierra same issue...expert mechanic told me to go to orreilys and ask for FLAT OUT 40 WEIGHT OIL...did as he said and problem solved...goes away wen oil is fresh and very slowly comes back as u get closer to needin an oil change again...but does dramatically change...now no 0w 40 none of that...straight 40 weight...they usually have in bal or will order for u
Mine sounded the same way,push all the spark plug wires while engine is running one of those wires will stop the ticking or that wire is not connected right or need replacing.
I HAVE A 2004 SILVERADO 4.8L SAME PROBLEM DID TRANS FLUID IT HELPED SOME I ALSO PUT MOTOR MEDIC ENGINE FLUSH WHICH HELPED TREMENDOUSLY THEN MY MECHANIC SAID TO RUN 20/50 WEIGHT OIL IT WORKED IT EVEN BOOSTED MY OIL PRESSURE
OMG, find another mechanic and I hope that thick ass oil didn't damage your bearings from lack of oil. Your oil pressure went up cause it's really hard to push that thick ass oil. This was a fix on much older vehicles, like 70's and older. I bet the mechanic that told you that was very old school. DO NOT DO THAT. Things are much tighter in newer engines and that oil is not going to cut it.
Collapsed lifters, probably gonna have to pull the engine apart and replace the lifter. At that, you might as well do the dod delete and be done with the dod. Displacement on demand.
The first number on 0w-20 is just the viscosity at cold, so it'll actually allow oil to lubricate the engine more quickly. If you want a thicker oil, then you should try 0w-30 or 5w-30 is probably fine as well if you want a thicker (30 instead of 20) operating temperature oil instead. Does this have the afm override via computer etc? I'm guessing the failure is with those. I think when you first mentioned about coil and wire, you're referring to "Wrenching With Kenny", check out his video titled "Dreaded AFM DOD Lifter Failure Explained" definitely important information to know if you own a GM with the afm.
First number is hot, second number is cold. Oil gets easier to pour when it warms up. The lower the number, the easier to pour. Viscosity is how easily it pours. Lower the number, lower the viscosity. You got it backward bud.
The problem is one or more lifters charging hole has got a small amount of dirt ( carbon ) stopped up, the proper way to fix the problem is to flush the oil system like this.....drain about 2 quarts of oil from the pan and put the drain plug back in, add one quart of diesel fuel to the oil, start the engine and let it idle only, do not rev. the engine or put it in gear...let it idle till it gets to normal run temperature and after 5 minutes at run temp, shut it off and change the oil & filter as normal.....If that doesn't fix it, then pull the valve covers off and use shop air to blow out the oil holes in the rocker arms ....You will need a rubber nozzle for your shop air...! Good luck..! I do this flush every 3rd oil change, never had a lifter tick..!
I would have dropped that transmission fluid in there. In fact I drop some in mine each oil change for my 06 Impala SS with that same engine. It works.
Sadly, GM knows these engines with AFM and DFM will fail at some point but they will not do anything about it until they are forced to by class action lawsuits by everyone with these 5.3L and 6.2L engines. Installing a AFM/DFM disabler only prolongs the problem due to the high oil pressure pump flooding the cylinder walls. At some point, these engines will experience a failure due to cam lobe wear and bent push rods. I wouldn’t be surprised that Extended Service Warranty companies stop offering warranties to vehicles sold with AFM and DFM.
my 6.0L (my 2008 has a Variable Corvette High pressure oil pump.Just like what is installed on a corvette 2014 model Gen 5 engine..) (mind you mine is a Gen 4 engine..LS2 based with the AFM.) 45PSI when fully warmed up at idle speed. 3,000RPM it's 60psi GM knew about the lifter issue since 2007 for sure, this has extended range AFM v4 mode on this engine. my tensioner pulley is ticking and clacking badly though about to replace it today :D Yes i did confirm it's the tensioner pulley.. but it does have that infamous injector tick
Its a 5.3, end of story. They all do it to some degree. My 06 only has 60k miles and has a quiet tick once in a while. Yesterday the tick was worse for no reason compared to zero tock the day before. Prob the manifold more often than not on these. I just accept it lol.
If you flush your engine when you change your oil and filter then you won't have this problem. The lifter oil feed holes get blocked because they're not big enough (usually a problem with American engines). Just add an engine flush (I use Liqui Moly). You'll find that YOU'LL NEVER have that problem again NB - If an engine flush had been carried out at EVERY oil change then this would never occur.
Replace the oil stem gasket.. it may have a crack in it or wore out.. that'll slow up the oil pump from pumping oil through the engine. It like having a hole or crack in a straw when you drinking soda .... or replace the oil pump or spring .
Collapsed Lifter Maybe, Common Active Fuel Management System Failure, push rod can bend creating play which may cause the misfire. If your lucky it could be the lubricant but it sounds too pronounced
You should have used seafoam with a half a quart of transmission fluid and run it for a couple of days every car I had I put seafoam in it believe me it will keep the motor clean until your next oil change
Dude, that might be your AFM lifter is collapsed. I rebuilt my engine and I still had two different lifters collapse. The first time happened a week after I rebuilt it and this last time I just kept driving it with the knock. Come to find out that I had 2 coils that were cracked on the bottom side. The same day that I replaced both coils the lifter unlocked and the knocking stopped. The OBD2 said that my Bank one was running lean. Your gas mileage will be crap.
Hey Robert, could you elaborate on you mean by “coils”. You said you had 2 coils that were cracked. I’m right in the middle of getting my lifters re done and I’m not sure what your mean by “coils”. Do you mean valve spring? TIA
My bank one #5 was running right and my mileage was horrible. I changed wires and spark plugs and after I calmed down a week later I decided to check the ignition coils. My #5 coil had a crack on the back side from one end to the other. I couldn’t see it spark at night because it was arcing straight into the mount that it’s bolted onto. My #6 ignition coil had a smaller crack in the center of the bottom side.
First my lifters started tapping then my #4 cylinder started missing I tried plug, coil,wire, injector none of that fixed the problem. I removed the head to find a collapsed AFM lifter collapsed. When I put it all back I still had tapping from #8 so I fixed the misfire but the tap was still there. I took it all back apart and replaced the regular lifers that didn't work then I changed the O ring on the oil pump straw that didn't work. Now I am going to blow high pressure air thru the oil channel I'll let you know if that works
Ok this is my follow up, I took the head back apart I replaced all the lifters again but I did something estra that was I replaced the little filter under the pressure sensor I then put the motor back together now I have no ticking I repeat my motor stop ticking. I think it was the filter all alone because I had already replaced all the lifters. I hope this helps. Ohh I have a Impala ss 5.3
I noticed it common in all 5.3 engine I don't care how new your truck is in some point the lifters going to tap and sometime go bad I have a 2007 tahoe it did me like that I bought me a delete kit for mine so I want have that problem a delete kit changes everything it still a 5.3 but you don't have those springs lifter nomore that what sometime call it to tap the springs go bad or defect or push rod not getting enough oil to the lifters
ive seen some comments on the dod/afm systems and how bad they already are, but I've heard for those systems that the vlom bolts can get loose and cause a loss of oil pressure, which can be a cause of the lifters going bad as well. Itd be a good place to check as well before a lot of other stuff, unless you choose to delete dod/afm all together.
Stick with your OEM specified oil weight on vehicles built 2014+ due to the smaller clearances in the engine. The best thing you can do is CHANGE frequently! Anytime moisture and dust particles are introduced into your oil (condensation, rain, off road/mud) your oil is considered contaminated and thats why your filter is such an important player. Also, do not overfill your crankcase of oil, get it exact. Along with change out that pvc valve every couple of years to help prevent blowing out oil seals. When you tow and haul heavy loads, park in the yard or park under trees....CHANGE YOUR OIL within a 3-6 month interval to keep the mechanics away
I have a 2012 Ford F-150 5.0 engine. If you have not changed your oil on a regular basis, the dirty oil on the lifters need to be bleeded. Changed my oil the next week, with STP treatment for sinthetic oil treatment. The best way to stop the lifters is to bleed the lifters, BMW's have a real problem with dirty lifters. This will work on any car or truck. Put the emergency brakes on, rev your car or truck up 2 or 3 minutes 3,000 RPM's, basically you are bleeding the lifters, and will not harm the vehicle, and it worked. I use to be in the parts business, watch this guy called Dr.BMW, he will show you the tricks, the dealerships do not want you to know. treatment. I
On my 07 Escalade it was a piston slap and I was looking for something more loud but when I broke it down the piston came up just a hair rod bearing was bad changed it and I was back in business
Most things on a vehicle has a torque spec as well. Either in-lb or ft-lb learn the specs first for your lug nuts, then for whatever else you may have to work on. Even spark plugs have a torque spec. Spark plug torque specs are in inch-lbs. There is a huge difference between the two specs. Good luck
I didn’t drive my 2002 Suburban that the oil has always been changed every 5000 with full synthetic Mobil 1 . So after sitting a month I went out to start it and it for the first time had a lifter ticking. Checked my oil and it was a quart low so I put in the new quart and held the rpm at 2500 and it stopped and hasn’t come back. But I just might run some Mystery Oil in it to clean the lifters out but not very far because it deletes and makes the oil thinner and messes up the oil formula so that’s not good and can cause wear. I watch Lake Speed Jr channel called I think the Oil Geek and he is an oil expert.
@@Jackthedog928 Even a Rolls Royce can become crap .. just sayin this guy should have used his money towards a Louder Stereo system than try to cure a mechanical Tick noise with expensive Snake oil ...
@@kevwills858 lifter tick isn’t indicative of a crap engine. It’s indicating the engine needs cleaned. There are tons of well versed mechanics that swear by using atf. Do I do it? Nope. I use Marvel. 12 bucks and it works but I don’t judge anyone who has good luck with atf. I just tend to use things for what they are made for as a principle.
@@Jackthedog928 One might get lucky I guess 🤔 Drinking a bottle of Vodka may thin the blood enough to help (in a "one off" attempt) to clear a blood clotted artery ?
Only thing that will fix it is to remove the cylinder head and remove the lifted and inspect the rollers on the lifters and check for pitting on the camshaft and roller of the lifter. Then replace whatever is damaged
I know someone that has the 5.3 in a 2010 Silverado doing the same ticking sound and believe it or not.. it ended up being an exhaust leak up by the headers and manifold.. just a suggestion for you.
Bro never trans fluid in the oil. With these model ls engines (08 and above 5.3 6.0 6.2) have the cylinder deactivation meaning, while you are cruising on the highway at a steady speed the ECM (electric control module)(vehicles computer) deactivates 4 cylinders which adds extra strain on your camshaft causing lifters to collapse and bent pushrods, on the passenger side specifically, GM really goofed up with this idea trying to save economy and emissions, we end up doing a core replacement most of time depending how long customers drives it like that
They have Displacement on demand which will deactivate 4 cylinders by shutting off the oil to the lifters for those 4 cylinders and the lifters will stick in the disabled mode or rotate and will also ruin the camshaft. The transmission fluid trick does work in the older '06 on down 5.3 but not on the D.O.D. 5.3. Putting thicker oil and lucus oil treatment was the worse thing you could have done. That engine needs the 0w-20 for the D.O.D. system to work. If you got it fixed since this video was over a tear ago it should have needed lifters and possible camshaft. The sucky part id you need to remove the cylinder heads to change the lifters.
He didn’t turn the motor off & let it sit for at least 5mins to let the oil drain back down into the pan, he checked it while it was running & added the transmission fluid with it running wtf
The active fuel management system can cause problems with the lifters. I had to replace the lifters and cam shaft on my avalanche. I took it to a shop and got the active fuel management system deactivated
@@GLOCKCOPG23 I'm still in research phase for this job. There's 2 ways to do this. One is do a computer delete or a OBD device cancel. These are the cheapest around $200, but NOT most effective. The other is a full AFM delete which will take out all AFM components in engine and replace with non AFM parts, but this is super expensive at around $4,000. I'm pushing towards the full delete to do it right but having a hard time finding a trust worthy shop to do it.
The fuel management system that drops it down to a 4 cylinder is a killer. It is always the same lifer.purchase a delete that plugs into the obd port in the cab.before the damage.The trucks have a design flaw. If you are lucky and the cam does not have a flat spot, a lifter will fix it but without the delete it will happen again.purchase a oem or moog product do no put a cheep lifter in.I wish I had better news.
Just a waste of money. It stops it from activating but doesn’t do shit to stop the failure. The minority of the ones I repair have the plug in port already.
I'm thinking of doing the AFM delete kit but one mechanic quoted me at $4 and $5k. Another mechanic did not recommend that I do it because he said he did one at his shop and they could not get the check engine light to turn off afterwards and we are in a state that requires emissions test. Do you recomend full delete kit?@@Scummy_shovel
i got a 2000 gmc Sierra and ten years ago it started knocking like this i just started putting lucas in it at every oil change and today my engine is like new. i dont need lucas no more.
hp tuners delete dod afm and if u can get them them pop back up i took a prybar and put it in between the valve spring and rocker and rolled it over by hand and when it tight on the just pull up on the it abit not crazy and them pull the bar out and the lifter popped up but u got to unhook the coils and get all the lifters up them without starting it roll it over to build oil pressure up when u got good pressure u hook up the coils also dont forget to do the dod delete in the ecm or it just drop the lifters again dont forget to take the oil presurre unit aka sending unit out and clean it out good this is just a chance to fix doesnt work everytime but low cost the push rods can be bend they are cheap 4 bucks each good luck and this just want i have done to get it working ecm must have the dod delete from it or it will just fail again
IMHO, you should not have done that. That engine has BIG lifter problems. Why did you pour that AT fluid in the dipstick access? This is getting crazier by the minute.
Sounds loke the exhaust manifold is leaking😮. Maybe a bad arcing coil. But bad coils usually make different pattern sounds- like S.O.S. Morse code. Not a steady consistent noise.
Easy fix. Have it taken to get the DOD lifters taken out and replaced with normal roller lifters and then send it. It will last 8 times as long without those intentionally designed failure DOD lifters. I would never drive one of these GM V8’s with the DOD lifters in it from the factory. Basically 2007+. I would only drive a 1999-2006 GM V8 without the DOD lifters.
Your lifter is collapse you'll have to replace them... transfluid normally works with a lifter that bleeds down hammers at first start and then pumps up trans fluid will help keep one pumped up but on totally collapse all you can do is replace lifters midaswell toss a big motha thumper cam in while your their..
Yes, eventually the lifter hammers away at the camshaft and either Cam lobe or the lifters roller will battle away at each other to see whos the strongest... The camshaft may win if you stop the fight early enough .. 😄
If a so called mechanic ever tell you to get thicker oil never let them touch your shit. They sound like a Autozoner when someone asks what weight oil there vehicle takes and they ask how many miles on it.
It’s that system you have in motor where it stop using some of the cylinders to save gas the spring stays down so when it does use that cylinder the spring doesn’t spring back it’s on all the v8 Chevy has it no good I have a Tahoe and don’t want it to happen how many miles you have on that one
I have a Tahoe as well and concerned about it. I was thinking of doing complete AFM Delete Kit but it costs est: $4-$5k, and one mechanic told me that his shop did a delete kit but afterwards could not get the engine light to turn off and that's bad for states that have emissions tests. Not sure what to do
@@michaelduenas1364 AMS racing has kits which use genuine GM parts or you can obtain DOD replacement parts list and source the parts out yourself. There seems to be about 5 companies that come up consistently on Google searches which I would contact/research to become more educated on cam choices and your intended application.
Thanks for showing everyone else that owns a Lemon, that aint nothing in a can or bottle will ever fix a faulty part or the $1000 Bill to fix it .. Everybody Hopes and spends $150 on Hope(addatives) instead of saving that money and putting it towards the Lemon properly ... PS If what you showed us did actually work, Would you have Sold the car to some other Sucker ?
My 2000 Tahoe 4.8l vortec LR4 still going strong with 503,093 miles on it 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Dammit man!
Original engine?
@@ARTOFPATIENCE yea the only maintenance I do is plugs n wires changed the oil and I had 2 replaced the water pump I got my Tahoe new off the lot I’m 43 I’m not a youngin and I had to get my transmission rebuilt
Damn dude that's a lot of miles!!!
You are still a youngin I'm 56
I love these ls powered cars and trucks. I have three
Two of them are over 200,000 miles
Thats because the early version of these engines 99-06 didn't use AFM/DFM. GM messed up what was a great engine
HEY KID MAKE SURE YOU PUT A JACK STAND UNDER YOUR TRUCK FOR SAFTY DONT TRUST THE FLOOR JACK IV SEEN THEM DROP.
The truck isn't lifted didn't need to jack it up
I was going to mention the same thing until I saw your post. Crazy NOT using Jack stands!
2 years ago my neighbor was crushed. He didn't make it..PLEASE use a jack stand
@@jaetea2010Thank you, and he's not a kid, thats the new white folks saying kid , boy of being scared or replacing the N word, I already don't have respect or tolerance for racists people and duh he didn't need a jack nor stands to start with, the hole point of soft racist race byest people are to leave dumb comments to project there hate, tords us, he did good leave it there.
@@jaetea2010 If you Lift it up,use Jack Stands
Old school truck to stop sticking lifters. You’ll laugh but it works!
Drain the oil, leave the old filter. Fill the motor with 1 qt Marvel Mystery Oil, 1 qt of Diesel, 1 qt of ATF and then add new regular oil (2 qts?)to top it off. Run it for a few days or weeks tge. Give it a fresh oil/filter change.😎
I did it to my 2006 z71 Suburban, the tick went away instantly and hasn’t come back. I’m on my maintenance and preventive maintenance. Transmission fluid will be added to my oil change now. Listening to you I will change oil every 3,000 miles. Thanks!
What did you do??
@@mperez0210 My Suburban takes 6 quarts. I put 5 quarts of Amsoil synthetic motor oil in the block, last quart was transmission fluid. It took the lifter tic away immediately.
@marcell5055 that's weird cause brody did the same an it was still ticking
@@mperez0210 maybe it was to far gone or the quality of oil. My 5.3 don’t have AFM as well. Maybe that helped.
@@mperez0210 GMT 800 don’t have half of the issues the newer trucks has. I don’t mind having older vehicles, less computer, no fuel management issues.
Great video my man. It was real. Anyways. ATF works. Lucas oil has an oil stabilizer that's works too. Just have to drive the vehicle 200 plus miles with the stuff in it to break things up.
My 2015 GMC Sierra started tapping at 60,000 .... Researching lead me to adding 1 qt of reg ATF to every 5000 mile oil change ...Now at 106,000 she's smooth and quite .... No issues at all with the extra 1 qt of ATF ...
It’s a common lifter problem in all Ls and LT engines as a mechanic I see it everyday tare it down put a new set of lifters and lifter trays and be done with it what causes that problem in the newer ones is the dod system switching back and forth from V4 to V8 but you can buy a control module that plugs inside to the ecu connector under the dash and it’ll stop that problem for the ones that don’t know
Unfortunately there are a lot of DOD deleted engines that the Rollers on the lifters seize, digging into the cam. Can't win. I said the he'll with that 5w 30 shit and switched to 10w 60 full group 5 synthetic. Expensive yes and so are engine changes.
Make sure you can see all the bolts that hold your exhaust manifolds on. They tend to break..also check where the manifold connects to your exaust. If you see black carbon build up on your pipes, that's a leak.. Good luck
Great idea could be that.
This"how to" didn't show me "how to" do anything
Check your manifold bolts on the end. They may be broken and causing the exhaust leak which sounds like tapping
That’s definitely lifter noise it’s heavy tick
You wouldn’t really hear an exhaust leak at idle unless you’re just missing the whole exhaust
@@austinkohn3701you can definitely hear a bad exgaust leak at idle, but you're not wrong, this is lifter tick.
Thanks for the vid - I havent finished it yet but like others have said aleady - please NEVER get under any vehical without proper jack stands. Jacks fail - OFTEN. Vehicals can fall off of a jack too - and anything under gets crushed. Also, don't believe an oil cap when it comes to choosing oil. Look it up in TRUSTED resource - most auto parts store will let you look that up or they can look it up in the store. That cap was just the one that fit the valve cover when the previous owner lost the original cap. (I guess it could have been worse - they could have crammed a paper towel in there!)
Common issue on 5.3s an 6.0s. Replace the lifter an check the push rod. Easiest way of doing so is rolling it on a flat surface. Also check the rockers.
Use to have these come in the shop all the time. Had to pull the heads off check all the lifters, push rods an rocker arms. Usually ended up being a worn lifter. Shit ain’t no joke tho it’ll eat the cam to shit if it gets bad enough
Definitely a lifter, you're gonna have to pull the heads. They are common with this.
@@AboveRioTzZhow much something like this run? Parts a labor? An is it worth doing?
Wondering the same. Did you find a price?@@marco785 Wondering the same. Did you find a price?
@@marco785that’s a really good question. I wish someone would have answered you 🤦🏾♂️
dude seems legit and i enjoyed the video.
I’m having the same problem with my 15. I’m looking forward to see if yours is fixed!
I hope so
That aint no FIX, keep dreaming and buying expensive additives ...
Its most likely a lifter failure caused by AFM, there's nothing you can do except replace the lifter and do it aoon before it takes the cam with it. If you do all the work make sure you deactivate AFM or you're going to run into the aame issue in no time.
same issue! 2012 Tahoe 5.3L. The truck is at 240K right now. still rides good but that ticking just started about a week ago. its def the lifters/rockers/pushrods!!!? great video! thanks for the post. Also my oil pressure was a little low. Mines usually sits right at 40PSI or whatever is in the middle (12) on my gauge.
No problem glad it helped. Hope urs get fixed soon tho
Try marvel mystery oil 1 QT in oil
@@Hegotcars2had an 05 gmc sierra same issue...expert mechanic told me to go to orreilys and ask for FLAT OUT 40 WEIGHT OIL...did as he said and problem solved...goes away wen oil is fresh and very slowly comes back as u get closer to needin an oil change again...but does dramatically change...now no 0w 40 none of that...straight 40 weight...they usually have in bal or will order for u
Mine sounded the same way,push all the spark plug wires while engine is running one of those wires will stop the ticking or that wire is not connected right or need replacing.
Yeah, crap engine .. time to sell ..
I HAVE A 2004 SILVERADO 4.8L SAME PROBLEM DID TRANS FLUID IT HELPED SOME I ALSO PUT MOTOR MEDIC ENGINE FLUSH WHICH HELPED TREMENDOUSLY THEN MY MECHANIC SAID TO RUN 20/50 WEIGHT OIL IT WORKED IT EVEN BOOSTED MY OIL PRESSURE
OMG, find another mechanic and I hope that thick ass oil didn't damage your bearings from lack of oil. Your oil pressure went up cause it's really hard to push that thick ass oil. This was a fix on much older vehicles, like 70's and older. I bet the mechanic that told you that was very old school. DO NOT DO THAT. Things are much tighter in newer engines and that oil is not going to cut it.
Collapsed lifters, probably gonna have to pull the engine apart and replace the lifter. At that, you might as well do the dod delete and be done with the dod. Displacement on demand.
Range AFM plug n play disabler. Have one in my 08 Sierra now for idk 5 years? Stays in V8 mode all the time.
Wife’s 2011 Tahoe got the tick around 20k did the transmission fluid in the oil and now the truck has over 350k on it with no ticking.
The first number on 0w-20 is just the viscosity at cold, so it'll actually allow oil to lubricate the engine more quickly. If you want a thicker oil, then you should try 0w-30 or 5w-30 is probably fine as well if you want a thicker (30 instead of 20) operating temperature oil instead. Does this have the afm override via computer etc? I'm guessing the failure is with those.
I think when you first mentioned about coil and wire, you're referring to "Wrenching With Kenny", check out his video titled "Dreaded AFM DOD Lifter Failure Explained" definitely important information to know if you own a GM with the afm.
First number is hot, second number is cold. Oil gets easier to pour when it warms up. The lower the number, the easier to pour. Viscosity is how easily it pours. Lower the number, lower the viscosity. You got it backward bud.
The problem is one or more lifters charging hole has got a small amount of dirt ( carbon ) stopped up, the proper way to fix the problem is to flush the oil system like this.....drain about 2 quarts of oil from the pan and put the drain plug back in, add one quart of diesel fuel to the oil, start the engine and let it idle only, do not rev. the engine or put it in gear...let it idle till it gets to normal run temperature and after 5 minutes at run temp, shut it off and change the oil & filter as normal.....If that doesn't fix it, then pull the valve covers off and use shop air to blow out the oil holes in the rocker arms ....You will need a rubber nozzle for your shop air...! Good luck..! I do this flush every 3rd oil change, never had a lifter tick..!
I would have dropped that transmission fluid in there. In fact I drop some in mine each oil change for my 06 Impala SS with that same engine. It works.
Sadly, GM knows these engines with AFM and DFM will fail at some point but they will not do anything about it until they are forced to by class action lawsuits by everyone with these 5.3L and 6.2L engines. Installing a AFM/DFM disabler only prolongs the problem due to the high oil pressure pump flooding the cylinder walls. At some point, these engines will experience a failure due to cam lobe wear and bent push rods. I wouldn’t be surprised that Extended Service Warranty companies stop offering warranties to vehicles sold with AFM and DFM.
my 6.0L (my 2008 has a Variable Corvette High pressure oil pump.Just like what is installed on a corvette 2014 model Gen 5 engine..)
(mind you mine is a Gen 4 engine..LS2 based with the AFM.)
45PSI when fully warmed up at idle speed. 3,000RPM it's 60psi GM knew about the lifter issue since 2007 for sure, this has extended range AFM v4 mode on this engine.
my tensioner pulley is ticking and clacking badly though about to replace it today :D Yes i did confirm it's the tensioner pulley..
but it does have that infamous injector tick
Always change the oil every 3k miles please this will help alot with gm engines
For that misfire , you run the engine after dark . Yull see where it's arcing
I have an 2008 suburban it doing the arcing after dark misfire on cylinder 4 what is the problem
@@mauriceberry3221 If it's arcing, change the plug wires. Seriously, if that wasn't obvious to you, please have a mechanic do the repair.
Its a 5.3, end of story. They all do it to some degree. My 06 only has 60k miles and has a quiet tick once in a while. Yesterday the tick was worse for no reason compared to zero tock the day before. Prob the manifold more often than not on these. I just accept it lol.
If you flush your engine when you change your oil and filter then you won't have this problem. The lifter oil feed holes get blocked because they're not big enough (usually a problem with American engines).
Just add an engine flush (I use Liqui Moly). You'll find that YOU'LL NEVER have that problem again
NB - If an engine flush had been carried out at EVERY oil change then this would never occur.
I had that same problem and Seaform Fix it Noise never came back 1 can
Replace the oil stem gasket.. it may have a crack in it or wore out.. that'll slow up the oil pump from pumping oil through the engine. It like having a hole or crack in a straw when you drinking soda .... or replace the oil pump or spring .
Collapsed Lifter Maybe, Common Active Fuel Management System Failure, push rod can bend creating play which may cause the misfire. If your lucky it could be the lubricant but it sounds too pronounced
So all you’d have to do is change the lifter?
Bro I got the same tick from using that oil I switched to valvoline and it stopped
You should have used seafoam with a half a quart of transmission fluid and run it for a couple of days every car I had I put seafoam in it believe me it will keep the motor clean until your next oil change
Dude, that might be your AFM lifter is collapsed. I rebuilt my engine and I still had two different lifters collapse. The first time happened a week after I rebuilt it and this last time I just kept driving it with the knock. Come to find out that I had 2 coils that were cracked on the bottom side. The same day that I replaced both coils the lifter unlocked and the knocking stopped. The OBD2 said that my Bank one was running lean.
Your gas mileage will be crap.
Hey Robert, could you elaborate on you mean by “coils”. You said you had 2 coils that were cracked. I’m right in the middle of getting my lifters re done and I’m not sure what your mean by “coils”. Do you mean valve spring? TIA
My bank one #5 was running right and my mileage was horrible. I changed wires and spark plugs and after I calmed down a week later I decided to check the ignition coils. My #5 coil had a crack on the back side from one end to the other. I couldn’t see it spark at night because it was arcing straight into the mount that it’s bolted onto. My #6 ignition coil had a smaller crack in the center of the bottom side.
First my lifters started tapping then my #4 cylinder started missing I tried plug, coil,wire, injector none of that fixed the problem. I removed the head to find a collapsed AFM lifter collapsed. When I put it all back I still had tapping from #8 so I fixed the misfire but the tap was still there. I took it all back apart and replaced the regular lifers that didn't work then I changed the O ring on the oil pump straw that didn't work. Now I am going to blow high pressure air thru the oil channel I'll let you know if that works
Did it?
Ok this is my follow up, I took the head back apart I replaced all the lifters again but I did something estra that was I replaced the little filter under the pressure sensor I then put the motor back together now I have no ticking I repeat my motor stop ticking. I think it was the filter all alone because I had already replaced all the lifters. I hope this helps. Ohh I have a Impala ss 5.3
@@rodneywilliams4565 what filter exactly?
@@dmoney420vision6 the oil pressure switch filter. It's located under the oil pressure sensor on the 5.3 engine.
I noticed it common in all 5.3 engine I don't care how new your truck is in some point the lifters going to tap and sometime go bad I have a 2007 tahoe it did me like that I bought me a delete kit for mine so I want have that problem a delete kit changes everything it still a 5.3 but you don't have those springs lifter nomore that what sometime call it to tap the springs go bad or defect or push rod not getting enough oil to the lifters
ive seen some comments on the dod/afm systems and how bad they already are, but I've heard for those systems that the vlom bolts can get loose and cause a loss of oil pressure, which can be a cause of the lifters going bad as well. Itd be a good place to check as well before a lot of other stuff, unless you choose to delete dod/afm all together.
Stick with your OEM specified oil weight on vehicles built 2014+ due to the smaller clearances in the engine. The best thing you can do is CHANGE frequently! Anytime moisture and dust particles are introduced into your oil (condensation, rain, off road/mud) your oil is considered contaminated and thats why your filter is such an important player. Also, do not overfill your crankcase of oil, get it exact. Along with change out that pvc valve every couple of years to help prevent blowing out oil seals.
When you tow and haul heavy loads, park in the yard or park under trees....CHANGE YOUR OIL within a 3-6 month interval to keep the mechanics away
I have a 2012 Ford F-150 5.0 engine. If you have not changed your oil on a regular basis, the dirty oil on the lifters need to be bleeded. Changed my oil the next week, with STP treatment for sinthetic oil treatment. The best way to stop the lifters is to bleed the lifters, BMW's have a real problem with dirty lifters. This will work on any car or truck. Put the emergency brakes on, rev your car or truck up 2 or 3 minutes 3,000 RPM's, basically you are bleeding the lifters, and will not harm the vehicle, and it worked. I use to be in the parts business, watch this guy called Dr.BMW, he will show you the tricks, the dealerships do not want you to know. treatment. I
On my 07 Escalade it was a piston slap and I was looking for something more loud but when I broke it down the piston came up just a hair rod bearing was bad changed it and I was back in business
Most things on a vehicle has a torque spec as well. Either in-lb or ft-lb learn the specs first for your lug nuts, then for whatever else you may have to work on. Even spark plugs have a torque spec. Spark plug torque specs are in inch-lbs. There is a huge difference between the two specs. Good luck
Most of these are 11-13 ft lbs.
I didn’t drive my 2002 Suburban that the oil has always been changed every 5000 with full synthetic Mobil 1 . So after sitting a month I went out to start it and it for the first time had a lifter ticking. Checked my oil and it was a quart low so I put in the new quart and held the rpm at 2500 and it stopped and hasn’t come back. But I just might run some Mystery Oil in it to clean the lifters out but not very far because it deletes and makes the oil thinner and messes up the oil formula so that’s not good and can cause wear. I watch Lake Speed Jr channel called I think the Oil Geek and he is an oil expert.
I have the same problem w/my Silverado 5.3. I tried the transmission fluid. Good info bro
Everyone dreams of a super cure for crap engines
@@kevwills858you should go read about these engines. They’re far from crap.
@@Jackthedog928
Even a Rolls Royce can become crap .. just sayin this guy should have used his money towards a Louder Stereo system than try to cure a mechanical Tick noise with expensive Snake oil ...
@@kevwills858 lifter tick isn’t indicative of a crap engine. It’s indicating the engine needs cleaned. There are tons of well versed mechanics that swear by using atf. Do I do it? Nope. I use Marvel. 12 bucks and it works but I don’t judge anyone who has good luck with atf. I just tend to use things for what they are made for as a principle.
@@Jackthedog928
One might get lucky I guess 🤔
Drinking a bottle of Vodka may thin the blood enough to help (in a "one off" attempt) to clear a blood clotted artery ?
Thanks bro going through the same thing 2010 Yukon lifter or pushrods🙌🏿💪🏿
Only thing that will fix it is to remove the cylinder head and remove the lifted and inspect the rollers on the lifters and check for pitting on the camshaft and roller of the lifter. Then replace whatever is damaged
I know someone that has the 5.3 in a 2010 Silverado doing the same ticking sound and believe it or not.. it ended up being an exhaust leak up by the headers and manifold.. just a suggestion for you.
i put trans in my 1992 chevy pick up for years. no problems sold it the guy took it apart and told me the engine look bran new?
Putting thicker oil will only make it work harder and make it worse.
Bro never trans fluid in the oil. With these model ls engines (08 and above 5.3 6.0 6.2) have the cylinder deactivation meaning, while you are cruising on the highway at a steady speed the ECM (electric control module)(vehicles computer) deactivates 4 cylinders which adds extra strain on your camshaft causing lifters to collapse and bent pushrods, on the passenger side specifically, GM really goofed up with this idea trying to save economy and emissions, we end up doing a core replacement most of time depending how long customers drives it like that
It would certainly help you if u buy an engine stethoscope. And put it to the valve covers and you'll find your issue.
They have Displacement on demand which will deactivate 4 cylinders by shutting off the oil to the lifters for those 4 cylinders and the lifters will stick in the disabled mode or rotate and will also ruin the camshaft. The transmission fluid trick does work in the older '06 on down 5.3 but not on the D.O.D. 5.3. Putting thicker oil and lucus oil treatment was the worse thing you could have done. That engine needs the 0w-20 for the D.O.D. system to work. If you got it fixed since this video was over a tear ago it should have needed lifters and possible camshaft. The sucky part id you need to remove the cylinder heads to change the lifters.
With an 8 qt system, you use 2 qts of Lucas. It's 20% Lucas to the capacity of the motor💯👍🏽
Grrat vid💪🏽
I have a 2018 chevy truck 5.3 doing the same thing. Did it fix your problem?
He didn’t turn the motor off & let it sit for at least 5mins to let the oil drain back down into the pan, he checked it while it was running & added the transmission fluid with it running wtf
The active fuel management system can cause problems with the lifters. I had to replace the lifters and cam shaft on my avalanche. I took it to a shop and got the active fuel management system deactivated
How much did that cost you if you don't mind me asking?
I want to know also, please. How much did it cost to deactivate AFM? Thanks
@@GLOCKCOPG23 I'm still in research phase for this job. There's 2 ways to do this. One is do a computer delete or a OBD device cancel. These are the cheapest around $200, but NOT most effective. The other is a full AFM delete which will take out all AFM components in engine and replace with non AFM parts, but this is super expensive at around $4,000. I'm pushing towards the full delete to do it right but having a hard time finding a trust worthy shop to do it.
@@THANOS_Disciple Thanks for the reply and info. I hate that GM designed a failure from the drawing board into a good engine. Take care
Shouldn’t u use dexos oil?
Check oil pick up tube , remove the oil pan and see if it’s clogged and dirty maybe
You need that Lucas that’s what I used everything sounds smoother
The fuel management system that drops it down to a 4 cylinder is a killer. It is always the same lifer.purchase a delete that plugs into the obd port in the cab.before the damage.The trucks have a design flaw. If you are lucky and the cam does not have a flat spot, a lifter will fix it but without the delete it will happen again.purchase a oem or moog product do no put a cheep lifter in.I wish I had better news.
Just a waste of money. It stops it from activating but doesn’t do shit to stop the failure. The minority of the ones I repair have the plug in port already.
I'm thinking of doing the AFM delete kit but one mechanic quoted me at $4 and $5k. Another mechanic did not recommend that I do it because he said he did one at his shop and they could not get the check engine light to turn off afterwards and we are in a state that requires emissions test. Do you recomend full delete kit?@@Scummy_shovel
Bent pushrod easy cheap fix common on those year 5.3. .just did mine was making same noiise
Im not sure but i was told u always pour lucas first then oil on top🤷🏿♂️.
i got a 2000 gmc Sierra and ten years ago it started knocking like this i just started putting lucas in it at every oil change and today my engine is like new. i dont need lucas no more.
I have a 2004 tachoe over 260 ooo
Miles and no problem with the lifters.
I enjoyed it. All the best from Tassie Australia..
hp tuners delete dod afm and if u can get them them pop back up i took a prybar and put it in between the valve spring and rocker and rolled it over by hand and when it tight on the just pull up on the it abit not crazy and them pull the bar out and the lifter popped up but u got to unhook the coils and get all the lifters up them without starting it roll it over to build oil pressure up when u got good pressure u hook up the coils also dont forget to do the dod delete in the ecm or it just drop the lifters again dont forget to take the oil presurre unit aka sending unit out and clean it out good this is just a chance to fix doesnt work everytime but low cost the push rods can be bend they are cheap 4 bucks each good luck and this just want i have done to get it working ecm must have the dod delete from it or it will just fail again
Can try lucas oil synthetic stabilizer
To me, sound like exhaust manifold leak...but could be speakers on my cheap phone.
So what did you end up finding out with the problem?????
IMHO, you should not have done that. That engine has BIG lifter problems. Why did you pour that AT fluid in the dipstick access? This is getting crazier by the minute.
😂😂😂😂😂
Great info for my suburban too 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Do not put thicker oil in it, most mechanics know nothing about this,
What if you live in a hotter environment and the winter is barely cold? Would thicker oil be viable?
Every time you change your oil before you change it put trans fluid in or some things that Clean
Hey Bruh, my owners manual says 0w20 is the best make sure it says Dexos. My 5.3 is running very smoothly.
Put heavy oil in it. Won’t fix the problem but it will quiet the noise❤️
Hey, I have the same problem on my 6.2 escalade!
Sounds loke the exhaust manifold is leaking😮. Maybe a bad arcing coil. But bad coils usually make different pattern sounds- like S.O.S. Morse code. Not a steady consistent noise.
Back in the day they would pour that type. F transmission fluid right down The corporator while it was running.
Easy fix. Have it taken to get the DOD lifters taken out and replaced with normal roller lifters and then send it. It will last 8 times as long without those intentionally designed failure DOD lifters. I would never drive one of these GM V8’s with the DOD lifters in it from the factory. Basically 2007+. I would only drive a 1999-2006 GM V8 without the DOD lifters.
Don’t you have to replace the cam also? Pull heads ? Not an east job
@@slalomking You shouldn't unless it has been like that for some time, If the cam was worn it is usually plenty loud enough you should notice it.
@@TheDiamonddust1 pretty sure you do, since i have an 08 5.3 and the cam has to be replaced to do a delete, but mine's the ls4, so could be different
Your lifter is collapse you'll have to replace them... transfluid normally works with a lifter that bleeds down hammers at first start and then pumps up trans fluid will help keep one pumped up but on totally collapse all you can do is replace lifters midaswell toss a big motha thumper cam in while your their..
I feel your pain
Use Marvel Mystery Oil
Spectrum said they want they boxes back lol jk good video homie
I have a 2014 Chevy high country 6.2 and it’s doing the same thing? Is it bad to drive around like this?
Yes, eventually the lifter hammers away at the camshaft and either Cam lobe or the lifters roller will battle away at each other to see whos the strongest...
The camshaft may win if you stop the fight early enough .. 😄
5 quarts isn’t enough. That engine takes 8 quarts
That sounds exactly like a Ford when it taps. Get a Toyota, they will only make noise when it's cold start ups and only after lots of miles.
I don't see you using jack stands, don't trust just your jack, people have lost there live not using jack stands
If a so called mechanic ever tell you to get thicker oil never let them touch your shit. They sound like a Autozoner when someone asks what weight oil there vehicle takes and they ask how many miles on it.
Well. My gramps only runs heavy oils. 20 W.50! In his ford crown vics' Taxis. And they, all five have over' 600.000! Miles🚕🚖🚖and, they run, GREAT
It’s that system you have in motor where it stop using some of the cylinders to save gas the spring stays down so when it does use that cylinder the spring doesn’t spring back it’s on all the v8 Chevy has it no good I have a Tahoe and don’t want it to happen how many miles you have on that one
I have a Tahoe as well and concerned about it. I was thinking of doing complete AFM Delete Kit but it costs est: $4-$5k, and one mechanic told me that his shop did a delete kit but afterwards could not get the engine light to turn off and that's bad for states that have emissions tests. Not sure what to do
Check the manifold bolts gmc are known for braking bolts
Time for DOD delete kit and a stage 1 cam!!!
Which company do you recommend?
@@michaelduenas1364 AMS racing has kits which use genuine GM parts or you can obtain DOD replacement parts list and source the parts out yourself. There seems to be about 5 companies that come up consistently on Google searches which I would contact/research to become more educated on cam choices and your intended application.
I'm wondering the same? Which delete kit is best?@@michaelduenas1364
I got a 2007 tahoe I used thicker oil
marvels mystery oil. Lucus will clog up small holes in engine oil passages.
Thanks for showing everyone else that owns a Lemon, that aint nothing in a can or bottle will ever fix a faulty part or the $1000 Bill to fix it ..
Everybody Hopes and spends $150 on Hope(addatives) instead of saving that money and putting it towards the Lemon properly ...
PS If what you showed us did actually work, Would you have Sold the car to some other Sucker ?
Hopefully you realize the L83 requires 8 qts of oil. And 20W is for the tighter tolerances in the LT variant of gm junk engines.
Sea foam sometimes will unstick a lifter sometimes
MARVEL MYSTERY OIL WORKS GOOD TOO
What about tapping with loss of power? 2011 Sierra 5.3
Probably need to change the o-ring on the oil pump
What was the problem ?
You ever figure out what this was?
You had balls for that 😢🤣💯
So if my dip stick is full should I take oil out or is it okay to add
With that Chey I would add 1 bottle of MMO with every oil change.
Oil used should’ve had Dexos in it also
Dexos is GM’s approval. It doesn’t mean there’s anything in the oil.
Yikes. My 2012 with 170k is silent. Sorry about yer problemo