DIY Gourmia Air Fryer Repair - Will Not Power On - Thermal Fuse Replacement
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- čas přidán 4. 05. 2023
- My Gourmia air fryer, model number GAF 1220, stopped functioning. The power adjustment and timer touch screen no longer illuminated, the oven heat no longer turned on, and the oven showed no signs of life. Disassembling the air fryer, I discovered that a thermal fuse was blown, which is a common problem with any brand and model air fryer...and many other electronics that produce heat (hair dryer, microwave, mixer, etc.). Ordering a new thermal fuse from McMaster-Carr, I demonstrated how to replace the fuse, fully repairing the unit. Further, I showed in the video other common failure points on an air fryer (blown capacitor, burned electrical components, faulty micro switch) and how to measure continuity in circuits. A $100 air fryer was fixed in 30 minutes for $2.50.
Thermal fuses that might function for your device (confirm max temperature, voltage, and amperage):
amzn.to/49EPDJq
amzn.to/49pszhV
McMaster-Carr Thermal Fuse ($2.50):
www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/...
Air fryers on Amazon:
amzn.to/3OWKqnY
Attach phone holder to vehicle windshield with magnet (NEOS):
amzn.to/3yMJfCs - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Most important part of the video is missing … the dismantling🤷♂️
I mean...thats 50% of the reason i came here the diagnostic is good but danm litte help here
This is where I am stuck. I can get the bottom cover off but can't find a way to take the top part off in order to access the electrical components.
Open the door and look up there two screws take them off and bent back the six clips and on top the four screws and it will Left right off I hope I was clear enough I wish I knew how to take a picture of it not to good at this was just Experiment
I did it. So proud of myself
Lol….ion see no loes here 😅
The problem with mine was the door switch but I found out that the top black part of the air fryer ...you can prey open with a flat head has like 3 clips that holds that cover if u pull enough it opens then I removed 2 screws for the panel to get to the switch. Next I didn't have time to get a new switch so I contacted the 2 wires from the switch together and it worked 👍👍👍
Thank you! Excellent help. Your troubleshooting suggestions were great!
Did this and its my fuse also. I think this item should be recalled for this. So many people have this same issue
Just happened to me today I don’t have the time to do all this I’m just going to go get a better product and buy a warranty this time. This product didn’t even last me two years and my family didn’t use it much at all.
@@E3litecompany I went back without a resistor and been using it like that the last 3 months no problem lol
@@E3litecompanyme too!!less than a year it's dead😢
Heads up - you only have to remove that top black plastic square vent cover. You do not have to remove any screws to the display panel or to the upper black plastic frame. Leave the display panel alone. There are openings in the upper black plastic frame ( after you pry off the top vent plastic plate) and you can easily see the red and black wires tucked into the hole with white insulation sleeve around the thermal fuse. Just use long needle nose pliers and pull the red & black wires (with the white thermal wrap) out of the hole, there is plenty of slack to cut off the old fuse (after verifying continuity is bad) and replacing it with the new thermal fuse. There is a rectangular opening next ro the big round fan cutout opening, use that for plier access. Then pull the wires thru the round fan opening while you replace the fuse. Put it all back together - voila, you're done and saved yourself a lot of $. If this new thermal fuse faults again (like it has to so many of us, even though there is no fire nor even over heating) I will probably get the next higher temperature rated thermal fuse.
What size of thermal fuse to buy
Yes i discovered that after 30 min of dismantling. Thermal fuse no brainer ….. dismantling would have been helpful🤦♂️.
Yep. Really wish i would of read this before following this joker lol. Ended up just breaking two of rhe clips to get the top plastic off but it still locks back into place. Literally got 6 extra screws now afrer starting from the bottom up like he did.
Is there a video to take it apart
I just smashed mine pissed me off
PERFECT!! I Just popped top lid off little tight but it worked Thank you 💪🏻
Super helpful, thanks!!
Thank you for this video. I just successfully performed this, however there is a short cut. Pry that plastic middle piece, it's gonna break the tabs holding it down, just don't break the whole thing. The wires and fuse were jammed down a hole. Get some needle nose pliers, grab the white cloth part of the insulation and yank that thing out. Cut the old fuse off, use provided crimps and attach the new one, exactly like the old one. I didn't put the new fuse setup back down in the hole, left it bare. Used no soldering, or tape. Used only supplied crimp sleeves, included with the new fuse. Works great 👍
im doing mine now.. I have it almost totally apart can not figure out how to get off so breaking tabs sounding good about now! Is it going to be solid with the tabs broke?
@@tamimac4357Break em, I've had no issues. IIRC, one or two tabs survived enough to hold the top on after the procedure. I was going to break those tabs, or it was going in the dumpster. Good luck!
worked! thank you!!
For anyone that needs to know the important question of how to access the components in the top. Its under the top vent hood. You need to pull up the edge of the hood slightly and push the tabs inward with a long slim screwdriver, apply pressure towards the center of the unit. There is 5 tabs to unhook. Two in the front, two on the side, one in back.
Thanks. But that only removes the top flat square black plastic vent hood. How do you remove the bigger black plastic frame that the vent hood was attached to? I removed the 4 screws that attach it to the 4 tall black plastic posts, but it still will not budge. Are there other screws besides the ones that were in the 4 tall tower posts? Are there tabs on the sides? I can almost get the thermal fuse out of the hole just by using pliers even with the black frame still attached, but it will not easily slide out. Is the thermal fuse just freely resting in the hole, or is it secured?
Also I did remove the display and its ribbon cable - very easy. Just cannot get the black upper frame nor the thermal fuse to pull out of its hole.
There's a screw in the cooking chamber that needs to be loosened. It holds a bracket and a nut that the holds the wire. Looks like the heating coils and fan blade and metal plate have to come off to reinstall wire as per factory. It doesn't look easy to get the wire under the bracket from the little round hole.
@aphipps10 The thermal cutoff I didn't have much issue on my machine. The main problem for me was that the Kevlar wrap was holding onto the edge of the hole. I had to use a slim screwdriver to work it out of that hole. I'm not sure If it was secured differently on other units. I'm sorry I don't know for sure. When I did my thernal repair, all I needed to do was take the vent hood off, I was able to work through the holes in the top of the unit with needlenose pliers.
Wish you had also shown un-assembly video.
The fuse in the description says it's "Thermal Fuse, Inline Lead, 324°F Maximum Operating Temperature." The voltage shown is 250v AC.. I'm in the US. I'm not an electrician so i got a bit confused with our 110 voltage & as the unit goes 400+ degrees operating temp. I have the exact same unit. I'm not sure if this impacts the fuse necessary but I just wanted to confirm the link wasn't a mistake & this is the correct fuse before ordering it. My model is the Gourmia GAF1220. Thank you for this video. It helped a lot. I'm gonna take a shot at it if this is the correct fuse.
Thanks for asking. The link provided is for the correct fuse for the exact model oven I have. I'm not certain if you have the same model. I matched the specs of the original fuse I removed with the new fuse I purchased. Perhaps you can try the same. Just Google the PN of the fuse you remove. Another thought: the oven might very well (most likely will) reach a higher temperature than the wire on which the fuse is installed. No worries about that temperature difference. Sounds like you almost have your oven fixed. Good luck!
Yours still working? I'm having the same issue and am wondering if it blew for a reason or is just under sized from the manufacturer to sell more units.
Took me a while but here's the easy explanation the panel at the very top of the thing pops off and you can then unscrew it and get access to the motherboard
My particular air fryer is not heating the coils anymore but the screen works, any ideas?
I agree I have the same problem but I can't take the top off and I don't want to break a broken air fryer how do you get to the top?
I disassembled the top section one step further. The thermal fuse is held down to the metal top plate to put the fuse in contact with the surface of the oven for accurate temperature. If you just drop the fuse into the assembly it will only sample the air space temperature above the oven and not the oven temp. This could lead to meltdown failure before the thermal fuse breaks the circuit. Just a few wires that are screwed to the element, a couple of chassis screws, and the fan blade (not left-hand threaded bolt) and that will allow you to access the thermal fuse hold down.
Thank you. Excellent explanation. My Ninja Combi has an error code 2. I read can be themo fuse or something electrical. Have you have ideas how to fix one.
I would open it up and look for a thermal fuse that might be blown.
Hello
Fantastic video!
Had a similar issue with my Gourmia GAF698. Did a quick bypass of the thermal fuse like you did at 2:10 and it fired up. Got a new fuse of the same temperature and amperage rating.
Now about the connecting the fuse I can see soldering being fiddly and risking blowing the thermal fuse. Not a criticism, just wondered why you did not use the non-insulated butt connector (2:30) instead?
Regards
Cool. Glad yours is fixed!
I just used the butt connector that came with the thermal fuse.
@@JonathanMarkMorgan Hi
Thanks for the prompt reply.
Ok. Just got to do the final connection. Think that I’ll use a butt connector as well for simplicity.
Regards
Aphipps is absolutly right dont have to take it all apart and take any screws out just pop the top panel off and look to the left small round hole with black and red wire and white heat wrap around it pull both wires at same time after out clip both ends the fusr is in the middle i souldered mine put heat wrap back around it and zip tied the heat wrap on put it back into hole should be good to go. Popping the top off was the hardest part of the whole job. 😊
it is not just supposed to be 'in the hole' there is a hold down clamp that hold the thermal fuse to metal surface (screw is on the inside). That said, you are not far off, pop the top off, and you have easy access to the screws, to get the thermal fuse back under the clamp you will need to separate the top metal plate from the top plastic, you will need to remove the fan blade and it is left hand threaded, right-loosy if you will. If the thermal fuse is not in contact with the metal surface, the unit coud overheat without tripping the fuse.
I could only find 182c or 200c for the thermal fuse is it OK to go 8c over or is this to unsafe I'm afraid 182c won't be enough and will trip constantly
I personally would not use anything different than the original manufacturer part. McMaster or Digikey should have what you need.
Hello , I have the same air fryer but the screen keeps saying open. I open the door and close it again and it won’t let me proceed. Would it be a door censor that is triggered ?
Sounds very likely. At the end of the video I show how one might test the door open/close microswitch.
How do I fix the switch? That is my problem.
I had the same problem with mine after the second use, A piece of tape on the center of the the door where it comes into contact with the switch at the inside top of fryer fixed mine. Maybe a loose switch or out of adjustment.
I am also stuck and my until doesn't power on and the way I see the screws my head is spinning. Please post a video on how to access the top part, I am not able to open the until. I am scared, they should give me a replacement unit.
How do you get the top off where the circuit board is it won't release and I've removed all the screws???
You have to pry it. It's held on with little plastic clips. One clip broke on mine, but it's not noticeable.
@@JonathanMarkMorgan I think he means the next black plastic frame after you pry off the top vent lid with the 5 tabs. How did you remove the next black plastic frame? I removed the vent lid then removed the 4 screws from the 4 tall black posts, but that next black frame still will not budge. Are there more screws than the 4 in the tall tower posts, or does it also have to be pried from its tabs? Thanks PS I can almost use pliers and pull the thermal fuse out of the hole, even with the black plastic frame still in the way, but the fuse is really stuck in the hole. Does it just tuck into that hole, or is it secured somehow?
@@aphipps10 I don't recall the full details of disassembly. I likely disassembled more than I had to, but I did my best without having schematics of the device :) Regarding the fuse, it was not secured in any way in the compartment. Perhaps yours is just a bit stuck?
@@JonathanMarkMorgan yeh on some of the other Gourmia models ( the round models) they use a metal clamp to secure the thermal fuse to the plastic. I am pulling and twisting like crazy - it moves around, but will not budge out of the hole.
@@JonathanMarkMorgan finally got it out ( the thermal fuse). I got so frustrated that I used pliers and yanked very hard. It came out but in the process it sheared some of the red insulation off the red wire near the fuse. So I will just cut that part off and install the new fuse.
What would happen if you just bypassed the thermal fuse?
Can anyone answer what the safety concerns would be
Your house could burn down 🔥. Really, though, the device could reach unsafe temperatures, which could potentially start a fire.
My air fryer will run for a second then shut off. Will do this about 5 to ten times before running constantly. Same problem? You think
That's different behavior than I observed with mine. Maybe worth checking out at least, though.
Just wondering if that’s what happened to mine? My girlfriend said it got really hot and burned her food. So, she went to unplug it and said the cord was hot as well. Now it doesn’t do anything. I don’t smell anything burnt like plastic, so I’m hoping this is the issue. I don’t have one of those gauges to test it with, what other ways can I use to figure this out? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
You can expose and bypass the thermal fuse, as I also did in the video. That will confirm if you have the same issue or not.
same thing happened to us. did you end up getting this fixed?
@@kls701no. I threw it out and bought one that actually works the way it’s supposed to. Won’t buy anything with that name attached ever again!
Mine is 192c° and 15 amps but can't find this fuse anywhere online 😐 can I use a 192c° and 10 amps?
No. I would go higher than 15 amps, but not lower.
@@JonathanMarkMorganawesome, thank you!
has anyone purcahsed and used the fuses from amazon and confirmed that they work in this air fryer?
What is part number
It's in the video description
How open. Next video
What ungrateful people responding. If you can't get the plastic covers off. Don't play around with the electrical underneath. Great video. Thank you sir
Why make a video and not show how to take it apart. Good lord.
If you don't know how to get to the fuse , you probably don't need to be in there. He made a video to show us what would cause the problem , not to show us how to be a mechanic.
This is worth less, 👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻👎🏻
I think everyone came here to figure out how to disassemble the fryer. it was probably not show because things were broken in the process.
I did break one clip, nothing more. The disassembly process was not shown, as I was figuring it out as I went along, I did not have a stand to hold the camera, and I thought it'd be boring watching removal of a bunch of screws (which is really what the disassembly amounts to).
@Jonathan Morgan all the screws that were removed in your video were not necessary. The top vent cover is held on by clips. They are a pain in the ass to remove and will probably break in the process. Then there are 4 screws that hold on the top cover. All the electronics are accessible through that cover.
@@chinookmech cool. That's easier.
@@chinookmech i am desperately trying to get this cover off but i don't understand what I'm missing. whenyou say the top vent cover are you refering to the chrome part or the black semi transparent part on the top. I am assume the black semi part is held on by screws but the chrome part i can get under but no clips.
@@barrydillard2130 the top vent cover is held in with plastic clips. They are not easy to come off, but I used a putty knife and some persuasion. I broke one in the process but was able to epoxy it back on.