Lol between u and me....... I’ve been trying not to have to do it for years..... hahaha. I started when I was like 3 or 4 and did my first brake job by myself. Only thing I couldn’t do was lift the tires back up by myself. Dad says it was easier to teach me then have me keep sneaking in and messing stuff up lol. When I was born, we were one of the larger junk yards in the state, were retired now, but ur never quite outa the business when it’s what u know, we just work on friends and family stuff now though, or specialty projects other people are afraid of being able to handle or understand. Thx for watching and please like and subscribe to help my channel grow. Thx
Hey thx for watching. And dont know if it's rare or not. It was pretty much just lowest standard edition. I dont mean trans, it was auto. It did have a rare problem tho... alternator was messed up, but still lost charge overnight after replacement. After week of unhooking stuff turned out being dome light bulb was barely touching ground just enough to drain battery. After finding it u could see where it cooked little hot spot. Fixed and no more problems if anyone else has that problem. Thx again and everyone dont forget to like and subscribe to help all ur favorite channels grow.
Mine had a battery light come on and killed the stereo. I got it home and it restarted up and radio came back on. 4 hours later battery was dead as a door knob. I put jump pack on it and it started up then died when pack removed. So I put a fully charged battery in it and it's turning over but no start. Seems it's not getting fuel now. Any ideas?
Hey Steve Galloway thx for watching and commenting, andddd well yeah I got some ideas, sounds like ur alternator has went bad...... the light comes on when it the vehicle voltage is below 12v (well 12V-ish) which normally means alternator, especially sounds like it from when u unhooked jump pack it died, if the alternator was working correctly then it should have been able to keep itself goin. These and most vehicles are electronic ignition which means it needs enough power to send a spark to ur spark plugs, instead of like having points and condenser like on older vehicles. So when alternator quits, the vehicle can only run as long as the battery holds a charge. But now other stuff u said does seem a bit strange..... is the stereo a factory radio or an aftermarket someone installed? Or is there ANY OTHER wiring jobs done to the vehicle? And “sometimes” an alternators regulator can go bad and instead of not creating enough power, it can create WAY TO MUCH. The regulator keeps it between 14v and 16v normally. Anything more than 16v is rough on the electronics, so maybe it just popped a fuse going to computer? If it was me..... I’d check the fuse panel with a test light or volt meter, and make sure all the fuses are good. If u probe both sides of each fuse, u can see if any are bad bc one side of fuse will have power and other side don’t, then that’s the bad one. If fuses are good (exspecially any having to do with starting, like ignition, pcm, anything else having to do with its computer) it’s strange bc if u put a battery FOR SURE charged then it should have at least tried to start. Let me know the things u have done to it and if I can think of anything else I’ll try to help. A volt meter would be really nice if have one or can barrow one bc then I can tell u what is too much and too little also. And if u do check the fuse panel, some vehicles have 5v circuits so if one says 12v-ish, then one says 5v, that’s normally a “data” or communication circuit and normal. Don’t let me over load u with info, it’s just hard to tell u much without knowing more so let me know what’s happening and I’ll try to keep up with this. Thx again for watching and please like and subscriber to help my channel grow, and we’ll see if we can get u fixed. I want to know anything wirering that isn’t stock (like radios or amps ect) and if anything has been done to truck b4 it happened. Thx again latez
@@hiddenbigfoot Its an aftermarket radio that I installed. That's what I used to do as a job. I noticed the volt Guage was pegged out when this happened At the beginning. I have a Fluke 88 so I'll recheck everything again in the morning. I have an alternator coming in a day or so. I'm hoping to maybe find a bad relay or fuse so I can at least get it to start and get it out of my buddy's driveway and the 1.5 mile drive home. It's just odd that it started off the jump pack but won't now at all. My buddy said he accidentally crossed the jumper cables when we tried to jump it.. but only one sec. I hope it never fried the ECM
@@RedneckPunk yeah let me know what U figure out. Did he cross it jumping it b4 the jump pack or after the jump pack? And yeah “hopefully” it just knocked out the fuse, or it might even have an “in line fuse” going to alternator but when they do have those, it normally just stops it from charging the bat. Those in lines can be a real head scratcher when bad, but all the times I’ve seen it, it didn’t keep from starting. U could try squirting a small amount of gas into the breather to see if it hits at all, if it tries then u know it’s not getting fuel and work twards fuel circuit if nothing still then work twards computer circuit. Actually U can also check by the fuel rail by fuel injectors and see if there Is a sharder valve I think it’s called, little black cap that looks like a tire valve, it’s there to test fuel pressure, IF IT HAS ONE u can press the button under the cap and gas will squirt out if it’s working right. Just be careful with gas everyone..... but yeah my “guess” would be u just knocked a fuse so let me know what all u figure out. Thx again and everyone who’s reading please like and subscribe to help my channel grow. Thx and latez
Oh and when u replace the alternator, rewatch the video I posted, they could have made it a bit easier, and when I did do it at first, I started by unhooking the BRACKET to power steering pump, u just have to lossen the pump and slide it forward, NOT THE BRACKET. If u get it started and are gonna drive it with it over charging, u might look to see if there’s a way to unhook the alternator without messing up anything. Just see if u can unhook the plug or see if wire can be unhooked at battery easily. Just tape it to keep from touching anything on ur way home. And don’t mess around bc it won’t be charging if unhooked. U might even see if u have anything laying around that u can “smack” the alternator with, I know it’s a tight fit in there, but sometimes with electronics they can start working again and regulator was just stuck. I mean I’m sure it’s bad and will mess up again, I just mean for ur drive home. Thx again and hope anything I’ve said helps.
Thanks man my father in law thinks I been doing this for years hahah
Lol between u and me....... I’ve been trying not to have to do it for years..... hahaha. I started when I was like 3 or 4 and did my first brake job by myself. Only thing I couldn’t do was lift the tires back up by myself. Dad says it was easier to teach me then have me keep sneaking in and messing stuff up lol. When I was born, we were one of the larger junk yards in the state, were retired now, but ur never quite outa the business when it’s what u know, we just work on friends and family stuff now though, or specialty projects other people are afraid of being able to handle or understand. Thx for watching and please like and subscribe to help my channel grow. Thx
Awesome job bub!
V8 single cab? rare. cool truck.
Hey thx for watching. And dont know if it's rare or not. It was pretty much just lowest standard edition. I dont mean trans, it was auto. It did have a rare problem tho... alternator was messed up, but still lost charge overnight after replacement. After week of unhooking stuff turned out being dome light bulb was barely touching ground just enough to drain battery. After finding it u could see where it cooked little hot spot. Fixed and no more problems if anyone else has that problem. Thx again and everyone dont forget to like and subscribe to help all ur favorite channels grow.
Alternator /starter.Same pain to replace.Why did they do this?
Mine had a battery light come on and killed the stereo. I got it home and it restarted up and radio came back on. 4 hours later battery was dead as a door knob. I put jump pack on it and it started up then died when pack removed. So I put a fully charged battery in it and it's turning over but no start. Seems it's not getting fuel now. Any ideas?
Hey Steve Galloway thx for watching and commenting, andddd well yeah I got some ideas, sounds like ur alternator has went bad...... the light comes on when it the vehicle voltage is below 12v (well 12V-ish) which normally means alternator, especially sounds like it from when u unhooked jump pack it died, if the alternator was working correctly then it should have been able to keep itself goin. These and most vehicles are electronic ignition which means it needs enough power to send a spark to ur spark plugs, instead of like having points and condenser like on older vehicles. So when alternator quits, the vehicle can only run as long as the battery holds a charge. But now other stuff u said does seem a bit strange..... is the stereo a factory radio or an aftermarket someone installed? Or is there ANY OTHER wiring jobs done to the vehicle? And “sometimes” an alternators regulator can go bad and instead of not creating enough power, it can create WAY TO MUCH. The regulator keeps it between 14v and 16v normally. Anything more than 16v is rough on the electronics, so maybe it just popped a fuse going to computer? If it was me..... I’d check the fuse panel with a test light or volt meter, and make sure all the fuses are good. If u probe both sides of each fuse, u can see if any are bad bc one side of fuse will have power and other side don’t, then that’s the bad one. If fuses are good (exspecially any having to do with starting, like ignition, pcm, anything else having to do with its computer) it’s strange bc if u put a battery FOR SURE charged then it should have at least tried to start. Let me know the things u have done to it and if I can think of anything else I’ll try to help. A volt meter would be really nice if have one or can barrow one bc then I can tell u what is too much and too little also. And if u do check the fuse panel, some vehicles have 5v circuits so if one says 12v-ish, then one says 5v, that’s normally a “data” or communication circuit and normal. Don’t let me over load u with info, it’s just hard to tell u much without knowing more so let me know what’s happening and I’ll try to keep up with this. Thx again for watching and please like and subscriber to help my channel grow, and we’ll see if we can get u fixed. I want to know anything wirering that isn’t stock (like radios or amps ect) and if anything has been done to truck b4 it happened. Thx again latez
@@hiddenbigfoot Its an aftermarket radio that I installed. That's what I used to do as a job. I noticed the volt Guage was pegged out when this happened At the beginning. I have a Fluke 88 so I'll recheck everything again in the morning. I have an alternator coming in a day or so. I'm hoping to maybe find a bad relay or fuse so I can at least get it to start and get it out of my buddy's driveway and the 1.5 mile drive home. It's just odd that it started off the jump pack but won't now at all. My buddy said he accidentally crossed the jumper cables when we tried to jump it.. but only one sec. I hope it never fried the ECM
I'll go through it more thorough in the AM and I'll let ya know anything else I detect. Thanks for hitting me back
@@RedneckPunk yeah let me know what U figure out. Did he cross it jumping it b4 the jump pack or after the jump pack? And yeah “hopefully” it just knocked out the fuse, or it might even have an “in line fuse” going to alternator but when they do have those, it normally just stops it from charging the bat. Those in lines can be a real head scratcher when bad, but all the times I’ve seen it, it didn’t keep from starting. U could try squirting a small amount of gas into the breather to see if it hits at all, if it tries then u know it’s not getting fuel and work twards fuel circuit if nothing still then work twards computer circuit. Actually U can also check by the fuel rail by fuel injectors and see if there Is a sharder valve I think it’s called, little black cap that looks like a tire valve, it’s there to test fuel pressure, IF IT HAS ONE u can press the button under the cap and gas will squirt out if it’s working right. Just be careful with gas everyone..... but yeah my “guess” would be u just knocked a fuse so let me know what all u figure out. Thx again and everyone who’s reading please like and subscribe to help my channel grow. Thx and latez
Oh and when u replace the alternator, rewatch the video I posted, they could have made it a bit easier, and when I did do it at first, I started by unhooking the BRACKET to power steering pump, u just have to lossen the pump and slide it forward, NOT THE BRACKET. If u get it started and are gonna drive it with it over charging, u might look to see if there’s a way to unhook the alternator without messing up anything. Just see if u can unhook the plug or see if wire can be unhooked at battery easily. Just tape it to keep from touching anything on ur way home. And don’t mess around bc it won’t be charging if unhooked. U might even see if u have anything laying around that u can “smack” the alternator with, I know it’s a tight fit in there, but sometimes with electronics they can start working again and regulator was just stuck. I mean I’m sure it’s bad and will mess up again, I just mean for ur drive home. Thx again and hope anything I’ve said helps.
Was the alternator a 70 amp or 100 amp?
Honestly not real sure. Whatever part store gave me, I didn't ask for anything special so probably would have been whatever stock is or close