The Complete SWIX Ski Tuning & Waxing Tutorial
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- čas přidán 17. 10. 2023
- The complete ski tuning & waxing tutorial presented by Mitch Conner from SWIX! In this video, Mitch covers everything from the basics of getting started, edge tuning, base prep and final waxing. Visit us online to gear up with what you need, or for more helpful information!
Sundance Ski & Snowboard
www.sundanceskishop.com
SWIX
www.swixsport.com - Jak na to + styl
Finaly a you tube tutorial where every step is done correctly! Aweseome video!
subdividing the video progress bar with titles for each step would be very helpful.
This is the best tutorial I’ve ever watched. Incredible detail thank you
Thanks Mitch & Sundance. This is a truly excellent tutorial. Really appreciate the details you've shared. I'll replay this while I'm tuning our skis this week. And I'll 100% be buying Swix wax to support you!
Great video Mitch! Thank you
Great instructional video. Thanks!😊
Excellent instruction, thanks!👍
Best tutorial ever. Thanks
Thank you for the step by step and or the reasons for each step. Well done and I will watch this many times over. Can you make a list of the Swix tools used in the video? I am ready to re-do my way bench and set it up properly. Thanks again.
I do not know exaclty what products he uses but definetly go with swix products they are the best and their waxes are awesome too
What if you have a little light in the center when you run the true bar? In the center I am flat but near the ends there is a little light in the center. A bit concave but still light on the very edge.
hello, thanks for such informative and education video , I have a question about base bevel , If the base bevel has been set to 0.5 and then I use .5 guide to go several pass the base bevel still be .5? I have watched other SWIX tuning video's and I got the impression that even using diamond stone will increase the base bevel .
Hi Arash, you're welcome we're glad you enjoyed it. The base bevel is set to maintain that angle so it only cuts up to that angle. Multiple passes are recommended and do not increase base bevel. Once you hear the bevel tool stops cutting then you have reached the proper angle. The base angle will wear away after use, and then have to be trued up by using the base guide and a file or a stone. Does that make sense?
@alexandramessinis1490 thanks Alexandra for clarification 👍
You're welcome 😊
Amazing video. I'm wondering how your strategy would change at the beginning if the edges had some rust on them. Would you still order your tools as coarse stone -> file -> medium stone?
Oh man I was about 1 minute premature. You said to use the soft stone after I resumed.
Depends how Rusty. Use a gummy Stone to remove as much of the rust as you can before using the diamond Stone. It will prolong the life of the lime and Stone.
The soft Stone is best for removing more rust and the hard stone best for polishing. I hope this helps and makes sense. Thank you!
Really a comprehensive and detailed tutorial.
Some questions though:
1/ despite the claim that the base bevel guide doesn’t scratch the black base surface of the ski, I have to say that it DOES leave line markings on the sole of the skis. A real shame for new skis 😢. Si I’d rather advice users to protect the base by applying some masking tape before base filing!!
2/ I have the same objections to dewaxing the ski edges by using the wax scraper directly on the freshly sharpened edges. Unfortunately, wax really sticks very hard to the ski edges when hardened out and forms a film. Is it possible to use a wax remover on the edges to efficiently dewax the edge without using the scraper and dulling them or will wax remover rust the edge?
3/ how do we need to maintain sharpened edges in good condition for future uses?
For (3) you can run a fine grit diamond stone over the base and side edges (using the correct angle guide) once it has dried and you've wiped it off after skiing to keep the edges in top shape between full tuning.
@@blogospheric thanks, this is indeed how I proceed. I suppose the rough file is mostly used to cut the edges into the right shape, whereafter maintenance after ski holidays is mostly carried out by using only the diamond stones to take out burrs and to resharpen the edges.
Great video.
How come when you tune the edges you do not go all the way up to the widest part of the front of the ski?
Because you need the tips to be slightly duller than the rest of the edge to initiate the turn smoothly. If you sharpen right to the end I can cause your skis to stem apart and feel abrupt.
@@alexandramessinis1490 I've always thought people tune the edges from widest part of the tip to widest part of the tail. Then they detune those parts, if needed. I'm wondering if he left it out intentionally or this video is just a demo and doesn't cover the complete process.
I ski east coast where is hard pack and ice. So sharp edges are always welcome.
go to 26:38 in the video 👍
Would you recommend a coarse diamond Stone or a file for someone That's just getting into tuning? I'm on a budget. I'd like to be able to just buy the minimum amount of tools I need for a solid tune. My thinking was to get a 16 cut file and a 400 diamond stone. But i'm wondering if I should buy a course diamond stone (100/220) and a 400 stone instead??
Just get a gummy stone and a compact / pocket edge sharpener, which should come with a file included. All set for general / beginner tuning.
All this stuff really won’t matter unless you’re racing or just a ski/snowboard nerd that has way too much dispo income lol
@alexacerra I'm a ski nerd...without a ton of disposable income! I have 10 pairs to maintain. I need a real set up unfortunately
Does anyone know what table model is Mitch using? I don’t see it in the Swix website. Anyone?? Can links to the products/tools used be provided? I want to be like Mitch 😊
We sell them at Sundance but we are currently sold out for the season. We will have full stock of them again in the fall.
Have I been wetting my stones for no reason? I always thought stones needed to be wet
They work better if they are wet with citrus base cleaner. It acts like a lubricant and keeps the stone cleaner.
@@alexandramessinis1490 never tried that. It’s always been a spray bottle with water. His stones are bone dry
During the rough grinding process, water promotes cracking (easier to propagate cracks than in air) which is how rough surface gets removed. Subsurface damage is then removed with finer grits of diamonds. In general, the Preston’s equation describes the removal rate and related factors. In the final stage, I assume using the rubber stone does not create fractures anymore but rather plastically deforming the surface structure, allowing the surface roughness to further decrease.
Wet is better, either with the citrus solvent or just some water. You can add a drop of dish soap to the water to help suspend metal filings.
Watching this I think I learned: don’t do this at home