I would try drilling holes in the ends and gluing in pegs out of maybe metal coat hanger for front and back, instead of sanding pegs out of the ends. might give you that little bit of extra length too!
My son was a k'nex builder as a child. I thought of those immediately when I saw those struts. He managed to build a life sized shark framework that he then covered in "skin". It was so big, he could crawl into its open mouth. I love how these toys can unlock the imaginations of people both young and old!
+placid renegade I totally agree! 😁 And I am trying as hard to get them as I can. It's slowly going up. Please tell your collecting friends about Toy Polloi.
I love your videos showing how you repair existing damaged peces and replace missing pieces with repurposed found materials. I have been known to "MacGuyver" some fixes myself, for example my nephew asked me to fix his expensive paintball gun his parents gave him after he dismantled it couldn't reassemble it and lost all the little odds and ends. I was able to salvage a number of ballpoint pen springs and make othe parts from heavy duty large paper clips and folding binder spring clamps and I think I even increased the projectile rpms. I respect your creativity a lot.
I wish you had been around about 15 years ago! I had one of these - complete except for the struts. In the end, I used 'Plastruct' T-Beams, which were really expensive, even then, and made of ABS. plastic, which can only be fixed to polystyrene or acrylic with a liquid cement called 'Plastic Weld', which is great, but volatile. It evaporates so fast, it leaves frost on the brush. I did repair it, so that it looked like a model, rather than a toy - it was so nice to work with, and a friend bothered me so much about it, that I sold it to him to shut him up! Seeing this, makes me want another.
Seems these would be fairly easy to build from a few pieces of ABS plastic sheet and rod stock from the hobby shop. I would think that would be easier than modifying the knex.
6:40 you could also use that pin vise of yours to drill a hole into the K'nex stick and insert a rod of the correct diameter, it'd add a small amount of length 🤷
This is an awesome show of ingenuity. Replacing such difficult pieces is a very tough call, and I am truly impressed not only by the approach you have given it but also by the splendid end result. That being said, I must also state that I truly, truly, truly hate how the rear part of this toy was engineered. I still don't understand how the guys at Kenner got away with creating a vehicle that comes apart with the slightest handling. Sorry: I had to say it!
+Daniel Luque I agree. It's an awful design for a toy. Very fragile. These new struts are actually much stronger than the original ones as they are a bit thicker. I never had a ywing as a child, but I'm sure if I did it would have been broken in no time as it was not meant to be played with.
Yes, that's exactly what I think too! What's more: in my opinion those rear boosters should have been made in a much stronger plastic and also come allready pre-mounted / connected and glued together. And the insertion holes (so to speak) for the struts should have been made in a way that they really stayed totally in place and well put. I think that everything about the design of those pieces is plainly wrong. It looks great, no doubt, but this is a toy after all. I had a friend who owned one and he took both boosters out every single time the vehicle entered battle. So as a kid I never really liked it because there was no way of playing with it without removing the rear part. And what is most shameful yet is that all the new Y-Wing versions don't even correct that flaw... not to mention that they totally ignore the electronics. As I see it, this is a jinxed toy because Hasbro hasn't put any effort into it. And that is outrageous considering that it's super cool mold was made thirty years ago.
I just got my Y-Wing today. It's the 1999 Hasbro edition that comes with one of the Rebel Pilots from Gold Squadron during the battle of Yavin. I opened it, only problem was it was missing a set of struts... I hate it when that happens. I do however love it. It is so cool.
I realize im way late, but this is my first viewing of the vid. Silicone mold with hard epoxy resin cat from original part. thats way to go here. You still the man Toy Polloi
For triming down to a "smaller diameter cylinder" you might consider a hobby sized bench top grinder wheel an use it like a small hand held reverse lathe like action ( or similar action to a pencil sharpener).
It was nice seeing the work you were doing from a second angle. It helps us visualize the whole thing. Sometimes your hands move out of the frame too, the b-camera would also be useful in those moments, even if the camera is a bit distant.
+allluckyseven its a problem i often have when filming, keeping it all in shot. As i am concentrating on what i am doing, not what is in the frame. And i only see it when i come to edit the video. Ill try and use this more often.
If you should file down the end too much (which I did), put some superglue to coat the peg you made. Let it dry for a while and try it again. It worked for me.
I think you could use some of the clear glue dots, like the ones that you use to hang up posters on the wall without marring the paint would actually work really well to hold them in. They're also very easy to fully remove. Possibly try that?
Not looking practical, that would come to at least $185 american for a set of 8 here (Over $20/each before shipping). www.shapeways.com/product/D4ZADTR2W/y-wing-engine-strut-alternate?optionId=57535096&li=marketplace
+Tristan Howden I have never seen a repro strut, or the top gun mount. Or come to that a slave one ramp. All things that are hard to find. I'm surprised.
@@toypolloi whichever looks like the original stickers i don’t know which one looks similar cause the slave 1 ship i got has all the stickers but some of them are in bad condition
+Nikola Bakich Thanks. I'll check out the welding rods and see what they look like. Not something I have heard of before. If the do a x type shape it could work. Cheers
Just save the time and money and buy a nice complete one on eBay. Keep in mind there are two shades of vintage grey struts used on the Y-Wing. So you may be disappointed buying a single strut which might not match your others. A lot of the Empire and very early Jedi toys have two colour variations like this. Fun for us variation hunters. It's probably uk made versions versus the imported versions because sales were always high and outstripped demand. So there's two dagobahs, three different Cloud cars etc all sold in the uk. The Y-Wing was wave 1 Jedi when they had no idea it was even gonna be in the movie but suspected it might be, so was made during Empire colour swapping era
+yakjedi That is just not how I collect. I prefer to buy a beater and fix it up with time and patience. And there will be far more ywings out there without struts than complete ones.
+Toy Polloi but your not collecting you're building. It's no longer a Palitoy / Kenner toy. So why not just do a scratch build which will be much more accurate.
+Toy Polloi besides if 'that's just the way you collect' why do ask people for the parts you're missing in the video!? Seems like you do want the original bits but for nothing.
+yakjedi of course. I have another one that is original that just needs a few bits. And I always trade or give a badge for what I am offered. I restore many ships at one time.
Those snap blade knives are utterly useless. Blunt and not too sturdy. I use a surgical scalpel with No11 blades. Trim little shavings at a time but you get a clean fast cut that requires VERY little cleaning up. Just be careful as the are fecking sharp.
Před 8 lety
nice awesome video! like-like! welcome to my channel! new video every day!
Kind of thematic actually, when you think about it, since the Rebels were always fixing Y-Wings with whatever they could scrounge up
I would try drilling holes in the ends and gluing in pegs out of maybe metal coat hanger for front and back, instead of sanding pegs out of the ends. might give you that little bit of extra length too!
Those would seem a prime part to 3d print
I agree. I have a 3d printer. I got it from Amazon, and it was about $179 at the time. It is a Creality Ender 3 .
My son was a k'nex builder as a child. I thought of those immediately when I saw those struts. He managed to build a life sized shark framework that he then covered in "skin". It was so big, he could crawl into its open mouth. I love how these toys can unlock the imaginations of people both young and old!
It's a great toy line. And I love toys like that and lego that can also be used to do other things.
This guy should have way more subs
+placid renegade I totally agree! 😁 And I am trying as hard to get them as I can. It's slowly going up. Please tell your collecting friends about Toy Polloi.
nice work man ...yea eBay sellers are pretty ridiculous especially with the vintage toys ...
I knew you where going to pull out the K'Nex i just Knew it, great video as always ToyPolloi
+TheMarkedOne Thanks. Still looking for something that is just a bit more accurate, but these will do for now.
I love your videos showing how you repair existing damaged peces and replace missing pieces with repurposed found materials. I have been known to "MacGuyver" some fixes myself, for example my nephew asked me to fix his expensive paintball gun his parents gave him after he dismantled it couldn't reassemble it and lost all the little odds and ends. I was able to salvage a number of ballpoint pen springs and make othe parts from heavy duty large paper clips and folding binder spring clamps and I think I even increased the projectile rpms. I respect your creativity a lot.
I wish you had been around about 15 years ago! I had one of these - complete except for the struts. In the end, I used 'Plastruct' T-Beams, which were really expensive, even then, and made of ABS. plastic, which can only be fixed to polystyrene or acrylic with a liquid cement called 'Plastic Weld', which is great, but volatile. It evaporates so fast, it leaves frost on the brush. I did repair it, so that it looked like a model, rather than a toy - it was so nice to work with, and a friend bothered me so much about it, that I sold it to him to shut him up! Seeing this, makes me want another.
I closed my eyes every time you made a cut!!
+BluejuiceT4 so did I! Ha ha
That is an ingenious and awesome fix. It looks amazing.
Thanks. They are much stronger than the originals.
They look 100%. Fantastic job!
You should do a joke version where you replace the struts with LEGO lances!
pulled it out of the bag yet again, nice one..
one of my favorite repairs 🤙
Looks like a good fix!
Seems these would be fairly easy to build from a few pieces of ABS plastic sheet and rod stock from the hobby shop. I would think that would be easier than modifying the knex.
6:40 you could also use that pin vise of yours to drill a hole into the K'nex stick and insert a rod of the correct diameter, it'd add a small amount of length 🤷
This is an awesome show of ingenuity. Replacing such difficult pieces is a very tough call, and I am truly impressed not only by the approach you have given it but also by the splendid end result. That being said, I must also state that I truly, truly, truly hate how the rear part of this toy was engineered. I still don't understand how the guys at Kenner got away with creating a vehicle that comes apart with the slightest handling. Sorry: I had to say it!
+Daniel Luque I agree. It's an awful design for a toy. Very fragile. These new struts are actually much stronger than the original ones as they are a bit thicker. I never had a ywing as a child, but I'm sure if I did it would have been broken in no time as it was not meant to be played with.
Yes, that's exactly what I think too! What's more: in my opinion those rear boosters should have been made in a much stronger plastic and also come allready pre-mounted / connected and glued together. And the insertion holes (so to speak) for the struts should have been made in a way that they really stayed totally in place and well put. I think that everything about the design of those pieces is plainly wrong. It looks great, no doubt, but this is a toy after all. I had a friend who owned one and he took both boosters out every single time the vehicle entered battle. So as a kid I never really liked it because there was no way of playing with it without removing the rear part. And what is most shameful yet is that all the new Y-Wing versions don't even correct that flaw... not to mention that they totally ignore the electronics. As I see it, this is a jinxed toy because Hasbro hasn't put any effort into it. And that is outrageous considering that it's super cool mold was made thirty years ago.
I just got my Y-Wing today. It's the 1999 Hasbro edition that comes with one of the Rebel Pilots from Gold Squadron during the battle of Yavin. I opened it, only problem was it was missing a set of struts... I hate it when that happens. I do however love it. It is so cool.
great restoration toy polloi on y wing struts brilliant.
This is awesome!! Very resourceful and creative! Props to you!
I realize im way late, but this is my first viewing of the vid. Silicone mold with hard epoxy resin cat from original part. thats way to go here. You still the man Toy Polloi
Not everyone has the skills or time to do that, and it can be very expensive. I try to make my fixes the sort of thing anyone can do. Hence knex 😎
For triming down to a "smaller diameter cylinder" you might consider a hobby sized bench top grinder wheel an use it like a small hand held reverse lathe like action ( or similar action to a pencil sharpener).
Ooooh, B-camera. I like that.
Great work with the k'nex too.
+allluckyseven It's still an amateur setup! Just thought I'd give two cameras a go.
It was nice seeing the work you were doing from a second angle. It helps us visualize the whole thing. Sometimes your hands move out of the frame too, the b-camera would also be useful in those moments, even if the camera is a bit distant.
+allluckyseven its a problem i often have when filming, keeping it all in shot. As i am concentrating on what i am doing, not what is in the frame. And i only see it when i come to edit the video. Ill try and use this more often.
Cool!
Hi, I'm looking for help to restore my Y-Wing, finding struts, canopy,gun, and back engine circles.. Thanks Ross
If you should file down the end too much (which I did), put some superglue to coat the peg you made. Let it dry for a while and try it again. It worked for me.
This was incredible!! Brilliant! Thank you!!!!!
another thing that can be use is plastic welding rods they come in 450mm lengths
I think you could use some of the clear glue dots, like the ones that you use to hang up posters on the wall without marring the paint would actually work really well to hold them in. They're also very easy to fully remove. Possibly try that?
Could work well.
Very nice! Again a great video! 👍
brilliant as always 👍
Fantastic repair!!!!!
+Count Stankus cheers.
Brilliant video!!!
Awesome!!!
A Dremel tool would make your life so much easier.
great fix, but out of curiosity why do you never cast any parts?
+ryan barker I try to make my fixes the sort of thing anyone can do, and don't cost that much. Using bits you already have around the home.
The K'nex work really well. Too Bad they aren't longer so you could use one or two K'Nex along with some original struts.
+SEO Toy Review I'm looking at making some longer versions at the moment. Might still be possible. Give me a few weeks to work something up.
I was trying to think if K'Nex make a longer "stick" that could be painted. I think that is their standard long lenght. I'll stay posted.
+SEO Toy Review This is the longest one. I've been working on a fix for original struts which may work well on these to enable them to be made longer.
+Toy Polloi do you think you could pin and glue extra bit to make it the same length as original?
It's possible... just another step.
Just by looking at them I thought they where knexs. They might come in the right length you would just have to paint them.
Looks good. (You should never cut towards your hands.)
Stumbled across an old video I know, but why not just cast an original to make a mold, and mix a resin with grey acrylic to pour?
I try to show fixes most people feel they can have a go at. Casting and making molds etc requires skill, time and money.
thanks, I might be able to save a few more ships.
good stuff there.
Nice cheap fix, though someone on shapeways sells replica struts for the Y-wing there about $8,- if I'm not mistaking.
Not looking practical, that would come to at least $185 american for a set of 8 here (Over $20/each before shipping). www.shapeways.com/product/D4ZADTR2W/y-wing-engine-strut-alternate?optionId=57535096&li=marketplace
Disculpa, que objetos son esos que usaste para reemplazar los struts?
Knex rods.
I'm surprised lots of repro struts have never ended up on eBay.
+Tristan Howden I have never seen a repro strut, or the top gun mount. Or come to that a slave one ramp. All things that are hard to find. I'm surprised.
+Tristan Howden look at shapways they make star wars repro and upgrad parts
what kind of sticker paper do you recommend for vintage star wars slave 1
Depends on the finish you want, either gloss or mat sticky backed printer paper.
@@toypolloi whichever looks like the original stickers i don’t know which one looks similar cause the slave 1 ship i got has all the stickers but some of them are in bad condition
It's up to you. Neither is a perfect match. Some people prefer gloss, some mat. I tend to go for the gloss look mostly. But not always.
It's up to you. Neither is a perfect match. Some people prefer gloss, some mat. I tend to go for the gloss look mostly. But not always.
I have a few videos on slave one so check them out. You'll see both types getting used.
Knex
found some 3d print data about them .
Why not make a resin cast of them ?
Because this is easier and something anyone can have a go at. No point showing stuff very few people can copy. Cheers
Could someone direct me to these on ebay? Thanks
Use a drill and sand paper and file it down. Simple faster.
Why don't you use a Dremel Power Tool? Better than using plastic cutters and box cutter....
Because I like to show what you can do with minimal tools if I can.
You could 3D print that for pennies
+zamp6969 if only I had a 3d printer.
+Toy Polloi no shops where you live to do that?
+zamp6969 no, nothing at all. Don't know of anything like that at all.
shapeways makes repro struts
+Nikola Bakich and they are about as expensive as originals. These are much cheaper and a lot more fun to make.
yes you did a great job and like you said a lot better than the originals they dont bend too whats next i cant wait :)
+Nikola Bakich Thanks. I'll check out the welding rods and see what they look like. Not something I have heard of before. If the do a x type shape it could work. Cheers
i know there are triangular shaped welding rods and that on most y wing model kits they are triangular not T shaped
Polloi. NEVER cut towards yourself! that blade slips...and you'll see red! (your own)
You do great work, but you really need to invest in an xacto knife...
+Ethan Pace Yeah, probably.
Just save the time and money and buy a nice complete one on eBay. Keep in mind there are two shades of vintage grey struts used on the Y-Wing. So you may be disappointed buying a single strut which might not match your others. A lot of the Empire and very early Jedi toys have two colour variations like this. Fun for us variation hunters. It's probably uk made versions versus the imported versions because sales were always high and outstripped demand. So there's two dagobahs, three different Cloud cars etc all sold in the uk. The Y-Wing was wave 1 Jedi when they had no idea it was even gonna be in the movie but suspected it might be, so was made during Empire colour swapping era
+yakjedi That is just not how I collect. I prefer to buy a beater and fix it up with time and patience. And there will be far more ywings out there without struts than complete ones.
+Toy Polloi but your not collecting you're building. It's no longer a Palitoy / Kenner toy. So why not just do a scratch build which will be much more accurate.
+Toy Polloi besides if 'that's just the way you collect' why do ask people for the parts you're missing in the video!? Seems like you do want the original bits but for nothing.
+yakjedi of course. I have another one that is original that just needs a few bits. And I always trade or give a badge for what I am offered. I restore many ships at one time.
+yakjedi It is still a toy. And as a kid I never had many new toys so I would always fix or mend them in some way. This is what I still do now.
Those snap blade knives are utterly useless. Blunt and not too sturdy. I use a surgical scalpel with No11 blades. Trim little shavings at a time but you get a clean fast cut that requires VERY little cleaning up. Just be careful as the are fecking sharp.
nice awesome video! like-like! welcome to my channel! new video every day!