I can see a one-piece BB preventing that problem on a press fit frame, if it can be forced into the warped shell, but is there a similar solution für threaded ones?
Finally someone(Other than Hambini) that is getting the info out there, and letting the public know that big corporation brands can no longer get away with crap unjustified manufacturing quality and standard. A 4/5 grand frame SHOULD NEVER CREAK!!! it's simply not tolerable. When one buys a ROLLS ROYCE there are no Defects, it simply is'nt in their minds to let such low standards pass! Therefore the big brands should take head and watch more tutorials/informational videos like this and learn from them. Great vid as always!
Yes, you'd expect fitment quality from a Rolls because they are luxury cars. Mclaren cars are famous for fitment defects but are pretty fast, and race bikes are more like Mclarens than Rolls; they are built for speed not for luxury. Simple solution: vote with your wallet. People keep buying these, manufacturers keep selling them. Don't buy ultra expensive frames, spend your money elsewhere like a better drivetrain or better wheels. I use a sub $1000 chinese frame with shimano drivetrain. Yes it creaks after a while but the creaking does not make me slower, and cleaning + re-greasing it removes the creak until it comes back again after a few months. At least i did not spend big bucks on a creaking frame.
Great video, particularly the clear and concise explanations. I like to maintain my bikes myself, so this is well appreciated even if just out of curiosity. How would one do the same with BSA/threaded bottom brackets?
Interesting as always Paul. Can you advise me on a BSA threaded bottom bracket to replace the GXP Sram jobbie on my Planet X for my Rival cranks ? Just fitted a new one ( warranty with PX) as last one bearings were wet/ shot in 400 miles . New one just isnt that smooth ( as smooth as the first one when new) and think its the clamping axle length than alignment. I have chased the threads and was all good. Do I fit a HT2 BB and I have aftermarket spacer or a praxis etc ? There is no shims, spring washers etc to adjust the pre-load when tightening.
Just fix a standard SRAM one. They are cheap and work well enough. Don’t expect any better performance from anything else without spending hundreds and hundreds. Pay close attention to installation. Including volume of grease in bolt.
Great video! Do you have any concern that installing a one piece bottom bracket like Hambini's would "twist" the frame into alignment and cause damage to the frame?
No. The BB does not correct the frame, it’s just a straight connection between points. The difference is so small that you will never feel it, but it will allow bearings to run on their tracks
This is the BB trap that folk fall into. It will help for a bit and then start creaking again. Folk in this situation get led down that road throwing good money after bad. The Wheels Manufacturing idea works better when one side is oversized
I have a downhill bike with an aluminium frame and a seriously creaking bottom bracket. Currently I am running a DUB DH crank in a PF41 shell; the bearing are new. I have a rebranded Enduro black oxide PF bottom bracket. I assume it is an alignment problem, but because of the 107mm shell width, there is no way for me to go for a "thread fit" option. Is there any fix that could be done, e.g. by you? Can you give me a realistic estimate for the cost or would you need more information for an assessment?
There are a lot of things on a DH bike that can sound like a BB creak. However, if it is BB then it could be your cranks. Did you see any scoring or wear marks when they were out?
@@Mapdec Thanks a lot for your reply! I finally came around to checking on the bike, have been away from home for some time. I didn't reply immediately, because I first wanted to change the mounting hardware for the shock. Looked like that also contributed to creaking sounds. Now this is done and the creaks are still there. Up to this point I changed all the pivot bearings, the bottom bracket and cranks and the shock mounting hardware. Bottom bracket and cranks I changed, because I had to switch to a SRAM drive train anyways. Took the cranks out. There are some wear marks on the anodisation as shown in the video, if I am not mistaken indicating an alignment issue. Those wear marks are not that "serious" for now because the bike has seen maybe 150km since I rebuilt it. Maybe to be more specific: I have installed a new enduro black oxide bottom bracket, Rotor rebrands and sells those as PF4129, and I am running a used SRAM DUB DH crankset. Is there anything I could do or try? Switching to Shimano is probably undesirable for me, because those cranks are really old and they look it. Edit: The bottom bracket bearing on the drive side already feels gritty. Maybe the bottom bracket shell on the drive side is also undersized?
I had a noise that only clicked 2 times per complete full cycle, on riding uphill or first few cranks starting out from a complete stop; HARD to find on the stand with no stress! I just bought for my brother, a practically new bike from someone that never found time to ride it. I knew it was not a tired bottom bracket or anything serious of course; I found it was a loose nut on the back wheel; looks like it never got assembled right; there's only 300 miles on this bike, and it has a loose wheel nut? Not tightened to spec from the bike shop or factory. It was only on the left side away from the gears; was quite loose, without much play in it however; but not even finger tight.. 3/4 inch nut, or mm equiv. The loud click was from the loose nut and the lock washer caught between nut and main washer. Wheel did not come off when riding; but I'm amazed original owner did not see that, before selling it to me. It made all the difference to fix one thing at a time; test ride it, and I could tell instantly I had my culprit! Had to re-align the back caliper too; glad I just purchased a rotor alignment shoe that fits over the rotor when adjusting; worked like a charm; I find them difficult to adjust properly otherwise. It was definitely out of alignment once the wheel was on tight; it would not spin for long when on a stand, without realignment, and when I loosened the caliper, took it out of the equation; all was well... nice to have a bike stand, can't recommend it enough; if you like bikes, get a stand.
As long as the hole is round, to spec and perfect the pf30 is absolutely lovely :) my pf30 on my focus cayo is spot on, no creaks or squeaks. Props to the owner that cassette and chain is shiny af!
@@MS-bw7yt true that but i like it irrespective of what the engineering says. I have multiple bikes that have bb86 pf30 and bsa and i like them all equally.
Really informative video albeit a bit depressing. There's quite a high bar to getting it checked. I've almost come to the conclusion that it's better to have a professional check the bottom bracket hole for uniformity and alignment that you trust and has the skills, experience and tools before I ride a new bike. Almost need a trusted bike shop skills register!
Depends on the material, the BB dimensions and the manufacturer instructions. 1, check the installation guide and follow. 2, if your frame is oversized and you need some retaining compound select the right one for the job, including activator. 3, if no instructions exist, and the fit is good, then use a suitable assembly grease. Hope that helps.
Hi Mate, need your input please. I am building a 2014 Scott addict frameset, it takes a BB86 bottom bracket. I installed a Shimano Duraace grade bottom bracket. The installation process went well, apart from the occasional thud like sound when the cups were pressed in. After the installation both cups were nicely flushed against the frame, with no gap. When I inserted the crankset spindle on the drive side, it was very tight , I had to apply a lot of pressure to push the spindle through. The crankset rotation feels tight, when I rotate at some parts it's tight and then the rotation relaxes to a smoother roll on other parts. What could be going wrong here? I have installed BB86 press fit in the past on other frames and never had any issues. I had to apply a lot of pressure with a mallet to remove the crankset. Thank you!
@@Mapdec okay let me measure with a digital gauge, i thought the thud sound is normal. In addition when the cups are out the spindle is still very tight fitting
@@Mapdec most inner diameter readings are around 40.60mm to 40.75 range , that's acceptable I guess? ...thinking of using a wheels mfg thread together bottom bracket. Thanks
Some faulty products will always slip through any quality control, issues will never end. But lately it got easier to detect them and manufacturers became more willing to reimburse. Sort of a shame it took so long to figure out misalignment in this particular case though
It´s a 2012 EVO HiMod, superb bike!! I have one just like it. With a Hambini BB. Buy this frame, fit one and be happy, promise. Handling is spot on, will race you off your butt.. Rgr
I guess a bike frame with Canondales name on it, with a factory problem, is nothing to worry about. I guess all the bike companies are just as bad, and there is nothing to worry about. Because the competition doesn't look any better.
@@Mapdec I know this has been going on for to long, regardless on what the costumer spend on the bike. I can figure out why the bike companies can't do any better. It's not like they were first to shove bearings into a part and run a shaft threw and spin it.
Great video, that's some major underrotation on that axle.
Thank you. Almost sold a Hambini BB.
I can see a one-piece BB preventing that problem on a press fit frame, if it can be forced into the warped shell, but is there a similar solution für threaded ones?
Threaded BB will be metal, so can be made true easily enough.
Do you sell these gauges ?
@@JaiJai71104 it’s something I am working on. A little set for bike shops. It’s a bit of a background project at the moment.
Finally someone(Other than Hambini) that is getting the info out there, and letting the public know that big corporation brands can no longer get away with crap unjustified manufacturing quality and standard. A 4/5 grand frame SHOULD NEVER CREAK!!! it's simply not tolerable. When one buys a ROLLS ROYCE there are no Defects, it simply is'nt in their minds to let such low standards pass! Therefore the big brands should take head and watch more tutorials/informational videos like this and learn from them. Great vid as always!
Yes. And bike shops shouldn’t try and cover for their suppliers and blame components when the frame is really to blame.
Yes, you'd expect fitment quality from a Rolls because they are luxury cars. Mclaren cars are famous for fitment defects but are pretty fast, and race bikes are more like Mclarens than Rolls; they are built for speed not for luxury.
Simple solution: vote with your wallet. People keep buying these, manufacturers keep selling them.
Don't buy ultra expensive frames, spend your money elsewhere like a better drivetrain or better wheels. I use a sub $1000 chinese frame with shimano drivetrain. Yes it creaks after a while but the creaking does not make me slower, and cleaning + re-greasing it removes the creak until it comes back again after a few months. At least i did not spend big bucks on a creaking frame.
Really useful stuff ……. simple clear explanations and detailed illustration. Great showcase, thanks Paul. 👍
Thank you Kevin
Well put me on the list for a set ,great vid as ever
Very useful! Thank you for showing the tools you use to test the bottom brackets. I need to invest!
Glad it was helpful dude.
What a great video Paul👍. That bike wasn't cheap at the time. Seems like Look does a better job.
Thanks Carlo
Great video, particularly the clear and concise explanations. I like to maintain my bikes myself, so this is well appreciated even if just out of curiosity. How would one do the same with BSA/threaded bottom brackets?
You would simply ream and tap with relevant tools. Every bike shop ever has those tools
I wonder how many times someone has said "anyone interested in a Cannondale Supersix...with a slight bottom bracket problem? 😂
Had years of trouble with Bb30 since I bought a hambini bb no problems. Shimano 5 bolt solid cranks and hambini bb works just fine for me.
More Hambini BB on the way
Interesting as always Paul. Can you advise me on a BSA threaded bottom bracket to replace the GXP Sram jobbie on my Planet X for my Rival cranks ? Just fitted a new one ( warranty with PX) as last one bearings were wet/ shot in 400 miles . New one just isnt that smooth ( as smooth as the first one when new) and think its the clamping axle length than alignment. I have chased the threads and was all good. Do I fit a HT2 BB and I have aftermarket spacer or a praxis etc ? There is no shims, spring washers etc to adjust the pre-load when tightening.
Just fix a standard SRAM one. They are cheap and work well enough. Don’t expect any better performance from anything else without spending hundreds and hundreds. Pay close attention to installation. Including volume of grease in bolt.
Great video! Do you have any concern that installing a one piece bottom bracket like Hambini's would "twist" the frame into alignment and cause damage to the frame?
No. The BB does not correct the frame, it’s just a straight connection between points. The difference is so small that you will never feel it, but it will allow bearings to run on their tracks
@@Mapdec Thanks!
Hi, Where did you get the parallels from? Thanks Richard
Most engendering suppliers will have these. I was gifted this set.
Great video guys.
Don't Cannondale do lifetime warranties? Really disappointing for the customer though...
I personally think it would be interesting to test, but the owner would have to work with the dealer to find their proof of purchase etc.
How do you think a 2 piece screw together bb would work like a wheels man. or a token on a mis alignment problem like ths?
This is the BB trap that folk fall into. It will help for a bit and then start creaking again. Folk in this situation get led down that road throwing good money after bad. The Wheels Manufacturing idea works better when one side is oversized
didn't work for my bb30 at least
I have a downhill bike with an aluminium frame and a seriously creaking bottom bracket. Currently I am running a DUB DH crank in a PF41 shell; the bearing are new. I have a rebranded Enduro black oxide PF bottom bracket. I assume it is an alignment problem, but because of the 107mm shell width, there is no way for me to go for a "thread fit" option. Is there any fix that could be done, e.g. by you? Can you give me a realistic estimate for the cost or would you need more information for an assessment?
There are a lot of things on a DH bike that can sound like a BB creak. However, if it is BB then it could be your cranks. Did you see any scoring or wear marks when they were out?
@@Mapdec Thanks a lot for your reply! I finally came around to checking on the bike, have been away from home for some time. I didn't reply immediately, because I first wanted to change the mounting hardware for the shock. Looked like that also contributed to creaking sounds. Now this is done and the creaks are still there. Up to this point I changed all the pivot bearings, the bottom bracket and cranks and the shock mounting hardware. Bottom bracket and cranks I changed, because I had to switch to a SRAM drive train anyways.
Took the cranks out. There are some wear marks on the anodisation as shown in the video, if I am not mistaken indicating an alignment issue. Those wear marks are not that "serious" for now because the bike has seen maybe 150km since I rebuilt it.
Maybe to be more specific: I have installed a new enduro black oxide bottom bracket, Rotor rebrands and sells those as PF4129, and I am running a used SRAM DUB DH crankset.
Is there anything I could do or try? Switching to Shimano is probably undesirable for me, because those cranks are really old and they look it.
Edit: The bottom bracket bearing on the drive side already feels gritty. Maybe the bottom bracket shell on the drive side is also undersized?
I had a noise that only clicked 2 times per complete full cycle, on riding uphill or first few cranks starting out from a complete stop; HARD to find on the stand with no stress!
I just bought for my brother, a practically new bike from someone that never found time to ride it. I knew it was not a tired bottom bracket or anything serious of course; I found it was a loose nut on the back wheel; looks like it never got assembled right; there's only 300 miles on this bike, and it has a loose wheel nut? Not tightened to spec from the bike shop or factory. It was only on the left side away from the gears; was quite loose, without much play in it however; but not even finger tight.. 3/4 inch nut, or mm equiv.
The loud click was from the loose nut and the lock washer caught between nut and main washer. Wheel did not come off when riding; but I'm amazed original owner did not see that, before selling it to me. It made all the difference to fix one thing at a time; test ride it, and I could tell instantly I had my culprit!
Had to re-align the back caliper too; glad I just purchased a rotor alignment shoe that fits over the rotor when adjusting; worked like a charm; I find them difficult to adjust properly otherwise. It was definitely out of alignment once the wheel was on tight; it would not spin for long when on a stand, without realignment, and when I loosened the caliper, took it out of the equation; all was well... nice to have a bike stand, can't recommend it enough; if you like bikes, get a stand.
good skills .
As long as the hole is round, to spec and perfect the pf30 is absolutely lovely :) my pf30 on my focus cayo is spot on, no creaks or squeaks. Props to the owner that cassette and chain is shiny af!
I mean good for you, but that doesn't change the fact that engineering wise PF30 is just shit...
@@MS-bw7yt true that but i like it irrespective of what the engineering says. I have multiple bikes that have bb86 pf30 and bsa and i like them all equally.
PF30 Should be the best option, except for issues like this. If the factory could make it, PF30 should have been the winner.
Really informative video albeit a bit depressing. There's quite a high bar to getting it checked. I've almost come to the conclusion that it's better to have a professional check the bottom bracket hole for uniformity and alignment that you trust and has the skills, experience and tools before I ride a new bike. Almost need a trusted bike shop skills register!
All bike shop should be trusted. One day….
When replacing a press fit bottom bracket in a carbon frame, would you recommend using any grease?
Depends on the material, the BB dimensions and the manufacturer instructions. 1, check the installation guide and follow. 2, if your frame is oversized and you need some retaining compound select the right one for the job, including activator. 3, if no instructions exist, and the fit is good, then use a suitable assembly grease. Hope that helps.
@@Mapdec Many thanks. It's a Shimano BB72 nylon BB. I've fitted it dry. Should I remove and grease? If so, what grease should I use?
@@jimwilliams2239 BB72 is dry. si.shimano.com/en/pdfs/dm/GN0001/DM-GN0001-26-ENG.pdf
@@Mapdec Phew! Thanks very much. By the way, I love your videos!
Thanks Jim
Hi Mate, need your input please. I am building a 2014 Scott addict frameset, it takes a BB86 bottom bracket. I installed a Shimano Duraace grade bottom bracket. The installation process went well, apart from the occasional thud like sound when the cups were pressed in. After the installation both cups were nicely flushed against the frame, with no gap. When I inserted the crankset spindle on the drive side, it was very tight , I had to apply a lot of pressure to push the spindle through. The crankset rotation feels tight, when I rotate at some parts it's tight and then the rotation relaxes to a smoother roll on other parts. What could be going wrong here? I have installed BB86 press fit in the past on other frames and never had any issues. I had to apply a lot of pressure with a mallet to remove the crankset. Thank you!
Did you measure the shell diameter?
@@Mapdec yeah looks good at 41mm
It measures 41mm all the way round? That bb would have slid in so easy.
@@Mapdec okay let me measure with a digital gauge, i thought the thud sound is normal. In addition when the cups are out the spindle is still very tight fitting
@@Mapdec most inner diameter readings are around 40.60mm to 40.75 range , that's acceptable I guess? ...thinking of using a wheels mfg thread together bottom bracket. Thanks
Another great one. I hope this type of thing ends. but I won't be surprised if there will be issues like this for decades from most brands.
Some faulty products will always slip through any quality control, issues will never end. But lately it got easier to detect them and manufacturers became more willing to reimburse.
Sort of a shame it took so long to figure out misalignment in this particular case though
Thank you
It´s a 2012 EVO HiMod, superb bike!! I have one just like it. With a Hambini BB. Buy this frame, fit one and be happy, promise. Handling is spot on, will race you off your butt.. Rgr
Awesome hill climb bikes
Are you really going to sell that knowing the problem with it?
Sure. All it needs is a good BB and someone has a great bike. I’m told lots of people still like rim brake frames. 🤷♂️
So long as they're forthright with the issue there's no problem here. Who knows maybe someone wants to tinker with it
Where i can buy tool from 1:44 czcams.com/video/fF1j8wISVpY/video.html ?
I would like to know that too.
I guess a bike frame with Canondales name on it, with a factory problem, is nothing to worry about. I guess all the bike companies are just as bad, and there is nothing to worry about. Because the competition doesn't look any better.
The brand name is irrelevant in this video. You will encounter issues almost everywhere. Only a few brands ever paid attention to this issue.
@@Mapdec I know this has been going on for to long, regardless on what the costumer spend on the bike. I can figure out why the bike companies can't do any better. It's not like they were first to shove bearings into a part and run a shaft threw and spin it.
That's a good classic frame and looks otherwise well maintained. Too bad after Brexit import tax to EU and shipping make the purchase unreasonable
It is in great condition other than this.
People cycling on a racingbike have , in general, no idea about proper maintenance, and the bike shops either.
Bold
If your cannondale doesn't creak its most likely a fake frame 😂. I have a real cannondale though 🤣🤣
🤣