Forging Mosaic Canister Damascus, Pattern Welded Steel For Knifemaking, Bladesmithing
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- čas přidán 8. 03. 2021
- Can I forge a repeating pattern bar of steel with a canister?
My Website: firecreekforge.com
I'm using grinding belts from Empire Abrasives for this project.
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#mosaicdamascus #canisterdamascus #blacksmithing - Zábava
I like how chilled your videos are dude.
Is there a "part 2" video? Great work man, congratz
Great build, I really appreciate the technical details you include
Now stuff some small little ball bearings down the next canister and compare the patterns. Nice work
I kinda thought the same thing, but still like to see how this turns out.
I have been with you for a 1/2 a year and now have left alec steele due to lack of edged weapons, and wanted to say thank you for your channel and hard work.
Thanks! I appreciate it.
First time I have seen your beard! I'm jealous! It's the best ever
I love that you include your mistakes and own them. Great work!
I love canister damascus patterns... love watching your videos!
Good stuff, looking forward to seeing the blade and how the pattern looks in the end.
Thanks!
You should have added small ball bearings to those voids, that would have been a crazy looking pattern but you have some cool ideas with those patterns
OK guys what do think, will it work??
Looks like it will. Wondering what cable of the same size as the round stock would look like?
@@JohnJohnson-bg2oo cool idea
@@FireCreekForge I saw another fella use copper, cables and a core of 80 crv2, or 15n20 in a cu mai blade that turned out pretty nice, using the same setup you did for forging the cuts together, is what reminded me. Be looking for the finished product.
@@JohnJohnson-bg2oo cool!
Love to see the finished knife. Also ball bearings giving little dots along with the big dots. And turning it to make it an x pattern so it doesn’t look off center
That forge press works damn good from what I can see.
Need a small funnel for powdered steel. Easier to fill less waste
Really cool concept, you really have a great idea.... can’t wait to see the final knife with a mosaic pattern in the blade!
Thanks!
@@FireCreekForge you're welcome
So I go around recommending all kinds of crazy ideas. One has been involving nuts and bolts.
Shurap, one of the guys I watch, did a pattern of nuts and bolts but his orientation was short bolts in nuts side by side horizontally.
My thinking was longer bolts, say six inches, all thread with nuts of different grades thread onto the bolt.
I'm thinking a large bolt, at least one inch, but also a canister job with smaller bolts, but many of them.
The question is, will it weld fast enough to avoid a void between the nut and blot as it is flattened? Or twisting.
Wish I had found this stuff earlier in life as it isn't too late and actually have a couple knives I had been working on, one inherited project my dad was working on, but not welded Damascus, but I'm running out of runway, so to speak, but with a million ideas on how to create patterns..
Latest, canister with different sizes and grades of cable, mixed with nuts and bolts and round and square rod, all mixed in a canister with some powder.
Also, after watching how Shurap arranged them, what about a nut with a ball bearing in the center, flat and horizontal, powder and then another level/row.?
This one, this pattern you just did makes me wonder if you could create letters and then mix and match to spell things?
Who wouldn't want a knife with their name forged into it?
Nice job! Can't wait to see it become a blade
Really cool and unique. This pattern is a 1st for me. Well done!
Thanks!
It's amazing just how handy a spoon can be
Can't wait to see the blade that is a interesting pattern 👍👍👍
It’s looking good, the final pattern in the blade will look awesome. Regards from Down Under
Thank you!
Những sáng tác của Sỹ Luân nghe mãi ko phai.. Phúc hát rất hay và ấm áp
Me after watching forged in fire show: "oh man he's going really aggressive on that second pass"
You're very impressive to observe. My computer skills are no match for your knowledge.
I have seen a video where they use Tipp-ex paint on the inside of the can and the shell comes right off when forging. I 100% belive this would work coz I use tipp-ex myself on my Goldsmith work when I don't want solder to flow every where
I’ve seen other videos on canister Damascus and a few that used powdered steel drilled a small hole in the end of the canister. They said that it was there to allow any gasses and other impurities that may form in the can an escape so they don’t end up in the final pattern. I’m not a blacksmith so I’m not sure if that’s needed but it may account for the water that was definitely visible when you were cutting the billet on the chop-saw. Also try drawing out the billet (after removing the can) to 1/2 size the pattern may be smaller but you could try a number of different techniques with the same amount of material.
You are doing some cool stuff! Awesome work!
Thanks!
I love the experimentation process! Cool results man!
Thanks man!
With these metal 3D printers I've wondered if you could make a repeatable patern with the powered steel. It would ki d of be like damasteel I guess but with carbon steel instead. You have awesome ideas thanks for sharing 👍.
It's working perfect, looking nice. Cheers 👍
**gasp** It's like Binging With Babish and Alec Steele had a baby! Totally subscribing!!!
@Richard Aubergine I haven't, but thanks for the recommendation, he seems awesome!
This is gunna be so cool. Good job brother
Thanks man!
That 10-95 eating up those blades huh....enjoy watching the work. Wish I had more than propane, angle grinder a hammer and anvil at this point... lol BTW nice lines you laid down with that arc welder!
Regular white spray paints mostly use titanium dioxide as a pigment, just use that instead of expensive ass liquid paper. Literally the same thing.
That's what I use now, works great
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls God Bless Ya 🙏
Looks like you got good looking billet!!
Awesome job maaan!!
It almost looks like a dogwood tree flower. Perfect for up coming Easter holiday dinner time!👍🏻
Ps. I’m still waiting patiently for you to make the hammer, when your ready.🙏🏻💪🏼👍🏻👍🏻
That's cool man.. the possibilities are endless with patterns and materials you can use for that.. great video!
Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed your video and I gave it a Thumbs Up
Use plain Milk of Magnesium to keep the metal from sticking to the sides. What jet aircraft engines hot sections & afterburner sections used on the bolt to keep the nuts from forging together.
i wondered about plain aluminium foil , would form alu oxide
Try this pattern again and use ball bearings as well. I believe the ball bearings will complete the look as well as turning the original pattern to the corners so the lines won’t be as noticeable off center.
Good job! Interesting pattern!
Thanks!
Awesome pattern ... Thanks for sharing👍
Thanks for watching!
@@FireCreekForge Also a new subscriber
@@bwardokc3985 cool!
It turned out good I've been having luck with the white primer I just spray the can twice
Looks awesome
Great video, you could call this billet the shamrock. You have a row of 4 leaf clover.
Thanks!
Grats
4leaf clover pattern just in time for st Patrick’s day
Rustoleum white paint. Spray the inside of the can and dry it with a heat gun.
Yep I use the paint now
Love these experiment videos, really coming up with some neat ideas.
Thanks, it's fun!
👍cool pattern.
Yeah fill those open areas up with any kind of metal stuff be it little screws, bearings, fishhooks, and or little lock washers
Great work. Just came across your channel.
Awesome, thanks!
Good content. Thanks for sharing. Will you be uploading a follow-up video? I'm sure I speak for a lot of folks who are interested to see how it turned out.
Thanks for watching, yeah I need to make a knife out of the billet..
Anyone else just like his videos before even watching because you know it’s going to be kick ass?
bet some chopsticks might be useful for moving that foil back into shape. you'd have a point, flat end and a edge to push it into corners and the length to maneuver deeper into the can.
“Scraping the earth in search of the essence
Metallic rock ore where iron is present
Extraction smelters burn hot with phosphorescence
Altered shape, affected matter
Giving form, an ominous factor
Never break it, it will never bend
The Anvil was Forged In Fire” - Anvil, “Forged in Fire”, 1983
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I would add chrome steel bearings and powdered steel to the can
Very cool!!!!!
Stupid question. But wouldn't a metal zip tie be a better idea due to the heat generated from the welding? Sry, just getting into BSing at 40 yrs old and trying to make sure I'm doing it correctly, tnx!
Yes, however it wasn't on long enough for that to happen...
@@FireCreekForge tnx brother! Fingered it wouldn't hurt to ask lol
Really think using steel ball bearings may have gave you a better look, good job.
I have a question I see you used the white out as a barrier between the canister and the steel. Why not used a harden-able steel canister so you don’t have to remove it after the initial forging. It might add an extra mosaic layer. I do not forge but it’s something I’ve always wanted to ask when watching forged in fire.
I wonder,,,, what pattern you would get if you put a different steel powder in each section????
Maybe next time you can try to pack the container with the powder steel and then place your design in…Using the powder steel as a brace of some sort
use a difus filter for the camera for the welding parts
I like your videos, just finished watching how to soften tang to drill video. I just finished a nice small integral guard but tang is hard. Will heeping blade portion in water help keep it from heating while i soften the tang?
Yep, that should be fine. I recommend getting the tang up to your target heat as quickly as possible; the heat has less time to travel up to the blade that way.
What about clay to stop the heat from traveling?
Random late question, why not use a canoe canister? You'd be able to dictate the pattern a lot easier. It would have allowed you to set each piece of the core pattern without fear of I getting too distorted when you do your welding passes.
Interesting that the 15n20 etched dark.
Yeah and I think the ferric chloride solution was too strong so that contributed I think
@@FireCreekForge Yes. But even with that, it should have been lighter than all of the other steels right?
I like the idea but it might have a cooler designs if you put little ball Berings in the gaps before you put in the powdered steel
anyone ever suggested making damascus steel 'something' from all of the used canister parts? :D
you could forge weld some thin pieces together back to back, then it will be thick enough to cut into cubes, have a cube based damascus steel knife
That pattern is very close to the forget-me-not flower pattern. My wife is a pro chef and her favorite flower happens to be the forget-me-not. I'd pay serious $ for a chef knife set if you could figure it out.
Man I can't stop looking at that beard. You would make a Neanderthal jealous! Thanks for the awesome videos
Interesting how the powdered steel seems to be darker on the edges of the rods after forge welding. Also how do you get water from forged steel?
I have watched alot of these forge guys make big fancy knives that no one will ever use unless they are mercenaries. I would love to see you make a damascus steel blade for a mower! Now THAT would be functional!! Love the videos and the technical info you give.
Why? You would never see it and the whole point of Damascus is to visually see the patterns you created. Plus it takes way longer to make a patterned steel.
@@david_kg NO, the whole point of damscus steel is to create a blade that has the best characteristics of both of the metals used. It had nothing to do with looks until recently. This technique allowed blacksmiths to create a metal that was both hard, to retain a good edge, and flexible enough to not be brittle. So it would be perfect for a mower blade where you want a longlasting edge but not a brittle blade. If you only want the "look" you can go buy fake etched blades at Wally World for 20$.
You need some kind of band-saw
Try it again but instead of all steel powder add some ball bearings in the mix
You should try making a canister out of plaster or cement , and then you wouldn't need to worry about paint or foil . Like a FZ knives does all his in wootz steel builds .
Hey man!
I just read your message on your channel and I am so happy to hear that you are a Christian!!
Watching your videos I wondered...you can tell a Christian. 👍👍
I would love to know how much the billet weighs in the beginning and how much is lost at the end. I'm just curious
what brand of spoon do you use?
You're quick with the press, did you get a foot pedal on it yet man?
When casting bullets It is recommended to cover the inside of the mold with soot from a flame to prevent the lead from sticking to it. Would this work for this process.
* disclaimer: I know nothing about this topic other than what I see you doing on the videos.*
That can came out really clean and easy, unlike a certain TV show .
Had seen the white outbefore , but not the foil.
Good pattern and a great idea!
Perhaps make the pattern a bit smaller (say, half a knife wide) so you can repeat in a 4x2 pattern perhaps?
Whenever you get a pattern you like, I can see it usefull to make a longer pipe and stock for 2-3 knives :)
Thanks! I thought about drawing the bar out and quadrupling the pattern, which would have been cool but I wanted to keep it a little lower tech this first time around.
Just saw the video and looked through your other vids. Have you finished this one yet? No rush. Just curious how it turns out.
Not yet, hopefully soon
have you tried putting the empty canister in the forge to develope scale inside it so the billet doesnt stick.
Not yet
Nice stuff, but you need a mill for surfacing your roughs, tryin to help.
Yes, that would be helpful
Just a question, did you clean the inside of the steel before you applied the white out? If not maybe that is why it didnt stick well?
I found that the "Dollar Tree" has BIC White out for only $1/ea and that is much cheaper than anywhere else i have found. A 2 pack at Amazon is $3.90/ea!
I cleaned it with acetone.. maybe it's the brand.. Anyway, I've had good luck with white spray paint since this video
hello, thank you for the nice video, what is the powder you poured into the iron mold?
Thanks! It is powdered 1095 steel
Looks like you need a band saw.
I do need a bandsaw
Looks like it ought to be good to me wish I had the extra money to make a order with you I really like and appreciate your work what kind of large bowie could I get for say 600.00 please let me know what we can work out
Instead of "correction fluid" why not use "good quality" white paint, the white pigment is Titanium Dioxide (in cheap / poorer quality paints it can be Zinc Oxide). Going to be a bit hit or miss which type of paint to use as some have more plastics than others to bind the finally dried paint but it will bond to the inside wall of your can far better. Just a thought.
Yes I'd thought of that, haven't been able to find any titanium dioxide content paint yet...
@@FireCreekForge I was lead to believe all the good quality white paints are Titanium Dioxide, stays white, whereas Zinc Oxide is a bit grey and gets greyer with age. If I come across any, I'll let you know the make (I am in UK).
@@hoperp1951 thanks, i bought some for another project that is supposed to be good stuff, and it says zinc; some paints don’t say either way so hard to know..
@5:38 have you ever tired using all the steel shavings from all the grinding instead of powdered steel? I mean it goes into a bucket most places ive seen, why not try that?
I've watched a few of your videos now where you try white out, foil and ultimately settle on white paint... Why don't you just not worry about any of that, do it as it is then band saw the box section off after forging?
I think the white paint is easier for several reasons, plus saves on bandsaw blades
@@FireCreekForge interesting, well I've seen it work really well so can't fault you on it - tried white enamel paint or pottery glaze (glaze the inside of the can and fire it to make a glass layer) or even a watered down clay liner?
Sorry, kinda fixated on this one lol I'd watch a video exploring different ideas on it.
Is there a part 2?
Can you not get your hands on zircon paint (it'[s sold as a refractory protective coating over here)? Just pour some into the cannister, invert it and let it drain back. That'll give you a reasonably uniform coating on the interior.
wow it looks like it was 15n20 powder and 1095 sheet
Sir. Have you try using Stainless Steel Hose Clamps, so there not some much Welding? I am just asking. I saw a Blacksmith doing it and she the only one so Far?
I've heard of it, but haven't tried it yet
Could you beed blast the interior of a can ?..thus helping the white out to stick..
That would probably help
Try putting that whiteout on thinner. Several coats. It's not engineered to go on that thick, so when it dries the surface tension breaks it apart when it shrinks. Why can't a guy just use a few coats of white spray bomb? If all you want is a layer of titanium dioxide inside there, why not a spray bomb? In fact, this might be an interesting video.. testing different internal canister preparations.
Cool
White spray paint works great. The cheap stuff at wal mart is like $2.
what is the name of the liquid where you put the piece of steel?