BTW you can get full frame 50mm f/1.4, which is a larger aperture than this 0.95 APS-C lens, that are sharper, and have autofocus, for similar money used
Yep, if you have a full frame camera more options are open to you. APSC shooters have to resort to sub-1 apertures to get the DoF achievable with a full frame camera at f/1.2. These f/0.95 lenses only work on crop sensor cameras anyhow, so they’re basically irrelevant to full frame shooters.
@@OzExpeditionsWhat camera system are you using? The Canon EF 50/1.4 can be had on eBay for under $200, or if you’re willing to give up autofocus a Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4 goes for $80.
@@OzExpeditions Nice, with a mirrorless you can adapt almost any DSLR / SLR lens without corrective optics. I’d look for a Minolta MD to Sony adapter and try out that Minolta lens. With focus peaking in camera manually focusing should be a breeze also.
It's sharp for f/0.95 and I honestly thought the photo looked plenty sharp. Also, the fact that it's THAT good at f/0.95, it's really really sharp at f/2 and gets better until f/4. Then stays pretty solid until f/8 I'd say. This is as sharp at f/0.95 as most high end lenses are at f/2.8
I have the 16mm 1.4, 30mm 1.4 and this 35mm f0.95. It doesn't replace the auto focus on my sigma but is definitely better at creating a shallow depth of field
I love it, but has no internal stabilization. So make sure you have steady hands, a tripod, or a camera that has it's own ibis. People complain about the manual focus, but I've pulled my own focus on a lot of projects. You just have to learn to do it
I have one, I didn't think I'd like it as much as I do. It's the only prime I have and I basically take it out when it gets too dark for my other lenses while I'm out hiking. Then I'll sometimes just use it if I left it on from the last time.
i was once shooting around with my retro Minolta GM 80-200 in a very small village when i met a guy with a Fujifilm and this exact lens. Beautiful camera and lens!
I have this lens in m43 mount and it's amazing. Not something i use 24'7 but the bokeh and background separation is noticeably stronger than the 30mm 1.4 i usually keep on the camera.
I have some objections to the images being shown and the narrative of the video. The "wide open" shot is black and white? Hiding chromatic aberrations? Most of the other (if not all) are not wide open not showing that "perfect" quality when open. I have seen a fair few cheaper 0.95 reviews that where honest in their photos and these are lenses that more than often need to be stopped down to f1.8 / f2 for acceptable quality with wife open being a "cool effect but not really all that good quality". Was this content sponsored?
I doubt I’ll get a reply, but would you recommend using this lens for video? Like for example, maybe shooting an interview and your subject isn’t moving so there’s no need for auto focus? Or is this mainly just for photography?
One thing I’d point out is that the focus throw isn’t very long so manually focusing for video would be challenging as there is a bigger gap for missing focus
I have this lens for my a6700. While it's capable of producing great images, the fact that it's manual focus makes it unusable when shooting birds for example. Right now I'm thinking of selling this lens and buying the Viltrox 27mm F1.2, which is way better in every aspect.
What is its T-value at f/0.95? For reference, DxO Mark measured a 1.2L lens as having a T-value of 1.5 thus making it as fast as a 1.4G lens from another brand that also has a T-value of 1.5.
@@tiborbogi7457 The amount of light let in doesn't change. Low F stops on full frame and on crop sensor have the same amount of light let in, it's depth of field that changes when you convert to equivalent focal lengths. F1 at 35mm will have the depth of field of F1 on 35mm regardless of full frame or crop sensor, you just have to adjust to get the equivalent depth of 50mm if you're trying to recreate the look. It's not as big of a deal as people on CZcams make it out to be.
Having a large value difference likely means a lot of vignetting, but shouldn’t make a big difference in exposure. Unless you’re shooting a movie in 35mm film, you shouldn’t have to worry about t-stop values to match exposures.
That lens renders a very soft and low contrast image. I'm not sure what value such a lens brings to the pro photog. It'll be a novelty to everyone else, of course. I have a Noct-Nikkor that sees occasional use for portraiture, but even then it's not very practical, as the subject must sit absolutely still, given the ambient lighting.
@@zaks7 same, That's why I'm wondering why this Brightin Star one is getting all sorts of praise but as far as I can tell it is optically the exact same as the 7artisans
@@nathanielclifton1643 from what I can see it has slightly better optics and so somewhat sharper full open. Otherwise it’s practically a clone of the 7a.
@@nathanielclifton1643 what i can tell is that the TTA is really really REALY soft when shooting wide open and close to minimal focus distance up until f4. Otherwise its as good as you expect from a lens this price range.
@@dhlehrenlos Well, the APS-C is expensive to begin with. It is easy to fool people with fancy F-stops on crop systems. But the pictures are not going to be unbeatable by modern standards. Perhaps it's a fine lens for a crop. There's just nothing unbeatable about it.
Are you talking about for full-frame or APS-C? Because for APS-C I’d agree, but for full frame, 35mm is much too wide, a 50 or 85 is much better for portrait on a FF.
Does focus peaking work well with this camera? I would love to have something like this and I just bought Z50 that could use it, but regular manual focusing is out of the question for me thanks to my bad eyesight.
You can buy the EF 50 mm f/1.4. You’ll get the same angle of view and depth of field on your FF camera as with this APSC lens. But it’s not gonna be that sharp
Small aperture f number means stronger boke but that also means a wider open aperture. So the wider the lower the aperture number The stronger the boke
@@JACKnJESUS how so? the f stop doesn't change just cos you use a APS-C design...the f stop is the division of the aperture opening vs the focal length of said lens...
@@davepastern When talking about equivalence...we are talking about FF equivalence. The crop factor is applied to focal length (which you commented on accurately)...PLUS the aperture. It's not just focal length that is changed. ISO also changes...it's all three. ISO gets the crop factor squared...so for crop it is around 2.25. Meaning at FF iso 225 will be the equivalent of iso 100 on a crop camera. This is why smaller sensor cameras have the reputation of having more noise...it's all in the math.
@@JACKnJESUS ISO is just a measurement of amplification to the sensor signal, nothing more and nothing less...it doesn't change from camera to camera (if they adhere to ISO standards of course). What changes with APS-C is smaller sensels, meaning they have a smaller electron well. This is what leads to worse higher ISO performance, not the crop factor of the lens. Yes, the smaller imaging circle of the crop lens means less light hitting the sensor at any given f stop. Check out Fabian Fopp's video "Photography showdown: MFT and full format in real-world comparison".
@@davepastern Yes, it an amplification, which I did not bring up since it is irrelevant to equivalency. When trying to go...match to match...FF to crop (any crop) the marketing depts. all concentrate on focal length...because it can be spun as a positive. The rest is...left off...because most camera companies sell more than one format...so they remain mum about it...but that's the physics of it...that's the actual equation...across the board from medium Format down to Micro format. Focal length is multiplied by crop as is aperture...and Iso is the crop squared. From my experience...only the pros know this...hobbyists...mostly do not.
Full frame lenses don't always get listed from the start that they're full frame either. Also, there is a 50mm version for full frame. But, I personally prefer crop sensor so I can't tell you if the full frame version is as good
Adult (full fame) cameras genuinely have a shallower dof, using equivalent lenses of f/1.4 would give comparable results. A 50 mm f/1.4 has been the standard lens for many decades, is, of course, more expensive than this cheap Chinese one. Nowadays, a 1.2 gives even more toneh on FF, at premium prices.
@@ralfjansen9118 the amount of light let in is the appeal of this lens. It's more so made for low light than it's made for spectacular bokeh, it's just a bonus
@@FalloutUrMum That's the obvious elephant in the room. But this was important back in the film days when ISO 400 was the best you could get (and still had to compromise in grain), not today when you could crank up ISO to 5 digit numbers with usable results with modern cameras. The difference of just one stop (effective f/1.0 vs f/1.4) is no longer relevant in comparison to the gain of, for example, 5 stops (400 vs 12800 ISO). You are totally free now in your (dof) composition.
@@cameraz99 that's not how equivalency works. Smaller sensors are also worse in low light, hence why you apply the crop factor to the aperture when talking about equivalency with larger sensors.
I bought this lense and I habe the 7artisans too, and I have to say the 7 has better image quality wide open. Both less soft and less creamy/dreamy/artistic abortions it is not sharp compared to others too and it also has abortion, but not as much as the Star here, and especially not when things are supposed to be in Fokus. We'll, ok, the 7 costs more though.
And one pro and one con for the star. The Fokus is a bit harder compared to the 7. This makes it less likely to accidentally turn the focus ring or turn it to far when fine tuning the focus. Which makes it easier to use wide open. That's a pro. The con is the clicked aparture. You mostly can't get in between the numbers. Yes, on the 7 you have to eyeball them, which is not as easy, especially stopped down, but at least it has an indecation for f11 and didn't just remove it completely.
Can anyone here help me, I have Olympus omd m5 mii Just the body, any cheap recommendations for lenses? Travelling to indo soon would like have something small and compact but obviously shoots well
its not a 35mm f1 though, is it, it's a 50mm 1.4 because you can only use it on a crop-sensor. with busy / distracting cheap looking bokeh. nothing special.
wow too funny... i came here to type the same thing. i've been shooting non-stop since i got mine last summer. similar build-quality as well - all metal and glass, feels great with a nice 'click'. that lens is absolutely amazing.
This sounds quite beautiful but i would maybe prefer just a slightly less wide aperture and instead a more unique bokeh effect instead. So something special like the bokeh effect of the Helios 44-2 (or - another number) or something similar special would be great and I would give a little smaller aperture for that 😃
You 'gets' what you pay 'fer'. If you want to sell something to me, slow it down, and oh yea, tell us the name of the product. My friends, as someone experienced in this field, look elsewhere.
If you want nice subject seperation learn how to use flash light... a shallow depth of field is not what seperates the subject from the background there's a reason when Annie Leibovitz shoots at f8 the subject is nicely seperated from the background and your photos just look like someone smeared vaseline on it...
@@daedaluxe ohhh jesus please why are people who definitely never have published anything or ever done any paid work the first who think they need to talk about photography.... jesus your parents must be so disappointed in you... 100% you've never shot with actual light and get like 10 likes when you post something on your silly little instagram... and atleast 5 of them are your family and the rest are random bots looking for engagement
Not a special to have a f/0.95, that is common really. If it would be like a f/0.85, then we would be talking about something special. And shallow DOF is not ideal for subject separation. The background and foreground selection by choice of perspective and field of view is the key for a proper subject isolation. Shallow DOF comes with a severe compromise that makes photos look fad.
AND THE CROWD CHEERS AS THE PRICE INCREASES
Yeah that blows :/
Calm your tits. I just checked and it's still $190.
Wow... yeah, almost twice the price now. $358.
@@CY3ER am I crazy because I just looked it up and it still on Amazon for $200
@@remiremillard8419looks like the price has dropped. I checked their website when I originally posted. It's back down to the $190 price point.
Just had to stop by to compliment your Democracy Manifest shirt. May your meals always be succulent
Can’t beat a succulent, Chinese meal.
@@hugohugo990 I see you know your judo well.
GET YOUR HANDS OF MY PENIS!
GET YOUR HAND OFF MY APERTURE RING
I need a link for that asap pls
Brightin star is really good! I love the 28mm 2.8 on my m9
They're amazing quality for the price.
@@TomCaltonis this compatible with Canon Mark 4? 😊
BTW you can get full frame 50mm f/1.4, which is a larger aperture than this 0.95 APS-C lens, that are sharper, and have autofocus, for similar money used
Yep, if you have a full frame camera more options are open to you. APSC shooters have to resort to sub-1 apertures to get the DoF achievable with a full frame camera at f/1.2. These f/0.95 lenses only work on crop sensor cameras anyhow, so they’re basically irrelevant to full frame shooters.
Any recs?
@@OzExpeditionsWhat camera system are you using? The Canon EF 50/1.4 can be had on eBay for under $200, or if you’re willing to give up autofocus a Minolta Rokkor 50/1.4 goes for $80.
@@wjlafrance I have a Sony A7iv
@@OzExpeditions Nice, with a mirrorless you can adapt almost any DSLR / SLR lens without corrective optics. I’d look for a Minolta MD to Sony adapter and try out that Minolta lens. With focus peaking in camera manually focusing should be a breeze also.
I’ve had one the last year and LOVED it. Still my go-to for quick outings with my little ZV-E10
I have this lens. Only use it occasionally, but it produces good results wide open. Very solid build. A nice addition to my kit.
Toneh will now love this
I audibly exhaled from that joke. I'm not even sure if tony has ever mentioned camera conspiracy in the past lol
That's a lot of TONEH!
@@rephaelreyes8552what’s camera conspiracy?
@@rephaelreyes8552 but they commented on one of his videos
@@carrioncrow8191 it’s the CZcams channel that made up the term “Toneh” due to Tony’s obsession with the bokeh blur
You said the lens is sharp wide open while showing a washed out photo. Is this an undisclosed ad?
It's sharp for f/0.95 and I honestly thought the photo looked plenty sharp. Also, the fact that it's THAT good at f/0.95, it's really really sharp at f/2 and gets better until f/4. Then stays pretty solid until f/8 I'd say. This is as sharp at f/0.95 as most high end lenses are at f/2.8
Obviously it is
@@michall6376 it was sharp for what it is, even the leica 0.95 lens isn’t sharp wide open and cost 30x the cost of this lol
did we look at the same photo? i bought this lens 5 months back and it replaced my 750$ sigma.
And it's probably great for low light video, I have a sigma 1.4 and that's already pretty awesome for low light
It is, except for the manual focus.
I have the 16mm 1.4, 30mm 1.4 and this 35mm f0.95. It doesn't replace the auto focus on my sigma but is definitely better at creating a shallow depth of field
I love it, but has no internal stabilization. So make sure you have steady hands, a tripod, or a camera that has it's own ibis.
People complain about the manual focus, but I've pulled my own focus on a lot of projects. You just have to learn to do it
Good enough for instagram
I have one, I didn't think I'd like it as much as I do. It's the only prime I have and I basically take it out when it gets too dark for my other lenses while I'm out hiking. Then I'll sometimes just use it if I left it on from the last time.
i was once shooting around with my retro Minolta GM 80-200 in a very small village when i met a guy with a Fujifilm and this exact lens. Beautiful camera and lens!
I have this lens in m43 mount and it's amazing. Not something i use 24'7 but the bokeh and background separation is noticeably stronger than the 30mm 1.4 i usually keep on the camera.
M42? Or what is M43?
M43 is micro four thirds or MFT
You said you mounted it to a Fujifilm. Is it compatible? Or is an adaptor needed?
I have some objections to the images being shown and the narrative of the video. The "wide open" shot is black and white? Hiding chromatic aberrations? Most of the other (if not all) are not wide open not showing that "perfect" quality when open. I have seen a fair few cheaper 0.95 reviews that where honest in their photos and these are lenses that more than often need to be stopped down to f1.8 / f2 for acceptable quality with wife open being a "cool effect but not really all that good quality". Was this content sponsored?
I doubt I’ll get a reply, but would you recommend using this lens for video? Like for example, maybe shooting an interview and your subject isn’t moving so there’s no need for auto focus? Or is this mainly just for photography?
There's certainly nothing stopping you from using it for video - just make sure your focus pulling skills are on point.
One thing I’d point out is that the focus throw isn’t very long so manually focusing for video would be challenging as there is a bigger gap for missing focus
This might be good for maker channels, capturing some close up turning or milling of metal.
Why night example not included 🙁
Newb question, does focus peaking work with manual focus lenses?
Yes!
But a 0.95 manual is always gonna be quite hard to focus but managable.
I have this lens for my a6700. While it's capable of producing great images, the fact that it's manual focus makes it unusable when shooting birds for example. Right now I'm thinking of selling this lens and buying the Viltrox 27mm F1.2, which is way better in every aspect.
A 35mm for shooting birds? Are birds usually right next to you?? Lol
0.95 for birds?
27 for birds :o
a6700 for birds :o
Birds? :o
This will perform almost like a 56mm F1.4 lens on Fullframe Canon body
This is not a 1.6x crop lens, only canon uses those tiny sensors. This is a standard APS-C lens so it's equiv to a 52mm f/1.4
Offf, thats very busy background in those bokeh shots, 7artisans are general the best F0.95 lenses imo.
Any 0.95 lenses for fullframe that are in this price range?
The price is the best part
What is its T-value at f/0.95? For reference, DxO Mark measured a 1.2L lens as having a T-value of 1.5 thus making it as fast as a 1.4G lens from another brand that also has a T-value of 1.5.
Agree, 1.5 x 0.95 = 1.425 on FF not that impressive, but nice to have on APSC camera.
@@tiborbogi7457F stops do not change between sensor sizes when it comes to brightness of the image. Only depth of field
@@tiborbogi7457 The amount of light let in doesn't change. Low F stops on full frame and on crop sensor have the same amount of light let in, it's depth of field that changes when you convert to equivalent focal lengths. F1 at 35mm will have the depth of field of F1 on 35mm regardless of full frame or crop sensor, you just have to adjust to get the equivalent depth of 50mm if you're trying to recreate the look. It's not as big of a deal as people on CZcams make it out to be.
@@FalloutUrMum You are right. For me possibilities with depth of field are interesting. Shame, that is no canon version of these lens.
Having a large value difference likely means a lot of vignetting, but shouldn’t make a big difference in exposure. Unless you’re shooting a movie in 35mm film, you shouldn’t have to worry about t-stop values to match exposures.
Might be nice to point out that it's manual focus.
f0.95 but only mentioned at the end that it's for a crop sensor...
They have a 50mm one for full frame. But full frame is icky, crop sensor ftw.
That lens renders a very soft and low contrast image. I'm not sure what value such a lens brings to the pro photog. It'll be a novelty to everyone else, of course. I have a Noct-Nikkor that sees occasional use for portraiture, but even then it's not very practical, as the subject must sit absolutely still, given the ambient lighting.
No EF-S / EF mount. Makes me sad 😅
Does something like this exist for mft ?
Yes but besides the clicked aperture ring, how is it any different than the 7artisans 35 mm f 0.95?
I have that one and I love it.
@@zaks7 same, That's why I'm wondering why this Brightin Star one is getting all sorts of praise but as far as I can tell it is optically the exact same as the 7artisans
@@nathanielclifton1643 from what I can see it has slightly better optics and so somewhat sharper full open. Otherwise it’s practically a clone of the 7a.
@@nathanielclifton1643 what i can tell is that the TTA is really really REALY soft when shooting wide open and close to minimal focus distance up until f4. Otherwise its as good as you expect from a lens this price range.
@@helios007 That's interesting because I haven't noticed this problem with the 7artisans
What is the name of this lens?
literally says it in the first few seconds of the video
Love from India ❤
💖
So, this 35F0.95 crop lens is like 55F1.5 on Full Frame. There's nothing unbeatable about it.
52.5
@@gregorybeale 53.62
well it is unbeatable on for apsc cameras no? or am I understanding something wrong here?
@@dhlehrenlos Well, the APS-C is expensive to begin with. It is easy to fool people with fancy F-stops on crop systems. But the pictures are not going to be unbeatable by modern standards. Perhaps it's a fine lens for a crop. There's just nothing unbeatable about it.
Flaring, ghosting, purple fringing and lens curvature. You can't have a cheap lens with without flaws.
35 mm for portret photography. No. 85 mm to 110mm is a portretphotografy. This lens will blowup your subject.
Eummm ok but 85 to 110 will also strongly change someones face. If you dont want that you use 50mm, not 85 to 110.
Are you talking about for full-frame or APS-C? Because for APS-C I’d agree, but for full frame, 35mm is much too wide, a 50 or 85 is much better for portrait on a FF.
Please suggest me a cheap/inexpensive macro lens for canon ef mount
Can I use it on a xt-5? Where to buy? Ty
Mitakon 35mm 0.95mm is good as well.
Yes the Mitakon Speedmaster is awesome.
Full frame??
Are all 0.9 lenses apsc?
Nope, some are full frame. In fact I have a full frame one coming in for review very soon 👀
Surprisingly it doesn’t come in M mount :(
It's designed for APS-C not full frame
Very nice. I think I need one for my X-Pro 2.
total newbie here- Why would you spend more money on a wider f-stop if you can just edit the photo in photoshop and blur out the background?
Honestly not sure either, but I know that with a larger aperture opening, it allows in more light, making it better for dark photos
@bando3858 yep, more light better for low light conditions
Fake blur in post does not equate to real bokeh, subject separation, natural falloff, and increased light input.
@DrewMestel that's also true, it's hard to make a really good portrait with software instead of real one
Or you can generate the whole image with AI instead. Oooor… use a wider f-stop lens, it’s a matter of personal preference:)
Does focus peaking work well with this camera? I would love to have something like this and I just bought Z50 that could use it, but regular manual focusing is out of the question for me thanks to my bad eyesight.
Focus peaking works perfect with my brightinstar lens on my olympus m43 camera. I couldn't imagine using it without peaking. Would suck for sure.
I have this lens for a Canon M50. Focus peaking works great with this lens, but it all depends on the camera you put this lens on
Original 35 F1.4 mark I x ever
Liked it
I just wish someone would make cool lenses like this for the Canon EF mount I like my 50 megapixel Canon I don't want a mirrorless camera
You can buy the EF 50 mm f/1.4. You’ll get the same angle of view and depth of field on your FF camera as with this APSC lens. But it’s not gonna be that sharp
Isn't small aperture meant for stronger bokeh. Or is it the other way.
Small aperture f number means stronger boke but that also means a wider open aperture. So the wider the lower the aperture number The stronger the boke
what about ttartisans?
Where can I get this lens and what is its brand
Brightin star as you can see on the lens
Can't open your links!!
CURSE MY BEAUTIFUL 1950’s ANALOG CAMERA. CANT PUT NO LENSES ON THAT BEAUTY!!!
Which lens is?
And that question is exactly why you shouldn't buy it.
@@richardlansingis it satire or a real question😅😅
no Canon EF mount, shame on you Brightin Star
No Nikon f mount.
This lens has none of the qualities you need to create good images
and it's also APS-C...so it's like basically a 56mm lens on Canon APS-C...
and the f stop equivalent is more like f/1.4
@@JACKnJESUS how so? the f stop doesn't change just cos you use a APS-C design...the f stop is the division of the aperture opening vs the focal length of said lens...
@@davepastern When talking about equivalence...we are talking about FF equivalence. The crop factor is applied to focal length (which you commented on accurately)...PLUS the aperture. It's not just focal length that is changed. ISO also changes...it's all three. ISO gets the crop factor squared...so for crop it is around 2.25. Meaning at FF iso 225 will be the equivalent of iso 100 on a crop camera. This is why smaller sensor cameras have the reputation of having more noise...it's all in the math.
@@JACKnJESUS ISO is just a measurement of amplification to the sensor signal, nothing more and nothing less...it doesn't change from camera to camera (if they adhere to ISO standards of course). What changes with APS-C is smaller sensels, meaning they have a smaller electron well. This is what leads to worse higher ISO performance, not the crop factor of the lens. Yes, the smaller imaging circle of the crop lens means less light hitting the sensor at any given f stop.
Check out Fabian Fopp's video "Photography showdown: MFT and full format in real-world comparison".
@@davepastern Yes, it an amplification, which I did not bring up since it is irrelevant to equivalency.
When trying to go...match to match...FF to crop (any crop) the marketing depts. all concentrate on focal length...because it can be spun as a positive. The rest is...left off...because most camera companies sell more than one format...so they remain mum about it...but that's the physics of it...that's the actual equation...across the board from medium Format down to Micro format. Focal length is multiplied by crop as is aperture...and Iso is the crop squared.
From my experience...only the pros know this...hobbyists...mostly do not.
Id love to see it shooting the galaxy
Wow... So what if you put it on a speed booster? 👍🏼🎥🕊️😎 And was one of those pics near London Victoria? The red pillar box.
It's an APSC lens so you'd end up using only a tiny portion of your sensor.
“That’s what she said”😂😂
Wish you mentioned it wasn’t full frame at the beginning
Full frame lenses don't always get listed from the start that they're full frame either. Also, there is a 50mm version for full frame. But, I personally prefer crop sensor so I can't tell you if the full frame version is as good
Sure.
$400 for Canada
It's a APS-C 😢
Adult (full fame) cameras genuinely have a shallower dof, using equivalent lenses of f/1.4 would give comparable results.
A 50 mm f/1.4 has been the standard lens for many decades, is, of course, more expensive than this cheap Chinese one.
Nowadays, a 1.2 gives even more toneh on FF, at premium prices.
@@ralfjansen9118 thanks for your comment 👍🏻
@@ralfjansen9118 the amount of light let in is the appeal of this lens. It's more so made for low light than it's made for spectacular bokeh, it's just a bonus
@@FalloutUrMum That's the obvious elephant in the room.
But this was important back in the film days when ISO 400 was the best you could get (and still had to compromise in grain), not today when you could crank up ISO to 5 digit numbers with usable results with modern cameras.
The difference of just one stop (effective f/1.0 vs f/1.4) is no longer relevant in comparison to the gain of, for example, 5 stops (400 vs 12800 ISO).
You are totally free now in your (dof) composition.
Yeaaaah, but its for apsc. Which brings it closer to like an f1.6 on full frame. Sooo, its not really that impressive, it all depends on context
No not really, its more like f1.4
Closer to f/1.4-1.5. Still not anything super special, but good for the price if you don't need autofocus.
@harraldschmitt9113 -- Only as far as depth of field is concerned. It's light-gathering ability remains the same no matter what format.
That's what I wanted to point out. Thank you. So much wrong information these days.
@@cameraz99 that's not how equivalency works. Smaller sensors are also worse in low light, hence why you apply the crop factor to the aperture when talking about equivalency with larger sensors.
Isn't this also a fixed-focus lens?
No, you can pull the focus, it's just manual focus
this lens is bumped to the price of a playstation 5 in my country
I bought this lense and I habe the 7artisans too, and I have to say the 7 has better image quality wide open. Both less soft and less creamy/dreamy/artistic abortions it is not sharp compared to others too and it also has abortion, but not as much as the Star here, and especially not when things are supposed to be in Fokus.
We'll, ok, the 7 costs more though.
And one pro and one con for the star.
The Fokus is a bit harder compared to the 7. This makes it less likely to accidentally turn the focus ring or turn it to far when fine tuning the focus. Which makes it easier to use wide open. That's a pro.
The con is the clicked aparture. You mostly can't get in between the numbers. Yes, on the 7 you have to eyeball them, which is not as easy, especially stopped down, but at least it has an indecation for f11 and didn't just remove it completely.
Bought it, it sucks wide open. Only centersharp else very blurred. Misleading promotion....
Thank you. I missed that
Can anyone here help me,
I have Olympus omd m5 mii
Just the body, any cheap recommendations for lenses?
Travelling to indo soon would like have something small and compact but obviously shoots well
Panasonic 25mm 1.7 is like $150usd new. Panasonic 14mm f2.5 is $110 new on ebay. Sigma 30mm 1.4 is around $200 used.
Nice... It's an APSC lens, but they don't make one for Canon EF-S though. Oh well.
Third party lenses are blocked by Canon from being on s mount. Canon made the new mount to scam you so you pay too much for their proprietary lenses.
its not a 35mm f1 though, is it, it's a 50mm 1.4 because you can only use it on a crop-sensor. with busy / distracting cheap looking bokeh. nothing special.
The 50mm 0.95 tt-artisan lens is cheaper than this and performs just as well too.
wow too funny... i came here to type the same thing. i've been shooting non-stop since i got mine last summer. similar build-quality as well - all metal and glass, feels great with a nice 'click'. that lens is absolutely amazing.
How is the bokeh when shooting video?
not sure where you're getting this lens for USD $190...
It's $199 at Amazon USA
@@bluelake07 not much good to me...but thanks.
Good for Fiji xt1?
I have it on my X-T2 and I love it!
Sharp at F8 😂😂😂
Unbeatable? Was dissapointed due to his promises of sharpness. Was absolutly not impressed with that lense.
Мусор же, он на 1.4 в лучшем случае даст вменяемую картинку.
Saying the f0.95 doesn’t mean anything unless you have the brand
Brightin Star. He says it right at the beginning of the video.
So informative!
This sounds quite beautiful but i would maybe prefer just a slightly less wide aperture and instead a more unique bokeh effect instead. So something special like the bokeh effect of the Helios 44-2 (or - another number) or something similar special would be great and I would give a little smaller aperture for that 😃
My phone got that aperture setting but idk how to utilise it
APS-C!
Completely useless for Nikon F or Sony A mount cameras.
The bokeh is quite disturbing, to the point “I see it and I don’t like it”.
Even thou is a nikon lens, can it be mounted to a canon eos ?
You 'gets' what you pay 'fer'. If you want to sell something to me, slow it down, and oh yea, tell us the name of the product. My friends, as someone experienced in this field, look elsewhere.
🎉
Those finger nails man. Come on lol. Take some pride in them
I painted the studio floor that day, give me a break man. FFS 🤣
@@TomCalton I could see the gray floor paint too 😂 😂 😂
If you want nice subject seperation learn how to use flash light... a shallow depth of field is not what seperates the subject from the background there's a reason when Annie Leibovitz shoots at f8 the subject is nicely seperated from the background and your photos just look like someone smeared vaseline on it...
lol, tell me you know nothing about photography without telling me
@@daedaluxe ohhh jesus please why are people who definitely never have published anything or ever done any paid work the first who think they need to talk about photography.... jesus your parents must be so disappointed in you... 100% you've never shot with actual light and get like 10 likes when you post something on your silly little instagram... and atleast 5 of them are your family and the rest are random bots looking for engagement
OK, you think you have a good depth of field seperating your subject, destroying your background to get it blurred? Go to school please.
Chinese noctilux ..
Sorry but f0.95 aps-c. Is not f0.95 at all. It's just a lie and a commercial strategy to forget to mention it directly. Not honest at all...
This is literally how aps-c lenses are always marketed. They always give the full frame equivalent.
@@malman1080 Ok, so like the fake cheese on industrial pizzas' called cheese. But it's not... And not evenly mentionned.
@L3d0y1 Except F stops are ratios. Doesn't matter if it's for APS-C or for Full frame...
@@GWT1m0Except that you really don't want your sensor to be reduced to aps-c format.
@@L3d0y1 if it’s that big of a deal get a full frame sensor and forget about crop factor lol
Not a special to have a f/0.95, that is common really. If it would be like a f/0.85, then we would be talking about something special. And shallow DOF is not ideal for subject separation. The background and foreground selection by choice of perspective and field of view is the key for a proper subject isolation.
Shallow DOF comes with a severe compromise that makes photos look fad.
have you tried washing your hands?)))))
Send to me this lens for Nikon fz
apsc...
Not enough toneh.
Another rebranded speedmaster 🤦🏻♂️