OBS Ford Brakes: How to Change Rear Brakes on a 1980-1996 F250 or F350 with 10.25 Rear Axle
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- This time at the Quick Speed Shop I need to stop and my 1995 Ford F250 won't stop...very good. It's time to change the rear brakes. I did the front brakes in a separate video. This time I'm changing the rear shoes and hardware. This video covers removing the old shoes, installing new shoes and hardware, and finally adjusting the brakes. This should apply to all the Ford F250 and F350 trucks with modern Sterling style 10.25 inch rear.
(I put the lower spring in the wrong hole, FYI. It goes in the other hole close to the one I used)
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#obs #f250 #brakes
Wow your drums came off so easy. You did not even have to wale on it with a sledge hammer until the whole neighbourhood is annoyed.
They were new drums I had installed previously.
@@QuickSpeedShop Cool, howdya get the old ones off chief?
@@randywright2665 damn!! Might have to try that.
Roll your adjuster in reverse w two screwdrivers from the back to release the shoes, then spray penetrant around the hub through the stud holes w a straw and let it soak.
Then: Beat senseless, heat, beat.
I had to grind mine off…
I always buy new wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware kits when I do drum brakes for my trucks. I've learned my lesson on using old brake parts.
Little tip I like to do. Before starting, with clean hands, put masking tape over brake shoe. After assembly, remove tape. This prevents dirty hands from contaminating the brake surface.
That's a good tip
18:30 right side of long skinny spring needs to go up to next hole. It is sitting too low and dragging on star adjuster.
Thanks! I had a drum rusted to the shoes on my F250. The star wheel was stripped, so I couldn't loosen the shoes. The shoe retaining pins are hard, so I had to buy a carbide bit to drill them out from the back. I wound up using expansion pipe clamps against the frame to get the drum off far enough to reach in with a hacksaw blade and cut the adjuster.
I appreciate the clue about the nut in the back to get the big pin at the top out! The screwdriver mod is great to know too! You had me stumped until you went back and put the spring in the bottom!
When you put new shoes on, the pistons get pushed back farther into the cylinder. If water collected in the low point of the brake system, it can rust the bottom of the cylinder. When the pistons get pushed in over the rusted spot, they can leak. It's a good idea to check the cylinders. They're easy to hone if there's rust. The hone has three spring-loaded stones, and fits in a drill.
i took a old #3 phillips screw driver and cut off the tip took cutoff wheel cut a slot in it and then heated the end and bent to 90 degrees and takes those side springs off so easy
Been awhile since I done any brake work on them big drums. I remember maching the big old GM ones that were hub and drum together. Thanks for the educational video. Sorry I let you put it together incorrectly. LOL Thanks for the video :)
My 1977 F250 is like that where you need to pull axles to remove drums. Can't wait to do brakes on that!
Thanks for sharing this, we always need a review of the process of these truck breaks.
It was a lot of work!
Well, it turns out I follow directions really well. So, you can know that you're not alone in reassembling it wrong. 😂 Thanks for the instructions!
Lol nice
Nice video, first time ever doing brakes with a drum setup on a “smaller” vehicle compared to big rigs, had no idea what I was to do after I had the drum off. Good job on going step by step, and the home made screw driver tool really helped me out 👍
👍
I appreciate the video, actually bought a truck yesterday that needs brakes
Nice 👍
Thats a little easier gettin the drum off than my 74 dodge d200. For that u have to remove the axel nut & the wheel hub is attached to the drum via the pressed thru wheel studs
Bin there dun that on my 1990 ford F-250 4x4 was my daily druver
Hooking that red spring to the retainer "nail like" deserve a single video class. Id guess more people keeps asking how to install that little red spring.
Thanks it enormously for the video also big issues with the red spring. But I commend you on only spending 20 minutes on that. I spent more like 2 hours on it and gave up but I will try your little trick tomorrow and let you know I went. Thank you.
perfect demo thank you
Thanks a bunch for the video. I have a Ford van with the 3" brakes and have never had to deal with those clothes pin on steroids type hold downs.
You are the only help I could find on these big brakes so thanks again for sharing.
👍
Thanks
New shoes always feel good and in this case will keep you safe. Nice work.
Brakes are overrated. Safety 3rd!
FYI - My 1994 F250 rear passenger brake line was a 3/16 and 1/4 at the wheel. I got a 1/4,1/4 and found the need for 3/16, well S***T.
Dorman 785-434d 1/4 x 3/16 brake line adapter from O'Reilly's and $7 saved me.
Yes for some reason Ford used non matching fittings for some reason on rearends, I don't know why.
Thanks, glad I watched this!
Man great video I have a 1990 ford econoline e350 camper with the dually tire setup and the 3.5 inch pads ... having trouble getting the shoes and springs all.together ... it's def a pain
It's a struggle alright!
You know someone knows how to really work when they are hammering with their vice grips
👍
Those drums don't look too bad to do. My cylinders are leaking on mine.
I believe the bottom spring should be straight across not down at an angle towards the adjuster. Other than that very informative video
Yes, I know. I addressed it in the video description and in comments multiple times. Thousands of miles after this video was made I took the drums off to change the e-brake cables and everything was still there and functioning even with the spring in the wrong hole.
It's been a while since I did one of these and I might be mistaken. But does the adjuster spring need to move up one hole on the spring end.i didn't think it was suppose to be that close to the adjuster.
You might be right. Both springs were broke when I took it apart. The spring had decent tension on it so I think it will be okay.
You are correct I was looking at that needs to go up a hole.
Mines have just recently lost pressure. And my break light came on, but I was just too broke to repair it on time.
Made my owne tool for hold down springs from screw driver
Never get those springs on without some kind of tool.
lower long skinny spring is in he wrong spot on the right it should attach where theres two holes
Addressed in description and many times in comments. Thank you
anybody had issues with the emergency brake after doing brakes. I did mine last year and they will not release all the way. after adjusting a few thousand times and replacing everything I just gave up and leave it in gear when I park. thanks for the video!
Are your e-brake cables rusted? Bad cables will not release all the way.
@@QuickSpeedShop all new stuff from the equalizer on back and going forward to the e brake pedal is emaculate. It worked before just fine. I will get to it some time... taking off all those lug nuts get exhausting sometimes. Thanks for the reply.
Great video! Had a question, doing my drums as well. At about 15:10 in the video you aren't able to get your adjuster to engage with the star wheel. How did you end up getting it to engage/click?
I had the cable and spring hooked up wrong. I moved the spring and it pulled the clip to the wheel.
Love the OBS videos cause I have a 95 F150. Wow those linings were totally gone!
Was the left side just as bad? I did my rear brakes at 100k, still plenty of meat on
them but changed them out anyway. My brake kit included all parts! Its been years
since doing drum brakes, so I took several pics and laid everything out during dis-
assembly. Reused the drums as there was literally no ridge. I question just how well
the self adjusters work after seeing how much lining was left on the original shoes?
The left had a little less wear. Adjuster cable broke on rr might have has something to do with it.
@@QuickSpeedShop Haha, I was referring to my trucks brakes being
worn so little after 100k. Makes me think the self adjusters were not
working and I was getting very little to 0 braking from the rear.
With how easy it is to take the hub off, it's worth while to pull that off when doing this job. Give u a chance to replace your axle seal while your at it.
Didn't need axle seals.
Helpful thank you
Hate to tell you the adjuster cable is not hooked up properly the spring needs to be hooked on not the end of the cable
Agree, that self adjuster was not installed properly. The hook on the end of that metal tab, hooks onto the self adjuster arm. Yikes
@@Robertschannel-1 Unfortunately without tension that could come off and cause all kinds of havoc 😆
I swear that lower spring is in the wrong holes. Should run higher up behind adjustment cable clip ?¿?
Yes, I screwed up. Addressed in video description and comments at least a dozen times.
The bottom spring connecting the shoes is in the wrong holes!
Yes, thank you. It's been addressed in the description and comments about 50 times.
Sir,
You put the lower spring in the wrong location. Refer to the ford service manual. Tyvm
Read the description of the video and comments. That's been pointed out and I referenced it.
Anyone doing this the drum stuck on u gotta reach in there and push on a keeper with a bent screwdriver while turning the gear to get em to loosen. Not good at explaining but the gear will only push out on breaks unless u do that
when putting the drum back on the truck and adjusting the pads to finish the job, should I have the parking brake engaged??
No
@@QuickSpeedShoptruck should be in neutral?
If it's in N then it's easier to spin the drums to check for drag
You sure got plenty of use on those shoes, how many miles on that truck?
209k
@@QuickSpeedShop well that explains everything about those shoes
They make special Grease for brake jobs that's what should be used
Yeah I know, but didn't have any.
i am trying to get the drums off of a 94. what way does the star wheel turn to unloosen please?; no video seems to explain this; thanks.
It spins opposite to the adjuster tab. If you stick a screw driver in the slot and can turn the wheel without moving the adjuster tab then that is expanding the shoes. Spin it the other way while holding the tab up to pull in the shoes.
@@QuickSpeedShop thank you very much; i got it off!
Hey there! My 95 is very due for this service. Do you have a parts list for everything needed to do this? I’ve got some serious grinding.
Don't have a parts list. Bought everything off RockAuto. You'll just need to know if you have 12×3 or 12×3.5 wide shoes/drums.
Did you put your red spring in the wrong spot on the bottom
Is this the same for the e-350??
Yes, it should be as long as it has the Sterling 10.25 rear.
does any one know what the tool is called to put springs on
It's part of a drum brake kit. Honestly I just made a kit with a buncha old screwdrivers and a set of picks from harbor freight, but you can get a kit from most any auto parts store.
Snap on had a special tool to remove the C clip ... highly recommend ... 😂😂
That bottom red spring is in the wrong spot 😂😂 why would you do something like this and not even research to make sure your doing it right so if 10 people followed your vedio and breaks stop work because you gave them wrong info acting like something your not I like you did it on your own but come on you have to have some responsibility how did those work ??? With that bottom red spring in the wrong spot just wondering 🤔
I know I screwed up, I'm not an expert on everything. Guess what? The spring still holds the shoes together so the adjuster is retained. Thousands of miles after this video was made, I changed a rusted E-brake cable on that side. Spoiler alert, the brakes were all still there and wearing evenly, even with the spring in the wrong hole. Feel free to make your own video on the subject showing everyone the correct way to do it if you think this sucks so bad. And its BRAKES, not breaks. Maybe you should learn to spell it before calling me an idiot.
It's still wrong. The lower spring is in the wrong hole on the lead shoe. Next hole up. This is all wrong. The shoes should be built for install. Everything is labeled. The other drum had to come off anyway. It should have been easy to take a look, and he still did it wrong.
Read the description. I screwed up the one spring, which I mentioned in the description. What do you mean "everything is labeled?". When you buy shoes and hardware, it's not labeled. And guess what? Even with the lower spring one hole off the brakes still worked fine, even after several thousand miles when I opened them up to replace the e-brake cable.
Bottom spring in the wrong hole
I realized and fixed it.
you connected the brake adjuster on the wrong way it hooks on the spring not the metal part
You made several mistakes. 1st you didn't properly use brake cleaner and clean all the parts and backer plate.2nd you didn't put anti Seize on the contact points where the shoes touch the backer plate or the Self adjuster threads. 3. You installed the self adjuster star wheel stopper bracket incorrectly. 4. You don't use Vise grips as a hammer. I know now why the springs fell out when you removed the Drum.
Mr dirty hands wouldn't do my brake work for me fellow.
In the video I addressed the star wheel adjuster and fixed it. As far as everything else, the brakes have been working fine for a year and thousands of miles now. Also, any tool can also be used as a hanmer...
Good Effort But The Hard Part Of The Springs Is Left Out. Need To Search Somewhere Else To See It Done. Not really Helpfull
Sorry. It was a struggle to get the hard springs on and I was in front of the camera the whole time trying to get them on.
@ Lee Bolton Neither is your useless comment. Why don't you post where the close up of the hold downs springs are instead of complaining. He gave you a good idea and good pictures of those hold downs.
No good deed goes unpunished.
You edited out the hardest part which is the retaining springs. Not very helpful..
Even if I had filmed it wouldn't have helped as I didn't have the right tools to do it in a helpful manner.
Blurry video can't see shit
It's filmed in 1080 HD. Problem is on your end.
@@QuickSpeedShop 1080 hd is the cheapest resolution that makes sense
Yeah, okay, whatever, Steven Spielberg.
This guy needs to take the video down. He's helping no one.
Go make your own video then...