Valve Clearance Check pt1 - Suzuki GSF1250 Bandit SA L0 2010
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- čas přidán 20. 10. 2016
- Thanks to purple planet music for kindly allowing me the use of their intro music. (www.purple-planet.com)
You can find other useful info on my google+ page which I update as and when I can - plus.google.com/1119287081591...
or simply search for Mark Horton in your G+ a/c.
Hope you enjoy... : )
This is the 1st of 2 vids showing the Valve Clearance Check on the Bandit... I'll edit and upload the 2nd vid shortly which follows the re-build procedure. Sorry I can't show the stages of Camshaft removal and shim change as I didn't need to do it this time. As always if you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask and I'll gladly help if I can. Ride Safe - Regards Mark
You Lucky man. Previous owner did not want to pay for valve clearance so when I checked 8 shims needed to be changed.ie bit of gas guzzler. Suzi easier than Honda. Great vid.
Thanks for this, I’m looking at doing valve clearances on my 07 650. Just glad I’ll never have to worry about it with my Harley
All the best my friend.... hope your clearances are all in spec and you have peace of mind knowing you checked them (and if need be made the necessary adjustments) rather than not knowing and doing further damage through ignoring the schedule. Kind regards.
To save buying a new gasket for right hand engine cover, turn engine using rear wheel while in gear. cam cut outs position as shown, pretty obvious when your in correct position as lobe of cam is furthest away from the shim bucket....also wouldnt advise splitting feeler gauges, easier to fish out the chain tunnel should any accidents occur if they are all together. All in all a good easy to follow video, many thanks.
Very informative and pleasant video :)
C.Walker... the large hose you refer to coming off the Water Pump - next to the bottom of the exhaust headers is the one you will need to undo and empty the system into a container placed beneath it (It's the lowest point in the system).
When you remove the radiator filler cap (Located above the valve cover and underneath the petrol tank.) it will help the coolant flow quite freely. Re-fit the bottom hose and clip and begin refilling the system via the filler neck - pouring the coolant in slowly so as to minimise the amount of air entering the system. Rock the machine from side to side and squeeze the various coolant hoses to burp any trapped air. Loosen the bleed screw to purge any trapped air within the pump, impeller etc. - The screw is located on the water pump itself and as you crack it open you should purge it until coolant flows freely then tighten. Top up the system and the reservoir/expansion tank to the F level line and fit the res/exp. tank cap. With the rad cap off start the engine and allow to idle for 2-3 mins, rev the engine up to approx 4000 - 5000 rpm and I wait until the top radiator hose on the rhs becomes warm (Indicating the coolant has reached approx 82'C and the thermostat has opened) Turn off the engine and any air trapped in the system should bleed out through the filler neck thereafter when the bike is in use. Re-fit the rad cap and Check all connections/joints for leaks then take her for a run bringing everything up to normal operating temperature. I check the expansion tank daily for a few days thereafter and top up if necessary but generally you should be good to go. Hope that helps
I almost did this to my Bandit when I had it open to solve a popping issue and change the plugs. I asked the local Suzuki dealership if I should do it and they laughed. Even tho I think the service manual recommends it at 15K (my 09 is at 16K now) they said they'd never seen one out of spec when opened for other reasons, and unless I'm having problems I shouldn't worry about it. I was going to tackle it since it's easier to do the job with the PAIR system removed, as my bike's has been. After a slip on can, I was having popping issues on decel that I just didn't like, so me and a buddy yanked it out one Sat. Popping cured and aside from an ever so slightly stronger smell from the exhaust I love it. My state doesn't have vehicle inspections and many states that do don't check bikes, so I was able to get away with it. But at any rate, I loved watching the video and it's your bike, so you do it how YOU want to do it. It's nice to see someone else dealing with the same challenges! KTSSU
my bandit is now 66000km and its in 9th year..never adjusted the tappets before !!. there are problems creeping...1) valve cam cover seal looks gone and the 2 ) sump cover sealing also leaking oil...
Hopefully nothing too serious. These bikes get you spoiled with their dependability, huh? Lol.
Great video, 1 step that should be checked prior to checking valves. Check that the cam covers are torqued down to manufactures specifications. Otherwise may give slightly inaccurate measurements. Other than that job well done.
Interesting video, thanks. Not a job I've done yet. I've spoken with dealers about the job and a couple have told me openly that they don't bother doing it during the service unless they suspect a problem. Not sure if that suggests dodgy dealers or that the bikes I've looked at whilst asking (Fireblade for one) don't really get problems. One to tackle eventually no doubt.
Hi Richard, To be fair I was following the service schedule and checking the Valve clearances as per the recommended interval purely because I wanted to know how the clearances were doing. Checking is a whole lot less involved than adjusting which does entail camshafts removal to gain access to the shims and of course re-alignment thereafter. I was rather hoping that this was going to be the case so I could have progressed the video further to help others but in this instance I didn't need any further action. I pondered about uploading the footage I'd taken and felt at least it may help others to decide whether or not it was a task they would feel comfortable in doing. You tube is an amazing place to meet new friends as I have discovered and of course share information on any subject... I use it quite a lot and felt I just wanted to give something back.
Mark Horton I am all for following the manufacturer recommendations and really enjoyed the video. If anything, it's worrying that dealers don't follow those recommendations, especially as most customers would probably expect that they did.
hey man!
thank you for your video.
please tell me your shims size that you putted in for ex and in valves.
thanks
slightly confused about the coolant drain portion...Is there a drain spigot, or do you have undo the large hose underneath by the exhaust? Is the "bleed screw" just to let air flow?
Dear Mark, totally inspired by your video. May I ask what is the 2 additional red wires running please ?
Shamalan On-Time... Thank you for your kind words. The additional Red Wires you refer to are Positive supply feeds to some accessories I had fitted to the Bike. I upgraded the stock horn to a pair of dual tone horns that were far more superior than the original and I also had a pair of heated grips and a USB charger for my mobile phone (Which I used as a Sat Nav in a waterproof case mounted on the handlebars). They were all fed power from a switched live relay under my seat to keep the connections watertight....Hope that helps.
Neatly done Mark !!! I myself have 2 relays ( separately fused ) at the tool kit area. 1 for the twin horn upgrade and the other for an Oxford twin USB charger, looped to a Digital Volt Meter. The relays fit perfectly at the tool storage compartment area and certainly give me the confidence that the original wires are not overloaded beyond intentions of the engineers nor will they arc or be a potential fire hazard. Cheers !!!
You sound like a carbon copy of myself my friend... it's good to care and put the effort in when doing a proper job. I see some efforts on you tube and I shudder to imagine the heartbreak of their beloved machines going up in smoke through poor planning and consideration to wire gauge, fuses and general overloading or potential short circuiting when adding aftermarket extras.
Great helpful video, il have to do this one day on mine, what was the mileage you done this at so i can get an idea of when mine will need doing?
Cheers
WAGWAN CITY... Hi glad the vid may help people like you looking to embark on the task of checking. The workshop manual calls for a check at 14,500 miles or 24000km. There is lots of info regarding changing the shims to bring the valve clearances back into spec available on youtube. The principles are pretty straightforward however make sure you have a decent workshop manual and a good toolkit, including torque wrenches etc. Cheers Mark
Mark Horton ah right, mines at nearlly 24000 miles, at the end of the year i may do a major service whiles it winter
Do you know if they've been checked previously? How long have you had the bike miles etc. Oil & filter changes are key to looking after your engine. I have already put up a video showing the essential routine service like oil filters and plugs etc if it helps. May I also add the valve clearances are generally pretty good on these engines depending on how you ride and use them overall of course. I don't abuse mine and at nearly 17k she sounds and runs beautifully. The cost to check the clearances is minimal really... rising a bit more for changing any shims. You will save lots by doing it yourself and of course the peace of mind knowing you've seen and recorded the measurements (even after change of shims) for future reference. Good luck and take your time : )
Mark Horton my neighbour had owned the bike for about 4 years and i dont think theyve been done and theres no receipt to say so either, over the last 4 years or so its done around 2000 miles a year, its had a coolant change, engine and filter change.
It's peace of mind to check and know the clearances certainly at 15k intervals. Approx cost for DIY is not huge and as I have said before, I believe worthwhile. There are some people will argue that you can ignore and leave for several miles more than the recommended interval. That's down to the individual in the end... I know when i come to sell my bike on I can show evidence receipts, data recorded and video footage photos etc. that it was carried out and as i said worthwhile. I wouldn't purchase a bike that has been neglected and not maintained at the intervals required. It's a big enough investment buying a bike in the 1st place without bringing on financial headaches for yourself at a later date. On the topic of Valve Clearances you would notice a strong tap tap tapping noise coming from the valve cover area when the engine is running if any of the valve clearances are excessive... This in the long run left unrectified will wear your camshaft lobes unnecessarily. On the other hand if they were too tight then you would see poor engine performance caused by lack of compression and the potential for damaging valve seats and valves which throws up other costs and factors to consider. I enjoy looking after my Suzuki Bandit and the pleasure it gives me... I also recognize not everybody wants that responsibility and that's what the dealers are for. Good luck my friend if you decide to tackle it yourself... research, obtain the facts and ensure you have the right tools knowledge and equipment to complete the task. Take your time and work cleanly and methodically. Make notes/take photos as you go if it helps..... Cheers Mark
Great video
how many miles have your bike done?
Just passed 18000 miles now and enjoying every time I go out on her....
my 2006-1200 air cooled bandit is approaching 65000km...havent adjusted these yet, not really noisy so i didnt, it should be slightly easier cos theres no radiator hose to play with, i also thought of blocking off the PAIR system completely, to get rid of that ''sputterring'' whenever you open or close the throttle
I wont have the courage to open her up like this...
HELLO PROMPT how many KM TO REGULATE THE VALVE?
Hi... 14500 miles or 24000 Km. Hope that helps. Regards Mark
you have the European version of the bike?
Yes I do...
What is the maximum speed of your motorcycle
I don't know because I've never pushed it to the limit... the Bandit is a superb mid range power machine intended for enjoyable everyday use. If top speed excites you my friend may I suggest you look at a Kawasaki zzr1400 or indeed a BMW s1000rr. You will get your top end kicks there....
if you're in the fast group in track day and you cane your 12fiddy then check your valves before 30thou.... otherwise I wouldn't bother...good and informative video though.
Who would want to push a bike like the bandit on track day unless you've made some serious mods - it was never built for that... if you're in that sort of league get a race machine like everyone else. R1, S1000RR etc. and then enjoy the track. Might I add you gain nowt from revving the Bo**ocks out of these brilliant bikes - the power delivery is much lower down and suited to the road where the majority of owners enjoy them. If you're racing the Cr*p out of them on a track then you should already know about routine maintenance sir... this video is not aimed at people like yourself and others who clearly know what to do - it's there to help those that want to tackle their own routine maintenance and show them that it's not rocket science. There are some dealers that will have you shi**ng your pants over such a project and stinging your wallet too - although I do respect the fact that there are people happy to entrust their local dealer which is also absolutely fine. There are people that want to explore the pleasure of looking after their own machines - especially when they are long since out of warranty - and why not? I don't get ripped off and I know my bike really well because I take care of my own machine and derive an immense pleasure from doing so, I also like to help other people where I can. It's just a shame I didn't need to change the shims this time 'cos that would have been helpful to a lot of people... but then again there is a lot of info posted on youtube on the general theme that will help the inexperienced gain confidence to tackle such projects.
Ride safe My friend : )
I was just making a point....if you use the bike for track days and ride fast it would be worth checking the valves...but if your just a average road rider I wouldn't bother checking them valves till 30thou...your just wasting your time and money.
Fair point my friend... still worth checking at the recommended intervals to be safe. That way you can nip any necessary adjustment in the bud before it becomes a more expensive headache. Take care. Regards Mark
I have a 2011 with 30k on it still no need to do this. As N stated my dealer has also said they have never seen one out of spec. When you hear the valves rattling it's time to adjust. They don't get tighter only loose as they wear. Save time and effort, don't witty about it.
Your bike, your money.... your call. So valve clearances NEVER get smaller only bigger..... hmmm. Just for info of course check out this snippet and decide for yourself www.vstrom.info/Smf/index.php?topic=7332.0 .....Different engine but principles are the same.