This video helped a lot in knowing which component was the likely culprit for a suddenly non-functioning dishwasher. In mine, the filter was pretty clean, but somehow the metal mesh in the filter had become mangled. Just a couple of notes from my experience of taking the unit apart. If you tip the washer on its left side, you can easily get to the two screws with the Allen key without having to remove the hose. Also, for the motor segment that rests in the metal housing, there is a rubber gasket that buffers the mount in place. If you pull the gasket away from the metal, it makes separating the two halves much easier. Now the waiting game for my part to arrive. It blows me away how expensive that filter is. Looks like a $5 piece of plastic with a metal filter inside, but costs $125 CDN. Thanks again for the help; I wouldn’t have known where to start.
Paid 160.00 for diagnostic appliance tech. Was told pump working but probably needed wash pump. I had F9 E1 error codes but pump was working. Thank goodness I found a couple of CZcams videos from people who had the same issue. This video was the easiest removal and I was able to follow without difficulties. My filter looked just like his! Yuk! DW working great now! Saved $500 for new wash pump or $500 to $1000 for a new repair! Thank you, thank you!!
Thank you so much - you saved me a lot of trouble. I had exactly the same level of blockage in my pump housing. I was about to blow $$$ on parts I didn't need, but luckily came across your video first - our dishwasher is now working again, with no parts required. Now, in our case it was NOT paper from jar labels. We are careful not to put any kind of paper in the dishwasher, not only because of the general potential for clogs from it not breaking down, but also because we are on septic, and as such are hypersensitive to what goes down the drain. I dug the same amount of stuff out of my pump that you did, and it was like kleenex or toilet paper soaked in water and allowed to dissolve. It was just packed in there. After I got it all out, I left it to dry on a rag on my workbench, and once it did, it's obvious that it's some kind of paper product, but from where, given that we don't put any paper into our dishwasher? Also, we'd noticed lots of what looked like water-soaked kleenex in the bottom of the dishwasher, so soft and jelly-like you can't pick it up. Well, I have a theory as to what this stuff is - we'd been using those dishwasher pods, which if you crumble up are just powdered detergent, and what I think is that in their manufacturing process something has to hold the detergent powder together until they can encase it in that clear membrane that is on the outside, and I think that something is a very fine paper pulp. Probably in most dishwashers it's not a problem - it just exits during the drain cycle - but these particular dishwashers have that *very* fine mesh screen drum in the pump (what a stupid design) and the pulp, soft and fine as it is, can't be purged. So it just collects in the bottom of the pump housing until it reaches critical mass. We've switched to the Finish brand of pods, which are similar BUT somehow the powder inside remains as powder, i.e. the pods are soft and pliable instead of being rock-hard. So they would not need anything to bind the powder into a "pill" before encasing them in the clear membrane. That said, Finish does make several varieties of pods, and one of them is "hard", so watch out. The "soft" ones we use are called Finish Power. Time will tell if they're helping or not.
This video helped me a lot. What I did different: I placed the dishwasher on its left side rather than the right side, and then I was simply able to lift up the insulation to get at the back screw. What was different on mine: the screws were torx rather than allen. Mine was plugged up with dog fur. Also the food grinder part on mine had self destructed, so I didn't have a choice but to replace it. I was able to clean out the impeller with a pick and needle nose pliers. When the part comes in your instructions are clear about re-assembly. Thanks!
Paul Hawkinson has done a great job of describing the problem. He goes farther explaining why it's not working and shows the problem, & walks through the repair speaking about it. Thank you. Most CZcams machine repair videos are really "replace this part" videos that explain parts replacement. Good. But that's done without showing viewers any diagnostic process that leads to what & why something needs attention. The Aerospace Engineer in me had a cow over Boeing's 737 Max 8/9 software & now more discovered failures. Quality was the issue, see NTSB. A diagnostic testing narrative speaks to how the machine normally works. It leads viewers to why it's not working. Complete diagnostic tests lead to what is likely broken & show viewers why it's broken in a teardown if possible. This gives the channel huge amounts of credibility. Repair videos need to show & explain the most complete choice of repair parts & procedures even if more expensive. An alternative repair can explain the least expensive approach including the long term risks. You don't have to show your face, maybe your hands, voice-over video is okay too. If you have simple game development skills you might consider overlaying animation & "call outs" to focus attention within pictures you take. Another helpful software tool is a "Storyboard". Visually it's like a series of cartoons showing a story.[1] Mindmapping & Concept Mapping can be done using pencil pencil & paper..[2,3,4,5,6] Software is available for all of these Now you can start your own channel. Again thanks to Paul. Check "See also" Big idea [1] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storyboard Doing [2] en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Wiki_Resources/Storyboard Big idea [3] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concept_map Doing [4] en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Concept_mapping Big idea [5] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mind_map Doing [6]en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Mind_Mapping Some Freemium & Open Source en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_concept-_and_mind-mapping_software medium.com/@affineworkos/10-best-free-storyboard-creator-software-of-2024-6d5f9b91296c
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I just recently discovered @Chrisfix and he does exactly what you describe and makes very helpful videos for working on cars.
This just happened to our dishwasher this week. With this video i was able to fix it. Thanks so much! My wife was so embarrased because the used to wash jars with labels. LOL.
Lol, yes! My kids told me about your comment. Tell your wife she is in good company...I may or may not have put a few jars in with labels... 😂 I'm glad the video helped.
Your video helped immensely. My wife washed a tumbler with a big label on it and the dishes came out caked in soap and paper residue. I was getting an error on my kitchenaid that the dishwasher was unable to drain. Although when observing it, it did actually drain all of the water. It was giving us the 9-1 error of unable to drain. I would manually add a few gallons of water and it would drain it all. I checked all sensors, cleaned them, checked with multimeter. All fine. I decided to check this filter and wow.. it had gotten so clogged up that the suction force from the drain pump actually imploded the metal. I ordered a new one but in the meantime i cut out as much of the metal as possible and ran a rinse cycle. Everything is working great now. Strange that the dishwasher thought it wasn’t draining (it was). there does not seem to be a sensor that detects the water/drain level at all. My best guess is that there was a lot of resistance and the higher-than-usual amperage to the drain pump was making the dishwasher think it was struggling to drain it. I’m guessing if the water gets completely emptied out (and the filter is not restrictive) then the amperage to the drain pump drops considerably and that’s the indicator that the water is emptied out. The only sensors my dishwasher has are the overflow float, which is only used when there is a leak into the drip tray, and the infrared sensor that detects if the water is really soiled with junk. I cleaned that sensor good but that sensor is way above the water level of where the drain pump is. In schematics and visual inspection tracing every wire, i do not see anything else that would indicate to the control board that it is “empty”.
You are making me want to try this! I bet I have a paper jam too. Finger crossed it's similar and I can figure it out. EDIT: I did it! So much gunk was removed!! Shoved a kitchen towel behind the part you had your son torque out, which allowed me to get it in without a second hand. Was a bit afraid it would leak, but is not, IS WORKING GREAT NOW!! Thank you SOOOO MUCH!!! I spent $60 on a service tech who did nothing bc it decided to run when he showed up, so he fiddled with the air gap which did nothing. Then $50 for a water inlet valve because it also had stuff clogged in it that I could see, but the pump itself was time and mental energy, some muscle effort. This video was exactly what I needed to get the courage and practical info to do it myself. HERO!!
All new maytag & kitchenaid dishwashers have this ridiculous new "microfiltration system" that is clogging them. Instead of putting a fine filter inside the wash compartment (like they used to in every dishwasher) they decided to put a supposedly self-cleaning fine filter next to the wash motor under the machine so you have to go through a whole lot of trouble to clear it if (more like when) the self-cleaning fails & it clogs up. Brilliant.
This saved me. We put some jars with labels in the dishwasher and then the next time we ran it, it wouldn’t clean the dishes well at all. Followed your instructions and saw that the filter was clogged up with the sticky label residues. Terrible design by maytag to have the real filter so annoying to access
Welp, your fix was exactly the correct remedy... HAD we listened to you before following "The experts" had us running diagnostic tests that ended up burning out the motor! Long story short, the initial cause of our problem was EXACTLY how you described! Based on that I ordered a replacement pump, and after it finally arrived, we replaced it using your method! It's working now! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
It's paper labels & price stickers causing this issue. They used to get filtered out by an easy-to-access fine filter in the wash compartment. Not anymore, thanks to some genius re-engineering.
Im glad i came across your video, a little to late though. I have the same problem but had to order new circulation pump filter. Mine was all broken up. I did find a seed in there from a lemon, im still waiting for part from sears parts direct. But i did take off one hose clamp and was able to pull whole assembly out. Now im waiting on part, and i alreadt picked up new hose clamp. I noticed duswasher would fill with water then nothing else. Does this also get the lower and upper spray arms to work. Great job on video
At 6:17, where you talk about "pushing" out the pin, how does that work? should i try to pull the pin from the top? Or push the pin downwards? Also, the small metal piece below the pin, is that supposed to come off?
Thanks I was able to fall along but didn’t fix my issue. Clog is some where else or it’s a different issue or maybe my motor burned. I head a clicking. Do you know what the circulation pump part is?
How loud is this motor? I have a new Maytag that probably uses this same motor and it is very loud. Not loud like its grinding on a screw or piece of chicken bone, but a high-pitched drone. I can't tell if the motor is defective out the gate or that's just how it sounds. I know in the past, manufacturers tried to insulate this motor and that's definitely not this one.
This video helped a lot in knowing which component was the likely culprit for a suddenly non-functioning dishwasher. In mine, the filter was pretty clean, but somehow the metal mesh in the filter had become mangled.
Just a couple of notes from my experience of taking the unit apart. If you tip the washer on its left side, you can easily get to the two screws with the Allen key without having to remove the hose. Also, for the motor segment that rests in the metal housing, there is a rubber gasket that buffers the mount in place. If you pull the gasket away from the metal, it makes separating the two halves much easier.
Now the waiting game for my part to arrive. It blows me away how expensive that filter is. Looks like a $5 piece of plastic with a metal filter inside, but costs $125 CDN.
Thanks again for the help; I wouldn’t have known where to start.
Paid 160.00 for diagnostic appliance tech. Was told pump working but probably needed wash pump. I had F9 E1 error codes but pump was working. Thank goodness I found a couple of CZcams videos from people who had the same issue. This video was the easiest removal and I was able to follow without difficulties. My filter looked just like his! Yuk! DW working great now! Saved $500 for new wash pump or $500 to $1000 for a new repair! Thank you, thank you!!
Thank you so much - you saved me a lot of trouble. I had exactly the same level of blockage in my pump housing. I was about to blow $$$ on parts I didn't need, but luckily came across your video first - our dishwasher is now working again, with no parts required.
Now, in our case it was NOT paper from jar labels. We are careful not to put any kind of paper in the dishwasher, not only because of the general potential for clogs from it not breaking down, but also because we are on septic, and as such are hypersensitive to what goes down the drain.
I dug the same amount of stuff out of my pump that you did, and it was like kleenex or toilet paper soaked in water and allowed to dissolve. It was just packed in there. After I got it all out, I left it to dry on a rag on my workbench, and once it did, it's obvious that it's some kind of paper product, but from where, given that we don't put any paper into our dishwasher? Also, we'd noticed lots of what looked like water-soaked kleenex in the bottom of the dishwasher, so soft and jelly-like you can't pick it up.
Well, I have a theory as to what this stuff is - we'd been using those dishwasher pods, which if you crumble up are just powdered detergent, and what I think is that in their manufacturing process something has to hold the detergent powder together until they can encase it in that clear membrane that is on the outside, and I think that something is a very fine paper pulp. Probably in most dishwashers it's not a problem - it just exits during the drain cycle - but these particular dishwashers have that *very* fine mesh screen drum in the pump (what a stupid design) and the pulp, soft and fine as it is, can't be purged. So it just collects in the bottom of the pump housing until it reaches critical mass.
We've switched to the Finish brand of pods, which are similar BUT somehow the powder inside remains as powder, i.e. the pods are soft and pliable instead of being rock-hard. So they would not need anything to bind the powder into a "pill" before encasing them in the clear membrane. That said, Finish does make several varieties of pods, and one of them is "hard", so watch out. The "soft" ones we use are called Finish Power. Time will tell if they're helping or not.
This video helped me a lot. What I did different: I placed the dishwasher on its left side rather than the right side, and then I was simply able to lift up the insulation to get at the back screw. What was different on mine: the screws were torx rather than allen. Mine was plugged up with dog fur. Also the food grinder part on mine had self destructed, so I didn't have a choice but to replace it. I was able to clean out the impeller with a pick and needle nose pliers. When the part comes in your instructions are clear about re-assembly. Thanks!
Paul Hawkinson has done a great job of describing the problem. He goes farther explaining why it's not working and shows the problem, & walks through the repair speaking about it. Thank you.
Most CZcams machine repair videos are really "replace this part" videos that explain
parts replacement. Good. But that's done without showing viewers any diagnostic process that leads to what & why something needs attention. The Aerospace Engineer in me had a cow over Boeing's 737 Max 8/9 software & now more discovered failures. Quality was the issue, see NTSB.
A diagnostic testing narrative speaks to how the machine normally works. It leads viewers to why it's not working. Complete diagnostic tests lead to what is likely broken & show viewers why it's broken in a teardown if possible. This gives the channel huge amounts of credibility.
Repair videos need to show & explain the most complete choice of repair parts & procedures even if more expensive. An alternative repair can explain the least expensive approach including the long term risks.
You don't have to show your face, maybe your hands, voice-over video is okay too. If you have simple game development skills you might consider overlaying animation & "call outs" to focus attention within pictures you take. Another helpful software tool is a "Storyboard". Visually it's like a series of cartoons showing a story.[1] Mindmapping & Concept Mapping can be done using pencil pencil & paper..[2,3,4,5,6] Software is available for all of these
Now you can start your own channel.
Again thanks to Paul.
Check "See also"
Big idea
[1] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Storyboard
Doing
[2] en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Wiki_Resources/Storyboard
Big idea
[3] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concept_map
Doing
[4] en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Concept_mapping
Big idea
[5] en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mind_map
Doing
[6]en.wikiversity.org/wiki/Mind_Mapping
Some Freemium & Open Source
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_concept-_and_mind-mapping_software
medium.com/@affineworkos/10-best-free-storyboard-creator-software-of-2024-6d5f9b91296c
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I just recently discovered @Chrisfix and he does exactly what you describe and makes very helpful videos for working on cars.
This just happened to our dishwasher this week. With this video i was able to fix it. Thanks so much! My wife was so embarrased because the used to wash jars with labels. LOL.
Lol, yes! My kids told me about your comment. Tell your wife she is in good company...I may or may not have put a few jars in with labels... 😂 I'm glad the video helped.
Your video helped immensely.
My wife washed a tumbler with a big label on it and the dishes came out caked in soap and paper residue. I was getting an error on my kitchenaid that the dishwasher was unable to drain. Although when observing it, it did actually drain all of the water. It was giving us the 9-1 error of unable to drain. I would manually add a few gallons of water and it would drain it all. I checked all sensors, cleaned them, checked with multimeter. All fine. I decided to check this filter and wow.. it had gotten so clogged up that the suction force from the drain pump actually imploded the metal. I ordered a new one but in the meantime i cut out as much of the metal as possible and ran a rinse cycle. Everything is working great now.
Strange that the dishwasher thought it wasn’t draining (it was). there does not seem to be a sensor that detects the water/drain level at all. My best guess is that there was a lot of resistance and the higher-than-usual amperage to the drain pump was making the dishwasher think it was struggling to drain it. I’m guessing if the water gets completely emptied out (and the filter is not restrictive) then the amperage to the drain pump drops considerably and that’s the indicator that the water is emptied out. The only sensors my dishwasher has are the overflow float, which is only used when there is a leak into the drip tray, and the infrared sensor that detects if the water is really soiled with junk. I cleaned that sensor good but that sensor is way above the water level of where the drain pump is. In schematics and visual inspection tracing every wire, i do not see anything else that would indicate to the control board that it is “empty”.
I'm glad it helped you out. It sounds like you had a bit of an adventure!
Yes, After running a few loads with the filter cut out i finally installed a new one and it’s been running great since. Thanks again
You are making me want to try this! I bet I have a paper jam too. Finger crossed it's similar and I can figure it out. EDIT: I did it! So much gunk was removed!! Shoved a kitchen towel behind the part you had your son torque out, which allowed me to get it in without a second hand. Was a bit afraid it would leak, but is not, IS WORKING GREAT NOW!!
Thank you SOOOO MUCH!!! I spent $60 on a service tech who did nothing bc it decided to run when he showed up, so he fiddled with the air gap which did nothing. Then $50 for a water inlet valve because it also had stuff clogged in it that I could see, but the pump itself was time and mental energy, some muscle effort. This video was exactly what I needed to get the courage and practical info to do it myself.
HERO!!
Great news! Yes, it is such a great feeling to be able to fix it yourself. Good Job. 👍
All new maytag & kitchenaid dishwashers have this ridiculous new "microfiltration system" that is clogging them. Instead of putting a fine filter inside the wash compartment (like they used to in every dishwasher) they decided to put a supposedly self-cleaning fine filter next to the wash motor under the machine so you have to go through a whole lot of trouble to clear it if (more like when) the self-cleaning fails & it clogs up. Brilliant.
This saved me. We put some jars with labels in the dishwasher and then the next time we ran it, it wouldn’t clean the dishes well at all. Followed your instructions and saw that the filter was clogged up with the sticky label residues.
Terrible design by maytag to have the real filter so annoying to access
This was gold sir, thanks a ton! We got the F9/E1 error code and thought it was a drain issue but turns out it was the sump pump being clogged.
Thanks, man. It helped me to fix mine. The filter looked almost clean, but it turns out it was contaminated with glue (used to attach labels to jars)
This video 100% got me where I needed to be and made me look like a hero to my wife! Saved me a warranty call for sure. Thanks man
Glad it worked!
Welp, your fix was exactly the correct remedy... HAD we listened to you before following "The experts" had us running diagnostic tests that ended up burning out the motor! Long story short, the initial cause of our problem was EXACTLY how you described! Based on that I ordered a replacement pump, and after it finally arrived, we replaced it using your method! It's working now! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
They are using torx screws now instead of Allen bolts on my unit. You can also easily pop out the motor end from the rubber grommet and hanging frame
Thank you for recording this!
It's paper labels & price stickers causing this issue. They used to get filtered out by an easy-to-access fine filter in the wash compartment. Not anymore, thanks to some genius re-engineering.
Thanks so much, excellent videos and very helpful
Saved me $125 or more my boiiii , appreciate you taking the time to make this video soooo much ,, I hit like and subscribe 🤗 🫶🏽thanks again 💯😎💪🏾
Thanks man, I'm glad it helped.
I suspect this is my issue! The dishes are loaded properly and the dishwasher is filling with water....but the dishes are super dirty! Thank you!!!
Were you able to get it fixed?
Absolutely great vid. Thanks for this!
Im glad i came across your video, a little to late though. I have the same problem but had to order new circulation pump filter. Mine was all broken up. I did find a seed in there from a lemon, im still waiting for part from sears parts direct. But i did take off one hose clamp and was able to pull whole assembly out. Now im waiting on part, and i alreadt picked up new hose clamp. I noticed duswasher would fill with water then nothing else. Does this also get the lower and upper spray arms to work. Great job on video
Yes, this will get those spray arms to work better The clog keeps the water from getting to them.
@Hawkinpaul thank you I'm all up and running. Thank you for getting back to me
At 6:17, where you talk about "pushing" out the pin, how does that work? should i try to pull the pin from the top? Or push the pin downwards? Also, the small metal piece below the pin, is that supposed to come off?
This video was godsent
Thanks I was able to fall along but didn’t fix my issue. Clog is some where else or it’s a different issue or maybe my motor burned. I head a clicking. Do you know what the circulation pump part is?
Sure here is the part number. Maytag MDB8969SDM2 Circulation Pump
How loud is this motor? I have a new Maytag that probably uses this same motor and it is very loud. Not loud like its grinding on a screw or piece of chicken bone, but a high-pitched drone. I can't tell if the motor is defective out the gate or that's just how it sounds. I know in the past, manufacturers tried to insulate this motor and that's definitely not this one.
Perfect, thanks for the video, big help.
I just noticed these views. Glad it helped. 👍
helped, thank you!
Your welcome.
How long of an Allen wrench did you use?
Long enough to reach that bolt but not so long that it is hard to fir in there. I say maybe 4 to 6 inches.
@@Hawkinpaul Thanks! This video will be a huge help!