This New Trailer Hitch Is Really Cool!
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- čas přidán 19. 05. 2024
- This new type of trailer hitch was designed and made by Citymons. It's different because it not only locks in place, but it also has a built in anti-rattle feature and it doesn't require any tools to install.
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UPDATE: I put a few hundred more miles on the hitch and the next time I unhitched there wasn't any play at all, so no rattle.
SORRY FOR THE COMMENT RICK IT WONT HAPPEN AGAIN, I HAD A STUPID COMMENT FROM SOME GUY HE WAS TALKING IT LOOKS LIKE HIS SOME THAT DOES THIS FOR A LIVING, STEALING TRAILERS, I HAVE HIS INFORMATION AND LOCATION OF HIM, I VE SENT TO MESSAGE TO MY GOVERNEMENT AGENCY I WORKED FOR, AND THERE LOOKING INTO IT, . I MADE A COMMENT NEXT THING IM BEING THREATENED? I RESPECT YOUR PRODUCTS BUT I KNOW YOU HAVE NO CONTROL OVER THESE NUT CASES.
That is so good! It must be a good hitch. Too bad we can't buy one for MONTHS out! Oh well. You neglected to mention that they sent you that one to "sell" for them! Can I buy it? How much do you want for it?! lol
After one winter in Michigan Salt it would never come out again.
Seems like everything will seize up after one or two winters with salty and sandy roads. Maybe a good thing where there's no snow.
You shouldn’t leave your hitch on your car when not in use. A standard ball mount will rust the same if you leave it in.
For now I will stick to what I’m using! Thanks for your review! I definitely have my reservations on that hitch . Thanks Rick !😂😁🇺🇸
I think I'll stick with my bulletproof thank you
Thanks Rick I am going to give this a look. It makes a lot of sense.
I don't know if I would trust the mechanism that moves the 2 pin halves.
I think I would prefer to trust the single solid pin that runs all the way through the receiver.
Thank you for the review and I’m glad it’s been working out for you. I feel like it has to many hidden moving parts for my liking.
About time someone thought out of the box and invented something like this. Thanks for the review.
Interesting product. I'll be interested to see how they hold up.
As a side note, I was taught on the safety chains to hook them the opposite of how yours ate in the beginning of the video. Less of an issue with the safety clips, but when the trailer drops and you apply the brakes, the chains pull forward, and that can cause them to unhook from the tow vehicle. When hooked the other way, they rotate deeper into the receiver.
In Oz we use rated shackles.
A bolt through the receiver tightens the hitch to stop rattle, pretty standard here in Oz and a padlock can be used on the retaining pin if you don't want to pay for a locking pin. So all up $10 max.
I'm old school i guess. I like the standard hitch pin and if you lose the key your hooped! Just saying. Interesting though.
That looks like a good product. Thanks!
Id have to try one. If it worked out then I’d buy it.
what a genius idea to create something that doesn't have to be messed with so much! you put the mileage on it and the proof is in the pudding! Thanks for sharing this one, I especially like the idea of using it for Boat trailer and the ease of operation. On to more adventures!
Good clear product review. TY
Overpriced and to many parts that can go wrong ☹️ !
It looks like it has an adjustable depth stop as well so that it stops right where the holes are and you can install it with getting down and looking through the holes. This whole this is a great idea. Thanks for sharing it!!!
I can see the gearing of the whole lock/pin mechanism failing. The pins don't come out far enough for my comfort. I pull trailers over 10,000 lbs though.
Thanks Rick. That's is definitely worth looking into at that price. I hear my hitch rattle during all my trips especially during stop n go traffic and lumpy bumpy roads. Great review 👍
Just me, I like a pin going all the way through with a secure clip on the other end. Rattling, while annoying, is of no consequence.
I drilled my pin out to take a padlock stops the opportunistic thief and a bolt screwed through a nut welded on the receiver stops rattle.
Nice product…good price too
GREAT REVIEW RICK❗ Informative and thorough ! GTSY 2 again and still !
I sure like that adjustable, stainless stop on the bottom of that slider. I see why it is necessary here w/ how this thing appears to work. Neat product!
More reviews....Anywho, hope you and Linda are doing well and happy about where your travels are going...Looking forward to you next adventure , stay safe and be well....
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Run it up and down some gravel roads and dirt roads like we live on until our trailers and tell me once the grime and grit gets into that mechanism how good it works
It's now been up and down a lot of dirt roads and has over 4,500 miles on it. The mechanism is sealed and I'm not having any trouble with it. That being said, it's main feature is that it's so easy to install and remove for those people who use one frequently.
I enjoy your evaluations of relevant products.
That would be so illegal here. All removable trailer couplings here must have a "visible and confirmed locking mechanism using a pin and latch or pin and clip"
That would be one of the most dangerous things ive seen in a long time. How do you confirm the locking pin is actually engaged in the sleeve on the vehicle? Does it protrude both sides? I.e. its a solid rod through the entire assembly retained by a latch or retaining clip? Looks like its relying on frictional force to keep the (single sided?) locking pin in place.
It visually protrudes from both sides. I have over 4,000 miles on this hitch now.
Just wondering how that screw mechanism will hold up after a few months of mud and dust. Also what about freezing up?
Looks like a superior hitch to me! Thanks for another excellent review Rick!
Cool.
I wanna see in that trailer though. 😳
We had a locking pin on our hitch. Traded the truck in. Wanted to keep our hitch. Locking pin wouldn't unlock. They had to use a giant crow bar to bust it off so we could get our hitch out. Now I'm pretty scared of the whole locking thing. This does look like a very nice hitch. We have an extra small ball welded onto ours. But we rarely use it. So this would probably suit us fine too. Nice review.
Pins with locks create one problem while solving two others. Lost key/ frozen lock vs stolen/lost pins. Stolen/borrowed pins could cause a ball mount to come loose and crash through a following motorist windshield! More typically the entire ball mount is "borrowed". I found that I can store my ball mount in the front of the receiver with a std pin. Pin not likely to be noticed, and no busted knees.
I would think the anti rattle pin will wear a hole in the receiver tube and the pin will be too short to do its job
You can accomplish the same thing on a ball mount that you already have with a few dollars of hardware. I've done it.
I don't like how when you use it in the rise position that the anti-rattle device is pushing the hitch down ahead of the pin causing the ball to raise and the tongue weight is not bearing on the pins and anti-rattle device. In the drop position, you have the opposite. The tongue load reversal causing rattle is relatively low compared to the tongue weight. My point in saying this is that with time, I suspect you will see wear in the reciever pin bores. I think I still prefer the u-bolt device even if it requires a wrench.
I'll stick with my b&w
Pass for me. I'm of the keep it simple way of going.
This is prettys simple and is quick to install. I think it will mostly benefit folks who install and remove the hitch often and who don't want to mess around with wrenches. I now have over 4,500 miles on it.
Rick where can I buy one ? Or at least can you tell me who the manufacturer is so I can follow them for a production date ?
I would hate to have that on my truck when one of the mechanisms broke and he could not retract the pin or the anti-rattle wedge you’ve never get it out
I don't like the hitch pin being mechanical... 👀 Does it use gears...? 🤔
Probably a threaded mechanism.
Thank you for sharing, looks very useful
Nice! I wondered how it was going with the hitch. Now I know. (So far, I've had no reason to use a hitch in my life)
Well thought out design, I especially like the depth setter.
I thought that part was called the "drawbar"? Anyway thanks for the review.
The receiver is mounted to the vehicle and the drawbar is inserted into the receiver. You are correct.
Or referred to as a stinger.
That'll be siezed in the hitch in no time
Nice product! Thanks!
I like that there are no loose parts to misplace and then buy again.
Wow! That sure is a great hitch 👍
Hi, I have a question…. I’m looking to see if people who are DIY camper trailer makers. From scratch, cargo trailer or van and tuck. After making your camper do you run across things that fall apart because of the fastener or glue used. I always hear from people like yourself the upgrades you like to do or an item you wouldn’t recommend or do recommend. But nothing on the build falling apart compared to complaints from people who purchase manufactured RV’s. You always hear the excuse that a trailer is an earthquake and wheels. But I think most of the issues is cutting cost and time in putting them together.
Can you give your insight on this subject. Thank You!
The reason we went with an all aluminum cargo trailer to convert to a camper is that we've had really bad luck with commercially made campers falling apart due to rough roads. This cargo trailer is of all welded construction and hasn't given us any problems at all, even though we abuse it regularly. We went all aluminum to avoid the rust.
Really good review, and interesting device! TY
I'm very impressed with the idea here but I don't see it being worth anywhere near the prices on their site.
A ball mount with pin and ball can be had for $15 and up. A clamp is $12 and up.
Add in the locking hitch pin and the fact that you need to get a couple of wrenches out to install the anti-rattle clip. These are handy if you are taking it on and off frequently.
@@gonagain definitely a valid point. One thing I often forget is that there are states where having a ball mount in place with no trailer is illegal.
@@ebinmaineNever heard of that. What purpose could it possibly serve to be illegal?
@joewoodchuck3824 I'd only heard of it maybe last year. I believe it's to do with insurance regulations and trying to reduce damage (????) Again... a guess.
👍👍. Nice hitch!
Great to see that the new trailer hitch is working really well on
your travels thank you Rick and Linda have a wonderful week.
🇺🇲🚐🚐🇺🇲
Thanks, you too!
Rick thank you for the review. Are they made in the USA?
Stay safe and have a great week 🤠
Very important question! That's certainly a make it or break it answer.
I dunno that seems like you'd have to put a lot of trust in that tiny pin. Great review tho thank you.
Do you mean the retractable pin on the hitch? It's the same size as the hole in the receiver.
@@gonagain yeah does it stick completely out of the receiver? It just looks like it barely protrudes out but I could be wrong.
@@SkinE-Vadee-Veechee It doesn't matter if it is just flush with the outside of the receiver tube, or sticks out 1/4 inch, or sticks out 6 inches. Using bolt cutters on a bolt does not get more difficult the further from the end of the bolt you are cutting.
All the shear strength required of the pin is at one spot, at the inside surface of the receiver tube, and all the shear forces from the receiver tube are applied only from the ID of the holes. So, nothing wrong there. You can't visually see if the pins are hanging by a thread on the bar internally when fully extended, or some glaring error in internal design was made, but there is no way someone could make such a great design and do something that stupid, plus then miss it in testing.
Like any hitch drawbar setup, by far the bigger risk than it coming out or breaking, is that it will get welded in place by rust and never come out. I've had a hitch where I removed the pin, and it took an hour with various penetrating oils and sledge hammers, to get the bar out. Plain drawbar in plain receiver tube, pin removed. It was on a car rather than a truck, so I didn't want to just chain the ball to an immovable object and drive hoping the slamming would remove it, because it could have bent the car's non-frame attachment points. Using a 3 pound sledge, oil, and some time vibrating it with a hammer drill, eventually got it out. Then I did some filing and sanding to reopen a small clearance before reinserting it.
Nice innovation! Bet this is going to be popular.
Isn't that a ball mount?
How come this solution wasn’t thought of, years ago, lol!
I don't know, I didn't even think of that myself!
Thanks again. We suppose Linda was the hand on the camera, so she was part of this. Mahalo to you both! Aloha Ke Akua
Amene! Yes I was. Mahaolo nui for watching!
I wrap some electrical tape on the slide in.. doesn’t rattle…
It appears to me the anti rattle part should always be on the bottom when installed.
I came to say the same thing. It’s rotating the ball up when upside down like that, against the weight of the trailer. Probably why it was loose after initial testing. All the weight bouncing around against it. If it were the other way the anti rattle wedge would only have excess pressure if the trailer hitch bounces up.
Hey Rick! You can't flip those over. They are designed to push the ball down. When you flip it over, you are now pushing the ball up, putting a lot of stress on the mechanism. I would never trust that. What you need is a taller ball.
I wonder why they are sold, like most hitches, with a drop and a rise listed? This one is advertised with a 2" drop and a 3/4" rise. I don't doubt what you're telling me and I'll get a taller ball, but I still wonder about that. Wait, you mean the anti-rattle mechanism? I can see where it's now under strain the way that I have it.
@@gonagain You wouldn't think they'd want the liability, and it could be a very big liability.
I don't haul anything with a trailer. I'm wondering why one crosses the chains like that?
It's a DOT reg, as far as I know, to cross the chains.
It keeps your trailer more centered if it comes off the ball if you cross the chains
One trip on wet highway and it will never work properly again 😅
We've used this hitch on the last 4000 mile trip, on rough dusty 4x4 dirt roads, through water and rain and inclines. So far it is still working great.
What if a bad guy were to hit it with a sledge hammer? I think you would not be able to get it off your vehicle?
Well, for one thing, they're not going to steal your trailer that way.
If you have a sawsall with a harden blade you can cut any hitch pin.
Hitch pin distance guide, no clunk stopping and starting. It’s a great idea. All in one vertically integrated, it’s a no brainer.
Glad that type of hitch is not legal here in UK. All bolted are the best, no rattle, lasts the life of vehicle. That product has too many moving parts.
Don't worry. This won't be a big seller anyway.
Rock rattle and roll thank you stay safe ALL
interesting 👍
Not bad ⚡️
I now have 3,550 miles on it with no problems. I think it's great for folks who install and remove the hitch frequently. It's very well made.
no drop hitch options!
Timestamp 1:05 sure sounds like it rattles to me.
I need a 6 inch lift for mine.
Looks promising.
I have over 2,500 miles on it now and it's fine.
@@gonagain Love your adventures. U guys stay safe.
The only negative for me is the key. I sound like a school janitor when I go camping. Somewhere out there is a place filled with my lost keys and 10mm sockets. Thanks for the review. When we tow with our SUV, the unibody amplifies the rattle. With my truck, not much of a problem.
That place is probably over run with lost socks too.
Good to see some people using our brain gray matter that God gave us.
I just looked through their photos, videos, and diagrams of it. I'm a mechanical engineer, and I'm impressed. It is clear they put a lot of thought into it, plus actually prototyped and tested it. They say they paid a lot of attention to using stainless and aluminum where corrosion would be a problem, and also paid attention to sealing the lock and the mechanism. That is the right focus, because every hitch problem I've ever had with any receiver hitch, was due to rust and my own neglect in not regularly (say every year or two) checking that the drawbar could still be removed, that locking-pin locks could still be opened, etc.
The only downside I see of this unit, is that if it ever does gets to a neglected/rusted/broken condition where the mechanism itself can't be operated and you can't remove it, no amount of hammering will get it out. You will be learning a lesson about drilling, or removing the whole hitch from the car, or having a welding shop remove and replace just the hitch tube.
Personally, I would not hesitate to buy this hitch, but I'd make sure to stay on top of checking its smoothness of operation a time or two per year if I would mind it becoming a permanent part of the vehicle. Often, I am tempted to weld the hitch pin and ball to make them theft-proof anyway, though I've never actually done that.
I'm not impressed with your "engineering" assessment. The same thing can be done externally with a few $ of hardware.
@@joewoodchuck3824 That doesn't bother me. People have been doing it your way forever. Some are happy with that, some are not. To me, it's not too different than if you needed to zip tie every electrical plug you put into an outlet. Not nearly as nice as the plug staying in on its own just by inserting, or inserting and twisting.
Of course you can use a standard anti-rattle setup that is little more than a glorified U-bolt, or even just hammer shims in. And you can use a standard hitch pin with a cotter pin, or a standard crappy locking hitch pin where the lock rusts and stops working, so you might as well have just welded a hitch pin (or washers on it) in place, because either way, you'll be using a sawzall or drill to get it off.
But if you'd done all of those things for long enough, as I have, and you have two nickels to rub together, you might want to pay for this engineered solution which kills all those birds with one stone. There is a fine line between doing things the traditional, crappy way, and becoming too complicated and elegant a solution to be practical. I think this particular solution is a fantastic alternative for anyone tired of the crappy old solutions. Which can be made to work, but have some real downsides, including that they are so common that every thief can defeat them in seconds. Just being different is a big advantage in regard to security.
Many people would buy this just for its looks compared to the "rusty U bolt" look of most anti-rattle solutions. That it operates more easily, would just be icing on the cake.
Instead of welding the hitch pin just get a locking hitch pin, don't put a key in it for a few years, and you'll have to have a oxy - acetylene torch to cut it off, I have a shop and have cut many of them off for customers.
Yt best
Like# 86 - I funded the 10k/lb version. Woot!
Hi Rick. Wow, now this is a Cool Clever Device. Nothing Better than Upgrading a piece of equipment that we all need and use. Super, Intelligent Design. Thanks, and Hi Linda. Vincenzo here (Y'all have to check out my Articulating-Hitch. It's kinda cool in it's own right)
I'd like to see it! We're currently in western NM and are enjoying being out of the Montana snow.
A test someone should do:
With the hitch locked in place, contrive a very stout clamp with pins protruding from its jaws just a bit smaller than these locking pins.
Apply pressure against the locking pins to compel retraction against that angled thngy that rides in the slot to extend them through the outer tube.
The idea is to see
1. Can any amount of force break that extender mechanism?
2. If so, how much force?
3. Would this serve to remove the device if frozen in place, as some fear?
4. Would this serve a thief better than, say, simply torching off the ball?
Given the number of parts and their necessary level of precision, and the convenience, the price is not bad.
However - is this USA made, or China?
Also, why 2 levels of capacity? Just make all product to 10K; the price difference hardly justifies 2 manufactures.
Finally, far as I can see, no, you can't invert this; it is drop only.
I asked the manufacturer about inverting it and they claim it's designed to be used both ways. I now have over 4,000 hard miles on it without problems.
👍👍👍👍👍
Won’t hold up in the rust belt
That is a really cool hitch Rick,
Thanks for the review on it. I may get one for my truck.
JT
Right on!
Like# 150 - the only potential issue with this design as I see it is if it fails to release... All of the workings are internal, you'd have to cut your hitch apart to remove it and then weld it back together - if it is an integrated hitch like most are.
Or replacing the hitch in its entirety, mine has a plethora of sensors and takes about two hours to remove. Then locating a replacement hitch probably means a 500+ miles drive one way. But like I mentioned, I funded the project for the 10k/lbs version.
Fortunately, Porsche is headed for the pasture...
Probably something you don't want to have in Maine .....
I've had similar hitches if you live near the oceans or you live where they use road salt I would remove it every year and and a layer of grease
Thanks for the tip!
No way would I trust this hitch!!!!
That thing is an accident waiting to happen!
No, it's built very strong.
Liked the channel much more when u weren't advertising and selling something
That's part of being able to reach a bigger audience and gain more followers which in turn allows him to make more of the videos you like. It's easy to only watch the videos you like. Some people find these videos helpful and prefer watching them.
What do you have against me earning a living? Our regular ad free videos come out every Friday. When I do a review it comes out on Mondays so that a person can choose to watch it or not. I make it very clear that it's a review. By the way, if you think about buying something the first thing you're going to do is watch reviews on CZcams to learn about the product before you lay your money down. You're welcome.
When you hook up your safety chains, the rule of Thumb is "Hook Up". Turn your hooks around so that you don't just drop them on to your receiver.
It's so straightforward that it's hard to believe any of the big trailer accessory companies like Curt have not produced something like this before. I think the RV industry has had very little motivation to improve for decades. But I think when COVID hit and people who had no experience with RVs tried them out, they found towing a trailer to be far more complicated than it needed to be, and innovation started trickling in as a result. That Pebble trailer (czcams.com/video/IzBun_mb5jE/video.html&ab_channel=Engadget) that was announced awhile back was a direct result of an engineer trying out RVing for the first time and being inspired to improve the towing experience. Whether that trailer will ever be made or affordable is another question, but it is good to see efforts towards making the RV experience easier and less stressful.
Once that anti rattle lug beds into the receiver no more anti rattle and a wear spot in one place of the receiver…..
No thanks.