Bad Tank On A John Dow Industries 20-Gallon Fluid Evacuator
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- This is VERY Dangerous! It can and will hurt you badly if done wrong! My barely used fluid extractor sprung a tank leak and leaked hydraulic fluid and motor oil all over my machine shop! This is the story of how I attempted to repair the tank and what I think of the 20-Gallon Fluid Evacuator.
![Oil Changes Without the Mess! John Dow Industries Fluid Extractor [JDI-6EV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3aoZ5_EglIE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Oil Changes Without the Mess! John Dow Industries Fluid Extractor [JDI-6EV]](/img/tr.png)
nice idea, we use to use exhaust from vehicle plumbed in to what ever we were cutting on or welding on.
That would work too... I just like to work in the AC when it's 110 outside :)
Bentonite comes in like 50 pound bags. Used in drilling mud and pond water proofing. Pour some on the concrete oil stain. Sweep it around. Put out fresh as the oil is picked up out of the cement. A few days will do an amazing job of pulling oil from concrete. Bentonite is a super absorbent.
I have purchased about 5 truckloads in my life... Damn leaking ponds... BEst think I have ever used though was cat litter...
3 points Mr. W, ... 1. When water and oil blend and then separate, the oil rises and the water goes to the bottom allowing rust to become a problem. 2. Maybe you could have taken a 4" or 5" or 6" hole saw and cut the entire bottom out and replaced it with some 3/16 " plate, beat up with a hammer, into a similar dome as you cut out. It is not a pressure vessel so very low danger of future rapid disintegration events. You could then guestimate the total damage from the rusting on your cutout. 3. As for welding a tank or vessel, you could turn it up-side-down and fill the tank 98% full of water and remove the potential of any significant quantity of oxygen to be present. Plus you would be welding with a gravity assist. Good Luck and be safe!
You mentioned should turn that into a bottom drain I think that would’ve been a really good idea. Make that slug about 2 inches diameter and then have a pipe coming out sideways half-inch pipe because there’s always a few drops of water sitting in the bottom.
There is a hose on the very bottom that is where the oil is sucked out of the tank for disposal... I though it should be enough...
When I was stationed in Koreas (mid 80's), two Koreans died when the 5000 gal fuel storage tank blew up. Either they didn't purge the tank or someone told them that the tank had been purged but failed to test it. The small building I was in about 250 ft away got some damage. I thought an attack aircraft was about to come thorugh the building as we weren't but 400 ft from the runway..
That would make me change my shorts too!
That's clearly been repaired Steve. I would have contacted the manufacturers and sent them pictures of their bodged up oil sucker. It doesn't matter that it's a couple of years old it's the principal and if they blow you off buy a different make if you have to buy another one lol. I'm only a few minutes into the video and I assume you are not just going to weld up the holes but put a nice chunky at least 1/8" thick piece of steel plate on it. But I will now watch and see how you are gong to fix it. By the way sometimes as in this case I would fill the thing with dry sand and that will exclude the vast majority of any volatile fumes and that will leave little or no room for any gasses to explode. Pop maybe but BANG never!
Now I've watched it all, there is one thing I think that I would do Steve, there is an epoxy manufactured for sealing petrol tanks here in the UK , rusty vintage motorcycle petrol tanks ( gas tanks) here it is called Petseal. I assume similar products are available in the states.. I'd clean the tank as best I could with acetone (you don't need that much because I'd only seal the bottom say 7-10 inches where any water is going to be well below that level ) and follow the instructions and your tank is sealed properly and should give you no more trouble. Cheers from the UK. And please don't go blaming Don for everything ! Lol
Send it all to Texas AG! They need a RECALL & replacement too.
samrodian: Don did it.
You're in the hospital recovering from a heart attack and your oil extractor simultaneously springs a leak. Seems like, by some spooky hiccup in the universe, your fate is entwined with that tank. You're going to wake up one night and find it inexplicably sitting at your bedside. I sure am glad you didn't not live anymore!
Now your giving me nightmares..!
I bought the cheap one from Harbor Freight. Must be going on 10 plus years of use and I love it.
Mines good when it's not leaking... :)_
If you have not put it back into service yet. get a tank liner applied. Water is going to sink in that system even condensation from the air will make its way to the bottom. Great repair and approach to the work. Another commenter mention KBS I would agree with that suggestion.
I was thinking about it... Going to be really hard to clean it well enough for something to stick.. HAve to think on it some more... Thanks for watching..
@@10swatkins You could put some degreaser of sorts inside the tank along with a chunk of chain and roll it around on the floor (not using the built-in wheels), and-or, make a belly band strap of sorts and rotate it in the air, top-to-bottom, to grind and scrape the inside of the unit clean of flaky corrosion and chemicals. Then flush the tank per the coating instructions.
I would have cut the rot out with a hole saw, welded in an appropriate size black iron pipe fitting, installed a 90 ell and ball valve to drain. Done. Don't make solutions to simple issues harder than they are. 😁 Steve, love your channel.
What you can't see in any of the inside tank pictures is the bottom drain hose. This has a hose at the very bottom that the vacuum sucks everything out of the bottom.. Not any need for a drain there... thanks for watching!
@@10swatkins Apparently the self-evacuation system was inadequate. A manual ball valve drain is absolute.
Still, a drain wouldn’t hurt and would remove any doubt. A little compressed air in the top with the drain open would blow it all out.
Because it never fully drains all the fluids out. Any water will rust the bottom thru.
The tank was brand new. It was rusted through when he bought it. The paint was bubbled
@@donmadere4237 thanks don.. you new shop looks great. did the shaper get assembled yet.. '
@@waynep343not yet moving stuff into the new shop will finish up the shaper next
I am eagerly awaiting the scrape-fest once those 10EE rails are ready. I know this project is part of that process too- gotta get the water out of the planer's oil.
I use CO2 for the same purpose; I get nuggets (about the size of a Pecan) from my welding gas supplier. Glad your back in the shop. Oh, and thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Glad you made it ok!
There was probably water in some of the machines you removed oil from. Without a bottom drain, the water never get out. I've seen many oil extractors scrapped for the same reason. They need a sump and a drain in the bottom.
That was the first time he used it, came new with the holes in it
There is a hose in the very bottom so you can suck everything out... I would think that even if the water was in the very bottom it would have been covered in oil thus keeping the O2 needed for rusting away...
If you think the tank is internally rusted, try using fuel tank slosh. This stuff is used by home builders of aircraft to seal their fabricated fuel tanks. Try Wicks aircraft supply.
Think it would stick to the oiled metal? Be pretty hard to clean it all out...
My grandmother told me a story about a relatives son who was welding on some kind of a tank, and lost his life when it exploded. I don't know what's in the oil that you had in there, but the guy who looks after our furnaces and delivers our oil, told me that there are microbes in the latest concoction of fuels that actually eat the tanks out, and that our not so old tank, is already close to having to be replaced.
Well that sucks!
Or he wants to sell you a new tank!
No, here our commie government makes them change them after ten years.@@ellieprice363
$200.00 gets you a Harbor Freight oil extraction tank. Add a warranty and your set for life.
I believe you are correct about the bottom head having a hole in it, maybe a top that was welded up due to in inventory shortage or a sleepy weldor that made a mistake. What ever I would have definitely contacted the manufacturer with photos. Top pro thinking and video production as usual! Thanks Steve! ps Lots of time, I put a set of Vice grips on the work and then the weld ground, positive contact -.
very good job steve
Thank you sir!
You could always drill that slug you welded on and tap it, put a street ell on a ball valve so you could drain a little out and see if it has any water in the bottom.
You can't see the hose that reaches the very bottom in the pictures.. I can suck everything out of the tank.. I thought about taping a hole into the cover piece but it was not really needed because of that hose...
Yep, totally agree with you, doing anything with containers like this is always dangerous and should only be done by someone experienced.
Excellent video and detailed explanations. Impressed with the knowledge of the commenters here too! Did you tell John Dow about this? Seems like they would want to stand behind it, or at least understand the situation and try not to repeat it. I just got a 6 gallon model delivered today. Hope I don't encounter the same, but dare say my fluids will likely cause corrosion too over time from embedded moisture.
John Dow found this video and what they did about it is in this video... czcams.com/video/yhbxyY2PfQ4/video.html
What about a drain in the bottom to remove any water that settled out?
There is a hose on the very bottom that is where the oil is sucked out of the tank for disposal... I though it should be enough...
Those holes are clearly rust holes from water in the tank, likely before it was made into the oil sucker. If tanks are left outside and not plugged they can draw in an amazing amount of water from the daily heating and cooling drawing in damp air. I repeat your warning about welding any enclosed space. I have personally welded dozens of tanks. I fill to within less than an inch of where I am welding. this limits the amount of vapor volume available ( thus O2 volume) I would likely have gotten into the CO2 habit, but that is an hour drive from my home to pickup dry Ice. I have seen square fuel tanks turned round by an explosion because the welder stuck a hose in one bung and let it run out of the drain bung. I was not there when it happened but I think he had to change his shorts. I have also seen the burns on a man that was cutting with a torch 6' from a gasoline tanks that had been drained 3 years before. ANY enclosed space is a concern when sparks or heat is present. Be safe if in doubt hire someone who knows what they are doing to deal with it.
That was my thought on the holes too, happened before the first use with oil... There was never any water put into that tank and it had a foot of oil over any that might have sank to the bottom of the tank after separating from water contaminated oil. Still need O2 to get to the metal to rust...
A retired mechanic told me that he welded leaky gas tanks by flushing out the fumes with carbon monoxide from the exhaust of a running vehicle. After the inert gas had cleared out the fumes he said “ you could weld on it all day,”. Of course carbon monoxide is dangerous also but at least it won’t explode.
That works but is dangerous if you are also breathing the fumes :) I was working in the AC in the shop and it would have been bad :)
You are a smart fella
Naw just poor and like to make things so had to figure out stuff ;)
Nice job.
Looks great.
Thanks!
Now you have a nice thick piece of metal on the base of the cylinder, is it worth drilling it and adding a tap to be able to drain off any water from below the oil?
There is a hose on the very bottom that is where the oil is sucked out of the tank for disposal... I though it should be enough...
i dont know whats more exasperating: paying a little for low quality or paying a lot for mid quality
Not the first vacuum tank I've seen rusted like that ... although yours also looks like welded hole as well.
I don't know, but does a vacuum condense the moisture out of the air and create water in the tanks during operation?
CO2 is the way to go! Used it after a water fill and flush before brazing gasoline tanks.
Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
The water would still be below the old oil level and O2 would still be needed for continuing rusting...
Hydraulic oil is hydroscopic my tractor oil will draw moisture in my garage after i have opened and sealed back
Possibly sitting shop with slight temperature swings it still can draw moisture from humidity in shop
Air conditioning pulls humidity out but space still has relative humidity of 40-45% is ideal
Anything higher it can get really wet in oils quick
I can see that happening... This was a sealed tank in a climate controlled room.... I just think it was bad from the factory and someone tried to weld up the pin holes!
@@10swatkins yup anything is possible these days
Wasn’t like you was in any shape to find any flaws at that time
Like the old saying when it rains it pours sometimes
Win some lose some 😂
I think you used more wire on the patch then they used building the tank.. I wonder if its made in Pakistan lol!!
I did not want to do it again :) Wire is cheap!
I think I might have sacrificed the charge on a CO2 fire extinguisher rather the futz with the dry ice in the hope it displaces all the O2.
Then you would have a "one shot" at it... The dry ice kept it full of CO2 for about an hour.... You can see the co2 coming out of the top drain hole so it was filled to the brim... Besides a fire extinguisher would be about 4 times the cost of the ice... Thanks for Watching.
I had a job that occasionally required me to vacuum up titanium dust. That stuff went boom resl good.
Well I am glad you are still with us :)
steve now you have the holes repaired get you a gas tank repair kit and put a rubber liner in it .
I wonder how that would work with all the other tapped holes in the tank... Probably have to drill them out.. Also I would wonder if it "stuck " good enough to resist the vacuum pulling on it..
Steve, I wonder if a coating of something like KBS Tank Sealer would protect the metal from further corrosion.
I've never messed with it so I just don't know.. I figure it's going to be a bear to get clean enough.
@@10swatkins You could put some degreaser of sorts inside the tank along with a chunk of chain and roll it around on the floor (not using the built-in wheels), and-or, make a belly band strap of sorts and rotate it in the air, top-to-bottom, to grind and scrape the inside of the unit clean of flaky corrosion and chemicals. Then flush the tank per the coating instructions.
Did you think about using a plow disk as a patch on the bottom of the tank? Would have to cut it down and weld a drain plug in the center but would be easy and quick.
That sir is an excellent idea! I was thinking if I had to make a bigger patch just using my press and forming a curved disk but a plow disk of about 10 inches would be perfect.,
Why did you not wash the tank out with hot water a detergent? The best repair in my experience, is epoxy poured into the bottom of the tank. I've repaired many Madison-Kipp lubricator tanks with the same condition. Clean it, sandblast the bottom, then seal it with 1/8" of flexible epoxy.
I figure for the best, fastest and most long lasting you can beat hot metal :)
I suspect many of the extractors are made in the same factory in China and are just painted different colors and get different stickers.
Isuspect you are right!
Auto oil always has minute amounts of water if allowed to sett^to settle because of condation doesn't evaporated completely oil only runs 180 degrees to 195 in the pan normally
BUt I would think that the foot of oil over any water would not let the required o2 to get to the metal to continut rusting... I guess some of the O2 from the water might do it...
Steve could you have applied a type.of epoxy and had a much safer application that would have worked ?
This was pretty safe... the epoxie would require a heck of a lot of work to get it clean enough..
@@10swatkins Steve would the Dry ice trick work to braze or weld gas ⛽️ tank
Why the hell they don't coat the insides of these things to stop rusting and same goes for compressors too. They do do it with some of the more expensive compressors and they last for ever.
Yep, that's exactly what's happened, as a lot of drained oil will have some moisture in it, plus the tank condensating. So I'd put a bung in the bottom to fully drain it.
Saving a buck...
I think you could have done it with a pint of "carbon tetrachloride" in it. I think I would have pounded a circle of ⅛" steel sheet the size of a dinner plate into matching the bottom of the tank. I only stick weld. Ron W4BIN
To each his own :)
Since you have a ring roller. I would have rolled a piece of rod or tubing. Welded that to a plate inside and out. Then welded the plate to the bottom by welding the ring.
You just want to make me work harder!
@@10swatkins not at all steve. I just wanted to cover more of the bottom.
I almost blew myself up cleaning out a fuel tank with a 2" air hose. Who would figure, right?
I had the obvious fuel and air and no apparent heat... However, as I was attempting to blow the contaminants out of the drain hole the tank pressurized. When I pulled the air hose away from the filler BLUEFF! I might not have thought much about that instant if it hadn't been for the diesel blue smoke that came out of the tank. Apparently residual fuel had combusted from the pressure.
I though long and hard about doing this repair, never know what's going to bite you in the ass... Glad you are ok :)
@@10swatkins Thank you. I enjoy your videos. I like the technique of using dry ice. Thanks again.
Static electric sparks?
@@johnrussell6620 I don't know. But it was a heavy gage steel tank on piece of construction equipment. If the tank shredded from the overpressure...I would have been shredded
@@RobertWilliams-mk8pl I am offering that perhaps the chemicals-oils-fuels, whatever was there, in the tank were atomized by the high velocity compressed air. Then the fact that the air is flying out the nozzle of the blower created the opportunity to generate a static spark, igniting the atomized vapor instantly, outside or inside the tank. ---- Take some compressed air and fill a large trash bag and feel the static energy build up. That "STATIC" energy came solely from the air molecules rubbing against each other as they move through the blower and across the void they are filling, and then accumulating on the plastic bag 2nd. Lightning is wind and dust particles being agitated during a thunderstorm. Those particles may even be wet at the time of a lightning strike. Good luck, Be CAREFUL.
Steve I see Dumbo Don was smart enough not to be there for that LAB EXPERIMENT WHOS THE DUMMY NOW
Why didn't you just drill out the wholes and cut some thread in them and screw some plug into the holes? Or you could have used epoxy and put a glass fiber patch over the bottom.
Too much rotten metal to put just a plug in and it was thin also... I just know that fiberglass would decide to leak one day :(
Recycling ship that’s been in the ocean , they turn them into everything, that’s the problemI I would say.
It is amazing how much they reuse!
I’m Happy you did not blow up just think of how sad Don would be. 😅
I am more happier than you are :)
I think this was a manufacturing defect. When the dish was spun there was a crack, so someone poorly welded the fracture
I think they make these heads by heating and pressing... At least that is how they do it here at Navasota Heads...
Why didn't you do a water pressure test? I,ve seen lots of videos doing just that!
This is not a pressure tank, it sucks fluids in by a Vacuum created by a Venturia ( SP) pipe connected to the air hose... No pressure is inside the tank. The worse it can do is collapse :)
@@10swatkins I understand. Just an excellent way to seek other weaknesses. Just saying..
Rust must be more metal corroding . If never seen such rust , two big and two small holes and the surrounding is heal. Anything must happen to the bottom at the past. Greetings from germany. Co2 minus 78°C .
Thanks for watching !
If that tank had any access to atmosphere and the temperature went from warm to cold, there was water in the bottom.
IT would have had to been before me.... Only water it might ever had was from oil with water in it... Then it was closed off with the oil in it and stored in a climate controlled room....
JB Weld and Stainless Steel Woven Wire Mesh Fine Screen Mesh Steel
But then we probably would not have any chance of a BOOM :)
Boom
No Boom :)
Dare I say Chinese steel
Say it ain't so!
You will never get a good weld with all that oil in it, should have rinsed it out with gasoline first 🙂. What do you do with a tank factory that can't get a tank to pass a pressure test, make oil tanks!
The oil was all on the inside of the tank, no oil was on the outside where it was welded... Your right it might have been a reject.