DeWalt DCD996 Chuck Removal & Fitting a Replacement. Difficulty- HIGH.
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- čas přidán 20. 09. 2021
- This video is aimed at those with a damaged chuck on a DeWalt DCD996. After my chuck jammed I found out the chuck is not supposed to be removed and DeWalt wants you to buy a whole new transmission with a new chuck already fitted. In this video I show how I removed the chuck on my drill and replaced it with a new one. It’s not an easy repair and while you don’t need many tools you will need a No.10 & 15 Torx bits and be mechanically minded. You will also need a source of very high heat like oxy-acetylene. It’s a fair bit of work but it saved me a lot of money and saved me from throwing out half my drill to landfill. I wasn’t intending to make a complete start to finish video but that’s how it’s ended up so I have used parts of three different videos to make one. I hope this explains my variable sound quality and different lighting levels. Thanks and good luck.
Introduction
Disassembly 2:16
Chuck Removal 5:50
Chuck/ Arbour Separation 7:15
Hammer Re-assembly 10:45
Transmission Re-assembly 13:20
Which Chuck? 18:18
Final Comments 20:28 - Zábava
Hi Stuart! That was an excellent and detailed video on servicing the drill chuck... I can only imagine how long it took the first time you did it having to figure out all these steps! Outstanding!!
Yes it took a while😂😂. I think the quality of the video is pretty poor but I hope the message is clear enough. Cheers mate.
Thank You for posting this video. It helped me a lot. I'm in the UK and most parts seem to be available for this drill.
The chuck had seized up, so decided to replace it. Got it apart ok with help from a different you tube video.
As many have experienced, getting the chuck off the spindle is a big struggle. I was reluctant to use so much heat around the spindle for fear of altering the temper of the steel . I bought a new spindle as well as a new chuck. When the spindle arrived in the post I initially thought they'd sent me the wrong one as it had a bearing and a serrated disc as part of it. Didn't realise that this bit was in the nose of the gearbox and was retained when the old spindle was knocked out.
Seeing your video here, showing the serrated part for the hammer action that's pressed onto the spindle put me back on track. All fixed now and back up and running. Thank You 🤓
Ps I did try to separate the old chuck and spindle. Heating it up a bit and bashing it with a hammer un seized it .
Hi Mathew, I so glad it helped. It sure is an abomination of a set up but I’m glad you persevered. I think I mentioned in the video that one of the options was to buy the spindle from the UK. You guys are the only country I could find that sold just that piece/s. All the best and thanks for your encouraging comments. Cheers Stuart.
You rock. Thankyou so much. I bought a chuck for 36$. Repaired it myself. 300~$ drill fixed. Rock on!!
Thanks Travis and good for you at beating DeWalt. I’m really glad I could help. Cheers Stu👍👍👍
Thank you so much for the detailed video. Your explanation on what to do with the toothed washer was clear and being able to physically see the shaft and how far to drive the washer (until it hits the shoulder on the shaft) saved this drill. I replaced my chuck and it was stuck on hammer drill, but after watching your video, I was able to fix it. Great video.
Hi Jose, I’m so glad my video was able to help you save your drill as that was why I made it, to help people like yourself. Thanks so much for your kind feedback I really appreciate it. Good luck my friend. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Stuart you are a very very clever guy . love all your video's and remember stay safe and make 🍺🍺👍👍🇬🇧
Hi again Brian, thanks for your comments. We’re doing the best we can at staying safe. Cheers mate, Stuart.
Stuart this is the 3rd or 4th time I commented on your video, each time I learn a lot more. Regrettably I own two of these exact same drills.
Let me say that this is the best DIY video I have ever watched; extremely detailed, very thorough. You are a real pro. I have replaced the chuck on one of these twice and once on the newer one which I bought new 3 mos ago. I offer the following comments based on my experience using and abusing these drills.
- If I had it to do all over again I would never ever purchase this drill. Don't be fooled by the brand name. The chuck is an inferior design, the achilles heel, so to speak. It jams frequently and replacing the chuck is not for the weak of heart. You will end up at some point either changing the chuck or discarding the drill; the only question is when. It is a major undertaking, as Stuart so eloquently explains. Replacing the chuck on other brands even if a little more expensive, does not involve complete disassembly of the drill. I would consider Makita , Milwaukee or Bosch or even another brand name.
- This drill does work well, but in a workshop (light duty) environment so do not entertain using it for heavy jobs. Dust is its biggest enemy. My two drills were used for drilling granite rocks in preparation for rock splitting. That means getting the body of the drill too hot to touch and having the chuck absorb lots of rock dust and then subsequently dealing with constant jamming and cleaning before having the pleasure of replacing the chuck. For heavy jobs like mine, do yourself a favor and go out and buy or rent an SDS rotary hammer drill say with a 1" or larger chuck because, otherwise, like me, you will pay a heavy price. In my case, I thought it was only going to be one rock and it ended up being perhaps 10-15 in total over several months. Each time I thought; this is the last one so why look for a heavy duty drill. As I pointed out, my chucks lasted only 3 mos. Dewalt designed the chuck so you would be incentivized to replace the whole drill and not just the chuck.
- If you do this job yourself, take plenty of photos as you go along, and do not overlook Stuart's recommendation to rebuild the hammer mechanism as well. That is not optional.
- On my first rebuild, I followed Stuart's advice and used JB Weld (epoxy) instead of Locktite and it worked out well. Matter of fact i had to use heat to separate the shaft from the chuck, so no worries about the chuck coming loose.
- If you already own this drill, baby it, because replacing the chuck will really challenge you and frustrate you and like me it is not a job you want to do twice; or even once. Having a shop change if for you will be expensive. There were times in doing this job I considered putting a gun to my head and pulling the trigger. Fortunately I do not own a gun, just two nightmarish Dewalt hammer drills.:
It was Stuart's video that kept me from borrowing a pistol from a neighbor. If you do own a gun I recommend not tackling this job. I am still amazed at how Stuart figured out how do this by himself.
One final comment is for all potential users who do not own a Dewalt drill, hammer or otherwise, and who do not believe my comments, browse CZcams and look at all the videos on how to fix a jammed Dewalt chuck and a few others on changing the chuck.
Hi Cayrick, thanks again for your very generous praise. I did warn at the beginning of the video that it isn’t an easy job😂😂😂 but I suspect you are better at it than me by now. The most frustrating part to me is that DeWalt is fully aware of this issue and actually deliberately engineered it this way.
Cheers my frustrated friend. 👍👍👍
Stuart -I watched your excellently detailed video. Not sure the year you made this, but I had the same realization 5 years ago when my chuck failed. The 'factory' changed out the entire drill - no repair.
While I own many Dewalt products (most use same battery), this design has started pushing me back to Milwaukee. Yes, what was Dewalt thinking to release such a convoluted design.
I call this "win the battle, lose the war". Dewalt - THANKS FOR THE EDUCATION!
Hi Tom and thanks for your very kind comments. I recently laid out all my DeWalt tools and batteries to see what I had and took some photos for insurance purposes. This also made me realise that I’m too heavily invested in Dewalt to change as it would just be too expensive unfortunately.
Cheers, Stuart.
Stuart, I liked your detailed explanation of how to replace the chuck. Very thorough! I can only imagine that there were quite a few times that you took apart the drill to work out how to do this. The result is an excellent video, clearly illustrating the difficulty that is encountered. Very informative!
Hi Keith, yes, I think I took it apart 4 times all up. Twice to fix it and twice to film it as I hadn’t intended to make a video about it at first but then changed my mind. It’s difficult at first but now I know what I’m doing I think I could get it done in half an hour or so. Thanks for your encouragement, it’s really appreciated. Stu👍👍👍
The chuck on my DCD996 needs to be replaced. After watching this very informative video I have decided to say screw you. DeWalt. I am going to replace my DeWalt with a Milwaukee hammer drill. It's a little more expensive but it's also more durable. And I am NOT going to give DeWalt any more of my money because they have screwed up a simple operation that I could have done myself. In fact, when my DeWalt stuff goes bad I will eventually replace everything with Milwaukee. My son uses it at work in construction...it's 10 years old and no problems. My nephew is a deck builder and her uses Milwaukee power tools also.
To be honest I would change as well but I have too much invested in DeWalt tools to change. My son uses Milwaukee commercially and they seem to be ahead on innovation with a bigger variety of tools available. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
Cut it off with 4in angle grinder or a cutoff tool,
Thankyou for your work, you have saved me a lot of time trying to figure out how how to remove my seized chuck or money in buying another drill.
Thanks Jon, you’re welcome my friend. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
😂😂😂Whadatheyf****n callthat? The story of my life! Hi Stuart, just found your channel through a comment you made on Hand Tool Rescue. Binge watched a few posts but it’s time to get into my day. Subscribed, I look forward to more. Cheers from North Queensland.
Thanks heaps and I’m glad you enjoyed the videos. Cheers mate 👍👍👍
Great education man! Thank you for posting!
Thanks heaps. 👍👍👍
@@scroungasworkshop4663 anytime!
Stuart, here I am commenting again on your superb video. I own two of these which don't seem to appreciate drilling basalt rock (extremely hard volcanic rock) in preparation to splitting rocks with wedge and feathers. This is a dusty job and drill bits die quickly and often turn red hot in the process. The 2nd of these drills I not to many months ago replaced the chuck, but after doing so the hammer feature does not work. Followed your instructions but must have done something wrong. I am in the process of dis-assembling it again to look inside the hammer housing. Turns out that I abused and punished the drill to such a degree that one of the two gears that mesh together to produce the hammer action is worn out. Looking at your video made it clear to me that the gear inside the housing (not on the shaft) had no teeth remaining.
No more basalt rocks for these two drills. Lost too many brain cells repairing these two characters and besides I have to use several diffferent dia. bits to get to the final 5/8" hole and the bits are not cheap and have a short lifespan.
I recently bought a large Bosch hammer drill (1-5/8") 15 lbs. and what used to take me 4-5 hours and 2 recharges and short chuck life, with the Dewalt drills can accomplished in 10 minutes. The Bosch uses SDS Max bits which have a shaft dia. of 18mm and lock solidly into the Bosch chuck. I learned that it is better to buy the right tool for the right job. I finally realized that in digging holes for planting trees and constantly encountering large rocks was a situation that would not end anytime soon. I can put a 5/8" bit (final size) and complete a hole in one shot and the bit lasts and lasts.
You rightly point out that Dewalt's chuck design is inferior and if you push the drill too hard or use it on dusty jobs you will soon replace the chuck through a combination of jamming and slippage of the jaws. Replacing a chuck is not a job for the light of heart and is not something you do not want to do more than once in your life given that life is hard enough as is. This will be my fourth and hopefully my last attempt at this. Having said, that I copied your video onto my computer in the event that one day it is censored by youtube and deemed to contain offensive content. Hope not, but might be doing teardown #5 at a future date.
Hi Cayrick and welcome back. I agree that getting a bigger dill was a good idea as it sounds like what you’re doing is way to much for the DeWalts.
Thankfully I’ve had some very good feedback about the video and I’m still getting questions from time to time. I was going to change to another brand in protest but after laying out all my DeWalt gear, and photographing it for insurance purposes, I realised it was going to cost way to much to change. I would have been looking upwards of $5k to replace it all and would be lucky to get $2k for the old stuff so I’ll be staying with DeWalt.
I’m glad you downloaded my video, it means it must be ok. I have premium CZcams as well and love it. Definitely worth the price of $14.99 a month.
Cheers for now my friend, Stu.
Thank you for the informative video I appreciate it.
Thanks Tahoe, I glad you enjoyed it. Cheers Stuart.
Great video of a nightmare repair. I finally got frustrated and trashed the whole mess.
Bugger, but I can’t blame you. Cheers and thanks👍👍👍
Nice job Stuart! It really bugs me that companies continue to structure things for repeat sales rather than long life and repairability! Even if they have the knowhow, most people will still find it more economical just to buy a new drill unfortunately! Enjoyed the out-takes! 🤣 Cheers, Chris
Thanks Chris, I agree with you about repeat sales. I really don’t understand DeWalts thinking on this but it’s sure to make their customers angry. Cheers Stuart.
Umm... built in obselesense has been with us for several years now with all sorts of stuff... grr. Didn't know these drills were so complicated, great vid stuart, thanks
Thanks Steve, they could be a bit more subtle about it😂😂
I just realised that you’re teaching me how to engrave and you have uploaded another lesson. Love you’re style Steve. Cheers Stuart.
Sir nice work
Thank you very much 👍👍
very helpful
Brilliant method mate. Probably beyond my skill set. Glad I don’t have a Dewalt drill. My crappy Ozito does what I want from it and if it ever fails, it won’t break the bank to replace.
Jesus Shed man you got me there. It’s hard to argue with your logic. The only thing I don’t like about the cheaper Bunnings/ Repco/ Aldi brands is they have a habit of changing their brands and then there is no support for what you have. Remember when Bunnings sold GMC? Cheers mate. 👍👍👍
Cut it off with cut off wheel,i used a DeWalt 4 1/2in angle grinder,just be careful the shaft gets bigger where the threads are
thanks so very much, good video
Hey thanks Alcyr and I appreciate you subscribing. Cheers Stuart 👍👍👍
Great video. Thanks to Dewalt for making it a total PITA. Managed to strip both my 796 down but could never get the arbour off. I’ll try the heat trick. Will never buy another dewalt drill. Gone back to Makita
Thanks Adrian and I’m glad it was of some use to you. If I could afford to I’d change as well. 👍👍👍
Good video - thanks mate. I think that replacement spindle from the UK would be the winner for me - that and a nice German ROHM chuck. Swap the fancy chuck onto another drill in future if the rest of it fails. BTW on the 887 impact the motor, trigger, and control board with wiring in between is one part that is more than the whole unit, just shameful. I wore the trigger out on mine and that meant wearing out the PCB in the control board - very tricky if not impossible to repair.
Hi Fredio and thanks for your comments. Yet another example of a few worn out DeWalt parts costing more than a new drill. I find it extremely frustrating that DeWalt is happy to create unnecessary waste by making their parts expensive and only available as subassemblies.
If I wasn’t so heavily invested in DeWalt I would switch brands. Cheers mate, Stu.
For removing the Chuck from the shaft,put flat sides in a vise very tight, take a 9mm socket with a breaker bar and just break it separate,easy as that
Ok, you try that on a DCD996 or any other DeWalt drill without the screw on chuck and let me know how you get on👍👍
Thank you, very helpfully video guide, i looking a long how replace chuck
Thanks for your comments and glad to help👍👍👍
Thanks
I just changed my Dewalt chuck the other night in a few minutes 1 the center screw is a TORX T-20 bit with a left handed thread to remove it ....that means turn it like you are tightening to remove it then get a large allen key and lock it into the chuck and strike it with a hammer real good it will take some good hits to the chuck to remove but it will come off the normal way
Hello George, did you watch the video? Because I thought is was fairly clear that the DeWalt drills I’m referring to (996) have no screw in the bottom of the chuck to undo so how do you remove those?
Hi there
Thanks for fantastic video. I managed change the chuck on DCD999 but my gun is in hammer mode on any position. Any idea what I can do?
Yep, rewatch the video from 8:55 as that was one of the problems I addressed. The back half of the two hammer discs has to be pressed or tapped onto the arbour shaft. Failure to do that results in the hammer being permanently engaged. This is a common problem when the chuck is pried out of the drill with levers or screwdrivers without pulling the drill apart. When the shaft is put back in the drill, if the hammer disc doesn’t get pressed back into place properly get permanent hammer. I hope this helps. Cheers Stuart.
The evil empire of tools (Stanley Black and Decker) strikes back. I will try to have them replace the chuck before the 3 year warranty expires.
Hi. I fixed mine with your video thanks a lot Lennart
great video! i am wondering if that extreme heat will wrap the shaft??
Good point but in this case it didn’t. You may have noticed that I played the heat up where the threads were to try and avoid getting the shaft too hot.
Cheers and thanks for watching. 👍
They have designed it to be *not* repairable so you are forced to buy a new one because you are committed to their bloody batteries. 3D printing has made it possible to easily print adapters so other brand batteries will fit your tools. At some stage the need to commit to a brand because they have a proprietary battery connection will come to an end. Maybe the EU will force the issue. They don't put up with crap like that. They forced phone manufactures to make the connection from the charger to be a common one. This save 55,000 tonnes of e-waste in the EU each year from people throwing their old chargers out when they purchased a new phone.
Companies can be such bastards. *Thank You* for the video and I will stick with the _disposable_ Ozito/Einhell range at my age. The 5 year warranty will outlast me if I'm lucky. 👍
Jesus Joseph, I hope you last longer than five years mate. But your correct the world would be a better place without so much proprietary equipment. Cheers and live long my friend. Stu👍👍👍
G'day mate loving your channel
I used to have old Hitachi first of the 18v
Kit and eventually spent $ on a Milwaukee kit with much larger batteries
But missed the Hitachi compact/ strong drill
I found a bloke on eBay who 3D prints adaptors so I now clip the adaptor onto my old Hitachi drill then clip Milwaukee battery onto the adaptor
Has given old drill a new life
Just a thought mate as you could buy a better drill and adaptor and still be compatible with your old gear
Just a thought mate 👍
PS unbelievable how good my old Hitachi has been
I've already replaced Milwaukee chuck once while old Hitachi is still original
Hi Tom, I considered doing that but now I have replaced the chuck I’m pretty confident that I can do it in under half an hour. You know how it is, the first time you tackle a job like this, while also filming it, takes a while but the next time you know exactly what needs to be done and you just hook straight in, no mucking around and get it knocked over in no time. I certainly believe the Japanese made tools, at least the early ones, were of very high quality. Thanks for taking the time to comment and giving me a good suggestion. Cheers mate, Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663
Mate I know exactly what you mean
Being a farmer there's always another job more important right now so I'll just leave it here half pulled apart and I'll come back later 🤔
And that would be the end of the drill
Good job mate for sticking with it and getting it done 👍
@@tomnewell5529 I now exactly what you mean, I pulled a pallet jack pump apart and then waited a couple of weeks for the new seals so I had no idea how the valving went back together. Luckily I filmed the disassembly so I was able to “get er fixed”😂😂
Here's a small tip for free to get that chuck off in 30 seconds. Get a 10 mil Hex Key and put the long side in the chuck and tighten it as far as you can, tap down on the short end rotating it after every tap and the whole shaft and Chuck will come out of the drill with no damage to the drill or chuck. The hammer setting, you don't have to take the drill apart to rectify it. All you have to do is turn the selector to hammer drill and a good tap with a soft hammer on the end of the fully opened Chuck. Also, before assembly, inject some CV joint grease into the cavity with a large syringe.
Thanks for commenting. Have you actually done it on a DeWalt drill that does not have a left hand retaining screw in the bottom of the chuck?
@@scroungasworkshop4663 Yes
@@scroungasworkshop4663 works on both the only difference is the retaining screw method they use on the older DeWalt drills is when you remove the retainer screw the thread is not factory tightened to such a high torque. The newer models just use a dry thread and torqued to a high spec so it is the friction that retains them, so when the thread is released the thread is quite loose so there is no real magic. Shaft itself is only held in by a small amount of friction from one bearing and part of the hammer drill mechanism. DeWalt could easily sell the chuck and the shaft fitted together and it would only be a five minute repair.
@@pdevonport7266 Ok, I just figured out what you were describing and I get what you mean. I’m assuming you have you actually tried it yourself because unless that toothed wheel is properly pressed onto the shoulder then the hammer will operate at all times whether it’s selected or not.
I’m not saying that you’re wrong I just want to know that you have actually done it. If so, then you are totally correct that it’s a much easier way to go and I’ll need to try it.
As for getting the chuck off the shaft, it’s every man for himself.😂😂😂
Cheers and thanks, Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 yes turn to hammer setting and the second wheel will support the front wheel, open the chuck fully and I hit it with a wooden mallet.
Hi, I'm from Argentina. Your video save my drill, but I have a question, how do you apply the necessary torque to the chuck the last time? Can you explain to me how to firmly tighten the shaft in order to apply the necessary torque? Have you used some adhesive? Sorry for the bad wording, my English is not good. Thanks a lot. 👍
Hola Emmanuel, tu inglés es muy bueno, probablemente mejor que mi español. No hay par establecido para el mandril. Usé Loctite 262 y simplemente apreté el mandril lo más fuerte que pude poniendo el taladro a baja velocidad y seleccionando marcha atrás. Luego sostuve el portabrocas en la mano y apreté el gatillo. Al final del video también mencioné que en el futuro reemplazaría el loctite 262 con un pegamento epoxi de dos partes solo para estar doblemente seguro de que el mandril no se deshará. El pegamento epoxi se descompone bajo calor extremo como el oxiaceteleno. Espero que esto responda a sus preguntas y muchas gracias por sus amables comentarios. Todo lo mejor con tu taladro mi amigo. Saludos Estuardo. 🇦🇺
Hi Emmanuel, your English is very good, probably better than my Spanish. There is no set torque for the chuck. I used Loctite 262 and just tightened the chuck as tightly as I could by putting the drill in low speed and selecting reverse. Then I held the chuck in my hand and squeezed the trigger. At the end of the video I also mentioned that in future I would replace the loctite 262 with a two part epoxy glue just to be doubley sure the chuck wont undo. Epoxy glue breaks down under extreme heat like the oxy accetelene. I hope this answers your questions and thanks so much for your kind comments. All the best with your drill my friend. Cheers Stuart. 🇦🇺
If you put the drill in hammer mode before taking it apart and knocking the chuck and harbour out would that have prevented it getting stuck in hammer mode ?
Hi Lee, I have no idea. Sorry.
262 threadlocker? It WILL take heat to take apart. Would blue 242 be strong enough?
I don’t know but if that’s what you have then that’s what I would use. The only time you’re going to have a problem with the chuck loosening is using the drill in reverse. I can’t imagine what someone would be doing with the drill in reverse hard enough to make the chuck come undone as anything like that I use my impact gun. I hope this helps.
Hey bub!! Subbed!! Stay safe.
New friend here!
🙏🤘Brad
Thanks Brad, much appreciated. 👍👍👍
I bought a new chuck for my 996 assuming it came off with a hex screw. Looks like I’ll be buying a new drill instead. 😂😭
Hi Stuart
Thanks for the the show
I was in Sydney for 20 years now I'm in France with my DeWalt DCD796 XE with a broken chuck
Could you please help me to find the correct part number chuck with a key for this drill
Being not far away from England I might have a chance.
On my side I still try my luck
Thank Mate
DomIJ
Hi Eva, please check the video again as I can’t remember the exact thread used to secure the chuck to the drill but I know I mentioned it in the video. Also, I didn’t use a genuine DeWalt chuck, I purchased a generic chuck from eBay with the for mentioned threads. This will give you a large number of chucks to choose from. I really hope this may help. Cheers, Stuart.
Tuebe que rebanar todo el chok quirugicamente cas casi hasta llegar a la rosca para debilitarla, el problema es que el eje resorteea y evita el afloje cuando estan demasiado apretado
Thanks and good luck.
This is much more difficult to do on the 796.. They changed the hammer mode housing.. I had to freeze the shaft before the hammer sprog would fit back on it.. Also the lid of the silver housing that contains the other half of the hammer sprog actually needs to go onto the shaft before you reassemble it.. If you forget to do that and install the hammer sprog back on shaft.. the sprog itself wont fit through the hole in the very front of the silver housing.. Ask me how I know ???..Lol
It’s already difficult on the 996 but I’m glad you got yours fixed. I hope the video was still useful for you. Thanks for commenting. 👍
Que presión tiene
Where did the roller bearing go 😊
Which roller bearing 😆
When the yank cordless stuff first came here to Australia it was not to badly priced, although I was surprised to see it was brushed motors, it went okay. When they finally moved to brushless motors and doubled their price I stopped buying their products. My first Milwaukee drill went the same way your drill did, and they would not fix it under warranty, "normal wear" and yes, it was considered throw away, could not buy the parts. My second one is starting to show similar symptoms, so probably not long before I bin that as well. I had also flirted with their corded power tools as well, having both Milwaukee and DeWalt grinders, not very impressed with either the build quality or performance. I have gone back to good old reliable Makita for all my power tools. In my opinion the yank tools are overpriced and poorly built.
Hi Jack, I have had a good run with my DeWalt gear but if this keeps up I’ll be changing back to Makita, which I originally started with, as well.
Second comment here, yeah, how about the 'quick chuck'? A lot of brands are going that route and I don't like it.
Sorry Travis, I don’t know anything about the quick chuck but I’ll look it up. Thanks 👍👍
Easier to just pry the chuck out. Saw a video, many tried it and suceeded👍
Sounds interesting, can you post a link so I can see how that’s done? Thanks.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 czcams.com/video/yxqYUwXHkHk/video.html
@@chucknorris2952 Thanks Chuck, certainly looks a lot easier. Wondering how many have problems with the hammer staying on. I only read one comment about that. Just for reference, I repaired one recently and I had it done in 30 mins. It looks more complicated and seems to take a long time on my video but I’m trying to explain what I’m doing. When you know what you’re doing its a relativity quick job. Thanks for the link. Cheers Stuart.
@@scroungasworkshop4663 yeah, had mine open yesterday. The hard part was putting back the gears, it fell into 1000 pieces. Twisted off the chuck without heat. I put a t55 torx in the chuck and twisted with 2 ajustable wrences. The other part was into another wrench, that was stuck in a vice.
Learned that from another video
Also, if a a bit gets stuck in the chuck, you can tap the three pins (that hold the bit) inwards into rhe machine with a small hammer, it usually does the trick.
Did it on several of my boss dewalts. Worked fine afterwards.
The chucks on dewalt is really the weak spots on these machines, (in addition to the batteries die of a little rain.)
They can be opened and cells replaced. Need a spotwelder, though. (They are cheap on ebay, considered buying one)
The bad cells often has miscoloration or rust, and lower voltage than the other cells
Sorry for bad english, its not my native language
@@chucknorris2952 Your English is fine and thanks for the information. Cheers Stuart. 👍👍👍
Me arrepiento de haber comprado ese pinche taladro tan difícil de cambiar el mandril
Cual es el calle
This is the reason I didn't buy this model. I also change them to Rohm chucks as the Dewalt ones are 💩
👍👍👍
I cut mine off with a cutoff wheel, took about 5min and my new chuck screwed right on
Hi Randy, I’m not sure quite how you managed that but if it worked I’m interested to find out how as it might save a lot of mucking about.
Let me know. Thanks Stuart.
So did I. The problem was I didnt have an intense enough source of heat so everything was heating up together.
So I cut off the outer shell of the chuck allowing me to get a proper grip on the chuck body then with a lot of force it came apart.
Muchas veces ni calentando lo aflojas,
What a nightmare repair! They clearly expect it to be thrown out and not repaired. Shameful!
It certainly seems that way. With my chuck it was working just fine and out of the blue it jammed so I either wait weeks for it to be repaired or buy a new drill. Not good. Thanks
Cut it off with cut off tool
Very high difficulty, to replace only the spindle of the DCD996 DeWalt you have to disassemble the whole drill, this is really absurd. In other brands of drills it is sufficient to unscrew the screw located in the lower part of the spindle. Perhaps it is preferable to buy a new one.
Very high difficulty, to replace only the spindle of the DCD996 DeWalt you have to disassemble the whole drill, this is really absurd. In other brands of drills it is sufficient to open the chuck and unscrew the screw located on the inside of the chuck. However, the guy in the video who took the drill apart had to put the proper grease in all the gears, which he didn't. Instead of letting inexperienced people get their hands, it is preferable to buy another new drill.
Probably with the new law (right to repair) this design will be banned. I really don't see any advantage nor reason -except one only- why the chuck can not be removed with a left hand screw.
Thanks Attila, we can only hope. 👍👍👍