DIY Ham radio antenna tower installation supports
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- čas přidán 3. 01. 2019
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01-03-18. In the ongoing process of setting up a new ham radio station on our Illinois homestead, this step is arguably the most important in my particular case. Join me as I take you through the steps of how I installed 3 home made, fabricated, steel tubing antenna tower supports. My tower has a hinge plate on it, which normally requires either support brackets or guy wires for additional support to the antenna tower, due to the weakened area where the hinge plate connect. So, instead of guy wires, or brackets that attach to our home I decided to make these base brackets to support the tower. The concrete pad that I poured was extra large, which came in handy for this project. The only tools needed for this is a decent drill, impact driver and some wrenches for the bolts. Please like this video and subscribe to help us grow our channel, thank you. Here is some additional information:
T SHIRTS, CUSTOM KAPPER OUTDOORS OUTDOOR CALLS, SLATE CALLS, BOX CALLS, DIAPHRAGM CALLS AND MORE: www.cataclysmcalls.com/kapper...
POURING THIS CONCRETE ANTENNA TOWER BASE: • DIY Antenna tower base...
DIY FABRICATING ANTENNA TOWER SUPPORTS FROM THIS VID:
• DIY fabricating steel ...
INSTALLING HINGE PLATE FOR THIS ANTENNA TOWER: • DIY Ham radio antenna ...
DIGGING HOLE AND PREP FOR CONCRETE BASE: • DIY Installing Ham Rad...
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Kapper Outdoors, living the dream, one acre at a time. - Jak na to + styl
Joe, using the impact drill will not help when running those masonry bits. You see, and impact drill, drives screws etc. with a ratcheting motion, when you're running a masonry bit you need a 'hammer' drill that hits down on the bit as it is turning, thereby chipping the concrete, much like a chisel will.
Another tip for you, have a small source of compressed air with you to blow the dust out of the hole. The drill cuttings ( dust ) will stall the screw much like brakes on your truck. Once the hole is drilled to the desired depth, don't run the bit down again, each time you do you will make the hole diameter wider, giving less for the screw to grip on to.
Such a nice place and you pour concrete in such a mess. Why not build a form and make it look halfway decent.
Ditto. I am bewildered why the concrete workmanship and finish is so poor!
Thanks for sharing Kapper...looks good😊
I’d love to see your radio set up when your done and especially how you run the coax ! Great channel!!
Thank you it's going to be a little bit of learning as I go but it should be an awesome station !
It's coming along nicely. Take your time and it should last a long time.
I have the same tower . I put nuts on first then the base plate then nuts on top . So I could level it with a wrench .
that is how to do it. the nuts on the bottom will level the plate and also provide a torque distribution displacement through the base plate to the other two attachment to the concrete. that also allows you to get good "thread count" on the tightening nuts which form the other side of the load distribution
the solutions "here" are unique the problem is that the "supports" try and transfer the torque load to the concrete through the "concrete screws" and my guess is that they are the weak point (either that or the attachment to the tower is) . to be really safe with this arraignment one is going to need guy wires in heavy concrete. if you want to go to free standing one is probably going to have to pour a new base using the mounting screws as the feedpoint WB5MZO
yeah thats how I did it too
Good effort Cap..... what you have accomplished is to move the flex point up to where your three braces are attached to the pipes. Additional bracing will be needed at two or three more flex points farther up, depending on the total height of the antenna. The additional bracing will have to be in the form of "guy-lines". However, the next one up could be attached to your house. Expect to get a lot of comments on this one. Everyone is an expert on this kind of stuff. (including me.... lol)
That's exactly what I was thinking. I know he grabbed the tower and shook it above the new supports but that means nothing really. What you are supporting against is shaking at the TOP of the tower.. aka when high winds start pushing against the antennas and tower. Even though many of us have erected Rohn 25G towers over the years it is easy to be an armchair engineer. The last thing anyone wants is to be sitting in the house during high winds or an ice storm worrying if the tower is going to fall on the house. I encourage anyone installing one of these towers to go to the Rohn website and download the 25G installation guide. It gives all the DO's and DON'Ts. If you follow their guidelines your tower will last for many many years.
No, I'm not adding any guy wires. This is a self supporting antenna, and now that the base is firmly supported, it should be just fine.
I'm not a ham operator and have never erected a tower and antenna, so I should be only asking questions..... Question... what is the difference between a non-supporting tower and a supported-tower? In other words, one that requires guy lines and one that doesn't?
@@marvco64 That is correct. Most towers can be erected as self-supporting or guyed. For a given tower the maximum safe height is usually much less when erected as self-supporting. All towers will have a height rating based on maximum square-feet of wind load at a given wind speed. All antennas will have a wind load Sq. Ft. rating. A Rohn 25G tower like Kapper is using has a fairly small wind load rating when erected as self-supporting at the height he is dealing with. Rohn and other tower manufacturers publish free installation guideline manuals on their websites. Tower erection isn't something to be taken lightly. Follow all the rules and the tower will last a long time and withstand a lot of foul weather. Take shortcuts and well... you can end up with a pile of tangled steel on the ground.
@@kapperoutdoors It's only a self supported tower when erected according to Rohn's specifications for 25G as self-supported. You tower appears to be higher than what they list for a self-supported 25G. It also has a very low wind load square foot at that height. There's no need for keyboard commandos on this one. Rohn is very specific in the 25G installation guide. Those extra supports you added at the bottom do NOTHING for the sections of tower that are above them. No one is trying to bust your chops Kapper. We just don't want to see that baby come down on your house the first time you have high winds or an ice storm.
Nice job on the install of support brackets! The tower will be very rigid!
Thank you, yes, I believe it will do the job!
That's a rather unique finish texture on that slab.
Mighty fine.
And the edges are so straight.
I know it turned out perfect..
Those 3 supporting legs at the base of the tower are a nice idea!!
Unfortunately they will do NOTHING in way of supporting the tower in a very strong wind IF the tower fails, especially the "concrete screws" he is using! NOT to mention the pivot points of the hinge's on the tower AND anchored to the concrete!
Wind force and or torque is always misunderstood and usually underrated by new hams and others who underestimate the wind force and load of antennas and towers.
AND its very easy to calculate with math formulas available on tower and antenna sites to gain the correct knowledge for a certain installation.
The BLUE concrete screws he is using are for support only on walls for hanging pipe, etc. and NOT meant for anchors in this type installation. Just Drill the concrete and install the correct anchors if you think you need this protection (which is actually useless in this situation) BUT better than he has now.
I use these BLUE screws all the time when working in certain "hanging pipe situations" and that is what they are made for.
I hope it does not fail and not wishing him bad luck, just stating a fact from a technical POV, 73 de KD6SBR
If this stays up after the first wind storm it will be miraculous .
It has survived many wind storms already
My most basic of antenna setup is nothing but 254 centimeter vertical dipole made out of old extension cable. But it is not for transmitting. It is for an all band, all mode, scanner I have.
Nice job!
I remember before the Internet and when long distance calling actually cost you money, we used to talk on the linear radio. I live in Pennsylvania in was talking to somebody in Washington State. We used to exchange postcards when that happened. I'm not sure it was even legal haha
@Bill Claussen hahaha
I think you mean CB and using a linear amplifier to boost the power. My uncle had one, I believe it was 100 watts. Yes, those were illegal. Ham radio operators can legally use amplifiers. The rules used to be 1000 watts maximum on the input (plate E x I) but later they changed the rules to 1500 watts PEP. The ones used for SSB are also of the "linear type". There are other classes of amplifiers than can be used for CW (code) but most commercial amplifiers are linear. "Linear" just means the graph curve for input power vs. output power is a straight diagonal line (i.e. linear).
LOL you are dating yourself now! Yep, I've had a lot of huge long distance bills over the years!!
@Bill Claussen Definitely those were some good times
@@eosjoe565 Correct
Let's give it a whirl with the antenna, Joe.
The 2 meter works great but the other experiment did not do well! I've been silent for awhile now, but in winter I may get back on the air. Thanks
Dam you Kap, now I’m gonna look into radio stuff. Boys need toys!
ha ha, that is awesome! I enjoy corrupting as many guys as I can with big boy toys! LOL
Guy wires going from the upper antenna to the edge of the roof would work without being in the yard, if you can use three guy wires. Ice and wind can be trouble.
I'm pretty sure this will work fine. The tower itself (which is self supporting) flexes. And the base, when tightened is non movable, just like if it were in concrete. I guess only time will tell, but in talking to many hams, there are towers out there with hinge plates alone, no guys wires, that have been up for decades.. We'll find out in the first big wind storm!
Why did not you use U-type clamps?
I bet this works like sailboat masts---you wouldn't want the coax cable too loose so it "drums" against the tower on a windy day / night.
on sailboats, if your sleeping on board, you "tie off" the halyards so they don't hit the mast and keep you awake all night !
on that square channel, I wonder whats better--leaving it open, or welding a cap on top and bottom to keep water out of it ?
I think it will be ok leaving it open. By the time it were to rust to a point it weakens the steel, my grand kids (don't have any yet) will be grandparents! :)
Lookin good there 🤔😊 followin this with interest as I have no knowledge o ham radio an antenna s at all 🤔
awesome, thanks for following along!
When using concrete anchors you have to use a vacuum cleaner to suck the dust out of the hole. That prevents the issue you were having. How many feet of tower do you have above the attachment point on the new supports?
I think the tower will be around 48' total or so, and the brackets are nearly 4' up on the tower. Plus I'll add a cheater pole up another 10 feet, then antenna's up there. Although even though a 'self supported' tower, I don't ever plan on climbing it!!! :)
@@kapperoutdoors Climbing it sure would be a bad idea. Which way does the wind blow? The concrete anchors may not hold much.
I noticed at about @1:00 the shot of the snow geese, they are flying pretty high. Here in the Denver Metro area, we have a butt load of geese too, but they don't seem to fly that high. Not sure what ya'lls altitude is there but here it is about 5280 feet so that might be why ours only seem to fly between 500 and maybe 1000 feet. Our geese crap all over the place, you can't even enjoy going to a park without stepping goose crap.
Well it sounds like you might be describing Canada Geese? These were snow geese, and they often fly much higher. That's my guess. I've never seen snow geese around metro areas with people close by, as I think they are more shy than Canadians... ?
@@kapperoutdoors I think you are right about these being Canada Geese. The biggest problem is they are here the year round, they don't seem to migrate. And they don't seem to be afraid of humans or cars, they will walk around and walk out into traffic and expect you to stop for them to cross the road.
I'm guessing the support mount to the house will be added after the antenna(s) and wiring are done?
To counter any swaying (higher up), I suggest an "A" frame shaped support (two connections to house, one to the antenna).
I am not adding any more supports to this antenna. It should be fine this way. It is a self supporting tower.
You also don't want to damage the house.
That would make it stronger with out much work. It would only mean climbing a ladder up to unhook the tower now and again. Or a latch they could be unhooked with a cord from below.
@@chetthejet3896 I like the latch idea (gate latch?)
a few half sheets of Particle board should work well for that mud.
Good idea. I hope to do some work on it maybe today. There is this strange sky outside... Kind of blue... Looks like this pretty, bright light is coming up over the horizon... Not exactly sure what it is!!!!
You couldnt find U bolts to go around the tower legs?
hi my friend, you really need a hammer drill for concrete
Nice work, you made it work!
Yep and it is still standing after many near tornado wind storms! Thank you
@@kapperoutdoors so much for any nay sayers
Hey mate, I like your videos and admire your work ethic and enthusiasm for your project but that concrete was as rough as guts. But moreover, those tripod braces and the way you connected as shoddy and next to useless. For example, other than being the completely wrong fastener for the job, at least one of those blue concrete fasteners hit bottom before it had been driven fully home and when you eventually forced it to go down you had destroyed the thread in the hole; so essentially that fastener was just sitting loose in the hole.
use a hammer drill with the bit at least, if not a rotary hammer... also, use a bit longer than your screw, and a vacuum cleaner to suck out the hole.. simple items, but much more pro process
Dont you be accidentally calling space aliens with that setup and get yourself abducted. lol
Dang man.... Buts that's why I have lots of ammo too :)
Joe, my tower has the heavy triangles running horizontal. How much do the antennas weigh.
I figured the daring Kapper would use a pulley Block and lift and lower with Megaton. But not to good on grass.
The towers are not that heavy, but I haven't decided yet how we're going to hoist it... We'll confer with several minds to come up with (hopefully) the best plan!
Is this for real? I have never seen a Rohn 25 tower installed quite like this.
Been up several years and survived many wind storms and tornado warnings thus far
Wow, if this is still standing i would be surprised.
First the 3 braces are nice, but use U bolts on top brackets.
don't use dang those cheap door hinges as the will definitely wear out
Don't use tapcons as they are not designed for that. Need wedge bolts.
Also when adding sections of tower dont use carriage bolts. Use proper bolts and nut go on inside of tower legs and not the out side.
Actually yes it is still standing after 3 or 4 years and many hefty wind storms. I had little doubt..
Why not just run guy wires? And you never mentioned how tall your tower is. Also you might want to install a ground rod and properly ground your tower for when lightning strikes.
I will have 3 ground rods, I am not done yet. I'm hoping to not run guy wires, as they'd be in the way around the house. I think these 4' supports will help immensely, but I guess we'll see once I get it set up. I think it is about 46' or so, and then starting at these supports, it should be around 42 above the supports. It is only 2' above the 40' recommend height to be fully self supporting, and I'm thinking they erred way on the conservative side when they made the specs... We'll see!
Looking good so far Kapper, K4GEO - I'll be up to IL. end of April or so. Give me a freq. of a repeater that you hang out on and I'll give you a shout.
Shoot me an email at kapper@kapperoutdoors.com and we'll give it a try.
Iron Mike......thumbs up on, vertical = plumb.......horizontal = level......hehehe
ha ha ha :)
Sorry, I know you put a lot of work into this project. But, those braces are absolutely worthless in this tower setup. This is a serious accident waiting to happen. You need guy wires and a minimum of 4 foot earth screw anchors to hold that Rohn 25 tower from falling. I've been installing towers for over 40 years and this setup is a safety nightmare.
Maybe so, but it has withstood many serious windstorms, and is still holding strong.
@@kapperoutdoorsfor now ,if installed correctly wouldn't need all that mess
water ice bolts. good luck... only saving grace here is its sticks on top no yagi.
Handled 50+mph winds many times so far. Thanks
Hey mate, I like your videos and admire your work ethic and enthusiasm for your project but that concrete was as rough as guts. But moreover, those tripod braces and the way you connected them is beyond shoddy and next to useless. For example, other than being the completely wrong fastener for the job, at least one of those blue concrete fasteners hit bottom before it had been driven fully home and when you eventually forced it to go down you had destroyed the thread in the hole; so essentially that fastener was just sitting loose in the hole.
Well it is 3 years later and it has survived many wicked wind storms, so I'd say my theory was sound, thank you.
Those three support bars are doing nothing for stability. Looks cool though.
Well it's several years later and it has withstood several 40, 50 and more mph wind storms and it is still standing.
not talking anymore did not get a t .shirt...lolllll
lol, c'mon you can still order one!
Good Grief Charlie Brown 🙄
On a Sad Note SUPER DAVE DIED!
That looks really good Joe great idea are you going to make my brackets as well LOL
I sure can Mike... Just as long as you are here to hoist this tower up!!! lol