2024 Ford Ranger Raptor first OIL CHANGE! 3.0L Twin Turbo 1,300 miles.
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- Doing my break in oil change today... figured i would share my struggles with all of you so if you ever feel like you are having a hard time you can come back here and watch me spill oil all over the place and burn my hand and stuff. Cheers.
All you need is a 15mm wrench and a 1-1/16" socket to get the skid plate off and the oil filter canister off. Drail plug is just hand tight, easy peasy. Cheers.
Thanks for your videos! Really helping us future Raptor owners!
Happy to help! Glad they are getting views!
Sincerely appreciate you sharing your journey bro....Educational and entertaining
Thanks... i am enjoying the comments and conversations i have been having with everyone here on youtube too... i have learned a LOT from everyone
Awesome video. I tried looking for something like this on yt before and got nothing so this really helps. And I had only heard about the oil prime feature but didn’t know how to do it or other times when it should be used so thank you very much.
I had never even heard of the oil prime feature until someone else commented on one of my previous videos and i googled it... very interesting and i cant believe i never did that in my previous vehicles... wondering how much damage i may have been doing to them. Glad the video was useful / helpful for you.
Here’s another tip. Have a large piece of cardboard to lay on for when working under your vehicle. It makes it much easier to slide under and out. It keeps you cleaner and it would have caught that oil that is staining your driveway.
Hey, I was going to say that. Great minds think alike 😊
that is brilliant... not sure why that didn't occur to me but no one ever accused me of being super smart haha. i'll be doing a better drive cleaning my driveway this weekend.
You're just as lucky as me when changing the oil... always get a bunch on the floor! 🤪🤣
Haha, yeah… I had a little bit of an issue and of course I was videoing it haha. Oh well, I could have edited it out but whatever, we all goof up sometimes, am I right?
Just did my first at 3k. Thanks for the preview. I used a big sheet of aluminum foil to keep the oil off the cross member and wire harness near the drain plug.
That is a great idea, I think I’ll do that next time as well in addition to throwing down a huge piece of cardboard so I don’t make a mess of the driveway. Cheers
Thanks for the video! Picking my Ranger Raptor up today here in the UK!
Right on... hope you enjoy it! it's such an awesome truck and so much fun. Cheers!
Thanks for another nice video re: your beautiful R/R. These are turning out to be some awesome videos. Nice job! Keep having fun…..
Thanks, i appreciate it!
Nice to see its easy to change the oil. It would be great if Fumoto valve would make a drain plug replacement for the ranger raptor. It would make draining oil even easier.
for sure... i'll be looking for an entire replacement aluminum oil pan in the future and will likely also get an oil extractor so i dont have to mess with drain plugs at all.
Ronin Factory makes a drain plug that makes draining easier without needed to replace the o-rings
@@stevecha3612that ronin factory drain plug looks seems great. Thanks for the info.
Not as easy to change as my Taco but works the same. Nice truck! I do like the Ranger Raptors great performance form a truck. Would probably driving one if they came out a bit sooner!
I always made a mess when I was changing the oil filter in my 04 taco… it had a weird housing that made it leak down the front of the engine. I was probably doing something wrong but it was a little bit messy every time
Love the priming feature. It's a freakin uber luber.
well that is totally going to have to be the official name for this feature... UBER LUPER!!!
I used my first free oil change for my Colorado Trail Boss at 1800 miles, I payed it off 3 months ago, ive owned it for a year have 3100 miles, but on a new Colorado theirs a cross member lined up with oil plug, I told them I will be getting underneath it and they better wipe everything off down their or I’ll be bringing back! I also do a video walk around with them cause I don’t want a scratch or ding on it! They know I’m extremely picky on my vehicles, my 02 Silverado I bought new is still like new , not one ding or scratch on it, their is not one spec of rust on it either, the stickers are still on the frame!
that is fantastic... gotta take care of the things we love for sure. i am hoping to keep this truck for the long haul and i want to keep it clean but also have a lot of fun with it... it is my daily driver so i can accept some normal wear but it wont be for lack of trying to keep it like new!
Just an FYI, holding the gas down during key on has always shut fuel off. Does it in my 2003 cobra and that's also how you fix a flooded engine to clear it. Crank it with the Gas down so it doesn't try adding more fuel and pushed the fuel out of the chamber
Good to know. Thanks for the info
Starting the engine like that is called Clear Flood Mode. There's a lot of debate on whether it does any good after an oil change, but it surely doesn't hurt. Thanks for all the videos. Hoping to have an RR in my driveway in a couple months.
thanks for the info about the 'clear flood' mode, i didn't realize it was for that instead of the oil priming... good to know.
We got service center so I just bring it there for everything and we service every 5K KM and today I drove to get a Roller shutter for it cause I don’t want the bed dirty and it’s great for road trips the Lexus LX570 we use more for town but we might use it next time if we are staying longer
right on... i think most of my future oil changes will be done at the dealer but i wanted to get a sample of the oil this time.
@@flaberdoopin ohhhh
He's right about not over-tightening the filter cap as well as the drain plug. Doing so will cause damage possible on the next change or make it almost impossible to remove.
right on... gotta be careful with these things... tight tighter loose... gotta avoid that
I use that same procedure. This at least for me was first known as a way to quiet down the cam phasers on cold start. Been using this on my 3.5 EB.
interesting... i didn't notice any noise changes before or after oil change, but i'm not a mechanic so i probably just missed it.
I was actually bit worried seeing how dark my oil was after few thousand kms, but by the look of it it was exact same colour like yours. so seems normal.
yeah, i think this is pretty much par for the course with turbo charged cars... it works the oil much harder. i have read a lot of forums that recommend oil changes every 5K miles (8K km) on these ecoboost engines (all of the ecoboosts, the forums were specifically talking about the 3.5 in the F-150s). I will be doing full synthetic every 5K in my truck
Did you coat the o-rings with oil? Another thing to help with turbo longevity. Let the engine warm up a little before really spooling them up. Allow them to cool a little if you been running them hard. Like when you pull off the interstate for a rest area or gas and just shut it down. Looks like you live in a development so should be easy. Thanks for the videos.
i sure did... i had tons of oil on my hands from when i spilled all over the place so that was more than enough to get a nice coat on the o-rings. And i do cool the turbos generally at idle or nice easy slow driving at 30-45 mph before shutting down!
My truck has 1800km on it. If im not mistaken they told me the first service is after 6 monthes or 10000km's. I will have to double check tomorrow
That is the ford recommended service interval. I just did my oil change early to swap to full synthetic and I wanted to get an oil sample sent to blackstone laboratory to get it analyzed
Tip from an old guy mechanic. Get a pad to kneel on. And wear freaking shoes.
i wear shoes all day... i spend the last 3 years in hawaii where slippers where KING! if it's 80 degrees outside i'm gonna rock boardshorts and flipflops until my wife tells me not to haha. And i do have a knee pad, not sure why i didn't use it for this, it didn't occur to me
You should look into using the Ronin Factory easy oil drain plug. No mess and dead simple to install.
Interesting, does it replace the plug or entire pan?
Less talkie more workie Tommy Callahan
Hahaha, I like to ramble for sure, I can’t really help it
18:17 Warning! The Flood Mode (holding the gas pedal to the floor and pressing the push-button ignition) doesn't work on the 22' Maverick with the hood up. All doors have to be closed and probably tail gate closed otherwise the engine will start with the gas pedal to the floor right after an oil change. Obviously revving to 5,000 RPM right away sucked.
So again, Flood Mode does work with the push-button ignition but only with everything closed. I found it out the hard way 😄
Holy crap! That is insane!
Oil and the filter look still in good condition.
Yes it does! I’m sure it could have gone another 4k easy. I wanted to switch to full synthetic and I am also curious what blackstone will say.
Good to know about the cycling for these push buttons vehicles
it was new to me and you got to experience it for the first time with me... i was hoping it worked as advertised and i wasn't going to cold start the car with my foot down and send it to redline without oil in the filter haha. Cheers
Get an oil extractor and you don't need to change the drain plug near as often, or get under the vehicle at all. It's what they use in almost every German dealership and well since you now have a German designed engine in your American vehicle, you might benefit.
Is that basically a siphon that goes down the dipstick tube?
@@flaberdoopin yep exactly, I personally use a Schwaben. There are tons of different ones out there. At least your wife won't be able to yell at you for oil spots on the driveway. Saves you a ton of time.
i am 100% onboard with this... gonna order one now, i can use it on all my stuff like lawn mower, pressure washer and both vehicles. Thanks for the recommendation
I've got one. I've used it but I'm not convinced it gets all the oil out. The last little bit of oil has the most contaminants. Only way to know if it gets all of it out is to use it and then remove the drain plug and see if there's still oil coming out.
I have talked to mechanics about this. Most companies stopped extraction method due to all the contaminants and shavings being left on the bottom of the pan. Extractions should only be done if you need a quick job and should only be done every 3-4th change to make sure you get it all out.
The filter looks to be the same width as the largest part of the old one but looked like the length might be a little shorter.
it seemed to fit perfectly... someone else commented that the first one was a break in filter and this is the long term filter... never heard of that but this is what the dealer gave me and what i have seen in oil change videos for the Bronco Raptor with the same engine.
This vehicle was apparently not designed by Ford USA. The oil filter location and rear diff style say this is some Asian style vehicle.
Interesting... i dont know enough about the global market to gather this but i will have to get smarter on it now. cheers.
Doing research as I consider swapping out my Gladiator for something else. This video was helpful.
Did you get your lab reports from Blackstone yet?
I've done one on every oil change on the Jeep, because it's a Jeep. 😐
I did get the results and it was high on copper and silicone particulates but to be expected on a brand new break in oil change, all other levels were in tolerance and there was zero fuel or coolant in the oil. The gladiator was a cool looking and capable truck when I had it but it wasn’t all that comfortable to drive and it was super noisy, but taking the roof and doors off was pretty great in Hawaii
So are you doing your own oil change so you can do the oil analysis? 87 dollars is what I pay for an oil change in my F-150 Ecoboost (3.5) and someone else does it haha.
I did this oil change on my own because i wanted to grab a sample... i probably could have given the tech a jar and gotten some oil from them when they did the change but i have never asked for that before so i wasn't sure... and some other guys wanted a video of an oil change so i did it at home. I think it would have been around 75 at the dealer, but they would have only used synthetic blend, not full synthetic, that would have been a little over 100... future oil changes will probably be done at the dealer to avoid the mess i made this time.
Hotter oil is best to drain out as much as possible so easily and fast. Never should change it cold. Yes always caution about hot oil rushing out when pulling the plug. A little jar to catch a sample when it's draining is best.
good to know... the jar did work well and it sure did come out fast... i knew not to change it cold, usually i wait 20-30 min after shut down to change it but this wasn't too bad.
Great video, I plan on changing my own oil when the RR I ordered comes in. I'm wondering if I use an oil extractor instead of getting underneath the truck and draining it, do I still need to replace the drain plug every so often? Because if so there's not any point in buying an oil extractor
I think you could leave it for a year or two but I have heard they start to seep after a bit, that is why they suggest replacing every 2-3 oil changes
I'm surprised the dealer doesn't do first oil change.. we get them for first 1000-1500k
i think they said they would cover the first 2 so i'll take it to them at 5,000 miles. i did the first on my own so i could get a sample to send off for analysis.
Brother, did you get the results from your oil change, just curious what they found in the oil. thank you so much for your time. would you recommend that I should change mine earlier than 1300 miles?
I should have the results in a week or two, apparently it isn’t a super quick turnaround. As soon as I see the results I’ll post a video and let you know if it was worth changing or if it was way premature. I wanted to make the switch to full synthetic so it was worth it for me personally
Not trying to be smart or anything but just wondering why you are changing the oil on a brand new truck with only 1300 miles on it? I'm seriously curious about this
I wanted to swap from the synthetic blend to full synthetic as early as possible and the 1,000 mile mark kind of blew past me before i had a chance to get to the dealership to buy the motorcraft oil and filter. I also want to send a sample off to blackstone for analysis just to see if they see anything i should be worried about. I think this is a personal thing that is not required but i like the piece of mind knowing that any break in metal shavings are flushed out and i have full synthetic in it now.
He should have left the puddles of oil and dropped dirt/cat litter on the spill instead of wiping prior.
i think you are right... i realized this when i was doing the cat litter at the end, would have been better if i didn't wipe it around and make a bigger spot haha. but from now on i'll be putting cardboard down in a big area to avoid this mess.
Love your videos man! whats your opinion on the skid plates? I don’t know if its the camera angle or lack of seeing the truck in person but they seem kinda small and thin around the fuel tank
The front bash plate is substantial, i think it will do its job. the Oil pan and front plate is kinda small but it seems strong... it is just a chunk of steel so i think it will hold against a tree stump or something but a pointy rock will bend or go through it with enough weight on it. the gas tank is not protected at all, it just has a plastic tub under it. so that is a bummer. I am going to end up getting a full set of skidplates when the aftermarket scene catches up here in the US.
@@flaberdoopin I just thought it was kinda funny the offroad spec doesn’t have a full skid plate 😂 cheers! Im going to buy one later this year. Thanks for your awesome videos 🍪
it is a bit sad the lack of skid plates but i guess they had baja in mind, not slow rock crawling. And the more skid plates you put on at the factory, the heavier the vehicle is and the worse mileage it will get... i'm sure the bean counters had something to do with it
thanks for the video. Is changing the yellow plastic drain plug necessary with an oil change , or can it be reused ?
You never want to re-use parts they tell you to replace everytime. Theres a reason. If you are to reuse it will be leaking oil from that plug in a short time. All new motors are exactly like this.
Parts department guy said you can use the plug for 2-3 oil changes. I plan to stick to a 5k oil change routine and I’ll change the drain plug on the 10k mark and every 10k past that
@@flaberdoopin , thanks man. Makes sense seeing as the seal is entirely a function of the o-ring and not the plastic drain plug.
It can be used, but they tend to seep slightly
Why did you pick 1300 miles to change the oil.
I am
Picking my R/R in Florida and driving it to San Diego. It’s about 1900 miles. Once I got in Cali I was going to change my oil.
I would have done it at 1000 but i was too lazy/busy to get the oil from the dealership. You will be totally find driving across country with the oil from the factory, i just did this so i could send an early sample to Blackstone for analysis. Id be willing to say that more than half the people that buy these trucks dont do the first oil change until the truck tells them to at the 5,000-10,000 mile mark. and when i drained the oil at 1300 after some hard driving, it still looked really good. It was probably a waste of $85 bucks but it makes for a good time playing around under the car, and i wanted to go from synthetic blend to full synthetic as early as possible. Long answer to a simple question. Cheers
Wow, your gonna put 1900 miles on it that quickly? Aren't you concerned about proper break-in?
the verbiage from the manual for breaking in is as follows
"You need to break in new tires for
approximately 300 mi (480 km). During
this time, your vehicle may exhibit some
unusual driving characteristics.
Avoid driving too fast during the first
1,000 mi (1,600 km). Vary your speed
frequently and change up through the
gears early. Do not labor the engine.
Do not tow during the first 1,000 mi
(1,600 km)."
nothing about max speed, as long as you are careful not to set cruise control at 80 and going for hours on end, it shouldn't be a big problem. just take lots of stops and keep from hammering it in sport mode... but even then, these motors are made to be revved up. A lot of mechanics and engine builders i have talked to say get on it and have fun with it... you will seat the piston rings and it wont hurt anything as long as the oil level is right... just food for thought
@@flaberdoopin It's the "vary your speed frequently" part that will not be done on a 1900 mile cross country. Slowing down from 70 to 65 then up to 75 is not what they mean.
I am confused.. why are you changing the oil so soon? 1300 miles is way to soon for a oil change.. and why get the old oil analyzed? Can you please explained
Oil analysis will tell you what's in your oil it can be helpful in predicting problems in the engine before they happen if your oil has a high level of aluminum material it might indicate something is wearing inside the engine
@@thejosh0100 yeah.. but the engine is brand new and onlty has 1,300 miles.. so I still don't see why he is getting this done when its still so new.
@@sevokevo I was told on some engines Run breaking oil AND not to change the oil till the first service. As it helps everything bed in and then they run full synthetic.
I wanted to swap from synthetic blend to full synthetic early... i would have done it at 1000 miles but i didn't have a chance to get to the dealer to get the oil until now. There are several thought camps on first oil change... some say wait, some say do it at 1000. both have valid points and i am just erroring on the side of caution... i plan to change it every 5,000 miles so it will be easy to keep track of when it is needed. Probably could have waited until the normal service interval, my wife was telling me i was crazy for doing it so early haha.
@@jamiebradshaw-mo1qs that is interesting about running the break-in oil for longer to ensure it helps bed in... i hadn't heard that but it sounds logical... either way, i'll change it again in 3700 miles at the 5,000 mile mark so i should be safe.
Been interested in the Truck, just been following your videos for fun and must have missed something, why did you do an oil change at just 1,300 miles? Seems awfully unnecessary?
I wanted to switch to full synthetic and I have been driving it hard so I wanted you to get a sample to send to blackstone laboratory for analysis
@@flaberdoopin Makes sense! thanks for clarifying.
right on, any time!
Any results from your oil sample?!
Looks like a break in filter., should not matter
Interesting. I’m curious to see what blackstone says about the oil after they analyze it
@@flaberdoopin : the FL 2062 was updated to FL 2062-A. The old non-A filter has the black plastic end caps. Your new updated A filter does not.
interesting... does the -A provide more flow of oil? it seems like it would
Is there a better aftermarket oil filter or is the oem one all good?
You seem to approach things with a very technical point of few. Question for you, in my area many stations have 91 octane gas with no ethanol that is marked for recreational vehicles, small engines and marine use only. Our trucks call for 91 octane fuel. Do you believe that recreational gas would have the correct additive package suited for our trucks? I believe that the reason for marking it as recreational gas is because there are very strong lobbying groups for farmers who press politicians to pass such laws.
i would prefer that fuel for my raptor. there is one gas station here near me that has ethanol free gas and that is what i keep in my 5 gallon jerry cans because it has a longer shelf life (and i add a little bit of sta-bil). If it weren't so much more expensive, i would go there to fill up every time. 20-30 years ago, all the gas was ethanol free around me. I would say that the 91 'for recreational use' gasoline is perfectly safe if not better for the motor, only thing i can think of is if ford tuned their engines with that little bit of ethanol in mind for its cooling ability, but i would really doubt that because it only says no more than 10% ethanol, nothing about a minimum amount.
@@flaberdoopin thanks for the reply, I have viewed all your Ranger Raptor videos and agree not having a paper copy is irritating. Doesn’t Ford know real men read in the bathroom not the garage. Anyways I solved that problem by reading the manual on my IPad where the owners manual is posted. I hate the way things are listed but it’s going to take some time to figure everything out on my RR.
agreed, i may just bite the bullet and print the thing out double sided and throw it in a binder or something for quicker reference. searching the PDF works and i have found that if you use the online version you can click on page numbers in the index and it will take you to that page in the PDF... so that is nice.
Thanks so much for this video. What part numbers did you order?
I will have to check the receipt when I get home. 8 quarts of full synthetic 5w-30, the filter and a new plug but I didn’t use the new plug on this change and one of the quarts of oil was a spare (it only takes 7)
Looks like the Filter is KU2Z-6731-A ($16.82), the oil is XO-5W30-Q1FS ($9.32 per quart) . The plug is KX6Z-6730-B ($13.12 but sold for 10.12 for some reason, good for 2-3 oil changes)
Thanks again. It’s very much appreciated. I’m going to have a go after watching your video.
Awesome!
9$ a quart synthetic blend is kinda nuts
I went with full synthetic, but 9 still seemed high even for that
Think I will pay to have oil change😅
Yeah, for the next one I probably will too
Amsoil 👌
I was a huge amsoil fan back in the 90's and early 2000's but have been told by some engine builders and other mechanics that they dont use it anymore for one reason or another... i'm sticking with Motorcraft for now, once warranty is up and i start upgrading the turbos and get a tune i'll look into other oils
@@flaberdoopin project farm has a good video on it 🤙 sweet ranger raptor
I'll check that out... maybe i'll go back to amsoil.
Plastic plugs on the oil pan. Geez. I’d love to know the reasoning behind this
Yeah, it is bonkers to use a plastic oil pan but a lot of manufacturers are doing it these days and if you use a plastic pan the plug has to be plastic too, you never want to screw a stronger/harder material into a softer material because if the screw/plug is over tightened, it will strip out the pan rather than the threads on the plug. One of the downsides to aluminum oil filter housings with steel oil filters. If you overtighten you are stripping the entire housing not the disposable filter
@@flaberdoopin I know my 2020 Raptor had the plastic and I was really scratching my head over that. Not sure if my current truck, 2022 Tremor F150 has it or not but I’d like to know the thought process here. Is it a weight or money saving issue or do the plastics last longer; or perhaps the plastic disperses heat better?
I’m guessing it is a cost savings and I know plastic is easier to mold… and no corrosion on plastic but I’d still prefer an aluminum oil pan.
You’re probably right. I was told that not all of them have the plastic pans and plugs.
Why do you need to replace the drain plug?
They say to replace it every 2-3 oil changes. I bought the new one but didn’t use it yet
that's expensive.. you could've done the oil change for $25-30. buy 5 qt jugs instead of 1 qts.
I haven’t been able to find motorcraft in a 5 quart jug… and I don’t know of too many places that sell 7 quarts of full synthetic and a filter for 25 dollars. Please let me know where I can get that!
@@flaberdoopin i just went and got my motorcraft from the local walmart(5qt jug). as far as $25 synthetic, maybe not motorcraft because that will depends on brand. I did see chevron havoline synthetic for $20 for 6 QTS container at walmart. Maybe i might switch to that whenever my factory warranty runs out.
First time ever doing an oil change?
first time with a weird plastic massive drain plug. i have been changing oil in my parents cars and my own cars since i was 13. by no means a pro, but it isn't all that hard. it is easier without trying to move cameras around.
@@flaberdoopin get a big rubber floor mat for underneath, this gives you padding and any oil spilled can easily be wiped up. When you crack the oil filter let it drain before taking it completely off. Get yourself some disposable nitrate gloves also. I’m sure the E3 at the auto hobby shop can teach ya.
right on... i would have done the oil change there but you cant film and some people asked in previous videos about a video for the oil change so i did it in my driveway... future oil changes will be done at Quantico to avoid the mess and to get it up on a lift to make life easier!
did you do the engine oil life reset in the car dashboard menu?
i did not, i have to get out there and do that... thanks for the reminder!
a plastic drain plug thingy--- that is pretty crappy
Hahaha, good choice for you but be sure to check whatever car you get because a lot of them have it now. BMW, VW, Audi, ford and many others use plastic oil pans and NO company will thread a metal drain plug into a plastic pan because you never put a harder ‘thingy’ as you called it, into a softer material because of the risk of stripping the threads. Cheers
@@flaberdoopin been steel pans and steels sump plugs for 200 years--- no need for this cheap shit now
@@thelonewolf666hahaha, 200 years of tradition unhindered by progress… I love your thought process
@@thelonewolf666 hahaha, 200 years of tradition unhindered by progress! I love the "but it is how it's always been" argument and i find myself using it a lot as well.
Why are you changing oil at 1500 miles? Really too early and a waste of resources
i wanted to get it switched from synthetic blend to full synthetic as early as possible. and i was curious to get it analysed to see if there were excessive metal shavings or any other issues that i would want to know about from the factory as well. This is the first vehicle i have done so early, figure it cant hurt anything (at least i think it cant hurt anything)
What has it got to do with you when he changes his oil
@@tyzon00800 I was just asking a question it really makes no sense to change your Oil this early
Rookie.
So you claim
Wow why would he film something so gay like a freaking oil change wtf how dumb are people 😮who dosnt know how to change oil ?
so by your logic, oil changes are gay, but then you say who doesn't know how to change oil like you are a pro... i'm not super smart but the logic tells me you must be a professional gay, and that is awesome if that is what you like... i'm not here to judge
@@flaberdoopin it's like showing someone how to change a tire gay is gay.
@@charles17508 so is reading the manual or having your dad show you how to do it also gay? what constitutes an act that is difficult enough to not be considered gay to learn on youtube? maybe bleeding the brakes? Is school gay? i guess we could have a lot of straight idiots running around and follow your guidelines of not trying to learn gay things... i'd rather learn stuff, and if that's gay, i guess it is what it is. I have looked up a lot of things on youtube that a professional electrician or plumber or photographer or mechanic would think is basic, but i needed to see it once before i felt comfortable doing it myself.
gay is gay .
Indeed, you have proven that beyond a doubt! Cheers
nice Ranger Raptor!! enjoyed the video. I highly recommend the RONIN FACTORY Oil Drain Plug. Check it out... I use it on my 2017 FORD f150 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost. It's made the oil change so much easier and controllable.
That sounds awesome. I’m going to look it up right now. Thanks!