1) You got to the point and didn't waste the first five minutes talking about nothing. 2) You didn't set it up perfectly from the get-go which would leave people with a lot of questions when setting up theirs and it didn't set up perfectly. Instead you showed what to do when the initial set-up needs tuning. 3) I would not call the outside of the stone a "reference surface". I doubt it's that flat. Overall excellent video. I'm glad I watched this before taking my chisels to my new T8. Thank you.
I just purchased a Tormek T-8 sharpener. And I have delved through the excellent comprehensive manual on it's use and applications most relevant to my needs which are mostly kitchen-related knives in addition to a beginner's hobby interest in fine woodworking. Thank you very much for the added-value of getting the most from the new shop machine which I suspect will serve me well into the far future. Your video was very useful in addition to the DVD supplied with the machine.
6:55 - When setting the angle of the chisel against the stone start with an angle that is shallower than required, so that the heel and not the edge is resting against the stone. Then adjust the angle with the edge moving towards the stone. Yes, you are going to be working on the edge, but by starting with the edge against the stone you can only damage it (further) and make yourself more work. Thank you for making this video.
I've got three Tormek T8 And I've been looking for a good video of retouching stone surface & chisle sharpening and stroping and I found it ! Great job your instructions super clear and to the point 📍Excellent only had to watch once and I got it 👍🏼
Great video, thanks. Just bought a T8 today, what an amazing piece of kit, not cheap but it does a fantastic job and should last many years. cheers Tony
Thanks for a great explanation of this machine and process. However, I would recommend flattening the entire backside of the chisel. This is because the back side of a chisel references the "wall" the chisel is creating as it cuts into wood. If the entire back is not flat, the chisel will not cut a flat wall and will instead either dive in deeper as it proceeds or fade out of the cut. It is also critical to have an entirely flattened back when chiseling along a guide.
So if you were sharpening multiple chisels, would you fully sharpen one item at a time, alternating 220 and 1000 grits, or would you sharpen all items @220 and then go back and polish them all at 1000? I’m guessing the former (fully doing one at a time) so you maintain a precise angle. I am looking for the best way to benefit from economies of scale.
When you set the USB make sure to square it by putting the initial pressure above the micro adjust knob. The micro adjust knob is your reference for the USB. Tighten the knob under the micro adjust before tightening the other support. This should hold the USB parallel to the tool. From this position use the truing tool to flatten the stone. This will register the USB bar and your stones to the same reference point.
Excellent explanation, I learned a thing or two, and I will surely run my chisels through the T-8 again soon! A question... What's the procedure for when the chisel(s) need resharpening? The same procedure again, or? Thanks.
Very good demo. My biggest problem is squaring up the blade. Holding it against the machined edge is not good enough. I use the side of the stone and a straight edge. On a 2" wide blade it is about 3/32" off.
Very helpful, thanks. Could you explain the flattening the back of a plane iron on the side of the wheel? I assume the side of the wheel is coarse one can't use the stone grader to change to a fine grit? Thank you.
Wish you gave more time on the micro adjusting screws. I have the problem that I don't get an 90° angle on any of my chisels. I'm at the point of giving the SE-77 away and get the SE76 . Any one tips on a detailed video ajusting the SE-77 so my chisels get an good 90° angle?
0:52 Is there any other way of doing this using different and cheaper tool? I am not talking about the intensive manual hand sharpening with whatever preferred flat stone. I tried doing this with low speed 8" Al-Ox grind stone with random results. Thanks.
I have heard what you said from other Tormek ppl, that you can sharpen every edge tool in your house (and in your workshop) with the Tormek T-8. However, I have yet to find any instructional videos from Tormek or any Tormek user snowing the sharpening of mortising chisels. Anyone able to direkt me to a source? Or better yet, maybe Highland Woodworking can post one?
nice demo. my self, I only use the tormek for turning tools and kitchen knifes. straight edged tools? freehand on diamond plates. I find it quicker. gouges? tormek for sure!
Of course it's not SUPPOSED to. . . but since honing is generally done freehanded, the wobble doesn't introduce enough variable into the equation. If it did, Tormek would make the stropping side as concentric as the grinding wheel side. There are no issues with lack of quality from this company.
Do you have a video showing how to fix a chisel that is out of square? I have the t-4 and the same SE77 jig and I can't seem to get it square. Feel like I'm gonna just keep grinding down and ruin my chisel.
Weird, I grind my bevel to 25 degrees, then put on a small edge at 30 degrees. I do it by hand though, using a veritas guide. Maybe one day I will get a Tormek. Thanks for the vid
It's pretty fantastic really. Way overpriced, but works fantastically. We have one at the Invention Studio at Ga. Tech. I think, with all the accessories, it's about $2k. We use it for all of our hand tools. Super easy to use and gets them razor sharp.
In the video starting at 6:00 the Angle Master setting guide is shown. Around the outside perimeter of that setting gauge you will see notches with listed angles. You can insert the end of your chisel or plane blade into those notches and "read" the angle of your edge (finding the best fit and then knowing the grind angle of the blade). The standard grind angle of most chisels and plane irons is 25 degrees and 30 degrees for most mortise chisels. Also, with a Tormek you can choose to grind at the existing angle of the tool, but not bother to measure it. You do this by mounting your blade or chisel into the straight edge guide jig and put a black Sharpie mark on the bevel of the blade. Position the tool rest height so the bevel of the tool rests flat on the stone and turn the stone by hand and see how it contacts on the bevel (making minor adjustments to the tool rest height as needed). When the angle is just right, it will abrade the Sharpie mark evenly (so you know you're set to grind the existing bevel angle exactly as it is). Whether the angle is 25 degrees or 27 degrees, you don't care since you're just grinding on the existing angle without altering it.
The Tormek 7 has a ten year warranty but the new Tormek 8 that replaces it only has a seven year warranty. I guess Tormek doesn't think the Tormek 8 will last as long as the Tormek 7. bummer as I bought a Tormek 8…
That's not how they calculate warranty. What you said might be true, but they might have also decided they weren't getting their money's worth paying for repairs that happen between year 7 and year 10 and the relative value YOU the consumer attribute to getting that extra warranty. I doubt the 8 (from what I've seen) is less reliable than the 7. Maybe the 7 was less reliable when those units started to hit 7-10 years old than the calculated initially ;)
HALLO Highland Woodworking I was thinking about buying the T8 from you but it looks like that you don't bother to answer your costumers on your own channel, so I am wondering about if you bother to answer your costumers, if they have some problems with your products?!
The sound comes and goes. That thing does not look affordable. I got one of those cheap Sears Wet Sharp 146-66995 and it does great. Now at the end of the video, OK, not that nice, but it still puts on a decent edge I can work with.
If you are making a living as a woodworker there is no other substitute to get sharp chisels and plane irons you get what you pay for I have a cheaper sharpening system and now upgrading you will lose less metal on expensive tools each time you have to sharpen
Si a chaque fois on doit dresser la meule, ça finira par couter très cher pour peu qu'on ait plusieurs ciseaux à raffuter.... Les meules ne sont pas données chez Tormek.
Great video. Very clear and well presented, well produced. If you're open to a tiny piece of constructive criticism (I know, I know. Everyone's a critic.) You use the phrase "go ahead and..." A lot. It's obviously a very nit picking thing, and I offer it up respectfully, just as something to keep in mind when you shoot your next vid. Thank you for doing such a good job!
The video was very informative without a lot of useless filler.
You also have an excellent articulate voice for instructional videos.
Great job!
Awesome close-up shots and no blasting music. that alone deserves a TU.
Best instruction I have seen on using the T8 for chisel sharpening.
Best video to date on the Tormek…even better then Tormeks!!
1) You got to the point and didn't waste the first five minutes talking about nothing.
2) You didn't set it up perfectly from the get-go which would leave people with a lot of questions when setting up theirs and it didn't set up perfectly. Instead you showed what to do when the initial set-up needs tuning.
3) I would not call the outside of the stone a "reference surface". I doubt it's that flat.
Overall excellent video. I'm glad I watched this before taking my chisels to my new T8. Thank you.
I just purchased a Tormek T-8 sharpener. And I have delved through the excellent comprehensive manual on it's use and applications most relevant to my needs which are mostly kitchen-related knives in addition to a beginner's hobby interest in fine woodworking. Thank you very much for the added-value of getting the most from the new shop machine which I suspect will serve me well into the far future. Your video was very useful in addition to the DVD supplied with the machine.
Nice demonstration. Better than most I have seen. Great tip on the honing. Not many people show that.
Extremely well done demonstration. It was very useful to me. Thank you!
Great video
Thank you for this masterclass on the Tormek - 👌🏼 best tutorial out there ✅🤗
6:55 - When setting the angle of the chisel against the stone start with an angle that is shallower than required, so that the heel and not the edge is resting against the stone. Then adjust the angle with the edge moving towards the stone. Yes, you are going to be working on the edge, but by starting with the edge against the stone you can only damage it (further) and make yourself more work. Thank you for making this video.
I've got three Tormek T8
And I've been looking for a good video of retouching stone surface & chisle sharpening and stroping and I found it ! Great job your instructions super clear and to the point 📍Excellent only had to watch once and I got it 👍🏼
Great video, thanks.
Just bought a T8 today, what an amazing piece of kit, not cheap but it does a fantastic job and should last many years.
cheers
Tony
A really good demonstration. Thank you
Excellent demo. I have learned a lot from this. Thanks and keep op the good work!
It’s been a while since my first sharpening, this is a great refresher.
thanks for a great video. We are sharing with our members in the Guild of Professional Sharpeners.
I think I'm getting this sharpener. Thanks for the good instructions.
Great demonstration, thanks
Thanks for the great video! Excellent!
Very professional presentation. Saved.
Thanks, this helps a lot, rec mine next week
Made it simple. Thanks.
Excellent demonstration.
most excellent instruction
Thank you
Good job!
Thanks was a bit intimidated by the 77 jig, that breaks it down well!
Well done
Good job
Thanks for a great explanation of this machine and process. However, I would recommend flattening the entire backside of the chisel. This is because the back side of a chisel references the "wall" the chisel is creating as it cuts into wood. If the entire back is not flat, the chisel will not cut a flat wall and will instead either dive in deeper as it proceeds or fade out of the cut. It is also critical to have an entirely flattened back when chiseling along a guide.
It's a dear machine
So if you were sharpening multiple chisels, would you fully sharpen one item at a time, alternating 220 and 1000 grits, or would you sharpen all items @220 and then go back and polish them all at 1000? I’m guessing the former (fully doing one at a time) so you maintain a precise angle.
I am looking for the best way to benefit from economies of scale.
When you set the USB make sure to square it by putting the initial pressure above the micro adjust knob. The micro adjust knob is your reference for the USB. Tighten the knob under the micro adjust before tightening the other support. This should hold the USB parallel to the tool. From this position use the truing tool to flatten the stone. This will register the USB bar and your stones to the same reference point.
Great
Excellent explanation, I learned a thing or two, and I will surely run my chisels through the T-8 again soon!
A question...
What's the procedure for when the chisel(s) need resharpening? The same procedure again, or?
Thanks.
Good video. Shave you done one for knives or double bevels?
Bravo 👍 👍
Very good demo. My biggest problem is squaring up the blade. Holding it against the machined edge is not good enough. I use the side of the stone and a straight edge. On a 2" wide blade it is about 3/32" off.
Very helpful, thanks. Could you explain the flattening the back of a plane iron on the side of the wheel? I assume the side of the wheel is coarse one can't use the stone grader to change to a fine grit?
Thank you.
Thanks for replying.
This was good. I have a T8 and I haven't used it yet. The manual isn't very good. I'll head into the garage after work and give it a go.
Wish you gave more time on the micro adjusting screws. I have the problem that I don't get an 90° angle on any of my chisels. I'm at the point of giving the SE-77 away and get the SE76 . Any one tips on a detailed video ajusting the SE-77 so my chisels get an good 90° angle?
0:52
Is there any other way of doing this using different and cheaper tool?
I am not talking about the intensive manual hand sharpening with whatever preferred flat stone.
I tried doing this with low speed 8" Al-Ox grind stone with random results.
Thanks.
I have heard what you said from other Tormek ppl, that you can sharpen every edge tool in your house (and in your workshop) with the Tormek T-8.
However, I have yet to find any instructional videos from Tormek or any Tormek user snowing the sharpening of mortising chisels. Anyone able to direkt me to a source? Or better yet, maybe Highland Woodworking can post one?
nice demo. my self, I only use the tormek for turning tools and kitchen knifes. straight edged tools? freehand on diamond plates. I find it quicker. gouges? tormek for sure!
Thanks buddy! I'm getting one of these systems. Completely unrelated, what watch are you wearing?
Great video man, but is the leather wheel supposed to wobble from side to side?
Of course it's not SUPPOSED to. . . but since honing is generally done freehanded, the wobble doesn't introduce enough variable into the equation. If it did, Tormek would make the stropping side as concentric as the grinding wheel side. There are no issues with lack of quality from this company.
Oh, is the honing wheel supposed to wobble so much? I've been trying to diagnose the wobble on mine!
it means you dont have the wheel on properly. theree are some notches in the honing wheel that should fit right in there.
Do you have a video showing how to fix a chisel that is out of square? I have the t-4 and the same SE77 jig and I can't seem to get it square. Feel like I'm gonna just keep grinding down and ruin my chisel.
We don't have a video on that specific sharpening topic, but we recommend Matt Cremona's sharpening video: czcams.com/video/3QZtNnI7bA0/video.html
FYI. Your voice is only coming out of my left speaker. Music comes through both, as do your overdubs. Nice demo, though.
Ok. Seems it's only in some parts.
Weird, I grind my bevel to 25 degrees, then put on a small edge at 30 degrees. I do it by hand though, using a veritas guide. Maybe one day I will get a Tormek. Thanks for the vid
Can the tormek t-8 sharpen Japanese chisels too
It's pretty fantastic really. Way overpriced, but works fantastically. We have one at the Invention Studio at Ga. Tech. I think, with all the accessories, it's about $2k. We use it for all of our hand tools. Super easy to use and gets them razor sharp.
what do you do when your chisels are older and they are shorter and will not allow for enough protrusion to get your desired angle??
Pat M, Buy a new chisel! I use an old modified chisel as a scraper for smaller stuff.
@@Emondotcalm Great for opening paint cans. If you can afford a Tormek T8 you can afford a new chisel.
Use the Tormek short chisel jig.
how do you know what the angle of the chisel is?
In the video starting at 6:00 the Angle Master setting guide is shown. Around the outside perimeter of that setting gauge you will see notches with listed angles. You can insert the end of your chisel or plane blade into those notches and "read" the angle of your edge (finding the best fit and then knowing the grind angle of the blade). The standard grind angle of most chisels and plane irons is 25 degrees and 30 degrees for most mortise chisels.
Also, with a Tormek you can choose to grind at the existing angle of the tool, but not bother to measure it. You do this by mounting your blade or chisel into the straight edge guide jig and put a black Sharpie mark on the bevel of the blade. Position the tool rest height so the bevel of the tool rests flat on the stone and turn the stone by hand and see how it contacts on the bevel (making minor adjustments to the tool rest height as needed). When the angle is just right, it will abrade the Sharpie mark evenly (so you know you're set to grind the existing bevel angle exactly as it is). Whether the angle is 25 degrees or 27 degrees, you don't care since you're just grinding on the existing angle without altering it.
The Tormek 7 has a ten year warranty but the new Tormek 8 that replaces it only has a seven year warranty.
I guess Tormek doesn't think the Tormek 8 will last as long as the Tormek 7. bummer as I bought a Tormek 8…
That's not how they calculate warranty. What you said might be true, but they might have also decided they weren't getting their money's worth paying for repairs that happen between year 7 and year 10 and the relative value YOU the consumer attribute to getting that extra warranty. I doubt the 8 (from what I've seen) is less reliable than the 7. Maybe the 7 was less reliable when those units started to hit 7-10 years old than the calculated initially ;)
HALLO Highland Woodworking I was thinking about buying the T8 from you but it looks like that you don't bother to answer your costumers on your own channel, so I am wondering about if you bother to answer your costumers, if they have some problems with your products?!
Hello. Please let us know if you have any questions.
Fried Mule nu
Great tool and very ointeresting but costing over $3000 complete in NZ it is not for the amateur wood worker
The sound comes and goes.
That thing does not look affordable.
I got one of those cheap Sears Wet Sharp 146-66995 and it does great.
Now at the end of the video, OK, not that nice, but it still puts on a decent edge I can work with.
If you are making a living as a woodworker there is no other substitute to get sharp chisels and plane irons you get what you pay for I have a cheaper sharpening system and now upgrading you will lose less metal on expensive tools each time you have to sharpen
apakah di indonesia ada yg menjual produk ini?....
You can purchase online here and have it shipped to Indonesia: www.highlandwoodworking.com/tormek-t8-sharpening-system.aspx
ما هو سعر الماكينة
Si a chaque fois on doit dresser la meule, ça finira par couter très cher pour peu qu'on ait plusieurs ciseaux à raffuter....
Les meules ne sont pas données chez Tormek.
Why do so many guys on youtube repeatedly "go ahead" and do things?
and "what you're gonna wanna do is..."
So, what you're gonna wanna do is go ahead and...
6:22 does not match 6:57
Ensure you tighten all knobs before adjusting your tool.
Your'e Welcome
Cheers,
Wire edge territory..
..... if you can see an edge, there is no edge....
C. V
Thanks for the video, but please stop the "go ahead and's", its the new "um"
Terrible pan on the audio
Great video. Very clear and well presented, well produced.
If you're open to a tiny piece of constructive criticism (I know, I know. Everyone's a critic.)
You use the phrase "go ahead and..." A lot.
It's obviously a very nit picking thing, and I offer it up respectfully, just as something to keep in mind when you shoot your next vid.
Thank you for doing such a good job!
Many procedural errors in this vid. Use the genuine Tormek vids. Poor effort.
Hey guy your audio killed this video
sorry
Thank you for this masterclass on the Tormek - 👌🏼 best tutorial out there ✅🤗