DIY tire change at home, kiss the tire shop goodbye!
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- čas přidán 26. 04. 2024
- Go off grid with your auto repairs - no tire shop needed in this one!
Tools used (note that my channel is new enough to where the links may not work for a month or two while we build credibility with CZcams! Please consider subbing and liking the video!):
Harbor Freight tire changer:
www.harborfreight.com/manual-...
Note: They have at least two different models - one with the piece of steel with the keyring for holding the tire in place, and one with a more built-in setup for the same purpose that stays affixed to the stand. I have the one with the piece of steel separate from the unit as seen in the video.
Centering cone:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C...
Duck bill mod: www.ebay.com/itm/115378446519
Note: After using it on the two tires seen in this video, I do think it's deserving of a very positive review. Its build is high quality in my opinion, and does a great job for my DIY purposes on stock wheels. The fact that it's a fairly wide shaft can actually be a benefit considering that the shafts on the tire changer can have excess paint on them, so it's almost guaranteed to fit no matter the quality of the tire changer you wind up with.
Harbor Freight Tire iron:
www.harborfreight.com/24-inch...
Brass wire wheel:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
Pistol grip tire inflator:
www.harborfreight.com/pistol-...
Ryobi inflators (these appear to be older models at this point, but any power inflator with a compressor will do I'm sure!):
Power Inflator model number: P7370
Dual Function Inflator / Deflator: P747
Wheel balancer:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09...
Wheel weights:
www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...
Not used but mentioned (bead clamps):
www.amazon.com/YaeMarine-Pack... - Jak na to + styl
Hi, great video. Thanks . Some suggestions would be to take out all rhe wheel weights. Before inflating the tire, place on balancer. Then take off balancer, move tire (tyre) a bit on the rim and then place back on the balancer. You might not even have to use weights.
Also, i would mount the tire with the sensor inside the rim because it can fall into the rim and its a pain to dish it out without taking one side of the tire (tyre) off the rim.
To prevent damage to the sensor, i usually seat the rire by hand at the sensor with the other end already dropped into the deep valley of the rim. Then proceed with duckhead, in that way when you come around to finish, the duckhead will not come in contact with the sensor because you would have stopped before it. Also lube the contact surfaces of the tire and the rim, also before and during bead breaking. I find that helps tremendously and less fighting and no damage to the tools and anchors. Still an excellent video with lessons learned. Thanks again
Thanks so much for commenting and for the great advice, Bob! Those are fantastic tips that I'll keep in mind for the next tire change I do. The less wheel weights I have to mess with, the better - wish I'd have thought of what you suggested to begin with on the first two tires I did that weren't shown in this video...! Cheers!
Well done, sir!
Yay, welcome! Thanks for watching!
I've used a wire wheel as well having needed to as the tire shops really use thick tire lube .I touch up with a scotch pad .To get the bead to seat I use some old antifreeze in a spray bottle setting it on stream to lube the entire bead. It really works well as the antifreeze is so slippery. Helps to not tear the bead. It also minimizes the amount of pull you need to make a full pass.
Ooh good tips - do you use the antifreeze instead of tire lube? Thanks for watching!
@@TheKenAgain Yes , the antifreeze works fantastic. My 90 year old father showed me that trick so many years ago. Don't need much just full coverage all around. He's the only guy I know that has a jack for a model T. I've learned alot from him.
Remember, the way a tire comes off is dropping the bead on one side into the rim while the other side comes over.
Does it help to push the tire down on the other side when you first start - or no? Or in other words, good to make sure it's not too far up on the other side? Good comment, and thanks for watching!
@@TheKenAgain Yes it does...because that action is helping the other side to move into the dished portion of the rim, giving the other side more "slack" to go over and off the rim. Remember, the rim is larger than the tire..so that is why the wheel rim is dished in the center.
@@TheKenAgain Changing tires with irons, by hand with the thing you have, or even a machine requires the opposite bead to be in the center. It is called a drop center rim as otherwise pulling the bead over the rim would be like trying to shove a manhole cover in the hole (it never fits) and will cause severe tire damage. If you want to know how to really change a tire and how the drop center works nothing beats Motorcycle tires, using good tire irons about 1/2 the length of your Harbor Freight ones. I would suggest learning from a Motorcycle repair video, but not from CZcams content providers who get lots of complements but make actual professional motorcycle technicians scream at the screen. IMO, many if not most popular "get the motorcycle running" CZcams super stars are far from instructional. Stumbling through incorrect diagnosis and improper tool use is making a living for "content creators" while misinforming lots of unsuspecting people giving unwarranted high praise.
BTW: that goofy thing you refer to as a clamp for securing the tire to the rim, is actually meant to hold the opposite end of the car tire in the drop center. Which might be a non professional gimmick, but effective for inexperienced users such as yourself or others viewing this video.
Hah! Yesss, I definitely don't want any experts tearing their hair out on my account! Do you have any recommendations for a good channel that shows changing a motorcycle tire the right way? Definitely interested in learning more. Good to know about the clamp too. Thanks so much for the comment and details!!
@@TheKenAgain I did a quick search looking at a few options. This one czcams.com/video/yxZl9pQOf3A/video.html titled "You Missed the Most Important Step -The Drop Center Secret and How to Use it ." seemed to cover the correct points without too much extra stuff. Amazingly as you see in the end when he backs up the inner tube lock nut, that is the exact reason I rejected several other name brand professional instructional videos. Specifically, because they tightened the nut when they shouldn't. Or more often skipped passed emphasizing the need to utilize the drop center. The reason you never tighten a valve stem nut is because if the tire slips whatsoever it will tear the valve stem from the inner tube.
Better than watching videos though, changing tires of any kind yourself while knowing to always utilize the drop center whenever you are levering on a bead is the finest instruction you can have, for life.
One more thing, scuffing the finish of an alloy wheel will definitely lead to corrosion as they are clear coated to prevent oxidation, and brushing it off removes that protection. I don't have a suggested remedy for that.
I like using a scotch pad that I can attach to a right angle die grinder, takes the gunk off without removing a bunch of material
Nice! I was thinking about getting a die grinder, but then remembered I had the brass wheels and figured I should give them and the other drill attachments a whirl. Are the scotch brites called that when you buy them? Or they're just abrasive pads for the grinder basically? I saw a few options at Harbor Freight but wasn't sure if they were the right stuff I had in mind. I was thinking of exactly this though and may try it next time. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Changing tires at home is a good thing, well done.
How has the balancing worked out Ken? Any vibes at freeway speeds?
I thought I saw you put 2 weights on a wheel, then you took them off after a check balance and went with no weights?
I had all kinds of trouble with an HF bubble balancer giving me the wrong answer - just wondering if your one is doing the same thing.
Here's what I do if you are curious czcams.com/video/WgjNO2gt3xg/video.html
Hey Rich! Thanks for watching & commenting, and for the kind words! You're absolutely right, I took the wheel weights off after a recheck after I put the initial weights on (around 38:48'ish in the video). I do agree, the balancer is a little hit or miss it felt in some ways.
Granted, I've only done four wheels so far, I think that it just requires a bit more time than a more robust / expensive machine (assuming I did the setup correctly for the unit itself, aligning the pin properly that the balancer sits on, greasing it a bit even, securing the base on level ground, adjusting the bubble initially, etc.). With enough checking and moving the wheel around on it, I felt like I got a consistent enough reading. My personal thought too is that 1/4 of an ounce to a 1/2, while I imagine it absolutely can make a difference, prooooooobably won't in my case, or at least not a substantial one.
Great question regarding any vibrations. My wife and I have a great dynamic as she's a better driver than I am (and I don't much care for driving myself funnily enough, hah!). She's also much more sensitive to how the vans handle and notices things right away when they're off. She said it's not vibrating at all and really likes how it's driving with the new tires. I agree with her on that too for when I've driven it. There was one time where it gave a brief shimmy that I can't quite explain, but I chalked it up to a fluke / something possibly up with the road I was on. It only lasted a few seconds that I recall. We've driven it quite a bit since this video / the new tires, too! At least over a thousand miles I'd guesstimate. :) 1+ hour Road trips + city driving.
As an aside, I love how new tires feel - the traction and suspension always feels much improved!
Ken
@@TheKenAgain
You would have noticed any vibes as soon as you got up to say 60-70 on a freeway.
Rear tires give a vibration thru the seat. Front tires a vibe from the front.
If you ever get a dynamic vibration, it will make the steering wheel judder in your hands.
Tires seem to be made so well nowadays, the odds of getting a dynamic unbalance are slim to none.
They are also not putting the yellow and red dots on some tires now (balance alignment marks)
I agree with the tolerance, if you are within 1/2oz and you put the weights at the wheel vertical CG plane, you will be good.
The big machines at the tire shops are for high throughput of vehicles and sometimes they just don't get the wheel square on the balancing machine. I'm retired, so time is not an issue for me.
When I was trying to use the HF bubble machine, I would get it balanced. Lift the wheel and rotate it 90° and put it back on. It would give me a totally different answer. Lots of tail chasing. Some of them are just made badly. If you get a good one, keep it.
I don't think there's paint and it shouldn't corrode. Pretty sure it's aluminum alloy. But then again, I am not a tireologist
Haha, love the comment, thanks for sharing!
I almost stopped listening out to the words harbor freight