How to Paint Gunpla! - A Beginner's Guide Pt.3: Finishing Work
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- čas přidán 10. 06. 2024
- Welcome back for the conclusion of this guide for beginners to painting Gunpla using spray cans!
For more kits, paints, and supplies check out USA Gundam Store!
www.usagundamstore.com/
PLAYLIST: • 131 - Gunpla Building ...
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Thanks for watching!
00:00:00 Introduction
00:01:05 Panel Lining Intro
00:04:18 Panel Lining Application
00:08:02 Bonus Tips
00:10:00 Decals Intro
00:13:32 Decal Application
00:18.55 Topcoating
00:22:24 Conclusion - Zábava
"you will make mistakes" no truer words have ever been said.
I really dig the colour scheme of this Lah Gundam
Edit : you better put the playlist or part1 and part 2 on description just to make your previous videos easily discovered
I spray-canned a v2 gundam and man! what an eye opener! If you are new to painting modelkits please take the time to educate yourselves on painting airbrush vs spray-can applications!
Also gotta invest in pointed Q-tips!
Beginner series for Resin kit conversion.
absolutely this
Planning to do this!
Mark Setter is super useful, it makes the decals much easier to work with and move into place. Also, if I start drying it and it's slipped into the wrong spot but is too dry to move, a little setter gets it moving again. If nothing else, swiping very small decals on the brush makes them stay on a lot better.
Bazinga. The thumbnail says part 2
🐔 *Chicken cluck* 🐔
XD
@chaosleviatho879 the thumbnail is step 2
@chaosleviatho879 society makes you see it's 3
fixed! thanks
I honestly can’t wait to see the air brush tutorials
Little tip for if you still want to try "sliding" your waterslide stickers from the sheet, use the pointy end of one of your gator clip sticks, since it handles like a pen, so your fingers won't cramp up putting the stickers in place.
yo that masking tape metallic marker tip is golddd
Love the video! When applying decals, I find it's important to scream and swear them on.
The more expletives shouted, the more effective the decal application will be. Just like painting.
An alternative to cotton swabs are plamo wiper sticks, the ones with the flat 45 degree angle tips that you can cut to make 90 degrees.
Granted, they are hard to find despite their cheap price because no seller can decide what name to give them universally, hence, Google keeps giving you generic cotton swabs that are full of cotton fuzz that'll get under your decals... Currently, I'm using the ones from Godhand
yeah those are nice! just not as economical
I finished painting my first gunpla a few weeks ago (EG RX-78), and I cannot emphasize how much you should mask not only your joints, but even the areas where the parts rub up against each other. I masked most of the joints, but I still got some paint in one of the hip joints and that was enough to shear off the ball joint. thankfully that was fixed, but getting some of the parts together had me break out the pliers to force them together (with enough tissue in the way to make sure I didn't just mess up the finish and parts).
Great tutorial on the water slide decals. I've been sitting on them for a while not sure whether I should go ahead and apply them.
Careful using spraycans outside. A gust of wind can put more on you than the model. And humidity can really affect the spray. I ended up in my basement with a respirator to get good spraycan results.
Now its an airbrush only.
This is hands down the best guide I have ever seen for not just painting, but doing things like decals and such. I look forward to seeing you covering using air brushes, and could you alos demonstrate with like a frame arms girl or megami device or similar kit?
Sure thing! Thank you so much!
Love this video series!
For the topcoat part of the video, from experience, if you’re planning on handling the kit and posing it then Semi-gloss is the best option, it doesn’t scratch easily and lets you grip parts better
A trick u can use for the decals is getting a wet pallet, it keeps them wet and ready when you go to apply them
Yep! I was gonna mention about that. But basically I don't use one cause I think they're pretty unnecessary.
For final matte/flat top coat I highly recommend Mr.Color Super Smooth Clear (GX-114). As the name said, the result is very smooth without that rough or chalky feel that other flat coat can have. The application is different as it suggest to apply wet coat as if you're spraying gloss but like magic it will dry out leaving super smooth finish. I think it's available in spray can, but best used with airbrush for that aforementioned wet coat technique.
Absolutely!
Great guide, your finishing work tips are really helpful! 🎨🤖
i like the look of the camera sticks with a matt coat on them
The final product of this series looks great! Crazy how even just spray cans can look this good. How I wish I had the patience for this process though. I like painted, matte finish kits but man I just don't have it in me to do detailing. Even sticker decals and panel lining with markers, I find to be really tedious.
Recently had troubles with water-slides. This video helped! Great Lah color scheme as well.
Glad to hear it!
meanwhile some water-slide decals are massive such as the camo patterns which you have to be careful not to have them accidentally folded up when wet.
Yes that can happen! Usually you’re able to gently unfold them but sometimes not 😬
Just in the nick of time! I had bought all Montana flat spray paints and I was wondering whether I had to gloss coat it before applying panel liner and decals.
Hi zaku, I'm not sure I'll get an answer, but I'm not seeing it anywhere in forums. I use Mr. Hobby and tamiya lacquers, and I'm still having issues cleaning parts up even days after letting the paint cure. Using enamel thinner or zippo fluid for clean-up still affects my paint job, even when the medium is barely on the Q-tip. I truly don't know what I'm doing wrong...
But also beautiful painting! ❤❤❤
dry transfers on a curved surface is a complete nightmare. Avoid like a plague.
Great videos mate! I learned a lot by watching your stuff. Anyway, here is the problem I'm experiencing: I did panel lining with a gundam marker (GM301) and a top coat with Mr. Hobby( Mr. Supersmooth Clear) afterwards. After a few minutes, the panel lining became watery and smeared, now looks like crap. Do you have any advice on how to avoid that in the future?
Maybe link the first two parts in the description or a playlist so they can be easier to find
they are all in the Gunpla Building Tutorials playlist! :)
What is your take on using different kinds of paints say Lacquer, enamel, and acrylic on the same kit? For instance I'm working on a gunpla and used lacquer for some parts and enamel on details of the inner frame. If i spray it with an acrylic top coat would it mess up the work?
Do the pour type Gundam markers still work for painted surfaces?
Can you individually flat coat armor pieces if you have a kit with an exposed metallic frame like the Barbatos and the Gundam MKII? Seems like some kits just can’t be masked effectively in large sections.
That's what I did with the MGEX Strike Freedom.
Absolutely you can. It just takes more time. I always do my parts separately all the way up until final assembly.
Links for parts 1 and 2? Thanks!
Can you please add these 3 videos in a playlist? I missed part 2 and i cant find it in your channel
they are all in the Gunpla Building Tutorials playlist! :)
won't the cleaning of the panel line excesses remove the paint too ? also is it bad if you paint with brushes instead of spray cans or airbrush?
1. No it won’t remove the paint if done using this method and the paint is spray can (lacquer paint) BUT if you rub it with too much fluid you could eventually damage the paint yes. Just don’t overdo it, that’s why it’s important not to wait too long before cleaning up- as explained.
2. No it’s not bad to paint with brush, but that’s a totally different approach with its own set of do’s and dont’s
@@ZakuAurelius oh ok so the old color that dried can resist the liquid while the new can't basically...what if you used a water based color instead of laquer as your base color, would that hurt the paintjob more? also is the lighter fluid the same as paint thinner? i used that to remove panel line excesses (but never tried to do it on painted parts) or is the paint fluid a bit weaker on the paint?
thanks a lot for the tips.
Make a playlist mate puhleaseeee
they are all in the Gunpla Building Tutorials playlist! :)
Do you have a tutorial on how to fix cracked polycaps?
Use super glue.
@@onebilly6581 That’s the first thing I tried but didn’t work. Any other suggestions?
@@BLAZE084 super glue with soda powder.. if still not working, you need to find spare parts.
@@onebilly6581 Well $#!7 guess it's off to the store then. Thanks for the tips. Much appreciated!
I know this isn't the point you were making, but the surface of Mars isn't red.
ZAKUAURELIUS ALWAYS BE THE BEST CHANNEL IN THE UNIVERSE!!! Please ignore Mechagaikotsu, he got no balls and he's a real coward of LOSERS!!? 😂
Everyone has a place in the community.
Somehow, even you.
bruh, why tf are you hating on Mechagaikotsu?
@@PandaXs1 he dislike Tallgeese's good brother who defended the earth.