Comparing two different sawing techniques. Milling some pine with lots of problems on the wood mizer. Lumber Sawmill Sawmills Sawmill in action Woodmizer Wood mister Band mill Farmstead
Depending on the species be sure to cut more than you require. Mine was cut from loblolly pine from a creek bank. Very wide growth rings. The warping when in was dry was about 40%. It looked like big box store lumber. Good luck. Thanks for the subscribe.
First timer viewer Really great voice over description. Very informative, especially when you noted the points where you manually measured ( just to be sure!). Appreciate you showing side-by-side comparison of the sawn logs at the end. That's a good way to recap.
I really like how you cut smaller slabs in order to maximize the lumber. Often some of the best wood that you can get is sawn before you ever get to a cant. I understand that you can minimize the wear and tear on your sawmill my cutting larger slabs, but to me I would rather maximize the lumber and minimize the slabs that you have to deal with. I worked in wood products some ware around 25 years. Retired now, but I still like to see a man take advantage of his log resources. Keep up the good work.
I agree you do cut through a bit more bark to get to the boards but they are there. I sawed up those three and 4 slabs and 4 fletches on a 30 inch oak. The blade was still cutting okay it was just cutting a little slower than I wanted in a 20 inch cant so I changed it.
I mill the way you did it the first two times, unless the customer wants to move faster and is uninterested in getting every board possible out of the jacket boards (I cut by the hour). When I get to the step for trimming flitches, I now stack the smallest double live edge material nearest the backstops, then increase in size as I stack towards the clamp. Single live edge stuff will go out towards the clamp as well. Seems like a small thing, but when there are more than a few boards I'm edging, I am able to release the clamp and it's always the easy-to-access clamp side, outer boards that are ready to go to a stack; I don't have to decompose the flitches on the mill to examine each one, sort them, or fight to get a good one out of the middle. Splitting the pith is so tempting with a hydraulic mill, as the whole logs cuts faster, but it's something I try to avoid as much as possible as well.
When they get very big I put them back in the order they came off. Next big log I will try flipping them all at once to get them the way you described. I think that would be great the single live edge fletches would be up.
I enjoy your verbal description of your work. You are obviously cutting "2"X 4" for construction, but you said that you cut them to 3 5/8 inches. Is your goal to have them, through drying, to reach standard of 1.5" or do you just prefer the odd dimension of 3 5/8 inches?
Thanks for the response. Yes yellow pine will shrink a little when it’s dry to equilibrium here is about 10% depending on the season. 3 and 13/16 would probably be the best by 1 and 9/16. Until recently I ran a LT10 fully manual. It was a challenge to keep the lumber within a 1/8 inch. These 2x4s are for a guy building a addition to a shop. So if he needs he can buy finished lumber that will blend together with these.
Hey buddy how are ya? Great video showing the different ways to slice a small log. I kind have a hard time cutting smaller than 12 inch logs. I seem to waste a lil more than when cutting larger logs. I like 18 to 24 inch logs I can see the cuts better before I make them. If that makes since?? I try to get as much out of each log as I can so I end up with lots of one by boards. I use them for all sorts of projects. I run a larger manual sawmill and hope some day to add hydraulics, cuzz I’m getting old and crunchy hehehehe Thank you for sharing, God bless you and yours. Have a merry Christmas.
Thanks for commenting. That 18 inch is my sweet spot as well. Bigger and production starts going down. Next video is a 30 inch oak cutting 5 quarter. Board feet an hour is about 150.
Thanks for the reply. Yes not just restored though. It was a 1988 full manual mill. I have a video Turing the final product here. czcams.com/video/bCb-FjCkP9c/video.htmlsi=RjVZLZ9BfZpFn2pg
Hand down the first two. The last one yields less boards and because of the pith split in the cuts, some of them will dry crooked. Also 4 of them have bark on the corners.
I like how you broke down your cuts.
Still working on my learning curve, your knowledge is appreciated.
Glad to help
It's nice to see someone on CZcams who actually knows how to properly saw a 2x4! On the first two logs, anyway.
Thanks
I just located your video and I’m about to start cutting framing limber for a new shop project love how you make your videos.
Depending on the species be sure to cut more than you require. Mine was cut from loblolly pine from a creek bank. Very wide growth rings. The warping when in was dry was about 40%. It looked like big box store lumber. Good luck. Thanks for the subscribe.
First timer viewer
Really great voice over description. Very informative, especially when you noted the points where you manually measured ( just to be sure!).
Appreciate you showing side-by-side comparison of the sawn logs at the end. That's a good way to recap.
Glad it was helpful! I appreciate the feedback.
Another great video, I love the way you explain your cuts.👍🏻
Glad you like them!
Enjoyed the instruction
I’m glad you like it! More to come.
I really like how you cut smaller slabs in order to maximize the lumber. Often some of the best wood that you can get is sawn before you ever get to a cant. I understand that you can minimize the wear and tear on your sawmill my cutting larger slabs, but to me I would rather maximize the lumber and minimize the slabs that you have to deal with. I worked in wood products some ware around 25 years. Retired now, but I still like to see a man take advantage of his log resources. Keep up the good work.
Thanks I agree with every word!
You make it look so easy. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment,and compliment.
Pretty dam good!
Thanks for the comment, glad you approved!
Nice to see maximizing lumber output by milling the right way.
Thanks, I hate dealing with slabs. The smaller the better. Thanks for the subscribe.
Looks someone did a fine job restoring the Lt30.
Thanks jerry, it is so much better than the LT10 I had before.
This is a great video. Anyone getting into producing lumber on a mill should watch it. I'm more in your camp. I maximize every cut I can.
Thanks! Some times it’s unavoidable with curved logs. But yeah I like to start with a 1x4 it I can.
Good demonstration!
Thanks
Its the battle of board count vs blade life. Good video, I like the way you restacked the lumber. It was a nice shot. 👍
I agree you do cut through a bit more bark to get to the boards but they are there. I sawed up those three and 4 slabs and 4 fletches on a 30 inch oak. The blade was still cutting okay it was just cutting a little slower than I wanted in a 20 inch cant so I changed it.
You got some nice lumber out of your logs. Good job.
Thanks Dave
I mill the way you did it the first two times, unless the customer wants to move faster and is uninterested in getting every board possible out of the jacket boards (I cut by the hour). When I get to the step for trimming flitches, I now stack the smallest double live edge material nearest the backstops, then increase in size as I stack towards the clamp. Single live edge stuff will go out towards the clamp as well. Seems like a small thing, but when there are more than a few boards I'm edging, I am able to release the clamp and it's always the easy-to-access clamp side, outer boards that are ready to go to a stack; I don't have to decompose the flitches on the mill to examine each one, sort them, or fight to get a good one out of the middle.
Splitting the pith is so tempting with a hydraulic mill, as the whole logs cuts faster, but it's something I try to avoid as much as possible as well.
When they get very big I put them back in the order they came off. Next big log I will try flipping them all at once to get them the way you described. I think that would be great the single live edge fletches would be up.
I enjoy your verbal description of your work. You are obviously cutting "2"X 4" for construction, but you said that you cut them to 3 5/8 inches. Is your goal to have them, through drying, to reach standard of 1.5" or do you just prefer the odd dimension of 3 5/8 inches?
Thanks for the response. Yes yellow pine will shrink a little when it’s dry to equilibrium here is about 10% depending on the season. 3 and 13/16 would probably be the best by 1 and 9/16. Until recently I ran a LT10 fully manual. It was a challenge to keep the lumber within a 1/8 inch. These 2x4s are for a guy building a addition to a shop. So if he needs he can buy finished lumber that will blend together with these.
Hey buddy how are ya? Great video showing the different ways to slice a small log.
I kind have a hard time cutting smaller than 12 inch logs. I seem to waste a lil more than when cutting larger logs.
I like 18 to 24 inch logs I can see the cuts better before I make them. If that makes since?? I try to get as much out of each log as I can so I end up with lots of one by boards. I use them for all sorts of projects. I run a larger manual sawmill and hope some day to add hydraulics, cuzz I’m getting old and crunchy hehehehe
Thank you for sharing, God bless you and yours. Have a merry Christmas.
Thanks for commenting. That 18 inch is my sweet spot as well. Bigger and production starts going down. Next video is a 30 inch oak cutting 5 quarter. Board feet an hour is about 150.
Someone was just the 200th subscriber! Thanks a bunch!
Nice looking LT30. I am guessing that you restored it!
Thanks for the reply. Yes not just restored though. It was a 1988 full manual mill. I have a video Turing the final product here. czcams.com/video/bCb-FjCkP9c/video.htmlsi=RjVZLZ9BfZpFn2pg
What are you using for end sealer?
Anchor seal right now. Oil based paint when I get it on sale.
I don’t end seal pine or cedar. Only hardwoods.
What one did u like better
Hand down the first two. The last one yields less boards and because of the pith split in the cuts, some of them will dry crooked. Also 4 of them have bark on the corners.