I don't recommend spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine! I had that happen one time ⌚ and ended up with a car fire 🔥! Luckily I had my fire extinguisher near by and put it out quickly.
Oh my goodness it is so sad that you explained this so simple and 2 mechanics cant figure this out with my car or is too lazy to do so!!! I tried explaining this my self but Im not of mechanic of course!! Well! said!!!🙌🏾👏🏽👏🏽
How did you get it fixed because my mechanic refuses to listen to my opinion yet and says he can’t figure out what’s wrong but I know this is the problem
I had a vacuum leak coming from the small air box on top of my 05 Saturn L300’s engine. The rubber fitting around the intake was totally split open like a starfish. It would idle at over 1000 rpm, and run rough at lower RPMs. I went into Autozone and bought some heat shrink tubing, then walked across the street to a gas station and bought a lighter. Heat shrank the fitting closed with 1 tube, and then heat shrank another tube with excess bunched up around the intake to create a snug fit. It took a few tries to get it air tight, but eventually the suction noise stopped and the car started idling normally.
I had a vacuum leak because of three loose hose clamps. It caused the car to occasionally idle rough, headlights flickered because of poor idle, and the car would occasionally stall
I just bought a used Honda Civic. I’m experiencing these symptoms the RPM when I’m at a red light is very low. In fact, when I got the car I noticed that the hose to the engine air filter was off so I put that on wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a leak somewhere.
Spot on my man, i would only add speed density engines (map but no maf) react the opisite to vacum leaks. The engine runs higher rpm than normal beecause the computer adjusts for the pirate air. Maf and a map both on the engine they respond just like a maf, low idle and want to stall
I need help! I have a 2000 e320 Mercedes and I believe my problem could be a vacuum leak as well as a crankshaft position sensor, but idk. It hisses super loud and it misfires constantly and when it does so the check engine light flashes. And it won’t let me go above 20mph no matter what.
I went in for an alignment and the guy went to the parking lot and pulled my car into his shop. He then came back inside and told me, man you love your rite it’s so smooth u can’t even hear the car is on. Well rite when I pulled off it had a lack of power and few days later it was running horrible when cold startup till warm. It ended up being that the guy loosened all my intake manifold bolts. The question I have is why? They had 5 star reviews why me?
Guy wanted you to come back in and get charged up the butt for a super easy repair that he knew how to easily fix.. I do all my own work because I have trust issues with mechanics, not everyone is out to get you but honest mechanics usually have a long wait and are more expensive- but not always!!
This is why i went to mechanic school and learned how to fix my own car.Slimy mechanics like the one you experienced are just about everywhere in these days and times and that includes at the dealership,yes especially at the stealership.They got me one time many years ago,i swore it’ll never happen again.
My car rough idles and low idles, after idling without ac on for 20 minutes, corolla wants to stall. It still does it with ac on but not as often and take longer for stalling. Still rough idle.
My gas cab caused a vacum leak the code was p0456 indicates evap system detected a small leak, i changed the gas cab and everything went to normal, note that the code calls for a vacum leak in the evap system not partically the gas cap
I don't have stalling but at lower speed my rpm bounce up just a little then bounce back to normal idk what it is but got a feeling it's something like this happening
Mine sometimes dies straight after cold start. Triggered o2 codes. Slight hissing sound sometimes. Slightly lumpy idle like its gonna cut out. But 3 mechanics have said cant find air leak and one even used a smoke test
So I had a check engine light and cleared the code, ran the car for about 300km, high speeds. Then when I stopped, the check engine light came on again. It looks like a vacuum leak caused it. Is that fine???? That I drove the car for quite a distance. Did not notice any performance issues so I thought it was ok. 😢
My 1996 Mazda Protege has all these exact symptoms, EXCEPT it runs better when it's cold. I can drive for about 15 minutes each day before it starts acting up. And if it's a hot day out, it sometimes starts acting up immediately.
I have a 2002 audi a4 3.0i quattro and it seems that I have a vacuum leak from under the intake actuator (pressure tested with smoke) it's not the side vacuum hoses, it literally come from under the middle of the intake manifold.. What could it be? I am suspecting intake manifold gaskets, but then why would the smoke come right from the middle... Any advice? Thank you in advance!
I have a 2005 highlander, I tried the cleaner but it I can't find any leaks, I want to try a smoke tester, but don't know where to plug it in. Please help! 2005 toyota highlander 4 cylinder. I appreciate your help
I don’t know if it’s a vacuum leak that’s causing the number one cylinder misfire with a code PO 316 but I know more now watching your video so I’m subscribing, thanks.
Any ideas common areas of a leak with a 2010 Infiniti G37? I'm finding low coolant levels along with dampness down the sides of the engine.. possibly valve cover or intake??
your water pump is going out.your gonna have to do your gallery gaskets while your there.leaking gallery gaskets will cause low oil pressure big job and check ur timing chain for slack
I have a 94 Camaro 3.4 v6 checked everything but intake leaks where would be the best place to start and it will start for a second and then immediately stall so it’s a major vacuum leak
Brake booster consuming more vacuum at a stop. If there's a leak in vacuum. then there's not enough vacuum for other sensors to regulate air-fuel ratio causing problems
@@McWeldShit seen that on VW vortex, but i think it’s a fuel pump issue. Right before it’s about to stall I hear the pump hum and then the rpms jump up and down. Hasn’t been happening ever since I used some fuel cleaner
Can a vacuum leak trigger ONLY a PO420 code ?.... cat efficiency low? I'm chasing a far away turbo "whine" sound that could be an exhaust leak or intake leak. Seems to me to more likely be an exhaust leak before or at the cat, affecting the fore and aft sensor operation....this can trigger a PO420. However, I have no other codes thrown as you show ( no PO300, no PO17X codes at all)...and if these aren't there....can we safely assume I should direct my attention only on the exhaust side? I have no idling issues or driveability issues either....just the far away turbine noise and the PO420 coming back. Oxygen sensors test fine and no sensor codes are thrown either.
Why do my rpms go up and down like crazy but the car runs perfectly fine, like literally perfect, I accelerate it, no problem at all, happens here and there tho not every time , but when idling, car shakes a little and the needle is a little bit more down than where it’s suppose to be what could it be ?
Geo metro engine placed inside Suzuki Cultus ... EGR vacuum leak hoses connected wrong also a vacuum that connected to the fuel regulator if the fuel regulator sensor is stuck open you will burn more fuel
I have Mercedes-Benz 200, 123 Series from 1982 and it has a vacuum leak. I can't exactly make out where it's coming from but it's somewhere in the middle. Any tips to find it? Besides using carburator cleaner.
I have a lean fuel problem when starting, but once started it runs ok while cold but stalls out more when it starts getting hot. I had a vacuum leak that I fixed but there seems to be fluid in the vacuum lines, I changed the fuel pump about a year ago, the fuel filter a year ago and again a month ago, new tps, new thermostat, new fuel pressure sensor under the hood. I’ve taken of the throttle body, iac, egr, maf, and temp sensor and sprayed them with cleaner. It’s a 1997 Chevy blazer LS 2dr with 4wd and 4.3 vortex engine, I don’t have a fuse box under the hood that I can find. It seems like fuel pressure is low but watching these videos it seems like all the symptoms I have could be anything in any of these videos but the main difference I see is mine gets worse when it warms up not better. It does seem like a gasket could be leaking but I have stop leak in the oil and sealant in the coolant and I haven’t noticed the fluids mixing as of yet. And I don’t have any smoke from burn off from the engine. I put in a catalytic clean and an injector cleaner in it also which seemed to improve its performance some and made the engine light go off but still have a crank no start and stalls when I drive it too long, Any advise?? My next step was the fuel pressure regulator inside the manifold or the valve the vacuum hoses connect to on the transfer case. Yet I’m still not done with your videos, but I am learning a lot. Oh and the battery reset so I have no codes to go off of. But months ago before doing any of this I had a code for cat, egr, and hvac. Oh and the gas cap was relaxed a few years ago and radiator cap was replaced a few months ago and the battery is also new and battery terminals are new but wiring is a little questionable. Before the lean condition started I used to have to jump my car everytime I started it even after I got a new battery so I thought maybe a ground was out somewhere then this started happening so I haven’t ruled out bad wiring just yet.
Hey do you know why my car starts shaking for 2 sec and dies when I come to a stop when I pop it in neutral it stops and also is the car supposed to idol at like 500 to 750 rpm
The only code it is showing is 02 sensor which I replaced and I replaced spark plugs and coils and 2 engine mounts if ur wondering it's a 2011 hyundai sonata
I have a 2013 BMW M135i with the N55 engine. My car runs very bad when it’s cold outside. (extremely rough idle) The colder it is the worse it gets. At temperatures Below -15c / 5f the engine may even stall a few times. After a few minutes when the engine has been warmed up it runs perfectly fine. Could this be caused by a vacuum leak? Spark plugs and ignition coils have been replaced recently but that didn’t help at all. The previous owner of my car installed an open air filter and blow off valve. Maybe he did something wrong and ended up with a vacuum leak/boost leak? Please help me i don’t know what to do. i just bought the car 6 months ago and it’s the most expensive car i have ever owned.
Hi what's happening I find Ur channel very useful.... So I have a question about my 2008 tundra so my battery died from parking too long. Then went to replace it with new. Now when I connect the terminals the starter keeps cranking none stop. So I have to disconnect one of the terminals to get it to stop..what could cause this pls
Your 12v positive has a connection to the 12v trigger on the starter solenoid. That causes the starter to crank. Either figure out which wire doesnt go to 12v positive constant or replace starter.
@roundsm18 thx for responding. So I end up pulling the relay out then connect the battery terminals then switch the ignition to on and press the relay back into place. And the non-stop cranking stop. Now operating normal..👍
My 1997 Toyota Tacoma with A 2.4L engine starts but when warmed up and put in gear, even in reverse it stalls! My Blue Point code reader is pulling code PO 171 system to lean, PO 130 O2 circuit sensor 1, PO 133 O2 circuit slow response Bank 1 sensor. Any ideas on what to look for?
Basically all the symptoms is what I'm having lol. Thx much! I was worried that it was the engine going bad 😅
I don't recommend spraying carburetor cleaner around the engine! I had that happen one time ⌚ and ended up with a car fire 🔥! Luckily I had my fire extinguisher near by and put it out quickly.
Dawn dishsoap and water does for prophane leaks probably works for engines too
In a 2007 crown Vick when I put my foot on the gas it goes dead when I driving and it pop up a p0446
@@shunwallacewho are you talking to
wd40 works better and its not flammable
Oh my goodness it is so sad that you explained this so simple and 2 mechanics cant figure this out with my car or is too lazy to do so!!! I tried explaining this my self but Im not of mechanic of course!! Well! said!!!🙌🏾👏🏽👏🏽
How did you get it fixed because my mechanic refuses to listen to my opinion yet and says he can’t figure out what’s wrong but I know this is the problem
I had a vacuum leak coming from the small air box on top of my 05 Saturn L300’s engine. The rubber fitting around the intake was totally split open like a starfish. It would idle at over 1000 rpm, and run rough at lower RPMs. I went into Autozone and bought some heat shrink tubing, then walked across the street to a gas station and bought a lighter. Heat shrank the fitting closed with 1 tube, and then heat shrank another tube with excess bunched up around the intake to create a snug fit. It took a few tries to get it air tight, but eventually the suction noise stopped and the car started idling normally.
I had a vacuum leak because of three loose hose clamps. It caused the car to occasionally idle rough, headlights flickered because of poor idle, and the car would occasionally stall
You think this could happen if I have a broken air filter box, the 5 min oil broke🤬. I also have a coolant leak ?
@@user-pr5 yes it cause a vaccum leak
Excellent video as always my friend, but bit to FAST to comprehend all the info. Thank you.
I just bought a used Honda Civic. I’m experiencing these symptoms the RPM when I’m at a red light is very low. In fact, when I got the car I noticed that the hose to the engine air filter was off so I put that on wouldn’t be surprised if there’s a leak somewhere.
Spot on my man, i would only add speed density engines (map but no maf) react the opisite to vacum leaks. The engine runs higher rpm than normal beecause the computer adjusts for the pirate air. Maf and a map both on the engine they respond just like a maf, low idle and want to stall
I need help! I have a 2000 e320 Mercedes and I believe my problem could be a vacuum leak as well as a crankshaft position sensor, but idk. It hisses super loud and it misfires constantly and when it does so the check engine light flashes. And it won’t let me go above 20mph no matter what.
I went in for an alignment and the guy went to the parking lot and pulled my car into his shop. He then came back inside and told me, man you love your rite it’s so smooth u can’t even hear the car is on. Well rite when I pulled off it had a lack of power and few days later it was running horrible when cold startup till warm. It ended up being that the guy loosened all my intake manifold bolts. The question I have is why? They had 5 star reviews why me?
Im sorry to hear that.
Guy wanted you to come back in and get charged up the butt for a super easy repair that he knew how to easily fix.. I do all my own work because I have trust issues with mechanics, not everyone is out to get you but honest mechanics usually have a long wait and are more expensive- but not always!!
This is why i went to mechanic school and learned how to fix my own car.Slimy mechanics like the one you experienced are just about everywhere in these days and times and that includes at the dealership,yes especially at the stealership.They got me one time many years ago,i swore it’ll never happen again.
My car rough idles and low idles, after idling without ac on for 20 minutes, corolla wants to stall. It still does it with ac on but not as often and take longer for stalling. Still rough idle.
My gas cab caused a vacum leak the code was p0456 indicates evap system detected a small leak, i changed the gas cab and everything went to normal, note that the code calls for a vacum leak in the evap system not partically the gas cap
Appreciate your efforts. Thanks
I don't have stalling but at lower speed my rpm bounce up just a little then bounce back to normal idk what it is but got a feeling it's something like this happening
Sorted?
Very helpful video. Also could I just spray water instead of carb cleaner to find the leak?
O8 Aveo LS is notorious for intake leaks.
You have earned a subscriber
Thank you!
Excellent video, thank you!
Sounds like chris fix
Les3316 maybe they're Brothers
Very much appreciated and straight forward
My car might turn off when i'm going downhill and then let off the gas pedal instantly. It's a jdm 2004 forester sg9 sti. Could that be a vaccum leak?
Great video!! Loved it!
Mine sometimes dies straight after cold start. Triggered o2 codes. Slight hissing sound sometimes. Slightly lumpy idle like its gonna cut out. But 3 mechanics have said cant find air leak and one even used a smoke test
fuel pressure
@@TheBois434 turns out it was the connection from keyfob to WIN module. And also o2 sensor. Hissing was in my head haha
So I had a check engine light and cleared the code, ran the car for about 300km, high speeds. Then when I stopped, the check engine light came on again. It looks like a vacuum leak caused it.
Is that fine???? That I drove the car for quite a distance. Did not notice any performance issues so I thought it was ok. 😢
Could this happen only when the engine is cold?
For mine, it seems that the symptoms present themselves more when it is cold.
My 1996 Mazda Protege has all these exact symptoms, EXCEPT it runs better when it's cold. I can drive for about 15 minutes each day before it starts acting up. And if it's a hot day out, it sometimes starts acting up immediately.
I have a 2002 audi a4 3.0i quattro and it seems that I have a vacuum leak from under the intake actuator (pressure tested with smoke) it's not the side vacuum hoses, it literally come from under the middle of the intake manifold.. What could it be? I am suspecting intake manifold gaskets, but then why would the smoke come right from the middle... Any advice? Thank you in advance!
I have a 2005 highlander, I tried the cleaner but it I can't find any leaks, I want to try a smoke tester, but don't know where to plug it in. Please help! 2005 toyota highlander 4 cylinder. I appreciate your help
I don’t know if it’s a vacuum leak that’s causing the number one cylinder misfire with a code PO 316 but I know more now watching your video so I’m subscribing, thanks.
On my Toyota a cylinder one misfire was fixed with new spark plugs.
Any ideas common areas of a leak with a 2010 Infiniti G37? I'm finding low coolant levels along with dampness down the sides of the engine.. possibly valve cover or intake??
your water pump is going out.your gonna have to do your gallery gaskets while your there.leaking gallery gaskets will cause low oil pressure big job and check ur timing chain for slack
I have a 94 Camaro 3.4 v6 checked everything but intake leaks where would be the best place to start and it will start for a second and then immediately stall so it’s a major vacuum leak
Mates E46 currently has a very rough idle and intermittently misfires when running.
He's replaced a vacuum hose but the problem still remains
Could this be why my car accelerates without even hitting the gas pedal from a stop and gets up to 50 mph before I brake
Everytime I’m at a stop sign or red light and I’m on my brakes. My car rpm’s drop and it once died and turned back on. Any fixes?
Same here did u find out what was the problem
Brake booster consuming more vacuum at a stop. If there's a leak in vacuum. then there's not enough vacuum for other sensors to regulate air-fuel ratio causing problems
@@McWeldShit seen that on VW vortex, but i think it’s a fuel pump issue. Right before it’s about to stall I hear the pump hum and then the rpms jump up and down. Hasn’t been happening ever since I used some fuel cleaner
Can a vacuum leak trigger ONLY a PO420 code ?.... cat efficiency low? I'm chasing a far away turbo "whine" sound that could be an exhaust leak or intake leak. Seems to me to more likely be an exhaust leak before or at the cat, affecting the fore and aft sensor operation....this can trigger a PO420. However, I have no other codes thrown as you show ( no PO300, no PO17X codes at all)...and if these aren't there....can we safely assume I should direct my attention only on the exhaust side? I have no idling issues or driveability issues either....just the far away turbine noise and the PO420 coming back. Oxygen sensors test fine and no sensor codes are thrown either.
I gave a 2011 mustang gt how do yo check for vacuum leak
If I don't have a engine light on can the code still show on the scanner ( with a cheaper scanner or does it have to be a expensive one to show ) ?.
Yee it stilll shows
Why do my rpms go up and down like crazy but the car runs perfectly fine, like literally perfect, I accelerate it, no problem at all, happens here and there tho not every time , but when idling, car shakes a little and the needle is a little bit more down than where it’s suppose to be what could it be ?
Watch the video again. Could be vacuum leak or faulty spark plugs.
My friends car older civic had p0171 lean code and ended up being a clogged fuel injector.
Geo metro engine placed inside Suzuki Cultus ... EGR vacuum leak hoses connected wrong also a vacuum that connected to the fuel regulator if the fuel regulator sensor is stuck open you will burn more fuel
Do bad clutch sensor
Vacuume pipe leak can cause rpm drop while u are on traffic?
What if i got all three of those cel codes would it definitely be a vacuum leak?
I have Mercedes-Benz 200, 123 Series from 1982 and it has a vacuum leak.
I can't exactly make out where it's coming from but it's somewhere in the middle. Any tips to find it? Besides using carburator cleaner.
Smoke machine test
Vacuum lines are cheap. Don't be cheap. Replace that shit and get up the road
I have a lean fuel problem when starting, but once started it runs ok while cold but stalls out more when it starts getting hot. I had a vacuum leak that I fixed but there seems to be fluid in the vacuum lines, I changed the fuel pump about a year ago, the fuel filter a year ago and again a month ago, new tps, new thermostat, new fuel pressure sensor under the hood. I’ve taken of the throttle body, iac, egr, maf, and temp sensor and sprayed them with cleaner. It’s a 1997 Chevy blazer LS 2dr with 4wd and 4.3 vortex engine, I don’t have a fuse box under the hood that I can find. It seems like fuel pressure is low but watching these videos it seems like all the symptoms I have could be anything in any of these videos but the main difference I see is mine gets worse when it warms up not better. It does seem like a gasket could be leaking but I have stop leak in the oil and sealant in the coolant and I haven’t noticed the fluids mixing as of yet. And I don’t have any smoke from burn off from the engine. I put in a catalytic clean and an injector cleaner in it also which seemed to improve its performance some and made the engine light go off but still have a crank no start and stalls when I drive it too long, Any advise?? My next step was the fuel pressure regulator inside the manifold or the valve the vacuum hoses connect to on the transfer case. Yet I’m still not done with your videos, but I am learning a lot. Oh and the battery reset so I have no codes to go off of. But months ago before doing any of this I had a code for cat, egr, and hvac. Oh and the gas cap was relaxed a few years ago and radiator cap was replaced a few months ago and the battery is also new and battery terminals are new but wiring is a little questionable. Before the lean condition started I used to have to jump my car everytime I started it even after I got a new battery so I thought maybe a ground was out somewhere then this started happening so I haven’t ruled out bad wiring just yet.
I am battling finding a vacuum leak on my ford focus st 225..on cold start up you can hear swish sound as car gets warm no sound
Smoke test
Truck doesn't start when I turn it key it clicks but wont start 2000 Montero sport xls
You need a new alternator
@@alexlavoie4795 Sound like a starter issue to me.
Hey do you know why my car starts shaking for 2 sec and dies when I come to a stop when I pop it in neutral it stops and also is the car supposed to idol at like 500 to 750 rpm
The only code it is showing is 02 sensor which I replaced and I replaced spark plugs and coils and 2 engine mounts if ur wondering it's a 2011 hyundai sonata
Also fixed a valve cover gasket but it's still leaking oil not from the valve tho
I have a 2013 BMW M135i with the N55 engine.
My car runs very bad when it’s cold outside. (extremely rough idle) The colder it is the worse it gets.
At temperatures Below -15c / 5f the engine may even stall a few times.
After a few minutes when the engine has been warmed up it runs perfectly fine.
Could this be caused by a vacuum leak?
Spark plugs and ignition coils have been replaced recently but that didn’t help at all.
The previous owner of my car installed an open air filter and blow off valve. Maybe he did something wrong and ended up with a vacuum leak/boost leak?
Please help me i don’t know what to do. i just bought the car 6 months ago and it’s the most expensive car i have ever owned.
Did you fix the problem?
Po302 ? Vacuum leak 20p6 Subaru sti
any body got anything on honda idsi engine? specifically city 1.5 idsi
أحسنت
Good job
Thank you!
Please use lambda thanks
Hi what's happening I find Ur channel very useful.... So I have a question about my 2008 tundra so my battery died from parking too long. Then went to replace it with new. Now when I connect the terminals the starter keeps cranking none stop. So I have to disconnect one of the terminals to get it to stop..what could cause this pls
Your 12v positive has a connection to the 12v trigger on the starter solenoid. That causes the starter to crank. Either figure out which wire doesnt go to 12v positive constant or replace starter.
@roundsm18 thx for responding. So I end up pulling the relay out then connect the battery terminals then switch the ignition to on and press the relay back into place. And the non-stop cranking stop. Now operating normal..👍
Tighten the gas cap - you are welcome, I just saved you $100-$1500 😄
So confident yet so wrong...
Lies evap canisters
My 1997 Toyota Tacoma with A 2.4L engine starts but when warmed up and put in gear, even in reverse it stalls! My Blue Point code reader is pulling code PO 171 system to lean, PO 130 O2 circuit sensor 1, PO 133 O2 circuit slow response Bank 1 sensor. Any ideas on what to look for?
OXYGEN SENSOR BUD. OR OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT SLOW RESPONSE.
Ford exption 5.4 lean code break goes to the floor would the break booter do that