Raise height of your RV trailer WITHOUT flipping the axles, under $30
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- čas přidán 30. 03. 2018
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YOU'VE BEEN WARNED, Don;t be like the owner who had this mess.
DUE TO SELLER - RV HUSTLERS ON YT, Comments are on approve only unless otherwise stated.
Actually gets to the point at 4:15. You’re welcome!
THANK YOU...
Hahaha. Thanks👍
🤪👍🏽
I thought I had an original Idea... I guess you beat me to it. I’ll be doing this to our 26’ enclosed utility trailer this coming week.
Great tutorial, nice job on a lovely old RV, they don’t make’m like that anymore.
Agree fllipping axles adds 5 inch where 2 and a halve inch is good going to do mine then running a cross member across side to side in front of hangers same on rear also at centre hangers
This very dangerous to do!!! The side force on the hangers is too much. If anyone is wanting to do this please don"t.
A much and safer option is to buy a thick C channel or even square tube and run it parallel to trailer frame. Even a 2"X6" square tube running the length of the spring hangers and then putting on standard size hangers.
You should not trust 3/16" pieces of steel hanging that low!! You are endangering yourself and everyone on the road!!
Never did like the idea of flipping the axles. Good to see a bit more sense used and extra support added.
I thought about doing this but how to hold up my trailer was not a easy solution but the way he did it may be easier.
This cost under $26 in total materials, parts from amzn.to/2uyCS4o , that includes welding wire and some WD40!
Pay Attention DIY folks - Most trailers are universal based on the axle weights, but always measure, ask, verify and get the right parts. AND be safe, use lots of supports if needed.
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I need your shop. I have to find the right guy. You made it seem not so crazy to grab a couple more inches, even on my 20 footer.
We need to do this to our RV. It’s a holiday rambler. We’ve taken out 2 stabilizers due to being to low.
Great informative video!
And when I say drop the axle, I mean make it so the axle mounts onto the springs from the bottom instead of how they manufactured them until 2000 and that would basically lift it the same way, and all you gotta do is unbolt two bolts on each spring so you can drop the axle out. Make sure you still got the axle crown still pointing up and weld the new ears on it. I have a 19 6724 foot shyster camper and I just dropped the axles and I could put 16 inch rims on the axle and still have 3 1/2 inches of travel clearance
What a great idea!
I have seen this done before, and also watched a video placed on the chassis - afterward, as it went down the road.
The extended mounts swayed and flexed with the road conditions. It was almost painful to watch.
I spent the money an a Dexter over/under spring kit. Not expensive.
Good job!. There are other ways to accomplish the same thing, by installing a square tube the entire length with new brackets but this will work just fine.
In this setting, three cross braces are needed for solidity. Or put MorRyde SRE 4000, get a lift of +2.5 ". Bad budget, but fast.
Huh?
Just out of curiosity, why didn’t you just buy new you bolts and the axle dropping kit where it’s a axle ear you got a well done you’re gonna get the same amount of lift with that and not compromising the axles integrity on the frame not saying you’re a bad welder it’s just you know a lot of these people that watch videos just so that they can do this. You can’t just watch a video and learn how to welda solid weld so it’s a lot easier to weld on New axel ears so you can actually put pillow blocks on it in the long run
Just curious, was there another reason you wanted it higher? Couldn't you just swapped the rubber with 225/75-15 and saved all the trouble?
It all started with using a 8k capacity 3 inch drop hitch to keep the trailer level in tow, then dragging the trailers ass when going in and out of places due to how low it was, big PROBLEM!
SOLUTION - With the 6000 lb axles and 12" brakes to get more height I changed to 16" wheels with 225/85/16 tires from the originals which were 225/75-15 gaining 1.25" in height, the result was not enough safe travel clearance in the fender wells (which I measured for and expected), so adding 2 more inches by extending and beefing up the mounts gave me the 3 inches I needed to match both my 3/4 ton Truck and my 1 ton vans receiver heights so my one best straight 12k hitch with anti sway built in could be used on all my 6 trailers.
Glad to see you welded on extra supports. Those original mounts did not look real strong to start with.
They really needed some Hillbilly extra on them.
Wow you traded a old engine for that, so nice. What was the engine worth?
It was a 6.5 Diesel, had 133,400 miles on it and came from a mid 1990's motor home I got on a salvage deal for $50. This Jayco would sell for about $5500 so a $2000 engine I got for $50 was not a bad swap!!!
You guys build some huge trailers to camp in, thats not camping in that thing, thats the size of my flat. WOW.
Well, you need no space for hunting stuff in those in Australia! So tiny works. In USA we need room for shooting gear and ammo! Plus a Moose or Elk!
Unless your in Canada, they are just stupid here now.
I’d trust them old tires more than them welds
What is hiegth?
Where can i find that metal part?
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2380057.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xtraile%2Bsuspension.TRS0%26_nkw%3Dtraile%2Bsuspension%26_sacat%3D0&campid=5337842430&toolid=20008
That link will take you to hanger options, this one may help also rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp2334524.m570.l1313.TR5.TRC1.A0.H0.TRS0%26_nkw%3DTrailer%2BSpring%2BHanger%2B%26_sacat%3D0%26LH_TitleDesc%3D0%26_odkw%3Dtrailer%2Bsuspension%26_osacat%3D0&campid=5337842430&toolid=20008
Thanks
Why wouldn’t they just have installed new tires on the 15 inch wouldn’t have been more economical than welding all this stuff in and switching the 16 inch?
Ever hear of image stabilization? I didnt think so.
Will this work on any trailer?
Just about, anything with a leaf spring design can be done.
As a insurance agent if someone ever gets into a accident with a rv after that kind of homemade modification definitely lost their coverage...
I'm wondering how you would have insured one or cover a wreck on one with those little 1" welds on its hangers it had to start with. Now it is balanced, no longer swinging when towed, triple the welds, 9 spars from upper frame to hanger it never had, I have had no fear in the last 10K miles towing it that it will do great.
Only way you cannot be liable as far as my company is concerned is if you get a DOT inspection of the trailer. That also includes homemade trailers. Just saying wouldn't hurt to get a DOT inspection and keep the report.
Why not just put the correct size tires on it. Raising the center of gravity can make it dangerous to tow.
FOR YOUR HEAVIER RVS LIKE YOUR FIFTH WHEELS AND STUFF. TRIPLE AXEL WITH THE WEIGHT DO YOU STILL THINK THAT WILDA'S GOING TO BE SAFE
You just add stronger welds and metal proportionate to the need. People seem to ignore the whole frame is welded. 75% is spot welds, and Even with over 20K miles on this job I keep hearing about how it will fail in the first 5 feet.
How did you lift all 4 tires?
By adding supports and spring mounting hardware extensions. And upgrades to 16" wheels and tires. Got me 3" +
I think my question was misleading, sorry. What i would like to know before your hard work how did you get the trailer in the air too work on? Im new at this and was told to lift tires in air to avoid tire damage when stored. Thanks 🙏
I put 4x4 lumber under it across the frame where I could see good support about 6 feet in front of the front axle, and 6 feet behind the back axle then using floor jack I lifted it 2" at a time close to the main frame then put Jack Stands in place as I shifted from side to side lifting in stages.
PS - Tomorrow check back, I'll put links to items to use for setting one of the ground.
👍
Much easier to just flip the axles. Just make sure the bow in the axle is up and the brakes are the right way. Easy. No welding needed...
Flipping axles is illegal in 14 states. California, New York, Maine, New Hampshire, Michigan, Washington, Oregon, Illinois, Minnesota, Colorado, New Mexico, Delaware, Vermont, and Iowa. Only legal in 3 states with a inspection and permit to do so. West Virginia, Florida and Texas. So flip at your own risk for sure. $650 fine in California now. Our need was only about 2 inches, flipping would have given us almost 4-1/4.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I guess it's a good thing I live in Canada where it's not illegal then :). I just put new axles on my 1988 Terry last year and it had flipped axles for almost 30 years. I'm not worried about any risk. I flipped the new ones too.
testament to American made tires, Thank you Bill Clinton
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Deathtrap... should not do this!
Explain! We got over 8000 miles on another done the same way, 4200 miles on this one. So why is 2x the metal and welds a death trap?
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Your fine , i find life easier and more enjoyable when you dont feed the trolls. Good video.
Good job but you said nothing about the hub breaks that old of a trailer come on a no brainer
Think I wouldve just put the axles under the springs.
A thought but "flipping" Thats Illegal in about 26 states.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 there are manufacturers that sell kits to move the axles from atop the springs, to below the springs.
With new spring seats, so the axel can maintain the proper camber on the axle.
I would never "flip" an axle. Especially if it had brakes.
I hear ya about it being illegal in several states.
This can be very dangerous!
Quick and cheap way to lift a small trailer, yes, but you should not be giving ideas like this to so many viewers that now think they can modify a large trailers suspension because they have a welder.
What you did was not properly engineered.
There are many more forces at play when it’s on the road.
For starters, you should have a cross brace between the new lower points, and clean welds, that don’t have to be grinded afterwards,
But honestly the old hangers (or subframe) should have been cut off and new drop hangers or new subframe installed. Then proceed to cross brace and weld properly without overheating the frame or hangers.
Cheap and fast? Yes. Does it lift the trailer? Yes. Can the new loads shear a bolt, crack a weld, or break a leaf spring and kill someone on the road? Yes.
Food for thought for sure. Its only got about 8,500 miles of road travel on it since the modification so I guess time will tell. Probably running the vertical braces on it from frame to pivot bolt point was a odd creation of a weak point and plating it inside from frame down was just to make it look cooler, but in 32 years of building 60+ complete trailers I was never told I needed a engineer for any thing like this. I got one thats had over 70,000 road miles before I sold it, a King of the Road 5th wheel. This is about the 30th such modification like it in the last 20 years, I probably should contact Chanute Trailers and tell them to stop doing it too since they probably done 100's as far back as I can remember.
You should change the name of the video to check out my trailer halfway through it and haven't seen s*** about raising the height
Yeah, I agree. Probably showing the how its made tour and reasons it has to gain height was pointless to many.
That does not look safe
How? Explain your worries.
I agree ,with drivers now days turning and hitting curbs or an object puts a bunch of pressure on the front hangers.
This is the worst idea. Ever
Flipping the axle seems like would have been easier
Holy fuck get to the point