That's a sweet system you've built. We put both our battery banks in a climate-controlled environment too, so I don't have to worry about our BMS shutting down charging because they got too cold, or their life reduced from excessive heat. Though we have a huge solar system, we retained our 5,500w MH generator as a security blanket. We haven't needed to run it (other than to exercise it) for over 6 months. We have a Sungold Power all-in-one 5,000w inverter, 100a charge controller/charger. This allowed me to configure my system so if I run my generator or am hooked up to shore power, it sends 20amps (at 54 volts) or 1,080 watts to charge the battery, so the rest of its roughly 4,400w potential output can be used to run the coach. So, whatever my solar is putting out will go to charge the battery too (up to 100 amps total) rather than being used to run our air conditioners, TV, microwave, etc. There are many other ways to configure the system, but this is just how we have ours set to function.
Hey thanks for checking this system out! Definitely best to bring the batteries somewhere controlled. Sounds like you have a sweet setup thats working great for you! You're right there are so many ways to design something that works for your intended RVing style. The generator backup is a great option and how awesome that you haven't needed it. How much solar do you have feeding that 100a controller?
I really like the way ORV and Northwood design the little cubby under the floor and behind the trailer A-Frame (Tongue). It allows re-routing the original factory wiring into the under bed storage area. I did this on my Nash 17k.
@@mytsolar I had a Nash 17k. I went straight vertical through the floor, into the front pass through. I drilled pretty far forward in the little wiring cubby, which put my hole very close to the front wall of the front pass through bay. I mounted my Victron Multiplus 2k and pair of Battleborns in the "under the bed: storage bay, which was wight aft of the front pass through.
Awesome tips!! We just purchased the 2023 OVR 24RLS. I’m looking to do the same install of the generator…we don’t have that extra cubby on the slide side only the pass through. Do recommend installing the generator on that front passthrough? Thanks again for a great video
Are you adding an on-board generator to a 24RLS? Thats a big project. You're turning a Timber Ridge into a Backcountry series basically. We don't exactly deal with generators, we create solar/lithium systems to either replace them or prevent using them as much.
@@mytsolar thank you very much for your reply. Yes I was wanting to basically turn it into a backcountry series and have the redundancy of solar and generator. I know with your solar install and battery infrastructure, it will mainly eliminate and need for any type of generator. I guess I’m always overbuilding whatever I have. Thank you very much for all your videos. They are amazing.
I know this answer will be a SWAG but roughly how much solar for a truck slide-in camper is needed? It will most likely, still debating model, a Onan 2500w unit but not enough solar in my opinion. Lance 1172 is what I am looking at.
I have a truck camper. I had 300 watts on my first truck camper, an Arctic Foc 811. I sold that camper in 2020 after having it 10 years and upgraded to an AF 992. I still don't have solar on my 992. How much solar "you need" (or want) really comes down to how much battery power will you be using in a given day. If you are just using lights, water pump, stereo, etc., 300-400 watts is likely more than sufficient. If you have an inverter, and use it to power a TV, Laptop or other AC appliances, maybe more solar will be needed.
I always suggest as much solar on the roof as possible. Unless you have a 45ft 5th wheel and 5000W you'll always wish for more solar. We've put 600W on a truck camper before. There isn't much room so 600W-800W is usual. The generator will be a nice backup.
Agree 3-400W for low use 12v items would be plenty. The 12v compressor fridges change that equation a little bit. They're a long term 12v draw. I would say 400-600W would be a good starting point but yes when the inverter goes in and you can use microwave/coffee etc it will demand more power.
That's a sweet system you've built. We put both our battery banks in a climate-controlled environment too, so I don't have to worry about our BMS shutting down charging because they got too cold, or their life reduced from excessive heat.
Though we have a huge solar system, we retained our 5,500w MH generator as a security blanket. We haven't needed to run it (other than to exercise it) for over 6 months. We have a Sungold Power all-in-one 5,000w inverter, 100a charge controller/charger. This allowed me to configure my system so if I run my generator or am hooked up to shore power, it sends 20amps (at 54 volts) or 1,080 watts to charge the battery, so the rest of its roughly 4,400w potential output can be used to run the coach. So, whatever my solar is putting out will go to charge the battery too (up to 100 amps total) rather than being used to run our air conditioners, TV, microwave, etc. There are many other ways to configure the system, but this is just how we have ours set to function.
Hey thanks for checking this system out! Definitely best to bring the batteries somewhere controlled. Sounds like you have a sweet setup thats working great for you! You're right there are so many ways to design something that works for your intended RVing style. The generator backup is a great option and how awesome that you haven't needed it. How much solar do you have feeding that 100a controller?
Hi Tom, it was nice to meet you yesterday.
You too Larry! Safe travels
I really like the way ORV and Northwood design the little cubby under the floor and behind the trailer A-Frame (Tongue). It allows re-routing the original factory wiring into the under bed storage area. I did this on my Nash 17k.
It sure makes it a big help! How did you come from the square/cubby to the bed on the Nash?
@@mytsolar I had a Nash 17k. I went straight vertical through the floor, into the front pass through. I drilled pretty far forward in the little wiring cubby, which put my hole very close to the front wall of the front pass through bay.
I mounted my Victron Multiplus 2k and pair of Battleborns in the "under the bed: storage bay, which was wight aft of the front pass through.
Awesome tips!! We just purchased the 2023 OVR 24RLS. I’m looking to do the same install of the generator…we don’t have that extra cubby on the slide side only the pass through. Do recommend installing the generator on that front passthrough?
Thanks again for a great video
Are you adding an on-board generator to a 24RLS? Thats a big project. You're turning a Timber Ridge into a Backcountry series basically. We don't exactly deal with generators, we create solar/lithium systems to either replace them or prevent using them as much.
@@mytsolar thank you very much for your reply. Yes I was wanting to basically turn it into a backcountry series and have the redundancy of solar and generator. I know with your solar install and battery infrastructure, it will mainly eliminate and need for any type of generator. I guess I’m always overbuilding whatever I have. Thank you very much for all your videos. They are amazing.
@4:00 could you fit a 4th Battery in there? 🤔🙏🙏
Definitely! We'll be doing that soon.
I know this answer will be a SWAG but roughly how much solar for a truck slide-in camper is needed? It will most likely, still debating model, a Onan 2500w unit but not enough solar in my opinion. Lance 1172 is what I am looking at.
I have a truck camper. I had 300 watts on my first truck camper, an Arctic Foc 811.
I sold that camper in 2020 after having it 10 years and upgraded to an AF 992. I still don't have solar on my 992.
How much solar "you need" (or want) really comes down to how much battery power will you be using in a given day. If you are just using lights, water pump, stereo, etc., 300-400 watts is likely more than sufficient.
If you have an inverter, and use it to power a TV, Laptop or other AC appliances, maybe more solar will be needed.
I always suggest as much solar on the roof as possible. Unless you have a 45ft 5th wheel and 5000W you'll always wish for more solar. We've put 600W on a truck camper before. There isn't much room so 600W-800W is usual. The generator will be a nice backup.
Agree 3-400W for low use 12v items would be plenty. The 12v compressor fridges change that equation a little bit. They're a long term 12v draw. I would say 400-600W would be a good starting point but yes when the inverter goes in and you can use microwave/coffee etc it will demand more power.