Im surprised you have not moved to uv epoxy. I seen in one of your lives that you have a uv nail dryer. I'v used probbly 5 2-part epoxys and kbs. I will not use anything but alumi-uv. I have baits that have been through literaly 200 to 300 pike and it hardly scratches. And its a 30 secound dry time with your uv nail dryer. The best part is you dip the bait. You can controle the thickness of your coats by heating and cooling the resin. I use a mini crock pot. It fits the can in it perfect. Then i fill it with water around the can. Also there is no hurry with the stuff. It olny cures under uv lights. So you have a open working time.
Having trouble with resins like this and Envirotex on my maple hardwood lures. Everything is done correctly, the wood is dries, the paints are thoroughly dried, the resin is thoroughly cured, the finish is good until it hits the water. Shallow water seems ok. Once the lure dives into deeper, colder water, the resin cracks and splits open exposing the acrylic paint. Any ideas?
Dan D Did you seal the wood before painting? I’m no expert with wood lures though. I don’t carve myself. I’ve switched to AlumiUV since this video was made also.
Pick up a small digital scale. You can more accurately measure 1:1 mixes. And less mess as there won't be a need for the spoons Put cup on scale , hit the tare button to zero the scale. Pour part one in. ( 4 grams ) pour part 2 in ( total 8 grams.) Perfect 4/4 mix or what ever amounts needed.
Thank you!!! This is a video I needed to see.
Love the Disco ball rack. I need to get me one of those.
Approx how many baits can you coat with a teaspoon of both the hardner and the resin?
Im surprised you have not moved to uv epoxy. I seen in one of your lives that you have a uv nail dryer. I'v used probbly 5 2-part epoxys and kbs. I will not use anything but alumi-uv. I have baits that have been through literaly 200 to 300 pike and it hardly scratches. And its a 30 secound dry time with your uv nail dryer. The best part is you dip the bait. You can controle the thickness of your coats by heating and cooling the resin. I use a mini crock pot. It fits the can in it perfect. Then i fill it with water around the can. Also there is no hurry with the stuff. It olny cures under uv lights. So you have a open working time.
Adam Johnson I do use AlumiUV now 😁
@@coloradocustomlures6229 oh ok. Was just trying to help if you didn't know about it yet.
Adam Johnson it’s all good! This video was filmed quite a while ago and I have since switched to truecoat and then to AlumiUV 😊
Having trouble with resins like this and Envirotex on my maple hardwood lures. Everything is done correctly, the wood is dries, the paints are thoroughly dried, the resin is thoroughly cured, the finish is good until it hits the water. Shallow water seems ok. Once the lure dives into deeper, colder water, the resin cracks and splits open exposing the acrylic paint. Any ideas?
Dan D Did you seal the wood before painting? I’m no expert with wood lures though. I don’t carve myself. I’ve switched to AlumiUV since this video was made also.
@@coloradocustomlures6229
Yes I did thanks. I have years of experience with this but, not the resins
Dan D I would recommend the Lure Making & Painting Group on Facebook. They will probably have better advice than me. Good luck!
East coast resins super gloss loves wood
It’s gotta be dry dry dry
You should check out the disposable mix cups from Golfsmith.com for the resin they are cheap and marked for measurement. Love the post thanks.
mike gray I actually don’t use epoxy anymore! I use AlumiUV but thank you for the tip for others!
Pick up a small digital scale.
You can more accurately measure 1:1 mixes. And less mess as there won't be a need for the spoons
Put cup on scale , hit the tare button to zero the scale. Pour part one in. ( 4 grams ) pour part 2 in ( total 8 grams.)
Perfect 4/4 mix or what ever amounts needed.
TheJim91303 I switched to syringes a long time ago but have since switched to AlumiUV
Great idea