How to : Klipper First Config - PART 2 "TAP"
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- čas přidán 3. 05. 2023
- In this video, as part of my Voron 2.4 R2 Build, we're updating our code in the printer.cfg file! This time around we're going to disable that pesk old z-endstop and enable the magical Tap!
Tap really take the place of a couple of things in this configuration! We no longer need a Z-Endstop, nor do we need an additional probe! TAP DOES IT ALL!!!
The next few videos (3-5 of them) will be shorter and specific to parts of MY configurations. I'll do my best to point out the major things to watch out for. Soon we'll button this Voron 2.4 R2 printer up!
**BIG THANKS TO PATRONs: SK3D, Marc Davis, Brad Nohra, Run Buh **
**Run Buh is the newest to the list WELCOME, and special thanks!**
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Main information for this process:
github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-... - Věda a technologie
This is an essential reference . So good to see the close up of the PC split screen . Making sure of the alignment of the code lines is a lifesaver . I've learnt many small undocumented details .like the utility of the Search function , that the end of the printer.cfg isn't yet written when its a fresh install , that some variables are not neceserrily defined. Excellent video that beautifully achieves its aim.
I try. Some videos are good, others are... okay... One shoe size never fits all - but I'm thrilled when I hear that I helped another person! Thanks!
This has been a great series on the LDO kit build. My LDO Voron 2.4 is currently on a ship from China to the UK and I'll be rewatching your videos whilst building my printer. Cheers.
Elliot - Great to hear. I did this series to, hopefully, provide as much detail as possible. Let me know if you have an questions along the way!
Great video Kermit, I will be adding my tap soon and will use your video as a resource.
Any time! If you need anything specific you know where to find me!
Thank you so much again!
Glad to be of help!
Thanks for another great video. Two things that someone may mention somewhere else:
1)it’s really bad form to comment out unneeded code and add additional comments as to why you did so. You should just delete it. It degrades the quality of the file. This applies to the boilerplate from the LDO template as well. You should delete the commented out blocks relating to features your specific machine doesn’t have (including the 250mm&350mm machines) as well.
2) your indentation is wrong, and the original was right (for the activation gcode). Conditional blocks always have uniform and matching indentation. An ‘else’ always is at the same level as an if and an ‘end’ (if the language has an end statement). One issue you may encounter is whether spaces or tabs are used to indent, and if spaces, how many spaces are used. In Python for example, you will find both tabs and spaces, and for the spaces, 2,3,4, and 8 are all common. So when cutting & pasting source from different authors, this needs to be corrected, as in Python differences can cause the code to break. I haven’t checked if the Klipper macro config files it is required to be uniform or not. But the source you had on the screen showed correctly matched levels, even if they used non-matching indentation as compared to your file.
1) Totally agree - Once folks have things sorted and have a good feel for what each line does. I leave some comments to help others - and once in a while to remind me of things.
2)The original caused a fault whenever I attempted to run the printer. I totally agree the indents look a little off, but it wound NOT run with "proper" indent. Interesting about the spaces vs the tab. It USED to be a big no-no to use spaces where you could use a tab, due to the inflated code... But I That was back when you could do a lot with 100k. I'll take an updated look at some point - shoot me an email at some point, you seem to have a programming knowledge - I'm always willing to learn new tricks. My Python is limited to micro controller code. kerm@builditbasement.com
Thanks!
Thank you for the thanks and - again I'm happy to help with or without the incentive!
@@BuildItBasement I am happy to support what you're doing, on this endeavor with you even if it is my first build and your already a pro.
Very helpful. My printer is a Voron 2.4R2 Version C with Tap. I just started a Benchy print and the nozzle was dragging along the bed (Z offset: 0). I did a live Z adjustment to 0.7 and it seems a lot better. Are we supposed to supply an adjustment factor in the printer.cfg file or is this part of the tuning process?
Setting your z is part of the basic tune. Guess I know what my next quick video will be
I have de confg like your your but when i do the all home the z axe does not stop. Someome can help me.
Do you have a CNC tap? if so, did you install the X-end stop extension? github.com/Chaoticlab/CNC-Tap-for-Voron/blob/master/STL/XY_Switch_Adapter/CNC_Voron_TAP_XY_Switch_Adapter_V2.stl
Thanks the issue was a wire
@@BuildItBasement
In printer.cfg in the QGL section it has the corners of the gantry set to whatever was in the baseline config. How do you know that your build plate is in the same position as the base line? You probably don't know so how do you modify the corners? Just where are physical corners? Once we know where the physical comers are, you can modify the values in the config file and then QGL might take fewer transits around the bed plate!
The QGL is not really dependent on the bed, other than a stable, frame-attached part of reference. The QGL is leveling the Z-steppers for the gantry so the actual probe locations aren't overly important. The printer already knows where X/Y homes are (Z2) so when it does the QGL it's really just referencing the bed as a frame-attached flat surface. The further to the edges you probe would make things easier and possibly slightly more precise - however, the predefined locations allow for precision and better chances of a good probe since they tend to be near the square of the attachment points (for the bed). If you broke your bed into quads you could probe anyplace in those quads and do the QGL. (This is based on my experience and what I understand things to be) I'd be happy to learn more! Please share if you have any information that provides different insights.
Is that the 3do nozzle cam? How you setup? I can't get mine going.
That is the 4k 3DO camera. Setup will be part of my next video, Neo pixels and cameras. What issue are you robbing in to?
@@BuildItBasement I am not getting picture. Not sure if I have setup right in crowsnest and Mailsail.
@@Rmilyard Understood! We'll the next video (by this weekend) will cover Neopixels and camera setup in Crowsnest. In short, you need to add the camera using the GUI and possibly make changes to the Crowsnest config file. If you are worried that the camera isn't working at all, you can connect it to a PC via USB and you should be able to see it/use it as a camera. (I'm actually going to make a macro camera for videos using another one of these 4k cameras!).
One thing I noticed different is yours crawls up to the nozzle temp, where as mine shoots right past it and comes back down. Did I miss a step in your videos?
Probably not. Have your side a PID tune on your hotend? It'll help with that issue. What hotend are you using.
@@BuildItBasement For now, the revo, but I have the rapido that I am going to install at a later date. Will go back and do another PID tune on it.
I have acm pannels on my trident, and for about a day, i thought sound was from something in the gantry. I put paper under the z mount between thr pannel and the sound is gone (for now)
I'll have to do something with either gaffers tape or loop-side velcro. There are a few places that get noisy, depending on the speed and direction. It's a little difficult to tell exactly where the noise is coming from, but I'm 98% sure it's the panels since when I apply pressure, the sound cuts down by ~80%.
@Build It Basement it most likely is the pannels, with the trident I can put my hand on the pannel while doing fast x moves, and 90% of the noise goes away. I would assume it's harder to do this on the 2.4
Where can i go to learn the way klipper works like the format of how to write lines correctly like example you talked about "indent"
Id like to learn about how, why and when you need to do stuff like that. I cant seem to find much on klipper. Ive never coded anything before, but ive magaged to get my printer set up and working on my own.
Good question - and I don't have a great answer! Here is what I can give you: www.klipper3d.org/Code_Overview.html Klipper is based on Python, so grammatically it is similar. Indents tend to be based on operations and what falls within or outside of a prior statement. With the hopes of not making things too complicated: docs.python.org/3/reference/grammar.html I too am still learning about Klipper! There is a lot that can be done.
@Build It Basement awesome thank you! I will start there. Thanks for your videos man!