How to remove and replace oil pan and pick up tube on an IS300 - Fixing a crushed or damaged oil pan
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- čas přidán 26. 08. 2024
- I made a mistake. I wasn't careful when jacking the car in my driveway, and the jack slipped off of the jacking point and crushed the oil pan and, presumably, the pick-up tube inside.
In this video I go into detail on removing the oil pan without pulling the motor, replacing the pick-up tube, and repairing the damaged oil pan. This applies to any 2JZ-GE or 2JZ-GTE equipped with a front sump oil pan, such as what came stock in the IS300, Altezza, Aristo, and GS300, and many 1JZ and 2JZ swapped S13, S14, S15 and other chassis because the front sump supplies the greatest clearance to sit the motor as far back into the engine bay on many cars.
Part numbers from Lexus (many IS300 parts are Lexus dealerships only in the US, some may be available from Toyota dealerships):
Oil pan (I repaired mine, did not replace it): 12102-46040
Oil baffle (mine was not damaged): 12121-46010
Pick-up tube/strainer: 15104-46070
pick-up tube/strainer gasket: 15147-46010
Toyota Seal Packing 103 FIPG (form in place gasket): 00295-00103
Music used, check these guys out on pixabay:
sanjaw startover (electronic) - NASSMOHA
Abandoned - hatgoki
Echoes - Burnished Bronze
Please note that I am not a professional or trained mechanic. Please don't attempt anything you see in my videos without adequate understanding of the potential hazards and risks associated to yourself, your car, and to the people and property around you. I claim no responsibility for damage or injury from any attempt by you or others to replicate any action shown or described in my videos.
pretty good video thanks! But could I suggest you watch Chris' video on GS300/IS300 for improvement. 1)lack of part#, 2)no detailed info on jack up or loose/remove motor mount, 3) some torque spec might be missing. 4)no explain why A->B and B-> adhesive left is different. Basically the rear screws remove lack of some details, which you spent most of time I guess.
I appreciate the feedback, I am definitely working to improve the quality of my work and sharing it with everyone! Part numbers are in the description, I'll be sure to mention that in future videos. Jacking up the front of the oil pan is something I glossed over. I don't remove the engine mounts, just undo the top nuts so the engine will clear the subframe. Removing the engine mounts completely involves removing the steering rack and lowering the subframe as well as lifting the motor. It is NOT a fun job, but one I've done twice. And yes, I don't mention some torque specs. As a rule, I highly recommend anyone working on their own car get a copy of the Factory Service Manual which usually lists torque specs. I don't know if the 10mm's on the bottom of the pan have a torque spec, you won't be getting a torque wrench on those rear bolts anyway, so I recommend "reasonably tight". I elaborate (ramble is more appropriate) on torque specs and feeling it for 10mm bolts in the middle of the video.
also there is 4 bolts in the sub frame for the motor mounts so you don't need to take those top bolts out.
Yeah I learned this later when I replaced the motor mounts with the SerialNINE poly units. Good tip, the bottom bolts are easier to access since you're in there anyway!
would you mind also give part# of oil screen filter and tube?
Pick-up tube/strainer: 15104-46070
This is in the description. The tube and screen come as one part.
Mine got exact same problem a few days ago - I used a rubber pad on floor jack that slipped off. But the most important part - the rear screws process you used fast forward. I'm not sure whether you jacked up the oil pan or engine or something. Can you clarify? mine is Gen2 GS300. thanks!
Yeah I mention that once you jack up the oil pan, refer to my other comment regarding how to do that. Those screws are really gnarly to get out, and really there wasn't a good method besides what I state in the video, which is to use a combination of a ratcheting 10mm wrench, the smallest socket wrench that you have, and your fingers. It took me probably 30 minutes to get them all out. Putting them back on was the same rodeo, lift the engine by jacking from the front now straightened pan, get behind the subframe and try your patience at finding each hole and threading each one back in. This took me maybe 45 minutes? I suggest getting something to prop your head up, I used a box of shop rags. After 10 minutes your neck muscles will want to give out.
Jack stand situation not looking reality safe brother..
The jack stands that it's on in the garage are good quality 3 ton rated, and they are supporting the pinch welds on each corner of the frame. This is a pretty common jack point and holding point for Toyotas in general, as they have stout pinch welds that are not long enough to bend like you see on some other Japanese and Euro cars. As far as when I was initially jacking the car, well, that's why we find ourselves in this situation! Definitely better to double check your positioning when lifting. To be clear, that center jack point on the subframe is the recommended jack point in the Factory Service Manual for the front end of the car. My mistake was that I was not a seated on it properly, resulting in a quick trip to the scrapyard for the oil pickup tube and a nose job for the oil pan!
I watched it again. looks like you omit the details of where/how to jack up engine. I see another video also hide it as the poster wants $550 for a change. Are you running a business?
Hey Joe, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I do not run a business doing this, it's just my hobby. So you're right, I do omit how to push up the motor, but I put a jack with a 2x4 on it and lift at the front of the oil pan. Just put it right on the bottom of the oil pan and lift. This is why we undo the motor mounts, so the engine will lift free. Once you put the oil pan back on, get all of the front bolts that you can reach snugged up and you can lift from the front of the oil pan again. I point right at the spot you can lay a 2x4 across the bottom front of the oil pan at 24:17 in the video, where the bottom of the pan starts to curve upwards. You can support the weight of the engine on the oil pan, just not the weight of the whole car, which is why we're in this problem to begin with!
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