How to Read Oil Paint Labels and Choose Lasting Pigments
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- List of lightfast and durable paints: www.dropbox.co...
It is downloadable as a PDF if you’d like to use it as a reference. There are over 100 paints listed; you won’t need them, but from that list, you can create your own unique palette. To simplify things, I’ve also created a couple of example palettes. The first one is for anyone looking for a basic set of colors to get started with. The second lists the colors that I use to paint wildlife. I encourage you to test out different colors and different brands to get a sense of what you like, just be sure to use artist-quality paints over student-quality paints.
Example Palette #1 (limited or beginner’s palette with just 6 colors)
- List as a PDF: www.dropbox.co...
- Titanium White No 1 (PW6): bit.ly/mh-tita...
- Cadmium Yellow (PY35): bit.ly/mh-cad-...
- Yellow Ochre (PY42): bit.ly/mh-yell...
- Cadmium Red (PR108): bit.ly/mh-cad-red
- Ultramarine Blue (PB29): bit.ly/mh-ultr...
- Burnt Umber (PBr6): bit.ly/mh-burn...
Example Palette #2 (the 12 staple colors currently on my palette)
- List as a PDF: www.dropbox.co...
- Ivory Black (PBk9): bit.ly/mh-ivor...
- Foundation White (PW1 and PW6): bit.ly/mh-foun...
- Cadmium Yellow Light (PY35): www.naturalpig...
- Yellow Ochre (PY42): bit.ly/mh-yell...
- Transparent Oxide Yellow (PY42): www.dpbolvw.ne...
- Cadmium Orange (PO20): www.naturalpig...
- Ercolano Red (PR102): www.naturalpig...
- Cadmium Red Deep (PR108): bit.ly/mh-cad-...
- Magenta (PR122): bit.ly/mh-magenta
- Phthalo Blue Lake (PB15:3): bit.ly/mh-phth...
- Cobalt Teal (PG50): bit.ly/mh-coba...
- Green Gold (PY129): www.jdoqocy.co...
*I am now using Michael Harding and Rublev oil paints so links have been updated*
How to read a paint label: www.winsornewt...
The Painter’s Handbook by Mark David Gottsegen: amzn.to/3dQyXEI
Feel free to ask any questions!
Want to see more? Check out...
My site: www.nikitacoul...
List of essential studio supplies: www.nikitacoul...
Instagram: / nikitacoulombe
Prints and merchandise: nikita-coulomb...
Note: this page contains affiliate links. If you decide to make a purchase through one of these links, I will make a small commission. There is no additional cost to you and your purchase supports the creation of more tutorials.
Timestamps:
0:34 - paint label information
4:57 - pigments to avoid (PR83 Alizarin Crimson and PW4 Zinc White - alternatives for these could be PR108 Cadmium Red Deep or one of the paints that uses PR149, and PW6 Titanium White, respectively)
7:11 - try different paints from the pool of lightfast and permanent pigments to develop your own unique palette; this will make your work feel more cohesive and be more recognizable (i.e. "oh that must be a so-so painting!")
I am so glad that you talk about colors in terms of pigment numbers. You seem to be much more diligent about that than some others content creators I have watched. I really appreciate how much information you put in your videos.
Your fox painting is beautiful. Even with the snow, it's beautiful; I'm not a fan of snow because I live in MN (need I say more? lol) But yes, snow does provide opportunity to add an element of contrast.
Ha! Yeah, it's clearer to go by pigment since manufacturers use different pigments in paints with the same name.
Thanks for this educational video! I was thinking of ordering a paint kit plus some canvases online and I'm glad I remembered you did a few videos on it.
I'm seriously trying to get started with painting no matter how silly it looks. I hope it relaxes my mind from all the stress at work.
Once again thanks for posting these wonderful artworks and inspiring people like me!
You're most welcome! The best thing to do is just... start. It may look silly but you can always toss whatever you don't like, although sometimes it's fun to hang onto old paintings so you can see how far you've come later on.
@@NikitaCoulombe Thanks for the great advice! :-)
Again another great video that I didn’t even consider 🤦🏻♂️. I have white that say PW4 and PW6🤷🏻♂️on the same tube. You’re like a think tank artist. I think everybody who is watching your videos is benefiting immensely. Yes I’m speaking for everyone 😂.
Thank you, you are too kind, Douglas! That'd be Zinc White (PW4) and Titanium White (PW6). A word of caution on Zinc White: some manufacturers have removed PW4 from their formulations because the latest research has shown it can cause a paint film to become brittle and crack. However, other manufacturers continue to use it, especially in blended paints containing multiple pigments (like Winsor and Newton, whose paints I usually love!). This article explains the issues well: www.naturalpigments.com/artist-materials/zinc-white-oil-paint-color
@@NikitaCoulombe thank you for the link. Every one of the whites I have are blended🤦🏻♂️ . Looks like Micheal Harding is the way to go( like you said) validated in the chart (PW6) only.
Michael Harding's Titanium White No 1 is great. Gamblin's Titanium White is fine too.
Hey there!
Great video, you've basically covered everything that needs be shared to those who might feel overwhelmed by the sheer extent of oil painting(I know I was in the beginning) especially when shopping for certain oil paints.
Also what you said about zinc white is so true! It seems to find its way into any type of oil paint nowadays. This certainly seems to be true if a paint color is advertised as a "lighter" shade of a natural color.. I'm sorry but Gamblin how in the world to you need 4 pigments to make a grey?!!??(yes..you Portland Grey, never again!!)
Finally, to close out being ur first comment lol, I just want to ask have you ever thought of trying Permanent Alizarin Crimson? It is said to be alot more permanent(no pun intended) then original formulated Alizerin Crimson, then again I prolly won't be around to know If my art will last centuries, or maybe I will but just won't know it was me who painted it?? 🤔 okay that's enough of me being philosophical, or maybe I am the reincarnated Michaelangelo?! 🤯 Lol jk....but not really.. I hope you continue making videos you earned my subscription!! 👍
Hi Matts, thank you! I did not know that about Portland Grey -- 4 pigments are definitely overkill -- sheesh! I checked out Winsor and Newton's Permanent Alizarin Crimson and the pigment is PR177 (Anthraquinone Red), which has a lightfast rating of I and looks like a close match though I haven't tried it. For a deep red, my default is Cadmium Red Deep (PR108). Sometimes I mix in Burnt Sienna (PR101) or Burnt Umber (PBr7) to make it more interesting. I've seen artists use Permanent Carmine (PV19), Winsor Red Deep (uses Perylene Red - PR149), and red shades of Quinacridone pigments as substitutes (generally solid pigments). There are some good options, thankfully :)
Hi, have you tried black oxide paints? They dry much faster than ivory black and are more neutral color wise. I use one more transparent and neutral, great to darken a color without changing much its caracter, and one more strong, slightly more bluish, but less than ivory black though.
I have and noticed that Black Oxide is warmer/more neutral when tinted than Ivory Black but it is not as black. It was more of a dark charcoal.
So, I've seen you use water mixable oils and regular oils. I am just getting into the water mixables and I was wondering if you can use them over traditional oils. I know you can use them together, but I haven't found any information about layering them
Winsor and Newton doesn't recommend mixing the lines: www.winsornewton.com/na/education/guides/how-intermixable-are-the-5-winsor-newton-oil-colour-ranges/
what does 3 stars lightfastness mean?
@@jap_m a lightfastness rating of III indicates fair lightfastness. For example, Alizarin Crimson has a lightfastness rating of III (or IV, which is poor lightfastness). Having fair or poor lightfastness means the color changes from exposure to light over time. Alizarin crimson will fade from deep red to pale pink.