I really like how detailed your video was. But in my opinion, if you’re only aiming for the piston ring, just take off spark plug wire, the top cover, the intake (leave intake off to the side with wires and hoses still connected) and you should be able to pull the head right off with the coil and exhaust still on. Switch out the ring, lube, and reverse. No need to separate the engine from the assembly. But that’s just how I do it.
@@glennfarrar3107 I used a piece of plastic from a bleach container. Cut a strip, wrapped it around the ring, pulled tight by tabs I made. Just bending the ends of the plastic at approximately 90 degrees. Then you can keep pressure on it so it slides in. Oil it up real good. I like assembly lube.
Thank you so much for such a detailed explanation. I followed your steps nd was able to repair my brush cutter by muself...luckily, parts were available at my local store. God bless you guys 😊
While a well made and thorough video. Aside from draining all the fuel for safety and less mess, I found you only need to remove the plastic shield, unscrew the carb and leave it hanging. Pop off the spark plug wire, then the 2 screws to remove the cylinder to have access to the piston. I don't even remove the muffler or spark plug.
Confirm your finding! I have to admit Echo is very well design and simple for maintenance. No wonder they sell millions of these trimmer around the world!
I didn't even remove the carb. Carb and exhaust still attached. The plug I pulled just so that I can test for resistance in the rotating assembly, make sure the bearings are good and I lubed it sufficiently.
Replacing a piston ring on an Echo weedeater involves several steps. Keep in mind that it's a detailed process, and if you're not comfortable with small engine repair, it's advisable to seek professional help. Here's a general guide: Safety first: Ensure the weedeater is turned off, and disconnect the spark plug to prevent accidental starts. Disassembly: Remove the engine cover, spark plug, and muffler. This will give you access to the cylinder. Remove the cylinder: Loosen and remove the bolts securing the cylinder to the engine. Gently lift the cylinder away, exposing the piston. Remove the old piston ring: Carefully take out the old piston ring. You may need to use a small pick or screwdriver to help lift it out. Clean the piston and cylinder: Wipe the piston and cylinder clean from any debris or carbon buildup. Make sure both surfaces are smooth. Install the new piston ring: Carefully slide the new piston ring onto the piston. Pay attention to the orientation specified by the manufacturer. Check and lubricate: Ensure all parts are securely fastened. Add a small amount of 2-stroke engine oil to the cylinder and piston to lubricate them. Reassemble: Put the cylinder back in place and secure it with the bolts. Reattach the engine cover, spark plug, and muffler. Test: Reconnect the spark plug, start the weedeater, and check for proper operation. Listen for any unusual sounds or vibrations. If you're unsure or uncomfortable with any step, it's recommended to consult the user manual for your specific model or seek assistance from a professional technician.
So much easier than the Troy bilt I worked on. Had to pretty much disassemble the entire thing to fix the pull rope. I just use it for the pole saw and have an echo trimmer. I’ll be buying another echo when the time comes. Or going electric.
You forget to clean the piston.. I'm always clean the piston head and groove.. Next time use a piston groove cleaner... And clean the cylinder as well.. Good job 👍
I am restoring a old weedeater right now and the engine is actually in really good shape, i thought about putting a new set of rings, when i went to price them they wanted 35 dollars for them,lol, not gonna happen, they should be 15 dollars for the pair if that, im trying to find alternative or maybe a different brand, no rush at all on it,just a little fun project.
Why the hell would you remove the flywheel and starter pawl to change a piston ring? On that note, if you're not changing the cylinder, you don't even need to take anything off. Just undo the two head bolts and remove everything at once. Also you didn't torque the head bolts upon reassembly nor mention that this needs to be done. Seems like a vital piece of information that was missed. For anyone who wants to know, Echo's spec for these bolts are 60-85in/lb.
what is the ohm spec tolerance of the coil? What is the piston ring tolerance up to the point where crank pulse is too weak to push and pull fuel from the carb? And, will not replacing the head gasket , if it has visible wear just at the bolt holes, after pulling the head lower the crank pressure such that hard starting or no starting occurs?
At first I ws scared to open the piston section of the engine ... as i needed to change the seal, replace gaskets, clean the pistonhead and engine head where spark plug sits... my brush cutter lost its compression and switched off itself. But now its running like new 😊😊
@@seabass22 Not really sure what they meant by those comments,there is nothing to taking this thing apart and putting it back together,guess they have never taken a Auto trans apart,lol
@@seabass22 Check this out,this is a older one, the new ones have twice as many parts, ha ha ha ha www.scribd.com/doc/73686489/AOD-Transmission-Schematic
installed new ring and cylinder gasket and still only pulls 45psi for pas 225. the ring takes a bit of effort to seat, about like whats in the video... but maybe the upper portion of head is egged?
Either I missed it or , you didn't clean the piston gap where the new ring goes ? Was it already clean ? No carbon fouling ? Why take it all apart if your not going to replace the crankcase seals ? You can gap the magneto with the crankcase still bolted to the clutch cover and you didn't check yhe exhaust screen for carbon fouling ? Not being a smart butt or anything just curious ? Also why remove the carburetor at all ?
You don't have to detach the engine from the frame only for a piston ring replacement. With the plier that's how you break a clutch and a recoil paul ratchet. There's pistons stops and and tools to do that without risk. This is a job that takes just 15 min.
Need help with an issue inhave with my husqvarna trimmer 128ld. I changed the cylinder and piston, i also calibrate the magnets in the flywheel, I have a conpression of 100psi, new spark plug(sparks good), new carb, new fuel lines. It wont start. Any ideas?
Thanks! I wonder one thing about the piston-ring. Does it have to be loosen 100% or 80% to work properly? Is it also a scratch-mark where on the piston where the ring can not move pass left or right of the scratch-mark with the opening of the piston ring, does it stop circulate at the piston at the scratch-mark? How can you see if the piston-ring is bad or wornout?
Thanks for sharing. Look easy take all apart. I won’t be able to put everything back. I leave it to the professional OR buy a new one cheaper than get it repair. Lol.
Replacing the piston ring makes a great video but my experience is that the trimmer still will not run. Whatever destroyed the first piston ring also destroyed the piston and the cylinder and replacing the ring will not fix the problem.. Give the trimmer a big heave and get a new one.
Every one always wants the cheapest...reaserch the part based off your manual part numbers" sure you don't want to over spend on parts"...but you don't want to buy a part that could brake inside the head" and cause damage" That piston ring is the life of the 25.4cc Engine..Then the carburetor" if you don't have compression or lack there of" The until want run correctly" all because of the best known word to man ( Cheap )...Your Oil/ lubrication mix with 89% octane to produce your 50 to 1 Ratio" The screen inside the exhaust port" The gasket / Filter inside the housing for the carburetor" ..I know a few people that use the Pass/ SHC 266 For the last 10/15 yrs...And that trimmer sounds like a Yamaha dirt bike...Cool! ***🏆***
I followed all the steps and it still won't start. Getting good spark, used a in line spark tester. My compression gauge is reading 30, but I don't think it is correct. I put my finger over the spark plug hole and felt like it was enough to push my finger off. I tried starter fluid also and couldn't get it to start. Could a plugged exhaust cause it not to start? I may need to take it apart and see if I assembled it wrong. I am just worried about putting to much money into it , because it will be cheaper to replace. It is an Echo SRM-210 over 10 years old. Any suggestions?
If all of your electrical components check out okay. It sounds like you may have fuel delivery problems. This would mean that you would either have to rebuild the carburetor, tune it up or replace it. We do have videos on these repairs on our CZcams channel. Here are the links to them:czcams.com/video/RfzzTilqwo0/video.html czcams.com/video/mnrVRaJgBbA/video.html
I have a Kawasaki brush cutter and I replaced the piston and rings and did not have to remove the clutch or the cover why was that necessary in this video
whats going on when you feel the piston hitting the spark plug . Remove the spark plug and it then it pull smooth this happen after cleaning the carb after it would only run in full choke??
Rebuilding the carburetor shouldn't have caused any of your problem. I've seen this happen when the repair person replaced the plug and the new plug has a longer electrode or if the needle valve is stuck open and fills the cylinder with gas.
Fix.com I know this is old but I have a trimmer that did what you said. Filled with gas and locked up. Right after I put a cheap replacement carb on. Is it better to rebuild the carbs? Can’t remember but believe I robbed a different carb off another one I had lying around afterwards and it runs fine. Would replacing piston ring get some power back possibly?
need help got a Titan-TTL530GBC it as a spark compression is good and replaced the carb fuel lines but it will not fire up only thing i can see if when you look through exhaust side piston as scratch's on it please help thanks
hola soy omar de argentina kisiera q me ayuden a ajustar la cadena d la motocierra por q lo ajusto qeda vien ajustada y loego lo pogo a travajar se desajusta toda o se ajusta demaciado q me kita potencia ala makina prove d todas manera y n me da resultado si se puede m esplica en español gracias amigo
Excellent video, j have that exact trimmer, lol. Not a repair for the faint of heart though. Just curious, what type of screwdrivers did you use. I know the screws are not normal Philips. Thanks!
@Joe Brone I got a T-27 bit and it won't even go into the T screw head. If your T-27 is worn, it may go into the T-25 screwhead. It may also bind up as the worn angle meets up with the splines in the T-25 screwhead. That may be why your T-27 fits a bit better.
Hi Lee, the technician did not replace the flywheel. He did however reset the gap between the ignition module and the flywheel magnets. This should be done when you remove the flywheel.
It was a cut taken from an actual flywheel replacement video. When he got to the part of installing the flywheel, they used a cut from a video of him actually replacing the flywheel. Go to 5:45 of this video and you'll see it is the exact same clip m.czcams.com/video/2XxOJbh8XRQ/video.html
How the fuck can you put the cylinder back with so ease and I'm fucking struggling here about to throw the whole damn thing to the floor because the damn cylinder doesn't want to go in
Hi Reid, if you need to know what the torque specs are on the machine you are working on, I would suggest to go online and search for the manual for that specific model. Most of the time they will have the specs in them.
Hi Zeke, thanks for your question. The size of Torx screw may differ on individual leaf blowers. If you send us your model number, I may be able to help you find the right size!
@Joe Brone I got a T-27 bit and it won't even go into the T screw head. If your T-27 is worn, it may go into the T-25 screwhead. It may also bind up as the worn angle meets up with the splines in the T-25 screwhead. That may be why your T-27 fits a bit better.
Can someone please give some advice. I replaced the piston but when I put the screws back in to the case the piston doesn't move anymore. It only happens once I tighten one of the screws. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it
I'm guessing the screws your talking about are the ones that that hold the Head onto the crankcase. Right? If so, does the piston seem bound up or like it's hitting the top of the Head. if it is bound up does tightening both screws equally help the issue?
Fix.com Fix.com I already thought about trying that but no combination seems to help. I can screw one really tight and no problem but the other makes the piston not move once it is barely tight. If I keep both screws loose the piston makes a knocking sound on every 2nd stroke and that only happens when the spark plug is fully screwed in. If the spark plug is unscrewed it doesn't knock. The gasket is in good shape so I don't know what can fix it.
If the piston and rod are the same lengths as the old one I wouldn't think that to be the problem. There's certainly and issue with the head room for the piston whether it's the rod and piston length or the length of the spark plug. You say once the plug is removed the knocking noise stops. Does the motor turn freely with the plug removed? If so I wonder if the length of the plug is to long causing it to hit the piston. Did the plug get replaced recently?
I found the problem. When i full secured the piston case the magneto would get pressed against the plastic spinning part causing it not to turn. Once I adjusted the magneto hiegth the noise stopped and it works now. The only problem is when I give it throttle its almost like its flooding itself and gas is getting ejected from the exhaust. I think somehow too much gas is getting into the space where combustion happens. It also shakes excessively.
Why is it always so easy for someone on CZcams to do things? But when I go to try to do it exactly the way you show it in the video it ain't happening dog
It's actually not that difficult to replace. The ring can't be more than $10 and a new trimmer cost $200. With enough time and patience it is a doable repair. Of course you need to have the right tools to do this job.
Yeah, ummmm...I dunno about using a razor blade to scrape _ANY_ gasket sealing surface. Being too aggressive or having a slip-up could easily scratch the soft aluminum and pretty much render the entire repair effort pointless. Bad crankcase seals on a two-stroke are a _bitch_ to diagnose. Better to use a plastic scraper...
You always make these repairs so easy to understand. You make me look like a small engine expert to my family. Thank you.
I really like how detailed your video was. But in my opinion, if you’re only aiming for the piston ring, just take off spark plug wire, the top cover, the intake (leave intake off to the side with wires and hoses still connected) and you should be able to pull the head right off with the coil and exhaust still on. Switch out the ring, lube, and reverse. No need to separate the engine from the assembly. But that’s just how I do it.
Also how I do it.
How do you compress rings to get them in?
@@glennfarrar3107 I used a piece of plastic from a bleach container. Cut a strip, wrapped it around the ring, pulled tight by tabs I made. Just bending the ends of the plastic at approximately 90 degrees. Then you can keep pressure on it so it slides in. Oil it up real good. I like assembly lube.
@@mikeclement5383 thanks, my piston ring clamp is to big so this idea will help, also just been told about "pegs in ring grooves".
Once again thanks
Which side does the arrow on top of piston face?
Thank you so much for such a detailed explanation. I followed your steps nd was able to repair my brush cutter by muself...luckily, parts were available at my local store. God bless you guys 😊
While a well made and thorough video. Aside from draining all the fuel for safety and less mess, I found you only need to remove the plastic shield, unscrew the carb and leave it hanging. Pop off the spark plug wire, then the 2 screws to remove the cylinder to have access to the piston. I don't even remove the muffler or spark plug.
Confirm your finding! I have to admit Echo is very well design and simple for maintenance. No wonder they sell millions of these trimmer around the world!
I didn't even remove the carb. Carb and exhaust still attached. The plug I pulled just so that I can test for resistance in the rotating assembly, make sure the bearings are good and I lubed it sufficiently.
Good tip!
That lil piston is so cute man 🥺
Replacing a piston ring on an Echo weedeater involves several steps. Keep in mind that it's a detailed process, and if you're not comfortable with small engine repair, it's advisable to seek professional help. Here's a general guide:
Safety first: Ensure the weedeater is turned off, and disconnect the spark plug to prevent accidental starts.
Disassembly: Remove the engine cover, spark plug, and muffler. This will give you access to the cylinder.
Remove the cylinder: Loosen and remove the bolts securing the cylinder to the engine. Gently lift the cylinder away, exposing the piston.
Remove the old piston ring: Carefully take out the old piston ring. You may need to use a small pick or screwdriver to help lift it out.
Clean the piston and cylinder: Wipe the piston and cylinder clean from any debris or carbon buildup. Make sure both surfaces are smooth.
Install the new piston ring: Carefully slide the new piston ring onto the piston. Pay attention to the orientation specified by the manufacturer.
Check and lubricate: Ensure all parts are securely fastened. Add a small amount of 2-stroke engine oil to the cylinder and piston to lubricate them.
Reassemble: Put the cylinder back in place and secure it with the bolts. Reattach the engine cover, spark plug, and muffler.
Test: Reconnect the spark plug, start the weedeater, and check for proper operation. Listen for any unusual sounds or vibrations.
If you're unsure or uncomfortable with any step, it's recommended to consult the user manual for your specific model or seek assistance from a professional technician.
What a great video. Clear and professional. Step by step. Thanks!
7:41 it’s like a baby piston got born when it slid out lol
So much easier than the Troy bilt I worked on. Had to pretty much disassemble the entire thing to fix the pull rope. I just use it for the pole saw and have an echo trimmer. I’ll be buying another echo when the time comes. Or going electric.
You forget to clean the piston.. I'm always clean the piston head and groove.. Next time use a piston groove cleaner... And clean the cylinder as well.. Good job 👍
Thanks. Excellent and clear instruction video. There is no need to torque the cylinder screws down? Subscribed.
Thank you so so much I've been trying to take the clutch off for too long now
Nicely done, sir. (I just wish that you'd started the engine at the end of the video.)
I am restoring a old weedeater right now and the engine is actually in really good shape, i thought about putting a new set of rings, when i went to price them they wanted 35 dollars for them,lol, not gonna happen, they should be 15 dollars for the pair if that, im trying to find alternative or maybe a different brand, no rush at all on it,just a little fun project.
Why the hell would you remove the flywheel and starter pawl to change a piston ring? On that note, if you're not changing the cylinder, you don't even need to take anything off. Just undo the two head bolts and remove everything at once.
Also you didn't torque the head bolts upon reassembly nor mention that this needs to be done. Seems like a vital piece of information that was missed. For anyone who wants to know, Echo's spec for these bolts are 60-85in/lb.
Thankyou for the torque specs!😃
what is the ohm spec tolerance of the coil? What is the piston ring tolerance up to the point where crank pulse is too weak to push and pull fuel from the carb? And, will not replacing the head gasket , if it has visible wear just at the bolt holes, after pulling the head lower the crank pressure such that hard starting or no starting occurs?
Well done and not a waste of time
Thank You’ll
Thank so much for your nice details video
At first I ws scared to open the piston section of the engine ... as i needed to change the seal, replace gaskets, clean the pistonhead and engine head where spark plug sits... my brush cutter lost its compression and switched off itself. But now its running like new 😊😊
*let's get started*
I have problem with my srm 210 a lot of smoke comes out changing the ring will solve the problem thanks for. the video
Where can I get a gasket for 125l husqvarna weedeater not carb gasket
It must be nice to be able to remain so called during this process. I'd be throwing wrenches and sockets at walls probably
Along with saying every curse word known to man.
This isn’t bad at all. It’s a better design than most!
@@seabass22 Not really sure what they meant by those comments,there is nothing to taking this thing apart and putting it back together,guess they have never taken a Auto trans apart,lol
dntlss I haven’t taken an auto trans apart either lol.
@@seabass22 Check this out,this is a older one, the new ones have twice as many parts, ha ha ha ha www.scribd.com/doc/73686489/AOD-Transmission-Schematic
Is it a workable solution to just do the ring without changing the piston head? Struggling to find our Kawasaki piston…
Very clear and helpful. Thanks
installed new ring and cylinder gasket and still only pulls 45psi for pas 225. the ring takes a bit of effort to seat, about like whats in the video... but maybe the upper portion of head is egged?
Either I missed it or , you didn't clean the piston gap where the new ring goes ? Was it already clean ? No carbon fouling ? Why take it all apart if your not going to replace the crankcase seals ? You can gap the magneto with the crankcase still bolted to the clutch cover and you didn't check yhe exhaust screen for carbon fouling ? Not being a smart butt or anything just curious ? Also why remove the carburetor at all ?
You don't have to detach the engine from the frame only for a piston ring replacement. With the plier that's how you break a clutch and a recoil paul ratchet. There's pistons stops and and tools to do that without risk. This is a job that takes just 15 min.
Great video !!!! Thank you 😎
Need help with an issue inhave with my husqvarna trimmer 128ld. I changed the cylinder and piston, i also calibrate the magnets in the flywheel, I have a conpression of 100psi, new spark plug(sparks good), new carb, new fuel lines. It wont start. Any ideas?
Thanks! I wonder one thing about the piston-ring. Does it have to be loosen 100% or 80% to work properly? Is it also a scratch-mark where on the piston where the ring can not move pass left or right of the scratch-mark with the opening of the piston ring, does it stop circulate at the piston at the scratch-mark? How can you see if the piston-ring is bad or wornout?
Nice work m8
Can you please give me the number off the piston ring so I can get one and thanks 👍 for your help
You did show how to remove the broken part of the shaft.
Thank You.
Thanks for sharing. Look easy take all apart. I won’t be able to put everything back. I leave it to the professional OR buy a new one cheaper than get it repair. Lol.
You don't have to take everything apart to do the job.
that is true did it myself took about 20 mins
Good presentation 😊👍
Replacing the piston ring makes a great video but my experience is that the trimmer still will not run. Whatever destroyed the first piston ring also destroyed the piston and the cylinder and replacing the ring will not fix the problem.. Give the trimmer a big heave and get a new one.
Can u tell me what piston rings I need for a srm-210 echo.
Or the cheapest replacement for the machine
Every one always wants the cheapest...reaserch the part based off your manual part numbers" sure you don't want to over spend on parts"...but you don't want to buy a part that could brake inside the head" and cause damage" That piston ring is the life of the 25.4cc Engine..Then the carburetor" if you don't have compression or lack there of" The until want run correctly" all because of the best known word to man ( Cheap )...Your Oil/ lubrication mix with 89% octane to produce your 50 to 1 Ratio" The screen inside the exhaust port" The gasket / Filter inside the housing for the carburetor" ..I know a few people that use the Pass/ SHC 266 For the last 10/15 yrs...And that trimmer sounds like a Yamaha dirt bike...Cool! ***🏆***
Good video!
What size ur piston and piston ring
I think it we're supposed to go straight to the cylinder
Will an srm 225 piston fit in an srm 210?
I don't think so
I have one I want to fix it
I followed all the steps and it still won't start. Getting good spark, used a in line spark tester. My compression gauge is reading 30, but I don't think it is correct. I put my finger over the spark plug hole and felt like it was enough to push my finger off. I tried starter fluid also and couldn't get it to start. Could a plugged exhaust cause it not to start? I may need to take it apart and see if I assembled it wrong. I am just worried about putting to much money into it , because it will be cheaper to replace. It is an Echo SRM-210 over 10 years old. Any suggestions?
If all of your electrical components check out okay. It sounds like you may have fuel delivery problems. This would mean that you would either have to rebuild the carburetor, tune it up or replace it. We do have videos on these repairs on our CZcams channel. Here are the links to them:czcams.com/video/RfzzTilqwo0/video.html czcams.com/video/mnrVRaJgBbA/video.html
Does anyone know how much will it cost to put a new cylinder and piston kit on my echo 225 weed eater...parts n labor .. thank you .. Ezequiel
possible update trimmer echo 16 cc cilinder to 22 cc or 30 cc ??
I have a Kawasaki brush cutter and I replaced the piston and rings and did not have to remove the clutch or the cover why was that necessary in this video
whats going on when you feel the piston hitting the spark plug . Remove the spark plug and it then it pull smooth this happen after cleaning the carb after it would only run in full choke??
Rebuilding the carburetor shouldn't have caused any of your problem. I've seen this happen when the repair person replaced the plug and the new plug has a longer electrode or if the needle valve is stuck open and fills the cylinder with gas.
Fix.com I know this is old but I have a trimmer that did what you said. Filled with gas and locked up. Right after I put a cheap replacement carb on. Is it better to rebuild the carbs? Can’t remember but believe I robbed a different carb off another one I had lying around afterwards and it runs fine. Would replacing piston ring get some power back possibly?
sowhat happens when the piston will notline upand go backin chamber correctly without forcing it. Im upthe creek
Good morning good morning sir help how to fix corporate
Good vid, keep it up
need help got a Titan-TTL530GBC it as a spark compression is good and replaced the carb fuel lines but it will not fire up only thing i can see if when you look through exhaust side piston as scratch's on it please help thanks
Great video, very detailed. Thanks!
Damn I might as well buy a new edger my goodness
hola soy omar de argentina kisiera q me ayuden a ajustar la cadena d la motocierra por q lo ajusto qeda vien ajustada y loego lo pogo a travajar se desajusta toda o se ajusta demaciado q me kita potencia ala makina prove d todas manera y n me da resultado si se puede m esplica en español gracias amigo
Excellent video, j have that exact trimmer, lol. Not a repair for the faint of heart though. Just curious, what type of screwdrivers did you use. I know the screws are not normal Philips. Thanks!
These screw are called Torx Screws. I believe this size for these bolts was a "T25". These Torx Drivers come in a variety of sizes.
@Joe Brone I got a T-27 bit and it won't even go into the T screw head. If your T-27 is worn, it may go into the T-25 screwhead. It may also bind up as the worn angle meets up with the splines in the T-25 screwhead. That may be why your T-27 fits a bit better.
Is the carb isolator there to prevent the carburetor from getting too hot?
The isolator is there to help keep the carb and fuel cool.
My flywheel doesn’t pop off like that
Why did you put a new flywheel on it?
Hi Lee, the technician did not replace the flywheel. He did however reset the gap between the ignition module and the flywheel magnets. This should be done when you remove the flywheel.
It was a cut taken from an actual flywheel replacement video. When he got to the part of installing the flywheel, they used a cut from a video of him actually replacing the flywheel. Go to 5:45 of this video and you'll see it is the exact same clip m.czcams.com/video/2XxOJbh8XRQ/video.html
How the fuck can you put the cylinder back with so ease and I'm fucking struggling here about to throw the whole damn thing to the floor because the damn cylinder doesn't want to go in
How much does torque spec matter with these small engines?
Hi Reid, if you need to know what the torque specs are on the machine you are working on, I would suggest to go online and search for the manual for that specific model. Most of the time they will have the specs in them.
Most of that is unnecessary for just pistion and head removal.
true
Awesome video! What size Torx are they?
Hi Zeke, thanks for your question. The size of Torx screw may differ on individual leaf blowers. If you send us your model number, I may be able to help you find the right size!
The 125L I have uses 25T.
You will need a 2 inch bit or a 25T screwdriver.
@Joe Brone I got a T-27 bit and it won't even go into the T screw head. If your T-27 is worn, it may go into the T-25 screwhead. It may also bind up as the worn angle meets up with the splines in the T-25 screwhead. That may be why your T-27 fits a bit better.
How do you source gaskets?
Hello Reid, if a manufacturer no longer supplies a gasket you need, most auto parts suppliers do carry different thicknesses of gasket material.
Can someone please give some advice. I replaced the piston but when I put the screws back in to the case the piston doesn't move anymore. It only happens once I tighten one of the screws. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix it
I'm guessing the screws your talking about are the ones that that hold the Head onto the crankcase. Right? If so, does the piston seem bound up or like it's hitting the top of the Head. if it is bound up does tightening both screws equally help the issue?
Fix.com Fix.com I already thought about trying that but no combination seems to help. I can screw one really tight and no problem but the other makes the piston not move once it is barely tight. If I keep both screws loose the piston makes a knocking sound on every 2nd stroke and that only happens when the spark plug is fully screwed in. If the spark plug is unscrewed it doesn't knock. The gasket is in good shape so I don't know what can fix it.
If the piston and rod are the same lengths as the old one I wouldn't think that to be the problem. There's certainly and issue with the head room for the piston whether it's the rod and piston length or the length of the spark plug. You say once the plug is removed the knocking noise stops. Does the motor turn freely with the plug removed? If so I wonder if the length of the plug is to long causing it to hit the piston. Did the plug get replaced recently?
I found the problem. When i full secured the piston case the magneto would get pressed against the plastic spinning part causing it not to turn. Once I adjusted the magneto hiegth the noise stopped and it works now. The only problem is when I give it throttle its almost like its flooding itself and gas is getting ejected from the exhaust. I think somehow too much gas is getting into the space where combustion happens. It also shakes excessively.
@@jonashworth7126 You need to get the correct socket screwdriver to adjust the carb. Somehow one of the screws got moved so it is running rich.
I think I’ll just buy a new weed eater. Thanks.
Puss
Take a shot every time he says “now remove”
If you like that expression go watch someone remove a heater core in a car,you will hear "now remove" at least a couple of hundred times.
Echo best 😂
Beats steal no bs valves to adjust and there lighter
The WWS special
Why is it always so easy for someone on CZcams to do things? But when I go to try to do it exactly the way you show it in the video it ain't happening dog
You forget to add some oil in the crankshaft chamber 😏
Not needed it'll get oil from the gas/oil mix
I too like to use assembly lube. Even in a 2 stroke. Not a lot, just a thin coat.
roshan
At this point just buy a new trimmer 😂
😂
It's actually not that difficult to replace. The ring can't be more than $10 and a new trimmer cost $200. With enough time and patience it is a doable repair. Of course you need to have the right tools to do this job.
15:32 Deez nuts
simple no way....I would not try doing this...I'd rather buy a new one lol
Yeah, ummmm...I dunno about using a razor blade to scrape _ANY_ gasket sealing surface. Being too aggressive or having a slip-up could easily scratch the soft aluminum and pretty much render the entire repair effort pointless. Bad crankcase seals on a two-stroke are a _bitch_ to diagnose. Better to use a plastic scraper...
Deez nutz 😂
My shindaiwa t242 weed whip has 2 piston rings one right under the other separated by an 1/8"gap