PETG to ABS Fusion+ Prusa MK4 Rebuild, frame bolt replacement and plated copper heater block...
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2024
- In this video I will be replacing original PRUSA MK4 PETG parts with ABS Fusion+ from BASF. l will share my experience during this process and print settings that I used.
Printables:
www.printables.com/@SSD_16371...
Instagram:
@StudioSpaceDust
#Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters - Jak na to + styl
That off-white with black looks so good! Gonna make my next printer in that colours!
noctua fan would look awesome in this setup, love it!
Good point, thank you :)
Hello...the reverberation noise is coming from a combination of the servo motor and the metal sheet on the bottom of the printer. Its acting like a speaker of sorts. Use automotive sound deadener on any sheet metal or sheet plastic parts. Don't need much, even strips will work in the corners. Get the self adhesive kind.
Thank you for your advice 🙏
Looks sick in white
Hi, received my MK4 2 days ago. Also had the MK2/2.5S for 8 years (and I got my first printer in 2010). Same noise in both my Prusas. Releasing the tension in the belts helps with mine. I run my belts looser than recommended and have never had an issue. Also have two CNC routers (Shapeoko 4 XL and Shapeoko 3) and run belts looser than recommended for same reason. Loosing always seems to take out some of that resonance noise. If ever too loose just add a bit more tension (they loosen over time anyway).
Hi Paul, thanks for the tip, ppreciate your comment, will definitely give it a try! I think loosening belt tension to “min” setting on a belt tensioning tool will help. I also noticed it makes massive difference releasing bearing tensioning fixtures too.
3:18 letter F on prusa parts is for the ones printed by Prusa in their 3d Farm, R are the ones that are posted on printables/github to be printed by regular users.
Thank you! I also found some parts with letter “E”, those probably are internal iterations too.
I have the same bearings issue on my MK4, its currently unassembled on my workbench awaiting replacement parts. Prusa support seems to be very familiar with this issue.
Did they offer any solution? I noticed that the way this printer is designed, its very sensitive to tigtening tension. When I think I didnt apply much force at all it is actually ~2x too much. You can feel how much resistance decreases when moving plate for Y axis once pressure on bearing tigtenings is reduced inder the heating plate. And in return it then operates more quiet. This printer is good for slow-medium speed printing, this is what its design is telling me (just my opinion).
It seems like a drive related issue. I would remove the belt so the stepper has no load and then operate the stepper. If the noise persists, the problem can only be with the drive (or I guess possibly the stepper itself).
Thanks Nick!
Regarding the hotend (copper block) you should try to run PID tuning - read on the website of one supplier for this blocks that this is recommended
Hey, thanks for the tip. As far as I’m aware there sadly is no PID calibration for MK4 :(
@@StudioSpaceDustform the Prusa knowledge Base
This is a list of currently implemented G-Codes in Prusa Buddy firmware for MINI/MINI+/XL/MK4/MK3.5 printers
M303 - M303: Run PID tuning
PID relay autotune
Parameters:
S: sets the target temperature. (default 150C / 70C)
E: (-1 for the bed) (default 0)
C: Minimum 3. Default 5.
U: with a non-zero value will apply the result to current settings.
@@berlinberlin4246 thank you for the shout! Do you know a way how pass the heater test though? Because printing wise it prints without any issue even when the test fails. But because test is not completed (failed) before every print printer notifies that fact and you need to click "continue".. But to be honest I have same issue printing with NGEN or FLEX, I just cant find a way how to set Prusa filament to be NGEN, FLEX, it prints both of them, just have to click that I'm ok that filament that is loaded is not the same what the slicer file is.
i just build my prusa mk4 today
and my y-motor have the same noise
but its not that loud
maybe yours is inside the enclosure and the noise is amplified
Hey, thanks for your comment. I have pretty much resolved this grinding noise by: reducing belt tension, adjusting pulley position, installing 6x squash ball feet. The noise in the video has been reduced by 80-90% I would say (credit mainly to squash ball feet upgrade). I have also reduced tension on some of the bolts (around Y rod bearings).
the sound from the Y-axis creates a motor, it transmits vibrations to the entire structure. I changed the X axis and Y axis motors on the MK3.9, they made very similar noises, especially the Y axis, it depends a lot on what motor you get from prusa, I also have a mk4.0 and it is completely silent
i used these engines
LDO-42STH40-1684MAC printer mk3,9 now identifies as mk4
Thank you very much, this is great shout! I actually contacted prusa support for advice and they said pulley position in video is too close to motor - they were right, it has to be realligned with pulley holder frame edge (as it says in their manual) and then another thing they said, which sounded a bit counter intuitive for me was to release bolts for front and back plates, which I dont think I even want to try. The other user gave good tip to release belt tension for Y which I always had on mid-high, now reduced to just at lowest mark within allowed zone on their tool and this helped further reduce noise. So, your tip about motor could be the case closer :) any advice where you got them from? But overall this printer seems to be very sensitive to bolt/belt tensions, this is very delicate and gentle, while I always like to run it tight!
@@StudioSpaceDust I don't know why, but CZcams annoys me, delete my comment where I try to give you tips to reduce the resonance to a minimum, so I'll try with only one type :) try the sqash ball mod or at least the anti-vibration pad, I use both, it works on furniture anti-vibration mat, there is a 40x40 paving cube on the mat and also a printer with aqash balls, now the loudest motors are on the printer
@@StudioSpaceDust the second tip is to properly lubricate the bearings, you'd be surprised how many people do it wrong and I don't recommend using the enclosed grease from Prusa, super lube is a good choice, here is a very good guide on how to lubricate the bearings, start from the time from 04:33
I won't give you the link because CZcams always deletes the comment, I don't understand why, so I'll give you the title of the CZcams video:
Lubrication Basics - Keep your 3D printer running smooth and quiet
@@davidzapletal9063 Thank you, incredible tips, I'm going to try to pick some anti vibration pad from amazon and check that feet mod. I already use Super Lube but again, thanks for the link, I'm sure I didn't lubricate it the right way - so always up for learning new tricks. This, together with reduced belt tension, and right pulley position will be the end of this grinding. :D Love it, so many people gave so many good tips!
I changed motor, changed bearings, try to Loose and tight everything but still Getting grinding noise. Any ideas? Maybe shifting pulley to the side or making y axis overhaul from printables ?
do you have the heating block from aliexpress?
Got it from levendigs.com/
Motor current is too high
Does the stepper get hot when it's at idle?
Buy 1200 eurodollar printer
upgrade with shit
thanks Prusa