How to Make a Hand Plane Thicknessing Jig for Planning Small Stock | Woodworking How To
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
- Ever need to plane very thin stock, but it's too thin for a planer? Then watch this video to learn how to make a thicknessing jig that uses a hand plane to plane thin pieces of wood!
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----------- Tools I use -----------
Japanese Saws:
- SUIZAN 9.5 Inch Ryoba Pull Saw: amzn.to/38FVxf4 (Amazon)
- SUIZAN 9.5 Inch Dozuki Dovetail Pull Saw: amzn.to/3mZfrHr (Amazon)
Chisels:
- Narex Richter Bevel Edge Chisel (1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and 1): amzn.to/2WNUEMc (Amazon)
Mallet/Hammer:
- Thor Soft and Hard Face Hammer: amzn.to/37SvItn (Amazon)
Clamps:
- IRWIN QUICK-GRIP Clamps Set, 8-Piece: amzn.to/3aIhBIT (Amazon)
Sharpening:
- Ultra Sharp Diamond Sharpening Stones: amzn.to/38RARBh (Amazon)
Drill Press:
- Wen 4208 8", 5-Speed Drill Press: amzn.to/3pryuMi (Amazon)
The above are tools I use for just about every project in the workshop and come highly recommended! They are all affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. I may earn commission through purchases made through the links above.
Thanks for watching! As always, I'd love to hear what you think or if you have any suggestions. I really do enjoy reading any suggestions as I won't learn unless someone points something out!
Congrats, your video is the way a video on this subject should be. The drawings and explanation before marking and cutting are essential for clarity. Thanks!
So good to see a solution to a task that doesn't have a noisy motor to achieve it,and doesn't create the need to wear a respirator.Woodwork at it's best,a well set up sharpened plane,and the satisfying sound of a single continuous shaving. It's a pleasure to see and hear somebody still working with hand tools.
Thanks! There is something satisfying about a quiet shop and the sounds off a hand plane.
Another way to keep your side pieces parallel while adjusting the height is to make the screw channels run 45° diagonally instead of straight up and down.
This is the best and simplest version of this type of jig I've seen--well done. I'm going to go with yours.
Wow, thanks! Hope it goes well for you! If you have some hardwood, I'd recommend making the front stop piece out of some. The pine one I made in this video has since snapped. Maybe you were planning that already, but wanted to mention it nonetheless!
@@DaughtersWoodCo I plan to use some extra oak. Great suggestion. Thanks!
Pan head screws won't cause a divot and make a 3/16 thick setting hard to set. The bugle head will want to fall in the 1/8" dent. Also, take shaving from both sides for that extra smooth feeling. Very nice.
Brilliant. Never seen a jig like this one.
Thanks!
I know I'm late to commenting.... But, I just finished building one today. It would have been done yesterday except for the 3 plane stops that broke during initial use or during build. The mortise in line with the grain and possibly my techique were the problem where the wood kept splitting. A piece of hard maple seems to be working for now. Thanks for the video. You did a nice job explaining the process and it was helpful. Keep up the good work.
I had trouble with the plane stop splitting too! I think using a thicker piece of maple like you did would prevent splitting!
This is exactly what I was attempting to build AND THEN I ran across your "Hand Plane Thicknessing Jig" plan. Yes, I'm going downstairs to start and let you in on my finished jig. PS this is for thin trim strips on a military flag display case for my wife's uncle's ARMY burial flag. And thank you so very much for sharing your talent and craftsmanship.
Looks like CZcams knew exactly what you needed! I'm glad it was helpful and for such an important project! I hope it came out great!
Very helpful. Thanks
Great job - again!
Thank you!
Thanks for the very informative video. You did a beautiful job on this. I'm going to make one for myself.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful and I hope yours turns out great!
Great idea! Well done!
Thank you!
great, just what I needed.
Glad it is helpful!
Nice job, man.
Regards from Rio.
Thanks Reberto!
Cool project. I wonder if you can use it in a linear rail (insted of a power router) system to actually plane perfectly flat thick, long and wide pieces?
Nice build.
Looks like you added depth adjustment to your router plane, too.
Yup! It's a convenient addition to have.
Great job!!
Thank you!
Thank you so much
You're welcome!
Thanks!
Thanks so much Sean!
Hi. Great tutorial. Could you use an electric planer on the jig?
I've been thinking about making one of these for a while, but this is the first how-to video I've come across-and it's very good! So thank you.
I might drill all the way through and use through going bolts or machine screws to fasten both sides at once instead of screws. I worry that the screws will become loose over time?
Thank you Thomas! Glad it was helpful!
And yes, I would screw all the way through and do as you were thinking. I can tell you after using it now for awhile that they have come loose. I end up clamping the whole thing in my vise so it hasn't been a big deal but I would still suggest something other then simply screwing into the wood. Maybe do some threaded inserts if you want to get really fancy?
@@DaughtersWoodCo Thanks for the reply! I just got an assortment of threaded inserts, so I might do that! Great idea.
i dont liek how flexy your vice is, dosnt look very well secured??
I wonder if you could set up the jig to plane a taper (like a shim). Cool jig.
I believe you could if you just set one end high then the other.
muito fixe
Thank you!
Why would there be a skew? Does the clamping in the vise play a role?
I'm not sure exactly. There could be a variety of reasons. The plane iron itself could have been skewed and I just didn't have it setup properly, or I could have set the jig so that one side was a little higher then the other, or since I'm referencing off the base piece and if the two sides of the base piece aren't the same size then that could maybe throw it off. Or like you said, maybe the clamping in the vise is forcing it so one side gets slightly higher or lower then the other? Basically, I'm not sure and think I need to look into it more!
I was building one lol, having problems braking the adjustable fence
Sounds like you're really pushing down on the plane! haha I've been worried about that happening on mine too though. Time will tell how it holds up!
@@DaughtersWoodCo yes sir , its a taytools #5 and im not super good at sharpening it yet , and due to covid im out of hard wood
@@anthonyattaway3437 That would do it. I feel like I'm still trying to learn how to best sharpen too.
@@DaughtersWoodCo yes sir! It is a process! I make stuff out of leather and i found that sometimes you can get away and or perfect a edge by stroping on a pice of leathet
Have you found that the adjustable sides slip downward at all after you made a few passes with a plane? What number plane do you use most for this purpose
Yes, I have noticed the sides slipping. Something I do to ensure they stay put is that I place the whole thing into my bench vise to that the jaws of the vise are pressing against the sides and forcing everything in place if that makes sense. This has helped me prevent the sides from slipping. If you don't have a vise big enough to fit the whole jig in something that might help is to use washers so that there is more force being distributed against the sides instead of just the force of the screw heads. I haven't tried that so I'm not sure how much more it would help.
I use my number 5 while using the jig but Im sure a number 4 would work just as well.
Hope that all helps!
@@DaughtersWoodCo Thank you for your reply. Currently I am making a Plane Skid which gets around the slippage issue by shimming small parts underneath. I do plan to make one like yours to try out and compare the two.
@@azor294 Yep, that’s the way to go. Build a box with fixed rails and bring the workpiece up from below using shims - you can use sheets of paper for fine adjustments. Only the stop at the front needs to be adjustable. Saw this in one of Adrian Preda’s videos.
@@azor294 I made one like you describe some years ago. On mine the side runners are fixed to the base, as is the end stop. I have three 1/4" and one 1/8" hardboard strips that fit between the side runners to elevate the work allowing me to make pieces at thickness at 1/8" intervals. Works flawlessly!
I may have missed this or if I didn't and the information wasn't in the video, can you tell me how you came to decide which thicknesses you would use for the 3 pieces of wood that make up the jig? It seems like you're using 3/4" for the walls and and 2x2 for the base. Thanks!
So I don't have the exact measurements off the top of my head, but thickness of each of the pieces is somewhat flexible. I would agree with your guess that the center is about 2 inches. I think I remember it being a little thinner then 2 inches, maybe more like a 1 3/4". And I would agree the sides were about 3/4" inch. I think the important thing to consider when choosing a thickness for the base is one, you want it to be sturdy so I wouldn't go anything less then an 1 1/2", and second that you wouldn't want it to bulky either. Basically, I wouldn't worry too much about the thickness of the center piece and think 2 inches would be perfect. The thickness of the sides is also somewhat flexible. The important thing with the sides is that you want the thin part that makes up the "walls" to be thick enough to take some force while planning and not be so thin that they snap. The thin parts of mine are around a 1/4" maybe 3/16. The other piece that will determine the thickness of the sides is the distance between the edge of the plane and the edge of the throat of the plane. So to find the thickness of the side pieces I would measure the distance between the throat and the edge of the plane and then add to that how thick you want the thin "wall" to be and then add about a 1/16" so the plane isn't so tight in between the "walls". Hopefully that all makes sense! I can get you the exact measurements if you want, but again the thickness of the side pieces does depend on the plane you are using so I'm not sure how helpful it'll be. Please let me know if you still have questions!
@@DaughtersWoodCo I appreciate your reply! It's starting to make more sense to me now. The biggest issue I'd say I had was determining the measurements for the side walls. I will be using a low angle block plane so I found that the sole is 2" wide, the plane iron is 1 5/8" wide, and I just measured the distance between the throat and the edge of the plane which came out to be 3/16". So from here if you have any suggestions on the width of the base piece and the rabbets that will make up the side walls, that would be great! I think 1/4" thickness for the walls will be best for durability without getting too bulky or thin
@@91wheelz My pleasure! Based off your measurements I would make the base piece 1 5/8" wide and each side wall 1/2" inch wide/thick. For the rabbets I would then cut them 1/4" deep by 3/8 inch tall. With these measurements when you bring the three pieces together it should leave a "through" 2 1/8" wide (1/4 rabbet + 1/4 rabbet + 1 5/8 base = 2 1/8"). This'll leave 1/16" on either side of your 2" wide plane that'll give space for the plane to move easily between the two side walls. Do those measurements make sense? Please let me know if you still have questions and I'll try to help as best I can!
@@DaughtersWoodCo I really do appreciate the help you've given me. This makes a lot more sense now that you were able to guide me through measurements. I can't wait to get the jig built! Oh and one last question, I noticed that your side walls are taller than your center piece (I'm guessing by 1/2"), is that necessary to have them be taller?
@@91wheelz Glad I could help! Yes the side walls are taller and that is so that when you cut the rabbets there remains a part that still sticks up above that'll act as walls to keep the plane in the center.
Why no one sell those!
Only i used ikea hard ware and threaded inserts to make this last longer
I kept thinking about this! I think I might add them to make it last longer like you said.
@@DaughtersWoodCo i drilled and mortised out the center “block” to slide them up and down in, i used three total and they go all the way through
you really need a proper mic man
Yeah, it's on the list of things to buy.
Great video thank you