I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough. On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
Very nice and thorough video of how to clean a de filter. My only negative comment is I wouldn't use the new (looking) heater cabinet to drop my tools on. When the powdercoated cabinet gets scratched it's not long until the heaters housing starts to rust at the scratch. My biggest pet peeve with pool techs is the lack of appreciation of how much these things cost and there's no need for that. You wouldn't drop tools on the fender of your car (most mechanics will place a matt over the fender to prevent their tools or zippers, e.t.c, from accidentally scratching the car) and a nice new $3500+ heater deserves the same care and consideration. That said, I'm a fan of your tutorials and enjoy watching and learning from them! Keep up the good work. Thanks, Firemanmike
Even if only 90% cleanliness is achieved by this method, it still makes a lot of sense because less time and work will encourage one to do it more often.
You can get it cleaned out better if you remove the grids. It’s super easy to put back together. Plus, pulling the whole thing out can be a back breaker.
That's a lot of work to go through only to skip pulling the paddles out. You simply can not get them completely clean nor can you inspect them for damage without separating them. You're right about one thing, over tightening the nuts (or nut) is what causes damage to the manifold. It isn't going anywhere so no need to overtighten at all. Kind of a moot point since you didn't take it apart.
@@jamessepulveda5202 thanks, yes that's what thos channel is all about. DIY. Hoping to help the homeowner who can't afford a proper tech to at least understand where they can and can't take shortcuts.
this is how bad techs clean filters. it doesn't take very much time to learn how to put a grid assembly back together. and you put a filter back together with stress fractures on the manifold? thats retarded. what the fuckkk are you going to do when that manifold busts the same day as the customer has a pool party?
Neat trick to shrink the o-ring. Re the o-ring lube, I learned long ago to use a non-oil based lube because petroleum based lubes cause the o-ring to grow i.e. expand.
I have two long cracks on either side of the damper. Used PVC glue to bridge the gap. Did it a couple of times through the years. Eventually will have to replace it, but saves a fortune in the meantime.
New trick! Clean it up, get old glue off & rough it up a little with some sand paper. Use super glue, don't be stingy, while wet pour baking soda on it, don't be stingy. This method is SO strong they use it to repair nicks in helicopter blades. They will fill & sand, repeat. You don't have too. Give it a coat and another if you want. Blow off baking soda, add glue, soda. I repaired my manifold several years back and it is still holding up well.
@@chuckredd9131 Ha. Sounds like a winner. Only problem, when it comes time to add more filling I will probably have long forgotten about this procedure.
I usually open my Hayward filter and remove the grid assembly every year. By hosing from both sides, I get most of the old mud off the grids fins. In between, I just back-wash to get the pressure drop to
Yikes! So if I can’t get the lid off I can just turn on the pump, and wait for it to pop off. Is this true? I’m losing my strength and have had trouble loosening the top of the cannister. Can someone kindly elaborate.
I cleaned mine like you did, many times. One time for grins I took the gills out of the “cleaned one”. lol try that just one time. Regardless of running pressure, now I pull them apart after every second BW so the filter is actually working.
I do it half way through the season then again when i close it... it really needs it done after running for half the season...it gets nasty especially with the pollen early in the season...that's even with using a skum sock (highly recommend them) during the first few weeks after opening...
There's of good hacks here especially the one with the super glue and baking soda. I knew it was strong and I use it for many different repairs but I don't know about a helicopter blade...hmmmmm. I ALWAYS take all the grids or cartridges out and apart as it's the ONLY way to get them completely clean AND to look for old/damaged grids. My way serves the customer better and there is a potential to replace old or bad grids.
Yeah you are correct, when doing a teardown completely disassembly is best...that is our standard operating procedure as well. But you might have missed the intent of the video and who it's aimed at. Thanks for the feedback though, always appreciated.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY Ya know you're spot on! I wasn't looking at your vid from a consumer POV and if your DIY customer is gonna try it then YOUR WAY is the best...and after he puts it back together and it's worse and spitting back into the pool THEN you go back and do it OUR way. Good vid though.
First off I can't believe you got the top tank to seat as stretched as it was although I've never tried the cold water trick. I always carry extra tank o-rings on my truck anyway, i'ts easier and it's a sale.
Yes, we carry extra parts as well, but try not to cost our customers extra money if we can avoid it, its a smart business decision for us in the long run. On this channel I try to show homeowner different resources to DIY this stuff rather than showing professional practices. I hope you are able to use the cold water trick someday ;o)
I have always done this, but I do it into a plastic bin, let it settle then pour clear water back via filter. Then I pour the remainder through an old piece of cloth in the corner of garden, when dry put it in rubbish. This method only uses a fraction of the water to clean and is 10 times cleaner..
Hayward states in manual that backwashing shortens the grids lifespan when using backwashing method! What gets me is for sometime the selling of silicone lube craze for everything from o-rings & what not! But what i have noticed, seen & found on the field that silicone in hot- warm weather is effective to a point! But silicone used in cold temps is a no no, for silicone hardens when it gets cold & breaks down or apart materials such as o-ings, rubber, plastic causing problems! Ever inspect a o-ring & it feels pitted & hard like on one side?
I don't know that I would call that a "craze"...dry o-rings crack, pit, and split. If the lube is truly silicon it won't break down the o-ring as the o-ring is petrol based. A petrol-based lube will break down an o-ring however. As far as hardening...we don't ever experience that here in our area of California, that may be an issue in freezing temps, or if the O-ring hasn't been serviced for far too long. Thats been my experience, but yours may be different
Thanks for the video. You made my life so much easier lol. Those it matter which way the bracket clamp is facing? I noticed I have mine opposite from the video
I can't find any info on what to do with the dirty DE. I can't pump it out to street or sewer - there is no backwash or out to waste valve. I can only take filters out and spray them off. But it makes a mess. I did it on the lawn, which remained stained with DE for weeks. I want to do it in the garden but can't find info regarding if it hurts the garden. I know the difference between food-grade and pool-grade DE. I'm not wanting to put it in the garden to help the garden, just to get rid of the DE. But I need to know if it hurts the garden soil short or long term.
We are so tire of doing the filter cleaning 2-3 times a year. Wondered if it's worth it to replace the DE filter to a sand filter for less maintenance?
Of your gonna do it , do it right , always carry spare parts. Replace the manifold , take grids fully apart, been doing this for 23 years and that my friend is the lazy way.
Thanks brother. If you rewatch the video and others you'll note this channel isn't directed at pool professionals, it's for diy homeowners. Most homeowners don't carry spare parts and often need to get a job done in a pinch. I've been at this for 15+ years with multiple trucks and continue to run a successful business. I can assure you there's a job taking place off camera that you don't see, but thanks for your input.
I do this to my 48sq ft D.E. filter twice a year. it is a 2 hour process each time I do it. I hate it, but it is a necessary evil. I'd rather have a colonoscopy than do this.
Yes, your "necessary evil" systematic approach is, I think, the best way. I clean a filter when the pressure rises 10 psi over the starting pressure, which will vary on each system. Pools are like kids, each one has a unique personality! Come to believe that after taking care of thousands of those "kids". I've cleaned thousands of DE filters over the years, but I charge enough to make a business out of it!
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough. On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
2 hours? Are you pulling all the grids out or doing it like in video? I do it like in video and it takes me about 30 min. I started doing this instead of backwashing because I never know how much DE comes out with each back wash and I was concerned I wasn’t adding enough back in, or that I would eventually put too much in and then have it blow back into Pool.
I have a 1 year old DE filter I cleaned it the first time and the pressure went back down to 12 which they said it should be. it rose again in a few months to 22-25. I cleaned it again and the pressure is at 18 consistent. I cannot get it back down. All baskets are clean. any recommendations. FYI some of the people on here are aholes with their comments. thank for the help
You can do an acid wash on the elements. If there is grease, or oil such as a sunscreen residue, you can use a degreaser such as tsp to degrease the elements first, then do an acid wash. A plastic garbage can filled with water half to three quarts full of water first, and then pour acid in. One pool site recommends a 20- to-. 1 water vs. acid (muriatic). Let the filter elements soak with your solution in the plastic garbage pail maybe 10-15 minutes, and then hose off again. You should see a big improvement in your filter cleaning cycle time. Very important to use soda ash to dilute the acid solution, after you are through cleaning your filter elements.
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough. On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
@@chuckredd9131 A guy I know has made these for years, he calls it a "shewanda", and they work great, as I imagine yours does, as well, extremely effective at thoroughly cleaning the elements.
I do the same thing, but the DE is still there on the bottom. I was wondering if you can backwash and then do what you did to get it cleaner? I replaced my o-rings for my backwash stem but still haven’t used it because it is so easy to just take it apart. Good video though.
Absolutely! The more old debris you can remove the better. In regular practice on the company side we backwash only most of the time and then do a complete teardown once a year where we completely disassemble the grids, manifolds, ect...tearing down the grids is the best way to ensure a complete job, but many have difficulty putting them back together. We'll post another video showing that teardown process too.
Can you do a video explaining what to check when you are getting dirt returning to your pool? Is it the manifold cracked, the o-ring on the riser tube is allowing blow by or a bad grid? When I open my DE I have a bunch of DE on top of my screen, and only part of the grids are covered with DE. Would very much appreciate your help, thanks.
I bought a Pentair DE filter and it arrived with a defective busted manifold which was only discovered hours into an expensive repair by a pool technician.
@alanthomas561, did you figure this issue out? I have a similar problem. Lots of comments about a bad push pull valve came up. Also thinking my o-ring on the manifold is flattened out. Thanks.
Don't add a full amount after backwashing; there's plenty left behind as back washing isn't the most thorough way to clean a de filter. That'd be fully disassembling the unit and hosing off the grid assembly or soaking the grid assembly in a cleaning fluid made for this purpose. I add 1 scoop or pound less then you'd add to a new filter.
I actually have a video for that....it's just not edited just yet. Measure out your DE, I usually do no more than 3 pounds at a time. Mix into a bucket of water and add the mix to the skimmer with the pump turned on.
Yes. A complete teardown that removes all of the DE will require adding 100% of the DE back. A backwash will usually require a lesser percentage to recharge it.
Why go against manufacturer's recommendations they built the product Just be thorough with your back wash sometimes repeating the process a few times until you see nothing but clear water before adding new de.
not at all. backwash valves are still the best way to clear the DE and sand filter, but occasionally a grid teardown is needed. This video was mainly to offer a quick and dirty option to a complete teardown.
Backwashing is not a complete cleaning of the filter grids. That's why when you're done and go to add new de you never add a "full charge" because plenty gets left behind when backwashing. I do one full cleaning by removing the grids at the end of our season. Here on Long Island that's about 5 months if you have a heater. Locations where you can use your pool yard round I'd probablly do a full cleaning 2 or 3 times a year. It also depends on how much use the pool gets as well.
If you're talking about the parts inside the fabric. You need to replace that entire grid. Those ribs support the fabric, which holds onto the filter media. There are no replacement parts made other than the entire grid.
One thing that can cause the cracks in that manifold is taking out all the grids at one time. It's plastic and can only withstand so much weight on those grids...
The manifolds with molded handled are actually designed to be removed all together as one unit. The cracks are generally from chemical exposure over time which causes the plastic to become brittle. This process is sped up with bad water chemistry. But you definitely don't want to be overly rough on the top or bottom manifold.
Lol...yes I am very comfortable on ledges and around pools. I'm happy to say I haven't fallen in by accident (yet). I've had a few times where I thought for sure I was going in tho 😅
Hello I'm having problems with my filter and cartridges I've taken them out rinsed them put back at least two times the vacuum would work for a hour then stop also the pressure is up to 35 I take it apart and the filters are dirty as before within a day any help or recommendations is appreciated
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough. On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
It's a Ryobi impact drill gun with a 3/8 drive socket adapter and then whatever size socket you need. I usually use deep sockets, typical sizes are either 9/16, 3/4, or 7/8" depending on the make model or year of the filter.
Have you noticed when those de cartridges get about 10 years old you have to replace because the pump won't stay full primed long even after washing them and they start to trap water. I believe that's when they need replacement or you have to do constant backwash?
10 years is a pretty good run on grids. These grids can be replaced in entirety or per piece. I usually recommend replacing per grid as needed for efficiency and cost savings.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY the grids that have trapped water inside are the ones to be replaced? I don't see any difference in any of the grids regarding damage so I assuming replace the grids with water inside?
@@kevinfahey7618 a lot of time water is trapped from doing a backwash cycle. That's not necessarily indicative of a failed grid. Look for torn fabric and cracked ribs. If the structure has failed you'll lose filtration efficiency.
Thanks for the tip. In hindsight, back washing a de filter is a very messy process, plumbing the used de and debris creates mess that needs to be swept up. I plumb it to my lawn and picking the mess up from a lawn is a bitch. Employing your method will allow me to rinse out the de and have it land on concrete which will be much easier to sweep up . Im going to try and see how it goes.. I have a question relating vacuuming. I have a purex triton smbw 2060 DE filter. It has a rotary valve with filter setting and backwash setting. Is there a way to vacuum to waste? Can i vacuum with the valve in the backwash position? Can i run if without the grids? Thx
Yes, I have done that, quite cumbersome, but it will work. That type of filter is by far the preferred filter used by pool servicemen in southern California.
@@carlc5748 so cal is where i stay at, and yes, de filters are common here in LA, they do a great job and keep water crystal clear. Backwashing and cleaning the grids are a big PIA! I fucked up by not maintaining my pool and let it go to shit, i had to clean grids and recharge DE about 10 times before getting it to clear! Lessons learned! My neighbor changed to cartridge style and he deeply regrets switching as he feels he doesn't get the clear water he use to get with DE filter!
@@dannydee9919 You got educated in pool school of hard knocks, never forget the lesson that you learned! I am a diehard DE man, because DE filtering down to 5 microns, will trump a cartridge filtering down to 15-20 microns. I use the DE substitute Aquaperl. Measure the same as DE, but weighs half as much, comes in a 12+lb bag, as opposed to a 25lb. DE bag. In cleaning out a filter, it seems to go away quicker into the ground, as well. Hasa owns the company. I have been using it in lieu of DE for more than 15 years. A lot of pool guys are not aware of this product.
Salt water pools are just chlorine pools that use salt to make the chlorine. Only true salt water pools are aquariums. But yes DE filters are approved for salt chlorine generator pools
if you have the same filter as the video it will be 7/8" like what Ed commented. The other common sizes you might encounter depending on manufacturer; 9/16", 3/4", & 13/16"
Hose off the grids once a month and replace oring once a year too. That oring wears thin fast lets de back to pool that you can't see. Pool will cloud.
@@AidanSkoyles I'm not the one recommending once a month. If your filter is properly sized and your pool properly cared for you can generally go once a quarter and be just fine
I didn't see you checking on the grids looks like the water is cloudy because the D E is going back to the pool I didn't see you fixing anything the top maniofold is broken definitely need a new one very bad job.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY if you don't check on the grid what's the point maniofold was broken nothing was fix the dust is going to keep going back to the pool . 🧐
@@israelflores1375 The grids were checked, but THAT was not the point of this video...see comment above...and the manifold was not cracked. go back and rewatch the segment you are referencing, the manifold had stress cracks in the plastic indicating that it HAS NOT yet failed, but soon would. The manifold was completely in tact and safe to reinstall. If it failed, we would see DE blowby right away. I apologize, but you seem to have missed the point of the video.
Teachers pool basics I don’t know shit about pools and I just bought a house with a pool I would like to get rid of my pool guy at some point so I can save some money
@@PoolProAnswersDIY just a few concerns about DE will it cause harm to the ocean I’m close to the beach and my pool guy dumped the backwash line into the middle of the street so it’s white powdery dust all over black pavement? I was thinking to hose it down tonight into the gutter but it’s already all the way down the blocks gutters and my neighbors are pissed I’m sure. It that crazy toxic or hazardous to the sewers. Since it runs off into the ocean I’m worried my one neighbor will report it to the city!
@@iiiheartt333 in some cities you can get a ticket for backwashing Into the street, de is just a natural media but its full of chems from your pool. If its an issue consider getting a cartridge filter.
@@iiiheartt333 @Andres Gutierrez is right, it depends on the municipality. Your pool service should know, although many times the service guys aren't always up on the regulations. You may be able to install a separation tank that holds the DE when you do a backwash. In the municipality where we work these are required for commercial pools, but are generally a good idea.
I damaged my grids the first time I sprayed them off. They are more fragile than you think, especially if they are the originals. I use a fine, wider spray without too much pressure.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY I had a DE filter. I power washed it, backwashed it, added DE, and I still could never get it to work better. The water flow through that thing was terrible.
That's an interesting comment. I'm sure if there is an older filter or one with manufacturing flaws your comment could be true. Unfortunately, it's directly opposite to the instructions found in the manufacturer's instruction manual (easily found online) and this is also common industry practice.
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough.
On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off
water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
OMG, now that’s smart tinkering!!
Very nice and thorough video of how to clean a de filter. My only negative comment is I wouldn't use the new (looking) heater cabinet to drop my tools on. When the powdercoated cabinet gets scratched it's not long until the heaters housing starts to rust at the scratch. My biggest pet peeve with pool techs is the lack of appreciation of how much these things cost and there's no need for that. You wouldn't drop tools on the fender of your car (most mechanics will place a matt over the fender to prevent their tools or zippers, e.t.c, from accidentally scratching the car) and a nice new $3500+ heater deserves the same care and consideration. That said, I'm a fan of your tutorials and enjoy watching and learning from them! Keep up the good work.
Thanks,
Firemanmike
I appreciate the viewership and the feedback.
Thanks for stopping by👌🏼
Do you polish your heater too? 😂😅😂
Even if only 90% cleanliness is achieved by this method, it still makes a lot of sense because less time and work will encourage one to do it more often.
You can get it cleaned out better if you remove the grids. It’s super easy to put back together. Plus, pulling the whole thing out can be a back breaker.
Yes that is the preferred method, but as the video indicates this is a short cut in a pinch. Thanks for viewing and for your feedback!!
That's a lot of work to go through only to skip pulling the paddles out. You simply can not get them completely clean nor can you inspect them for damage without separating them. You're right about one thing, over tightening the nuts (or nut) is what causes damage to the manifold. It isn't going anywhere so no need to overtighten at all. Kind of a moot point since you didn't take it apart.
Yeah it's not the shortcut I would do or recommend, but some folks need a proper shortcut
It's what separates good techs from bad ones. But then again. Homeowners skimp out of paying for service so they get what they deserve
Yeah I was pretty surprised he didn't take it apart all the way and wash it down. Any real pool guy knows not to skip simple steps
@@jamessepulveda5202 thanks, yes that's what thos channel is all about. DIY. Hoping to help the homeowner who can't afford a proper tech to at least understand where they can and can't take shortcuts.
this is how bad techs clean filters. it doesn't take very much time to learn how to put a grid assembly back together. and you put a filter back together with stress fractures on the manifold? thats retarded. what the fuckkk are you going to do when that manifold busts the same day as the customer has a pool party?
Neat trick to shrink the o-ring. Re the o-ring lube, I learned long ago to use a non-oil based lube because petroleum based lubes cause the o-ring to grow i.e. expand.
Yeah, NEVER use petroleum based. It will cause the rubber to fail
I have two long cracks on either side of the damper. Used PVC glue to bridge the gap. Did it a couple of times through the years. Eventually will have to replace it, but saves a fortune in the meantime.
Thats what this channel is all about DIY! Good on you!!
New trick! Clean it up, get old glue off & rough it up a little with some sand paper. Use super glue, don't be stingy, while wet pour baking soda on it, don't be stingy. This method is SO
strong they use it to repair nicks in helicopter blades. They will fill & sand, repeat. You don't have too. Give it a coat and another if you want. Blow off baking soda, add glue, soda.
I repaired my manifold several years back and it is still holding up well.
@@chuckredd9131 Ha. Sounds like a winner. Only problem, when it comes time to add more filling I will probably have long forgotten about this procedure.
I usually open my Hayward filter and remove the grid assembly every year. By hosing from both sides, I get most of the old mud off the grids fins. In between, I just back-wash to get the pressure drop to
Yeah that's a pro manuever 👍🏼😉
@@PoolProAnswersDIY absolute pro maneuver;turn on the pump to pop it off with water pressure (after removing band)
Pop
Yikes! So if I can’t get the lid off I can just turn on the pump, and wait for it to pop off. Is this true? I’m losing my strength and have had trouble loosening the top of the cannister. Can someone kindly elaborate.
@@loreall.2461 You can see how it's done (actually two different, but similar ways) on this video:
czcams.com/video/XWIltRenwC8/video.html
I cleaned mine like you did, many times. One time for grins I took the gills out of the “cleaned one”. lol try that just one time. Regardless of running pressure, now I pull them apart after every second BW so the filter is actually working.
That's the way 👌 nice job🙌🏼
I do it half way through the season then again when i close it... it really needs it done after running for half the season...it gets nasty especially with the pollen early in the season...that's even with using a skum sock (highly recommend them) during the first few weeks after opening...
Sounds like you have a nice routine going. Great job!
There's of good hacks here especially the one with the super glue and baking soda. I knew it was strong and I use it for many different repairs but I don't know about a helicopter blade...hmmmmm. I ALWAYS take all the grids or cartridges out and apart as it's the ONLY way to get them completely clean AND to look for old/damaged grids. My way serves the customer better and there is a potential to replace old or bad grids.
Yeah you are correct, when doing a teardown completely disassembly is best...that is our standard operating procedure as well. But you might have missed the intent of the video and who it's aimed at.
Thanks for the feedback though, always appreciated.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY Ya know you're spot on! I wasn't looking at your vid from a consumer POV and if your DIY customer is gonna try it then YOUR WAY is the best...and after he puts it back together and it's worse and spitting back into the pool THEN you go back and do it OUR way. Good vid though.
First off I can't believe you got the top tank to seat as stretched as it was although I've never tried the cold water trick. I always carry extra tank o-rings on my truck anyway, i'ts easier and it's a sale.
Yes, we carry extra parts as well, but try not to cost our customers extra money if we can avoid it, its a smart business decision for us in the long run. On this channel I try to show homeowner different resources to DIY this stuff rather than showing professional practices. I hope you are able to use the cold water trick someday ;o)
Get yourself a high pressure wand hose attachment to get inside the crevices
If you're speaking of a pressure washer, those typically aren't recommended as the focused PSI will degrade the filter fabric prematurly.
I have always done this, but I do it into a plastic bin, let it settle then pour clear water back via filter. Then I pour the remainder through an old piece of cloth in the corner of garden, when dry put it in rubbish. This method only uses a fraction of the water to clean and is 10 times cleaner..
Yeah those are the things that a homeowner can do that us field techs cant really do. good on ya!
Hayward states in manual that backwashing shortens the grids lifespan when using backwashing method! What gets me is for sometime the selling of silicone lube craze for everything from o-rings & what not! But what i have noticed, seen & found on the field that silicone in hot- warm weather is effective to a point! But silicone used in cold temps is a no no, for silicone hardens when it gets cold & breaks down or apart materials such as o-ings, rubber, plastic causing problems! Ever inspect a o-ring & it feels pitted & hard like on one side?
I don't know that I would call that a "craze"...dry o-rings crack, pit, and split. If the lube is truly silicon it won't break down the o-ring as the o-ring is petrol based. A petrol-based lube will break down an o-ring however. As far as hardening...we don't ever experience that here in our area of California, that may be an issue in freezing temps, or if the O-ring hasn't been serviced for far too long. Thats been my experience, but yours may be different
Why didn’t you clean out the bottom of the filter?
Thanks for the video. You made my life so much easier lol. Those it matter which way the bracket clamp is facing? I noticed I have mine opposite from the video
No problem 👍 The belly band can face whichever direction is most accessible. I tend to make mine in the same direction because I am left-handed.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY I’m also left handed.
@@miguelsotelo7149 we're in our "Right" minds 🤙🏼
Hey there do you do video Skypes possibly or FaceTimes for diagnostics?
I can't find any info on what to do with the dirty DE. I can't pump it out to street or sewer - there is no backwash or out to waste valve. I can only take filters out and spray them off. But it makes a mess. I did it on the lawn, which remained stained with DE for weeks. I want to do it in the garden but can't find info regarding if it hurts the garden. I know the difference between food-grade and pool-grade DE. I'm not wanting to put it in the garden to help the garden, just to get rid of the DE. But I need to know if it hurts the garden soil short or long term.
We are so tire of doing the filter cleaning 2-3 times a year. Wondered if it's worth it to replace the DE filter to a sand filter for less maintenance?
Of your gonna do it , do it right , always carry spare parts. Replace the manifold , take grids fully apart, been doing this for 23 years and that my friend is the lazy way.
Thanks brother.
If you rewatch the video and others you'll note this channel isn't directed at pool professionals, it's for diy homeowners. Most homeowners don't carry spare parts and often need to get a job done in a pinch.
I've been at this for 15+ years with multiple trucks and continue to run a successful business. I can assure you there's a job taking place off camera that you don't see, but thanks for your input.
Thanks
You bet. Come back for more!!
So how do you determine the correct size of a DE filter for your pool? How often do you have to backwash?
I do this to my 48sq ft D.E. filter twice a year. it is a 2 hour process each time I do it. I hate it, but it is a necessary evil. I'd rather have a colonoscopy than do this.
Yes, your "necessary evil" systematic approach is, I think, the best way. I clean a filter when the pressure rises 10 psi over the starting pressure, which will vary on each system. Pools are like kids, each one has a unique personality! Come to believe that after taking care of thousands of those "kids". I've cleaned thousands of DE filters over the years, but I charge enough to make a business out of it!
Twice a year is probably bare minimum for most pools 👍🏼
Keep up the good work!!
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough.
On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off
water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
2 hours? Are you pulling all the grids out or doing it like in video? I do it like in video and it takes me about 30 min. I started doing this instead of backwashing because I never know how much DE comes out with each back wash and I was concerned I wasn’t adding enough back in, or that I would eventually put too much in and then have it blow back into Pool.
I have a 1 year old DE filter I cleaned it the first time and the pressure went back down to 12 which they said it should be. it rose again in a few months to 22-25. I cleaned it again and the pressure is at 18 consistent. I cannot get it back down. All baskets are clean. any recommendations. FYI some of the people on here are aholes with their comments. thank for the help
You can do an acid wash on the elements. If there is grease, or oil such as a sunscreen residue, you can use a degreaser such as tsp to degrease the elements first, then do an acid wash. A plastic garbage can filled with water half to three quarts full of water first, and then pour acid in. One pool site recommends a 20- to-. 1 water vs. acid (muriatic). Let the filter elements soak with your solution in the plastic garbage pail maybe 10-15 minutes, and then hose off again. You should see a big improvement in your filter cleaning cycle time. Very important to use soda ash to dilute the acid solution, after you are through cleaning your filter elements.
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough.
On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off
water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
@@chuckredd9131 A guy I know has made these for years, he calls it a "shewanda", and they work great, as I imagine yours does, as well, extremely effective at thoroughly cleaning the elements.
Thank you. Very helpful@@carlc5748
I do the same thing, but the DE is still there on the bottom. I was wondering if you can backwash and then do what you did to get it cleaner? I replaced my o-rings for my backwash stem but still haven’t used it because it is so easy to just take it apart. Good video though.
Absolutely!
The more old debris you can remove the better. In regular practice on the company side we backwash only most of the time and then do a complete teardown once a year where we completely disassemble the grids, manifolds, ect...tearing down the grids is the best way to ensure a complete job, but many have difficulty putting them back together. We'll post another video showing that teardown process too.
Thanks for watching 👍
Good video.
Can you do a video explaining what to check when you are getting dirt returning to your pool? Is it the manifold cracked, the o-ring on the riser tube is allowing blow by or a bad grid? When I open my DE I have a bunch of DE on top of my screen, and only part of the grids are covered with DE. Would very much appreciate your help, thanks.
I bought a Pentair DE filter and it arrived with a defective busted manifold which was only discovered hours into an expensive repair by a pool technician.
Yes, I'll work on a video about that. That sounds like a great topic
@alanthomas561, did you figure this issue out? I have a similar problem. Lots of comments about a bad push pull valve came up. Also thinking my o-ring on the manifold is flattened out. Thanks.
Never mentioned backwashing and why not to do it
It doesn't get the filters clean enough.
@@AidanSkoyles Yeah only for so many backwashes before a grid tears from stress or spider gasket deteriorates....
how much DE to put after cleaning that filter?
Buy a DE scoop, 5 for a 48 6 for a 60
Don't add a full amount after backwashing; there's plenty left behind as back washing isn't the most thorough way to clean a de filter. That'd be fully disassembling the unit and hosing off the grid assembly or soaking the grid assembly in a cleaning fluid made for this purpose. I add 1 scoop or pound less then you'd add to a new filter.
I have a new pool and it seems as the filter needs cleaned. So my intent is to wash as you did in this video. I just don't know how to add de media.
I actually have a video for that....it's just not edited just yet.
Measure out your DE, I usually do no more than 3 pounds at a time. Mix into a bucket of water and add the mix to the skimmer with the pump turned on.
The amount of De will be on the label of your filter
So I add 4.5 scoops after each backwash, if I clean this way, I’m assuming I’ll need to add more
Yes. A complete teardown that removes all of the DE will require adding 100% of the DE back.
A backwash will usually require a lesser percentage to recharge it.
Why go against manufacturer's recommendations they built the product
Just be thorough with your back wash sometimes repeating the process a few times until you see nothing but clear water before adding new de.
So, are the pool equipment Mfrs stupid that they give you the backwash position on the valve ??
not at all. backwash valves are still the best way to clear the DE and sand filter, but occasionally a grid teardown is needed. This video was mainly to offer a quick and dirty option to a complete teardown.
Backwashing is not a complete cleaning of the filter grids. That's why when you're done and go to add new de you never add a "full charge" because plenty gets left behind when backwashing. I do one full cleaning by removing the grids at the end of our season. Here on Long Island that's about 5 months if you have a heater. Locations where you can use your pool yard round I'd probablly do a full cleaning 2 or 3 times a year. It also depends on how much use the pool gets as well.
How to make all pop up cleaning system work
great question! I'll add that one to our list of videos
@@PoolProAnswersDIY
Thanks
New to having a pool.... any tips?
That could be a long answer. Checkout this post, it may help.
poolproanswers.com/3-weekly-maintenance-items/
How do you replace fingers or long tubes in my DE filter
If you're talking about the parts inside the fabric. You need to replace that entire grid. Those ribs support the fabric, which holds onto the filter media. There are no replacement parts made other than the entire grid.
One thing that can cause the cracks in that manifold is taking out all the grids at one time. It's plastic and can only withstand so much weight on those grids...
The manifolds with molded handled are actually designed to be removed all together as one unit. The cracks are generally from chemical exposure over time which causes the plastic to become brittle. This process is sped up with bad water chemistry. But you definitely don't want to be overly rough on the top or bottom manifold.
manifolds crack when filters aren't being backwashed enough and properly
How many times have you fallen in you were on the edge there ?
Lol...yes I am very comfortable on ledges and around pools. I'm happy to say I haven't fallen in by accident (yet).
I've had a few times where I thought for sure I was going in tho 😅
Hello I'm having problems with my filter and cartridges I've taken them out rinsed them put back at least two times the vacuum would work for a hour then stop also the pressure is up to 35 I take it apart and the filters are dirty as before within a day any help or recommendations is appreciated
Replace the elements at that point. They can appear to be clean but the pores on the elements are still clogged, thus the pressure rises quickly.
Most multi cartridge units will need new cartridges every 4 to 5 years, can be longer in some cases.
If you're in that window, it's time to replace
@@PoolProAnswersDIY I concur!
I made up a cleaner from 1/2"CPVC (tan colored) plastic pipe. It is 36" long, you can make it any length for your filter. I cap one end and drill a1/16" or 5/64" holes, 6 is enough.
On the other end I have a garden hose adapter glued on and use a shut off valve, then the garden hose. This way you can stick the pipe cleaner down between all the grids, shut off
water so you don't get wet & go on to the next grid. It does an excellent job of cleaning. All parts can be purchased at either HD or Loz
Whats the drill socket name for the drill ?? Im currently using a hand wrench lol
It's a Ryobi impact drill gun with a 3/8 drive socket adapter and then whatever size socket you need.
I usually use deep sockets, typical sizes are either 9/16, 3/4, or 7/8" depending on the make model or year of the filter.
Have you noticed when those de cartridges get about 10 years old you have to replace because the pump won't stay full primed long even after washing them and they start to trap water. I believe that's when they need replacement or you have to do constant backwash?
10 years is a pretty good run on grids. These grids can be replaced in entirety or per piece. I usually recommend replacing per grid as needed for efficiency and cost savings.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY the grids that have trapped water inside are the ones to be replaced? I don't see any difference in any of the grids regarding damage so I assuming replace the grids with water inside?
@@kevinfahey7618 a lot of time water is trapped from doing a backwash cycle. That's not necessarily indicative of a failed grid. Look for torn fabric and cracked ribs. If the structure has failed you'll lose filtration efficiency.
Thanks for the tip. In hindsight, back washing a de filter is a very messy process, plumbing the used de and debris creates mess that needs to be swept up. I plumb it to my lawn and picking the mess up from a lawn is a bitch. Employing your method will allow me to rinse out the de and have it land on concrete which will be much easier to sweep up . Im going to try and see how it goes..
I have a question relating vacuuming. I have a purex triton smbw 2060 DE filter. It has a rotary valve with filter setting and backwash setting. Is there a way to vacuum to waste? Can i vacuum with the valve in the backwash position? Can i run if without the grids?
Thx
Yes, I have done that, quite cumbersome, but it will work. That type of filter is by far the preferred filter used by pool servicemen in southern California.
@@carlc5748 so cal is where i stay at, and yes, de filters are common here in LA, they do a great job and keep water crystal clear. Backwashing and cleaning the grids are a big PIA! I fucked up by not maintaining my pool and let it go to shit, i had to clean grids and recharge DE about 10 times before getting it to clear! Lessons learned!
My neighbor changed to cartridge style and he deeply regrets switching as he feels he doesn't get the clear water he use to get with DE filter!
@@dannydee9919 You got educated in pool school of hard knocks, never forget the lesson that you learned! I am a diehard DE man, because DE filtering down to 5 microns, will trump a cartridge filtering down to 15-20 microns. I use the DE substitute Aquaperl. Measure the same as DE, but weighs half as much, comes in a 12+lb bag, as opposed to a 25lb. DE bag. In cleaning out a filter, it seems to go away quicker into the ground, as well. Hasa owns the company. I have been using it in lieu of DE for more than 15 years. A lot of pool guys are not aware of this product.
@Danny, what @Carl said ^^^^
Good call on the Aquaperl, thats probably one of the better DE replacements.
I’ve been doing this weekly my self and pressure is sti high
How Hi is high?
@@PoolProAnswersDIY Hi, how are you?
Like this how the guy said I cleaned my mind twice this week Since I open the pool less than one week and the gauge still sits at 20 and higher
What ? u need take them a part and chemical clean the grids there is oil on the grids that's why pressure keep going up
Can you use these with salt water pools?
Salt water pools are just chlorine pools that use salt to make the chlorine. Only true salt water pools are aquariums.
But yes DE filters are approved for salt chlorine generator pools
Thank you, someone finally said it 🙂@@PoolProAnswersDIY
What size socket ? Did you use to take of the ring ?
Should be a 7/8 Socket
if you have the same filter as the video it will be 7/8" like what Ed commented. The other common sizes you might encounter depending on manufacturer; 9/16", 3/4", & 13/16"
Hose off the grids once a month and replace oring once a year too. That oring wears thin fast lets de back to pool that you can't see. Pool will cloud.
Once a month might be a bit much since the DE cake filters to a lower micron over time, but it's definitely good to have a solid maintenance program
@@PoolProAnswersDIY once a month is nuts; aint no one got time for that.
@@AidanSkoyles I'm not the one recommending once a month. If your filter is properly sized and your pool properly cared for you can generally go once a quarter and be just fine
I didn't see you checking on the grids looks like the water is cloudy because the D E is going back to the pool I didn't see you fixing anything the top maniofold is broken definitely need a new one very bad job.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY if you don't check on the grid what's the point maniofold was broken nothing was fix the dust is going to keep going back to the pool . 🧐
@@israelflores1375 The grids were checked, but THAT was not the point of this video...see comment above...and the manifold was not cracked. go back and rewatch the segment you are referencing, the manifold had stress cracks in the plastic indicating that it HAS NOT yet failed, but soon would. The manifold was completely in tact and safe to reinstall. If it failed, we would see DE blowby right away. I apologize, but you seem to have missed the point of the video.
@port nut very true statement. Trust and honesty are what to look for. And a CPO (certified pool operator) doesn't hurt either☺️
Teachers pool basics I don’t know shit about pools and I just bought a house with a pool I would like to get rid of my pool guy at some point so I can save some money
... That's what I'm here for
@@PoolProAnswersDIY just a few concerns about DE will it cause harm to the ocean I’m close to the beach and my pool guy dumped the backwash line into the middle of the street so it’s white powdery dust all over black pavement? I was thinking to hose it down tonight into the gutter but it’s already all the way down the blocks gutters and my neighbors are pissed I’m sure. It that crazy toxic or hazardous to the sewers. Since it runs off into the ocean I’m worried my one neighbor will report it to the city!
@@iiiheartt333 in some cities you can get a ticket for backwashing
Into the street, de is just a natural media but its full of chems from your pool. If its an issue consider getting a cartridge filter.
@@iiiheartt333 @Andres Gutierrez is right, it depends on the municipality. Your pool service should know, although many times the service guys aren't always up on the regulations.
You may be able to install a separation tank that holds the DE when you do a backwash. In the municipality where we work these are required for commercial pools, but are generally a good idea.
Beware too much water pressure can damage your grids. He was using way to high of pressure and concentrated spray.
This wasnt a pressure washer. But I'm open to other opinions.
What's your proof? I'd like to look into this claim.
@@PoolProAnswersDIY that is bogus remark dont listen.
I damaged my grids the first time I sprayed them off. They are more fragile than you think, especially if they are the originals. I use a fine, wider spray without too much pressure.
DE filters are a pain in the ass.
Haha...I tend to agree, but they do produce the best result in terms of water clarity, so it's a trade off
@@PoolProAnswersDIY I had a DE filter. I power washed it, backwashed it, added DE, and I still could never get it to work better. The water flow through that thing was terrible.
👍👍👍
Pentair Filter tank lid is easily CRACKED, starting with tiny line…………I wouldn’t tap with Mallet.
That's an interesting comment. I'm sure if there is an older filter or one with manufacturing flaws your comment could be true. Unfortunately, it's directly opposite to the instructions found in the manufacturer's instruction manual (easily found online) and this is also common industry practice.