Turn Your DRILL PRESS Into A MILLING MACHINE | Cheap & Easy | WEN Cross Slide Vise Review
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- #drillpress #millingmachine #machining
If you create with wood and plastic then at some point you will consider purchasing a Milling machine. However, if you already have a drill press then you can convert your drill press into a milling machine with a cross slide vise. It’s very cheap and easy to do and I’ll explain how plus show you that it’s possible and very easy. By purchasing a cross slide vise and some end mills you can start milling plastic and wood to make creative gifts for the holidays. Follow along until the very end because there is lots of good information in this video. WEN did not pay me to make this video.
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Chapters:
Milling Intro: 14:21
Milling Plastic: 15:38
Milling Wood: 21:04
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Hey everyone! Have you ever wanted a Milling Machine, but didn't have the space for it or thought it was too expensive? Tell me what you think of this cool idea to add a cross slide vise to a drill press to create a cheap yet effective milling machine. 🔧👨🔧🦾
exactly what you explained forces on drill press are meaned to go straight down for some soft materials it is ok and if you take it slowly you should be ok
I said what I think, but you can't handle criticism.
It does work. I converted a 16 speed drill press to a small mill forty years ago and it still works. If you can change out the Jacobs chuck with taper holders the better.. If you are looking for away to do some small milling this will work well. The one thing to pay attention to is the spindle bearing. They are not designed for milling force and so will wear. Still it all cheaper than a milling machine and better than one of those pint size toy ones.
@@user-ho4nw5sf3w If by "it works" you mean it rapidly destroys bearings even doing light work...yeah. Not to mention the chuck flying off the taper. Use the machine how it was meant to be used, it's not a hard concept.
Good review - thanks for the instructions
I've run into 2 problems when doing light milling using a drill press. Drill chucks have a LOT of runout and cannot hold a milling cutter on center- typical runout is more than .003" which is enough to break a small diameter carbide cutter (high quality but brittle). If it doesn't break it you will still get a rough finish compared to a milling machine. I've used Jacobs, Rohm and Albrecht chucks- runout is from the chuck itself, its mounting arbor, AND the spindle bearing slop that is normally not a problem when drilling. The other big source is the poor fit of the spindle housing (quill) to the headstock casting, which you can see by taking off the drive belt tension and extending the quill. You can easily shake the quill and spindle from side to side. Modern drill presses are made to be cheap and they usually have a lot looser quill to headstock fit. A milling machine has the fit lapped in to remove as much play as possible. The other big thing to watch for is that the drill chuck is mounted onto the spindle with a taper ground into the body of the chuck, which seats onto a matching taper on the arbor that sockets into the spindle -on a cheap drill press sometimes the chuck mounts to a matching taper ground directly onto the spindle. This is fine when drilling as the force on this mount is axial and will actually tighten the fit as force is applied. Milling has a lot of side force and a less than well made drill chuck and arbor will loosen while milling and actually fall out of the spindle.
I agree you can do LIGHT milling on a drill press but only with very LIGHT cuts and only if you can be satisfied with the surface finish you will get. If milling any kind of metal use the correct cutting fluid. Use HSS milling cutters- solid carbide will probably break if small. Try to not use cutters less than 1/4" as the runout becomes a bigger issue as the cutter gets smaller, and spindle speeds increase to minimize stress due to chip loading (that's why Dremels run so fast).
Surface finish depends on minimizing runout and maximizing rigidity on your setup. Otherwise your cut quality will look like a rat was chewing on it.
Normally, I need a bench top drill press for wood jigs and fixtures: ( I build guitars). I am building some fixtures out of aluminum plate and need an appropriate drill press and cross slide vice. Any recommendations?
You can add rigidity, resonance and vibration as problems you will encounter when you start to cut hard materials. This can also lead to the cutting tool biting into the material, so no hand holding anything, especially when cutting hard materials, clamp down securely.
youre limited to small cuts like .005 at a time. if you need alot of milling done maybe youll need better bearings or a small mill.
My compliments on a really good presentation! I wish I had somebody like you in shop when I was younger. Instead I had a coach that didn't have a clue.
It’s worth noting that side milling in a drill press can and will make the chuck fall out, which can be pretty dangerous. Milling machines have a drawbar that retains the chuck so that this can’t happen. Looks like it’s fine for really soft material but I wouldn’t want to push it any more.
There’s no way to use any drill press with a Morse taper to mill with. The only drill that will work is the cheap ones with fixed Chuck and they are too small to do accurate cutting. Better is if you can find an older Sears Craftsman model 150. They are heavy duty with no taper chucks. Also you need a good heavy duty well made cross slide table preferably an all steel older US made one.
@@timvala7577I don't know which Morse taper drills you're using that would come off butt every one that I've seen is retained with a bolt as well. As far as US made "mill" tables being the best that simply is not true. Most German, Swiss or Japanese mill tables are of much better quality and accuracy. This also holds true for drill press vises. US made doesn't automatically mean a product is of high quality or available.
@@matthewmoilanen787 Oh I’m referring to equipment made before 1970 in the US. However I was under the assumption the Sears earlier drill press had a fixed chuck but they have a Jacob taper. They are somewhat more difficult to remove. I’m in the process of removing one and will machine the end to attach a straight shank holder with a set screw. I’m sure there are good milling tables from other countries especially Germany but none from China. The only Morse taper with a draw bar I know of is the one I have on my Atlas lathe. No drill press I know of has one.
Now I must have one of these. Thanks for having me spend more money---on top of buying a drill press soon.
what about using those *cheap door locking magnets on the vice? yiu wouldneed to get a transformer that works with the drill press own power too. anyways good idea, ill be looking for one.
Very good explanation. 👍
The main idea is to know the limitations of what you are using and what you are doing. Without improvisation, we never would have had MacGyver (the guy that could fashion a rocket launcher from a ballpoint pen). Since the chuck spindle of a drill press is typically a press fit that extends a matter of at least a couple of inches or so, the side pressure applied to the bit while performing a milling job will loosen the chuck spindle connection if you do it often enough because you are wiggling the chuck spindle from the drill press head. If the chuck spindle should detach while using it during milling, your bad new will be dependent on what you were doing at the time such as what you were milling- I suspect in all cases you would damage the workpiece to some degree; you may cause personal injury to yourself or others nearby because when the chuck spindle drops (it may give you advanced notice by wobbling if you are paying attention) it will fall on your workpiece and continue to rotate somewhat which could compromise the bit’s integrity and it may break and throw debris. You can imagine a worst case scenario would be fast drill speed with much force applied to the side movement of the bit. To help compensate for drill chuck spindle loosening, you could periodically rap the chock spindle upwards into the drill press head. One could also periodically mill/drill into a hard material using vertical force to ensure the spindle does not immediately drop. This CZcamsr does advise to only use the drill press while milling on soft materials such as wood and plastic and not on metal where the side pressure applied is greater and more likely to cause issues. Please be careful and wear personal protection including eyewear (face-shield would be better), gloves, and carry a first aid kit.
Not sure what you mean by wrapping the chuck, what does that mean? Could I tighten the chuck by just hitting it with a hammer too?
@@Neverfixxed Hello- I wrote, “. . . you could periodically rap the chock spindle upwards into the drill press head.” The chuck spindle is only held in place because it is a press fit, that is, it is shaped as a cone (like a wedge) and is forced upwards until it stays in place. It is not screwed in place or held in place by any fasteners. It typically stays in place without issues because its design purpose only applies upward force which tends to only keep it is place. But when you use the drill press as a milling machine, you are now not applying upward force but lateral force and this sidewards force may loosen the chuck spindle enough that it drops out and falls on your project or elsewhere causing damage or personal injury. I have a full size standup drill press and I intend to use it for milling plastics. I will periodically rap or tap the chuck upwards to ensure the chuck does not drop out. My projects are seldom and of short duration of a few minutes so I am not overly concerned about such a problem but others who may be doing such often must be very careful. Regards. . .
@@danielvalletta417 ok thanks is there any way i could make this mill small amounts of metal?
@@Neverfixxed Hello- You could mill metal of any amount but depending on how hard the metal and therefore the amount of lateral force applied, will determine how frequently you must apply the upward force on the chuckle spindle to make sure it does not become loose. Imagine a bottle with a cork in it upside down and you keep rotating the bottle while applying lateral force on the cork at different times while the bottle continues to rotate. The cork may wiggle out over time as may the chuck spindle. If you periodically push the cork (or the chuck spindle) upwards, frequently enough, it will not drop out. How frequently is the issue and that will depend on many factors. In my case with my brief plastic project, which I have never done before, I could probably do dozens of them, if not hundreds, without the chuck spindle loosening becoming an issue without ever pushing the chuck spindle upwards at all. And if I would periodically use the drill press as a drill press between times of using the drill press as a milling machine, the drilling periods would serve as the upwards force needed to help keep the chuck spindle in place.
@@danielvalletta417 sounds good thanks
Thank you
You're welcome!
If your drill press does not have a draw bar, this will get you hurt. Side pressure on a morse taper will knock it loose. That makes the taper adapter/chuck/cutter an immense projectile. this can be used to align parts for drilling holes but I would never recommend milling on any drill press that does not use a draw bar to hold the adater in the quill shaft.
So ur saying once you receive your new Wen Cross-vice, users need to take it apart, smooth all the faces and beds before reassembling it... that sounds like an over-priced, roughly-fashioned kit. The movement on yours looks pretty smooth, but I gotta tell you, I'm tired of buying tools just to immediately re-engineer/fabricate them. 🤑🤐
I discovered your site by accident, very happy with your content, so I subscribed. Thank you.
Algorithm help: for another modification to this cross slide vise, you could add a digital readout (DRO) using cheap digital calipers or an inexpensive 3-axis linear scale DRO for milling machines. Glass and 3M lapping film is a better way to smooth those slide ways vs sandpaper. Very flat, very smooth. The collet & bearings on drill presses can be replaced with much better parts: run-out is usually terrible on drill presses.
Hi Giblet535! Thank you so much for the help. That algorithm is rough haha! Thanks for the advice. I actually thought about that and will definitely start on the modifications 😁 Never knew about combining glass with lapping film. I've heard of polishing stones, but I'll have to give that a try. Very true, the run-out can be all over the place. Thankfully this one wasn't too bad. I like the upgrade ideas. I'll have to give them a try. Thanks again for the advice! 🙏
Why are you wearing gloves?
Why did michael jackson wear a glove?
Sorry but this whole setup is unsafe and inefficient and will either get people to hurt themselves or their work piece or their equipment. Just because some creator on CZcams does it, doesn't mean it's a good idea.
Great thanks! 👍
@@GarageDynamics 🙄
@@GarageDynamicsthat is just poor comment managment, weird auto response
Shut up
Unsafe and inefficient? What are you yapping about? I personally use this for almost 3 years. It's still working great. I use it to mill metal and stainless steel.
If you were to say, have two Presses and dedicate one of them to Milling, couldnt you just weld the Chuck to the Press's Spindle to increase rigidity? Yeah, you wouldnt be able to use any other Chuck on that Press, but it essentially make it safer to use as a Mill for metals.
It would be difficult to weld the high carbon chuck and spindle without warping everything. There are some old delta drill presses with interchangeable spindles, one of which having an endmill holder.